ANCs = and I also have
duhhhhh
Oxidation on surface of cable under clear jacket
Wondered if anyone has had this problem. I have a pair of “Oval” cables I was going to reintroduce into my system. They’re 15 years old. I noticed that green oxidation had formed over a length of the cable under the clear jacket. Since there is shrink tubing over the spade connector, so I can’t tell if the oxidation has reached the connector. Problem is the manufacturer’s warranty was over many years ago. They weren’t inexpensive. Seems others have had the same issue. I guess I’ll give them a call to see what can be done, but I’m not optimistic. I do have another manufacturer’s cables I can use if this can’t be remedied.. Your thoughts?
Inagroove Good advice. The 12TCs I have areindividually insulated single strands. I’ll give them a close exam before I connect them. And they’re about 3 yrs old I’m out of town for about another month. And then another listen. I was also looking/not ready to buy, Straight Wire and the other recommendations. But not till I reevaluate the 12TCs BTW. Now I’m also wondering what shape my Oval interconnects are r in? They don’t have a clear outer sheath. I’ll give them a look when I get back ANC’s Kimber Hero interconnects Lastly, if this is a problem with many cables (affordable and expensive), do we go into this knowing that down the road it’s not a long term investment? I’m looking for my 10 Ga. Zip cord. LoL | |
Hi Deanrk, When I started building my first Hi-Fi system, decades ago, I built my own speaker cables. They had clear shielding, and eventually noticed the same oxidation problem that you experienced. So, I started searching for a replacement... I agree with the first half of williewonka's comments, but not the second half. You see, I replaced my DIY cables with Audio Envy cables then realized I had made a mistake. After a break-in period (over 100 hours), the Audio Envy cables were noticeably unbalanced sounding (thin, harsh treble, average mid-range, anemic bass). When I called the owner of Audio Envy to relay my concern, I was told that the 'brand new' cables that I bought a few weeks ago had already been replaced. Apparently, he was cleaning-out his stock of OLD cables, which he sold to me. I asked to upgrade these old cables, for the new ones, but he refused to give me credit for the ones that I just purchased! I turned to Anti-cables (Level 3), which were just a little more money at that time, and I really like Anti-cables as an entry-level solution. Much, much better balance, coherence, and all-around more 'believable'. Please know that, other than making full-retail purchases, I have no affiliation with Anti-Cables. Furthermore, the Anti-cables website states:
Products may be returned for a full refund up to 30 days after taking delivery. The ZEROs are a full 60 days.
I had one customer-service issue (and exchange) with Anti-Cables and it was promptly addressed. I recently upgraded my speakers, and the Anti-Cables are performing great. Though inexpensive, I believe that they are NOT a limiting Q factor in my system. I hope this helps, InAGroove | |
Winoguy17 yup Mine are worse than that, but that’s it! And I think as your picture shows, the clear sheathing may be pulled over the copper conductor which allow air infiltration and oxidation to take place. But when I set up my system in our new house (another post for another time!), I’ll give the Oval 9s and the Kimber 12 TCs a listen to see which I prefer. | |
I have 30+ year old cheap 10 and 12 awg speaker cables lying around, clear insulation, not a hint of oxidation, and I had some cheap 18 awg that was maybe 10 years old that looked like it was outside from day 1. My understanding is the material and quality of the insulation determines how much oxygen gets in, which seems pretty obvious, but also good OFC should oxidize slower. Quick Google says the oxide probably 10's of nanometers thick. I don't see that making a big difference to the conductivity. I would be more worried about the connectors. If they are soldered they will be fine. If they are a good quality crimp they should be okay too. Anything else could be trouble. | |
61falcon. I lived in northern VA. Summer humidity could get high, but home was air conditioned, so I doubt high humidity had anything to do with it. Felixa I will put them back into my system and give a listen. AND I have a pair of Kimber Kable 12 TC (much newer) that I will compare them to, to see which I prefer. | |
Your cables will still work, they simply will be brighter than what they used to be because the oxidation is a bad conductor and will shift the tonal response towards a litz wire configuration with is brighter than the equivalent configuration where there is electrical contact between the strand. Try them to see if you like the tonal response or maybe have them be recycled. | |
No, I live in normal conditions. This problem with greenery is not unique. The manufacturer knows about it, so he changed the transparent insulation of the wires to opaque in new models. The sound, as I know, is not reflected. The problem is precisely in loose insulation and poor protection from the environment. PVC insulation loses its tightness over time. | |
I've had this a long time ago and I just tossed them
Replace them with Audio Envy cables
If you want better cables then try Zavfino Regards - Steve | |
I have a really old pair of uninsulated Monster Cables with tinned, twisted wire ends and exhibit the same green corrosion you’re seeing. Honestly, I use them in my home theater now and they work perfectly fine. My advice would be that, if you liked how they sounded before, give them a shot and just go by how they sound. Is corrosion optimal? Of course not, but if they still sound good to you then just use them, enjoy them, and don’t worry about it. Just my $0.02 FWIW. | |