Mytek Dac going Ac to DC power.


Feed back on those who Gone DC to power the Audio component's. As there's a number of AC/DC

power converters on the market place. BUT! SOME REALLY DON'T MEET a true Audiophile sonic bench mark.

Look forward to those who  HAVE gone DC.

tubes444
I agree 100% with Erik above. I tried the "non-audiophile", affordable, built like a tank Astron, and it bettered 4 other "audiophile" power supplies I had tried, which were priced up to $995. Sounds is all that matters. Hide it on the floor behind your rack, and nobody will ever know...
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Hey @dweller - 

One rare feature in the Mytek Brooklyn is that it has a DC jack next to the normal IEC AC socket. In addition to the sound quality, it also seems to reduce the heat generated inside the unit. 

If you have an external power supply that can put out 12 V at 1 Amp, it will work. The Astron I am using has a maximum of 5 or 10 Amps. :) :) 

Best,

E
Hi all...this is a very timely thread.  I'm getting the DAC+ and would like to understand any small tweaks I can make that won't break the bank.

Which specific Astron model are you using with the Brooklyn DAC?

Does it come ready to "plug-n-play" or are there any settings to be changed on the PS or other parts needed?

Thanks!


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@dweller - Exactly. :) 

@jcoehler I got fancy, and wanted the variable voltage:

https://amzn.to/2uIPWRj

Truth is it has so much current I could run my Logitech Squeezebox AND my DAC from the same unit, but right now they are in different rooms. 

Best,

Erik
Erik, that PS looks pretty decent. Can it be used with any device that uses a wall wart as long as the power requirements are within its range? Also, how do you connect it to the device, e.g., cut and splice the existing line or else? Couldn’t find any detail descriptions.
Thanks.
Kalali - 

The power supply has banana plugs on the back. You need to make your own cable. I used these connectors for the DAC end:

https://amzn.to/2uyZTBD

You can use any regular banana jacks or bare wire for the power supply end. 

erik_squires

  This was my reason for starting this tread to DC power  FOR my new

Mytek Brooklyn.  DC 12v power is favored so long as it's super clean and

doesn't ad ripple waves or transformer hum if it's that type.

I.e Not switching AC TO DC.

I have read several reviews on PS from England recommended

by Mytek. Suggests  Mim 5 to 6 amps 250 to 400 watts of ready reserve

power. The Astron!  Isn't more for Ind or gaming applications, rather

than super quiet very low noise floor for extreme EARS?


@tubes444  - 

It's really a piece of test gear. 99% of buyers are probably electrical hobbyists, engineers and the like.

For the unit I recommend, the sustained maximum is 35 Amps at 15 V, way more than the Mytek needs. It is a super quiet and very stable linear regulator design.  I highly recommend it for those who like overkill. :) 

Best,

Erik 
The model I have been using is an Astron RS12A. Keep the 12V DC lead as short as possible. The type of wire used can make a very noticeable difference in tone, speed, clarity and extension in the highs. I have tried dozens of different types of wire, from stranded, solid core, copper, silver plated and pure silver. They all sound much different. I did not like the sound from the heavier gauge wires, or any solid core wire. Heavy gauge wire make things sound darker. 22 gauge stranded copper seemed to have very good balance. Experiment for yourself and your taste. The ultra-pure, expensive wires did not sound any better. Keep it simple. 
I'm using Monster cable's finely stranded 14 gauge speaker cable. If I can find them in my bag of goodies I'm going to try snap on ferrite cores. 

bigshutterbug

What highend $$ AC/DC brand names did you audition that didn't

meet your SONIC demands over the AstronS12a??

p.s. how many watts dose it putout.



The Astron RS12A sounds really interesting. I've been looking for an external power supply for the Brooklyn DAC+. I'm a bit naive here, but can someone explain how I would attach the Astron to the Brooklyn? Specifically, how do I go from the Astron to the circle 12V input on the Mytek?

bigshutterbug

Feeding the MYTEK Brooklyn Dac 12V DC  needs up to 3>to5 Amps

to get Max Dynamic/ transit attacks responses. "Their Tech guy said to me". 

Hmm!  22 gauge fine Ox free copper stranded may not do it.

bigshutterbug


      I know mention trying other high PS. But" I would really like to

know what brand" . Why! several makers will send you one to

audition. Your feed back will save me the effort on those brands

as with any VERY GOOD PS to 12V DC their noise floor and

their EMI/IM + very low ripple is what is important with a very good audio system, of course you already know.

The Astron RS12A puts out 10 amps. The Mytek draws a constant 1.5 amps. I never saw it peak out any higher than that when in use. It does not create any problems using 22 ga. wire, unless you are using a long run, which is not suggested. My wire is less than 2 feet. The DC wire is certainly a "tuning point" for me, and different types/gauges certainly change the tone. I urge you to experiment until you find one that gives you the best synergy in your system. 

Some of the audiophile power supplies I had tried were the HD Plex 100, the Keces, the Vinnie Rossi Mini Pure DC-4EVR (ultracapacitor powered), and a Teradak power supply. Some of them may look nicer and have better specs. than the Astron, but my ears tell me which sound better, and that is all I care about. The low price is a bonus too.


bigshutterbug

Golden spec high Audio gear doesn’t guarantee Golden Ear

performance. As I’ve found out over the year’s.

You have tried HDPLEX 100 which I was going audition. Only they coming out with highly upgrade sonically HDPLEX 200/200 watt output

$490 bucks first of August according to Larry their national Rep.

Thanks your insight on the Mytek Dac current draw. Very interesting

4 sure.

bigshutterbug

p.s. What sonic improvements did the Astron RS12A have over the

Mytek internal 12VPS that was most noticeable to your ear.

Bass, Mid, Highs, transits, Depth of sound stage etc.?

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tubes444:
As far as the benefits of the Astron over the internal power supply, I found it to be more dynamic/energetic, noticeably more "punch" in the bass and transient attack in the mids and highs, more extension to the upper highs (with the right DC wire). Soundstage also grew larger and had more micro details. It was a very positive improvement all around. 

Bigshutterbug

   Many thanks for your very in-depth report on your personal findings.

I.e. on the wire size= many+++'s. Audioquest 12V DC cable uses much larger wire gauge. Which now makes me think about how much research on wire size they REALLY did..

Is a crimp on banana plug adequate for making a suitable cord, or is soldering necessary??


That Astron unit looked interesting, but I couldn't accommodate the size in my cabinet.
I ordered an sOTM sPS-500 power supply, when it arrives and I've broken it in, will report back.
I have the "original" Brooklyn DAC and when I'm streaming thru it for an hour or so it gets really hot.  I hope the PS improves the sound quality and reduces the heat.
agreed on all the comments regarding the Astron power supplies.  they are very good - replaced a Hynes unit in my system.

@erik_squires Not sure if you're aware of this, but the voltage can be adjusted on other Astron LPSU's rather easily...
http://www.repeater-builder.com/astron/voltage-adjust/voltage-adjust.html
Certainly not as convenient as rotating a knob on the face, but fairly straightforward if you've got a screwdriver and voltmeter.

Is a crimp on banana plug adequate for making a suitable cord, or is soldering necessary??

pauken4 : Crimp on is fine. 

@srosenberg Figures. :) 
Has anyone tried going 13 volts on their external power supply to DAC+?  I read that this improves the sound greatly, so I tried it and it did. I switched back to 12v since I'm worried about toasting the unit. Anyone know if 13v is safe? I emailed Mytek and it's no surprise they said run 12v. Knowing all to well about liability, even if it can do 13v, they won't recommend it since that's not what is published in their manual. 

veerossi1

I started this tread last year. I tried several High end so called Audiophile grade against the Astron rs12A. Its been suppling

13-V DC for a year. I adjusted back to 12-V per Mytek specs’

Lost a little slam in the bass and some overall dynamics "some"

If 13v doesn’t fry it before its out of warranty so BE IT!!

If it dose I’ll just another and run it @ 13-V.

What high end supplies did you try, and did they all sound about the same as Astron.?

+1 on the Astron, picked up a used RS-12M on ebay for $71 incl. shipping for my Brooklyn + DAC.  I difference is very noticeable in both my main system on digital and in my small room vinyl system using the very good MC phono section in the Brooklyn +.  Stock voltage is 13.8, but I used internal adjustments to recalibrate the front panel meter and reduce the voltage to 13.  Clearer and more dynamic.  You can also look for model #RS-12A, same thing except no front panel meter.  The Astron website lists all their current models plus distributors if you prefer new.  Also just ordered a used LS-10A (28 volt) to replace my Dell laptop power supply, curious to see what improvement that makes to my digital system per recommendation on this forum.




I own an Original (Non +) Mytek Brooklyn as well as a Teradak 12V 10a linear PSU I used to use to power a mac mini stack.
While Mytek apparently recommend 6amps or so, would my 10a PSU be usable with the Brooklyn or is that just too many amps?
Hey @Madinuk2007

The DAC will only draw the current necessary, so in theory even a 100A supply would be OK so long as the voltage did not exceed ~ 14 V .

Best,

E

Astron +1. 
love this made in Irvine, CA little tank!


I bought an Astron RS-7A used but like new and retrofitted to enhance power delivery:

1) upgraded all wires to mil-spec silver plated 18/22 awg ( input / output use 18awg, voltage reference for LM chipset can be 18)

2) removed original filter cap (Nichicon 12000uF/25V), and replaced with 4 Rubycon 6800uF/80V in parallel. I ordered some NOS RIFA PEH169 10000uF but unfortunately they were way too big for RA-7A. 

3) ditched speaker post voltage output, changed to aviation connector GX16-2pin and make a DC12V cable with 5525 dc jack. 

4) adjusted to Dc12.0V output. 
 

all materials plus shipping is $60-ish. 

And I can obviously tell the sound difference versus AC 120V input into build in switching power - ouch!!! Gross!