I love them. I noticed an improvement with them right off the bat, starting first with just the two 6U8A's. I've since added them to my 7189 output tubes as well. I would tend to agree with Piedpiper's characterization of the improvements noticible by using these brass anchors.
07-28-07: Piedpiper said:
"IME, the sound should get less hashy,with cleaner, tighter bass, and more natural tranparancy and warmth. Bear in mind that some dampers, Mapleshade included, act as shields that you can ground which adds (or subtracts actually) another dimension."
----
I noticed a nicer definition, for one thing, I like that. Yes you need to be careful and patient when fitting them, since tubes vary one to the other in size, even two of the specification do not always fit the same or easily, I did need to send a couple of the anchors back to have them expanded slightly. You can tweek them further by painting the insides only, with flat matte black spray paint. I have not been disappointed with any of the Mapleshade products. Each time I try something from them I'm baffeled at how such a simple thing can make such a nice difference in the overall sound. |
IME, the sound should get less hashy,with cleaner, tighter bass, and more natural tranparancy and warmth. Bear in mind that some dampers, Mapleshade included, act as shields that you can ground which adds (or subtracts actually) another dimension. |
Has anyone tried MapleShade dampers -- or any other dampers -- on 6H30 tubes? I have an ARC Ref 3 and I'd like some indication of what to expect from anyone who has done the experiment of replacing the stock dampers with MapleShade, or other dampers. . . or removed dampers all together. |
Well, I'm surprised to say this, but (1) I have been using the Mapleshade tube dampers for over 6 months now, (2) I still haven't broken any of my tubes and (3) on balance I actually like the effect they have, though I find the effect to be similar to Andy Bouwman's (Vintage Tube Services) octal tube dampers, more so than Mapleshade might believe. I think that they do tend towards making the sound a little on the bright side (compared to undamped tubes), though I have found this to be the case with all tube dampers I have used; that is my main reservation about them outside of their logistics. I think that being made of brass they should in theory ring more than a lead or O-ring damper, but the sheer mass of these things offsets that, and I don't really like an over-damped sound that much anyway. I will point out that these things do get really hot to the touch, bear that in mind if you try them. |
Mapleshade is famous for pursuing sonics to the exclusion of logistics and, understandably, many users. I've never had a problem with them but it takes a certain kind of person to be willing to deal with them. |
I don't need to make them. I already own them. I just don't use them any more. Lord knows I gave them a good shot. |
Dopogue,
you can make your own brass tube anchors, if you want, for more than it'll cost you to buy them, but they're still better that O rings. I've compared them. I'm as interested in cheap elegant answers as much as the next guy but it doesn't always work that way. |
As you said, Piedpiper, you're a dealer. |
O rings are certainly a cheap fix, grounded lead sheet is better and also cheap, but the massive brass ones are in a different league. |
Somebody must have tried a Roman ring... |
The cheapest solution is the Silicon o-rings that you can get at McMaster. If you do some search on Tweak Asylum, you can find the information on the diameters for various tubes. Signal tube benefit the most from dampers. Several of my buddies have compared the McMaster o-rings and Hal-O dampers. The Hal-O damper has more air and details.
FrankC |
The O ring idea fascinates me. it should be easy to figure out the problem is yo need somethe between the ring and the tube. Also if you could get them to cut short sections of reasonably large rings that can be sealed off you can make resonance dampers for speakers . I think resonance is good, as long as it does yield a distorted sound. I tell yo what we can find a smelter oif led to fill them have plastic caps melted onto the ends add a layer of iso damp and cork then prl kitchen flooring and finally a cup of ball bearings and charge 300% more than the cost. |
Thanks, Bob. It's very kind of you. At this point at least, I don't typically get sales from Audiogon. Like most of us here, I contribute out of passion, which is also why I, and most dealers, got into this business. I simply share my pursuit of good sound with my customers as well. Not really that different. |
Piedpiper,you are correct about your experiences and thoughts on these products regardless of others and theirs.We all are equal in what we hear.I am guilty of assuming the worst as you say without having any investment in whats selling here.Its not my place to control your dealings or anybody else here.I sometimes get tired of unwanted pitches thru the media and elsewhere and was irrationally reacting when I should'nt have.I would bid you good luck in your ventures and be moving on,Bob |
Usblues,
I have no intention of hiding that I'm a dealer. I just feel my experience is just as valid and actually no more biased than anyone else here. I post here to share my experience and learn what I can. I call em like I see em and have plenty of folks who share my experience. I understand the assumption of guilt but bear in mind it is an assumption on your part. No harm meant and no harm taken. |
Thanks Audiofeil,for this tip and also on his other post which is biased and useless.Nobody needs a less than upfront dealer here,Bob |
Yes, as you know. I'm getting a bit sloppy about including the "requisite" disclaimer. IMHO, despite popular opinion, that fact doesn't necessarily make me any different than anyone else here. |
Piedpiper says:
>>I find the tube anchors to be the best I've tried<<
Aren't you a Mapleshade dealer? |
Like much of Mapleshade's products they are not for klutzes (read normal people). For those of us who are a bit more handy, I find the tube anchors to be the best I've tried and do make the sound better, lowering noise floor, removing congestion, tightening bass and revealing more tranparancy. Unlike most, they also act as grounded shields, if you choose to use the straps, contributing to the above. |
I guess I was lucky, I got the mapleshade on and later off with no ill effect... but it is kind of a kluge with the grounding strap etc
since then I have learned (through reading the commentary of my learned compatriots here and inmates at the asylum) that a touch of microphonics is actually what contributes to the illusion of "air". in other words, too much damping is maybe a bad thing.
i have also proved to my own satisfaction that the only way to fix a truly microphonic tube is to replace it with another one...
I have had good luck with Herbies - the tube dampers and lots of other stuff - mostly I can't hear a thing but I figure its all cumulative and indeed I am sometimes thrilled by the way my system sounds |
Tried 'em, broke a tube right off the bat, boxed 'em back up and returned 'em.
Have kept the Herbie's Hal-O's and highly recommend them. They seem to remove just a tad of grain or noise from the sound.
You mileage may vary, but I like them! |
Which reminds me, one of my get round to its was to order some high temp o-rings (tube dampers without the audiophile mark up) from McMaster-Carr. Anybody gone to the trouble to figure out what size o-ring to buy for the common tube types? |
I have read that metal dampers can actually cause tubes to retain too much heat. I've had good luck with Herbie's Hal-o dampers, which are cheap and not dangerous to your tubes' life expectancies (either temperature-wise or hardness-wise). |
Ease of use? You jest. I broke two Teles with these things. Maybe others can comment on their effectiveness. Mine are sitting in a drawer. But then I'm not real sure I'm hearing benefits from any tube dampers (and I've tried a bunch), so keep that in mind :-) Good luck, Dave |
