I'm pretty excited about my new room i'm building

Foam will only be better if it is denser, but foam if typically not ideal as it created a stronger mechanical connection which is what you don't want.

Another good idea is to have shelving on the wall behind the speakers and the wall behind the listening position. Or if not shelving, something else irregular.

I used that acid stain in a 24x24x17H building where I make wine. Results vary with what you want to achieve. Your going to want to seal it. I assume a moisture barrier is under the slab? Your basically etching the concrete with the acid. You can get some really cool results. I don't think you will be walking around in your bare feet. As far as insulation, have you priced foam, where it is sprayed into the walls? Acoustically I would think that would be better than fiberglass. 

I finished my purpose-built two channel room a year ago. You are at the perfect stage to optimize dimensions with shelving and storage.

1. I suggest looking up dimensions obtained by a big simulation, done properly, by the School of Acoustics at Salford University in the UK. Results and a paper in the professional literature are offered for download.

2. Stereophile had a feature article on a case study of a music room, early in 2019. Lot of good ideas there.

3.  My own experience with Quietrock 545 and elastomeric glues and caulking from Chemlink was very good. Q 545 is not cheap, but it's solid solid solid - more than an inch thick, two formulations of gypsum plus a layer of sheet steel. As for Chemlink, we used at least 10 cases of the stuff.

My results were excellent. The quality of silence in the room is remarkable - in fact, most visitors remark on it right away. When I want an intimate sound, I sit in the usual listening position. Big bass, in a corner.

Good luck!

oleschool OP

That will work. Big waisted space behind the chairs, you only need half that.
With that length you could do what I did though, move your listening chairs and speakers/subs back say 8ft.
And then have with a short wall (your father in law could make no problems) behind the speaker for your subs and mains.
And have something like my sunroom, maybe as a bar with small fridge behind one of the short walls, small table/chairs to do some modding/soledring or work on.etc.

Cheers George

Very cool. I'd love to pick your brain some day on your "off-grid" system. As far the room goes, I would borrow a good, single, active monitor, a measurement mic (Behringer is fine and cheap) and install and use REW to analyse the acoustics and see if they are any glaring issues or tweaks to be made while still in the construction phase. I'm certain there are a lot of people who could look at the REW results by just posting the file here and letting those with experience help.

Of course I'm assuming that you don't already do this?

Cheers,

Tom eh

maybe not I can't load a pic here

Sure you can it's easy once you've done your 1st one, just use this https://imgbb.com/ free image hosting like I do.
Up load your pic to it from your computer, and load it and you get a link to post here like I did with mine  https://ibb.co/LhGsmw6

Cheers George

georgehifi

The drywall is already up and insulated behind it 2x6 with redwood batten board (The building is rock solid ). The building is an existing building I have . I could remove the drywall behind the speakers and do this pretty easy I guess ?as for distance I will only know when I know but 3-5ft is doable any direction as my listening area will probably be 3/4 distance .I know it a touchy subject but im a fan of swarm subs I will add two more most likely I posted a very crude pic I scribbled from my mind additional subs wherever they work . As I stated before I will put pics on the walls ,I know this is a reflection point but at 53 yrs old, a lifetime musician and mechanic I want it more then the sonic difference lol

In addition to the insulation (don't pack it too much), you should consider double layer of drywall for added mass or acoustic drywall.  Are you trying to reduce sound getting out / in?
There are many impermeable underlays for carpets and floating floors that will prevent any moisture forming. They work very well and provide insulation as well if there is a cold floor.

the drywall is already up and insulated behind it 2x6 with redwood batten board . The building is an existing building I have . I could remove the drywall behind the speaker and do this pretty easy I guess ?as for distance I will only know when I know but 3-5ft is doable any direction as my listening are will probably be 3/4 distance .I know it a touchy subject but im a fan of swarm subs I will add two more most likely 

oleschool OP
any distance from rear wall is fine

Ray, you want "some" bass loading so 1-2mts from the back wall. And side walls no closer than 1mt.
This is what I did in my room,

you have a 24ft long room so this is possible,

I took out the centre wall between the speakers and left short walls behind the speakers, this still gave bass loading. The imaging is like you feel you can get up and walk into it and shake hands the the artists, and the depth of the image goes out into the backyard, I also get very good imaging outside the speakers.

Here is a crude drawing not to measurement/scale of the room.
https://ibb.co/LhGsmw6

oleschool OP Luckily my father in law is a drywaller

OK very important, 2 x compressed R4" thick batts (we call them pink batts) (Rock wool batts even better) in-between the dry wall every dry wall you have you should do ceiling to floor. (we call them gyprock panelling walls.) This will stop hollow wall drumming. This makes the walls sound like they are made of solid brick

Cheers George

Can't be as boring as another thread about fuses or cable risers.

milpai
I can update as I go but I am afraid of boring people with construction pics lol. But I will if everyone is interested its pretty beat up inside now . Luckily my father in law is a drywaller .I am going with all led of course for me but with a lot of recessed lighting and lighting for my framed music goodies I have collected for yrs . reflections or not I have waited too long to not have all my band art in one spot .I will sacrifice that im sure my beat up old ears won't mind but my brain will enjoy the art .the audio will be directly wired from panel to independent breakers for amps etc

rego

This is where my brain is headed for the floor.
https://directcolors.com/acid-stain/?product_code=DC-CAS&variant_id=23207&campaign=115124279...

The walls are 2x6 contruction already in and insulated and drywalled .The ceiling is also drywalled and insulated , with attic space is open above. It has redwood batten board siding .I was an outbuilding built on my ranch .I is very well constructed .

milpai
I have the grounding very well done, overdone I also run a some stuff now it works great .The power I generate is imo far superior to standard pole electric ..As for treatment those panels are only 12" wide the larger one is a bass trap . my speakers are like 2' from side wall and my ceiling is wood 1.5" thick .It gets a lot of slap echo and was just super bright .After I did this treatment the rooms sounds much larger actually .

georgehifi
curious ? my system will be on the 16' wall any distance from rear wall is fine.i am in a tighter space now so I have full range treatment because I am 2.5 feet from side wall .This room I can easily be 3-4ft and the same from rear .If I follow the not in center lead what about reflection issues if I place it on side wall? I can go no more then say 10'-12' up side wall .thats easily a 20' cable run .I am eventually switching to Vac monos in a yr or two and will upgrade my speakers this spring (yes I have some favorites ) but until I consider that as far as I want to run and pay for that length of cable . I know I know ,but i'm comfortable there . Since i'm on concrete 10" thick my main concern in not floor issue but vibration from speaker ,given it is closer in the middle now .

oleschool OP
.I am remodeling a stand alone building on my property.The dimensions are 16’x24’x9’ with 10"thick cement floor.

Seeing your still in the design stage, think of this that I posted (below) on another thread, it IS the prerequisite to get great imagining and depth perspective to your sound staging, to even outside the speakers.
Nothing between as far back as possible (except amp on the floor) also nothing behind or outside speakers if possible for 1.5mts or more.


Rack buyer

I’m quite aware of what negative effects occur with the rack in the middle, between the speakers. Unfortunately I suspect,
like myself, most don’t have the space or the the means to place it off to the side.

Me: It is the single biggest killer of sound staging and depth perspective, it makes a hiend sound into midfi, because there’s no artist to place and see with your eyes.
If you can’t put your equipment rack to the side, maybe the behind you, or as I did in one place that allowed it, the next room.

Cheers George

Congratulations!! You will have a fantastic time in that new space.I know you mentioned solar and you generate the power yourself. Not sure if "grounding" matters in this case. If yes, then make sure that you have that done properly and solid. Don't rush too much on the treatments. I found that out some months ago. Try to add a bit at a time and experiment. I checked your system and see a lot of absorption. If you are going to buy more panels, do consider "diffusors". Make sure that you have the correct lighting. I find that lighting also affects our perception and hence "how it sounds". In my room I found that humidity below 50% is better. But I guess it is personal choice.This is a going to be great. Keep this thread updated. And once you are all set, post new pics :-)

The concrete floor could be sealed (for finish, ez pz) then the use of Throw Rugs for Absorption and Decoupling (gear and racks).
Concrete is well damped and highly reflective .
Also Mass Loaded Vinyl would be useful in framed areas ...

hey Ray,

congrats on the very fun and satisfying process of room building. i loved it for my room. i’ve now been in my purpose built room for 16 years, and it only took 10 years, and lots of changes to my supposedly 'perfect' room, to figure it out. mostly that was me getting humbled and then learning.

so enjoy your honeymoon period, and be prepared to mostly learn and keep peeling the onion of room development.

cheers,

Mike

mike_in_nc
I'm seriously considering treating the floors and do some type of paint on them and just using large throw rugs 

I have a room (below grade) on a slab here in Portland, OR. It had an engineered cork floor, installed at the suggestion of the contractor. It was really gorgeous and softer and warmer underfoot than wood or Pergo.

Water vapor passes through any concrete slab. Over time, water vapor condensed below the floor, saturated the underlayment, and caused problems that proved costly to fix.

Unless you are in a dry area and your outbuilding has a perimeter drain and excellent moisture barrier, I’d be very careful about any flooring that won’t let the water vapor through. There are products made to raise flooring off the slab, and I guess they are used in commercial construction, but I am uncomfortable having moisture accumulate at all. However, they would let you use Pergo or something like that.

We had the slab ground down, a densifier applied, and eventually settled on an all-synthetic pad and carpet for the room. There has been no further moisture problem. Any water vapor is taken up by dehumidifiers (set to 45%).

I am not an engineer, and I can’t provide real construction advice -- this post is meant just to alert you to issues you should discuss with a specialist in on-grade flooring. In my experience, a general contractor and the floor manufacturer were NOT reliable sources of advice.

I don’t want to forget: Enjoy your space! It’s wonderful to have one that large!

I will thanks 

Congrats. Keep a blog and share a link!