Custom rack, isolation under platform vs component?

Thank you. And I added several metal brackets and I am almost completely satisfied with the rigidity. I have another set in the mail, and I'm confident that after drilling those in, it will be good. It is a solid, heavy rack where it stands. And I have Alto Extremo and Stillpoints feet for the components. Thank you for the suggestions. 

Nicely done.  Woodworking is definitely a skill, even on something fairly straightforward as this, takes a lot of practice! 

I like the first iteration - looks and concept.  Assuming the mortise and tenon joints were just glued?  If all the joints were screwed into the vertical legs, I think you would have obtained the structural rigidity needed.  As well as using beefier dimensional lumber for those horizontal pieces.(1.5" x 2.5"). 

I'm all for isolation as well and don't let the naysayers deter you from your design.  For very little cost, you could use springs under those platforms.  You have the background to figure out total weight of the component and platform to get it down to single digit freq (3 - 8hz ~).  As long as compression is right, you're golden! 

Seeing as the platforms are now permanently fastened, you could still make use of springs under the components themselves (directly or via another smaller board), at least as a test.

Looks great!
Check out Nobsound springs on Amazon for under the rack.  They’re like $35 delivered and four of them will handle up to 320 pounds!

Yes, you're probably right. I'm new to this and bought expensive speakers. Someone in an older thread I posted told me I'd learn a very expensive lesson. I do have a power conditioner but haven't gotten too much into those aspects. I'm sure I will and then there will be a new money pit. 

Yeah I understand vibration and all that stuff, but I simply put a cheap acoustical tile panel beneath speakers to absorb most stuff.

The components I have come with nice footings , some come with a pinpoint that sits on top of a isolation disc. I put my power conditioner on an acoustical panel.

I think that's a pretty good way to approach it and is incredibly cheaper then spending a few thousand dollars on isolation platforms which I think Are absolutelyridiculous. For turntable I can see it.

I think spending money to address grounding issues and power noise makes more sense

Thanks again for compliments.

@jumia I'm new to audio, but have some background in physics. From what I understand, vibration in the components can come through the ground from speakers, through the sound pressure waves in the air, and that internal components like transformers can also cause vibration. So even a solid state amplifier can end up vibrating due to these factors, isn't that accurate? 

@zpatenaude37, beautiful rack,nice job! 

Very nice rack good luck.

Why do you need an isolation Device below most components.?. For turntables it makes sense. Otherwise does it really matter?

Maybe if you lived on top of a subway platform but then how can you possibly listen to anything if this happens

Looks good

Thank you guys for the advice and compliments. I bolted the platforms down and used some steel bracing for support. It is now a pretty heavy and sturdy rack, and I pained the frame black to match my speakers and components. 

Very nice. Add some angle bracing on the back and sides, or a small panel and it will firm up nicely. 

Very nice looking rack. I built mine from 3/4" black pipe and butcher block and it is very sturdy. Thanks 

Either should be fine.  I like the springs under the platforms so long as they are stiff enough to handle the weight.  The higher mass will be excited less to vibrate and the springs should do a better job of isolating.

The exception would be if you listen at really high sound pressure levels so the platorms could be vibrated by sound waves. 

Jerry

Thank you all for the replies and compliments. And the floor is solid wood.

This was my first woodworking project. I did mortise and tenon joints. Since it was my first project, they aren't perfect joints, but the rack is definitely strong enough to hold the weight. And since it's my first time, I didn't realize when you order from Home Depot, 2x2 inch means 1.5x1.5. And 1 inch means .75 inches for the cross beams. I expected a slightly beefier rack. 

And I figured using beams instead of panels for the cross parts would offer more ventilation for the components. But now that I'll drill them directly in, that doesn't matter as much. 

Great job on your rack- that looks really nice! Not sure how much “wiggle” you’re experiencing- perhaps using a larger dimension material for the horizontal bracing (similar to your vertical supports) would help provide more rigidity/stiffness. The shelves for the components look substantial and have a nice finish. Well done!

Isolation aside, a neat & tidy job. Well done. If your cross pieces were actually fully fastened solid panels, with the maple shelves on those, all your structural issues would go away. Lot more work, obviously, but it looks like you have the skill needed.

Components.

Nice job on the rack.

Do you have concrete or a wood floor?

Yes, thank you. I am thinking that I will bolt the platforms in to hopefully increase rigidity. I assume that would be most beneficial even if others say they prefer the feet under platform vs component. In my case the rigidity should probably be addressed first. 

Nicely done but heavy duty is key  to keep from having any movement. I've built two and outgrew them both,  one is torn apart and I have some nice maple back on my  lumber rack and the other one I gave away.
I have some 8/4 quartersawn red oak  drying as we speak for a six tier single width rack and am working on a plan. Adjustable shelves would be nice but not sure how to implement.

Your rack looks nice. Perhaps you will make a second edition bassed upon trial and error and the rack will be ridged. Honestly, I believe you need to experiment with your new rack to see what will sound best, based on the questions you asked. From my past experience, I do know that you want a very solid frame with no shimmy or shake.

And it's hard to see from the picture, but the whole rack is on bigger isolation feet, so the rack is isolated from the floor.