Audio Research VT100 MKll Stays on

I hope the grammarians have not frightened off the OP. Would like to know more about his problem or at least the answers to my questions. His English is actually just fine, although lacking in punctuation, as someone else remarked.

Lighten up Tubey, sounds like youve gotten your panties all knotted up. Climb down off your sanctimonious pedestal and go find a sense of humor. I apologize to the OP if he was offended,not my intent. You sound like a pompous ass.

Bravo Tubegroover!

Rlwainwright

How many languages do you understand, speak or studied? Is this site about language and proper punctuation or audio? Cut the guy a break why don't you? What the hell have you contributed to the op's question? That goes for you two as well BPoletti and WinoGuy. Your collective ignorance and intolerance is pompous, pathetic, petty and irrelevant or is civility and respect dead? I sure wonder sometimes.

Maybe you should send it to ARC to get fixed.

Terry, You wrote, "I have it plugged into one of the switched outlets on my power conditioner and I'm just turning it on and off that way but I've replaced the switch twice which both times worked for a while and then the same thing"...

At first I thought you meant to say that you had replaced the switch on the power conditioner, twice, but now reading your other posts, I am thinking you've replaced the switch on your VT100, twice. Which is it? If it's the power conditioner switch that keeps failing, then it is likely that your VT100 draws too much current at turn-on and blows the PC switch. This could mean that the VT100 has no real problem; the PC switch needs to be one with a higher power rating. If it's the VT100 switch that keeps failing, then there is probably some issue within the VT100 such that it draws more than normal current at turn-on, which stressses and finally blows its switch. Simple.
In the latter case, the problem is to identify the cause within the VT100; send it back to ARC. (All tube gear will draw an excess of current at turn-on, while the tubes are heating up and the impedance of the circuit comes up from zero to normal. Many tube amplifiers use a "current inrush limiter" placed on the primary side of the power transformer to ameliorate this problem. Your problem may merely be that the CL in your VT100 is defective. Have you blown any fuses?)

I agree with BPoletti and WinoGuy, having English as a 2nd language is no excuse for a complete lack of punctuation in your writing. After all, I'm sure his native language has such constructs, why should he be excused because he is now writing in English?

-RW-

Czaivey,touche! Same goes for Winoguy17 too!

Bpoletti,
That's very similar to what rednecks would often say to foreigners making spelling, grammar or verbal mistakes especially when they have nothing else to say.

Similar money back story:

A pupil who once graduated pricey private high school in London decided to claim money back claiming he did not learn anything.
Priincipal decides to put series of exams to check if that's really the case.
Every school subject he would fail: science, reading, literature, history, but at the end, in the math exam the math teacher asked him how much school has to return his money back.
Pupil expressed the amount in terms of amount per month; number of semesters and number of months per semester.
Math teacher proudly put grade A to his knowledge of math and dismissed pupil's claim.

Thanks everybody for your responses I think I will contact ARC Service

Terrybaggit - Demand a refund of any and all tuition you might have paid to learn English.

If that's not switch than there must be capacitor-relay issue.
The capacitor-relay is usually implemented to prevent from shock. The switch connects to low-voltage circuit that engages the high voltage circuit.
Plugging and un-plugging your amp is much better solution than keeping it on all the time.

It is the switch on the amplifier that I replaced and its not plugged in to a 12v trigger just the switched outlet on the conditioner as I said with the switch completely removed and plugged into a different outlet I still have power I have also check the switch with an ohm meter and it tested fine so I know it has nothing to do with the switch
Thank You

Are you using the 12v trigger in the back? If so, that's probably causing the problem.

few solutions: upgrade switch to more reliable one or use switch in your power supply or disconnect from the wall.

I'd recommend contacting Audio Research to hear what they have to say. They have been very helpful to their clientele.

Periods and commas are your friend.