So if you have 100 watts of good quality, tube or solid state, you'll be able to make this work, unless you have a large room. It is sensitive to speaker cables though, so you may have to audition them to find a combination that works.
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Again, despite the low impedance at 80Hz or so, the speaker is easy to drive. We got walloping bass using our MA-1 amplifier which is an OTL, which are not known for driving low impedance loads. So if you have 100 watts of good quality, tube or solid state, you'll be able to make this work, unless you have a large room. It is sensitive to speaker cables though, so you may have to audition them to find a combination that works. |
I run my Sasha’s with a Zesto audio Bia. l have had the speakers for about eight years and I’ve tried many amps on them including VTL 300’s AR ref 110’s and 150’s and several others. The Zesto even though it’s 60 W per side sounds far more powerful and has no problem controlling the bass. It’s tight and controlled with a really sweet mid range and treble. Great combination in my opinion and available used for well under 10 grand. I use a AR 5se and a AR cd8 for the source and the pre-BTW |
Hi Kunalraiker, I know that Rogue audio has a pair of their Apollo monoblocks hooked up to Sasha 2's in their listening studio. - they sound fantastic. www.rogueaudio.com |
That one Krell FPB-300c is Class A? Sort of, without the big heat penalty. As it has what’s called sliding bias or plateau biasing (class-A), which in layman’s terms, means it monitors the input music signal and raises and lowers the class-A bias automatically of the output stage accordingly. So there no wasted time and heat in class-A when there’s quiet passages, low volume or no music signal. Cheers George |
Here's a big Krell in Au. I'm sure he'll let it go cheaper, offer $5.5k. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/como/stereo-systems/krell-fpb-300c/1123208940 Cheers George |
Thanks for trying to assist me. Budget is $10K for new but will look for something in the 5K mark if buying secondhand. Prefer something old and grunty. I do not have a Wilson dealer as Iam in Melbourne, Australia. So no demo can be arranged. The preamp that I use is ME14, see specs. http://www.me-au.com/me_14_data_2.jpg |
@kunalraiker It's difficult to answer when you still havn't given us an approximate amount of what you consider "cheap". Your "cheap" maybe completely different to another's "cheap." What Pre-Amp are you using? This could be a limiting factor. If your Pre-Amp is not up to it, it may be pointless getting new Power Amps. Where do you reside? You have been given some good suggestions so is there a dealer/retailer nearby you can borrow some of the suggested equipment? Or is there a Wilson dealer you can audition some Amps with the Sasha's? |
The ME sounds phenomenal but what I want to know which reasonably prices amps can sound better. There maybe amps that can sound better at a reasonable price, but they may not drive speakers such as these Sasha's in the bass like the ME can. But if you take the word "reasonable" out then yes there are amps that sound better and can drive the Sasha's as well. Parasound Halo JC1 Monoblocks come to mind, big Gryphon's ect. Cheers George |
If I had a current hungry speaker and wanted to get decent results without remortgaging the house I would get a Sunfire load invariant amp. I have never owned any Wilson's though and probably never will. I typically wouldn't go for speakers that are tough to drive unless they were panels for the exact reason that I couldn't use the amplifiers that I would want to. |
you'll need an amp with current,What is meant by that? Enough current to drive the speaker? Or something else? We had no trouble getting excellent bass on the Sashas using our MA-1, which may or may not be a 'high current' amplifier, depending on what is meant. 'High current' tends to often be a bit misleading- see this article for more information: http://www.atma-sphere.com/Resources/Common_Amplifier_Myths.php |
I have heard the same too, so a decent tube amp can keep the bass right and get the low freq? Stereophile bench test: " On the other hand, the Sasha's plot of impedance magnitude and electrical phase (fig.1) reveals the speaker to be a demanding load for the partnering amplifier to drive. Not only does the impedance drop below 4 ohms for most of the lower midrange and upper bass, with a minimum value of 2 ohms at 86Hz, but there is also an amplifier-unfriendly combination of 3 ohms and –43° phase angle at 61Hz." Lower bass if you want it kunalraiker clean, tight, rhythmic and punchy, you'll need an amp with current, sure a tube will work and mostly sound good, but the best will not be extracted from the Sasha's in the bass. That 3ohms with -43 degrees of phase angle will look like 2ohms to the amp that's driving them. Cheers George |
I currently have a ME850 amp I own 2 of these amps active bi-amped, and I can say one will drive the Sasha’s without even yawning. If you need to sweeten it a little get a tech to bias it up a little more from 8w Class-A to around 12-15w, fan are speed controlled according to heatsink temperature, but this is still dead quiet unless you put your ear up to the intake vents. http://www.me-au.com/me850data1.jpg Cheers George |
Thanks for all the recommendations, the reason I ask the question was to know what everyone has tried. I currently have a ME850 amp which I used to use with my ATC SCM40’s. With the Sasha’s they seem to not require much volume pot to get to reference levels telling me they are more efficient than the STC’s but I also want to ensure their output profile is sufficient for the Sasha’s. Check the link for the specs and advise what you think. http://www.me-au.com/me850data2.jpg |
One person's budget gear could be someone else's holy grail gear so some specificity would be helpful. That said, I think a pair of Mark Levinson No. 536 monos should be on the short list. Not sure those larger Vincent monos are available stateside but they should be awesome. I have one of their stereo hybrid amps (150wpc/300wpc) and I really love it. Have put it up against several more expensive (and more powerful) amps in my system and it held its own and in some cases even better. Very underrated brand here in US. |
wilson speakers need power for the low impedances (check with cust. support as well for the specific model), but they need a sweet sounding amplifier as well- dartzeel, VTL's (High wattage tube amps), etc.; ALSO, the best wire, the best preamp, the best sources, lots of matching the right components, etc. etc. etc. they are typically a non-forgiving product. the room and placement is also critical for the best results. the sound at the end of all of this work can be amazing though. Even the now-extinct watt-puppy can still blow you away with the right set-up. |
https://www.stereophile.com/images/archivesart/710Wilfig1.jpg 2ohms in the bass power region with some - phase angle as well, is a hard load, these speakers need an amp >100w with good current delivery to get the best from in the bass. Look for an amps that "can almost" double their wattage from 8ohm to 4ohm and again to 2ohms. Old big heavy Krells come to mind for s/h, and for new Parrasound Halo JC1 monoblocks. Big amps with bi-polar output stages, I would say first like the above, then mosfets, last tubes. Cheers George |