bigtwin
Exactly correct, wattage rating for a particular appliance is a UL/CE requirement based on very specific tests and results. As I mentioned, those power levels (continuous) are unheard of in home audio. The dimming lights is another issue altogether, and the breaker size isn't going to help that. This is a source power issue, and could be poor connections in the primary feed, under-rated house/apt current supply, generally lower than normal voltage at source, or even an under rated/over utilized transformer at the pole. You have to id the problem before you can fix it.
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I feel we often confuse the Watts rating of our equipment with the real world power they use. I have two Hegel H30 mono amps rated at 1150 watts each. In theory, I require 19 amps just for these. I can tell you that they only draw about 5 amps combined when I am running them. With all the equipment the OP is using, I can see the need for more than one 15 amp breaker. I could be wrong but I would bet the sub amps are D Class and don't draw anywhere near 8 amps (1000/120). Your dimming lights suggest another breaker is required but the fact you're not constantly tripping the current 15 amp breaker tells the tale.
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invalid
Sorry to agree to disagree. What you are referring to is the instantaneous peak load response and what you would call droop in that particular measurement, measured in microseconds. To some extent effected by wire gauge and contact resistance in the power delivery circuit, source impedance etc. My point was you would need a great deal of that differential to notice a 15 or 20 amp circuit difference. This can be verifiable if you want to take it to that level. Sometimes sound science and engineering are good things so people aren't wasting their money on snake oil. Again no disrespect to your opinion.
joshziggie2021
In your particular case, I am indeed puzzled by the specs you are stating. 4kW for subs and 3.4kW from other amps? This represents a truly incredible amount of energy and, in your case if you are experiencing anywhere near these load values, that would best be served by a minimum of a 60 amp circuit at 120VAC, (30 @ 220VAC)Running 6 or 8 AWG cable. Those load values would be similar to a sound reinforcement system for a small stage. Please guys, I do this for a living. I'm very much all about a solid power supply system, but science and math should dictate, not guesswork.
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outlets are always in parallel.
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@joshziggie2021 Don't lisen to @impaler he doesn't know what he is talking about, you will get better performance from your equipment with dedicated 20 amp circuits. The problem with people who use math on this type of problem is they don't realize just how much the current draw is for really short durations, you can't measure it with a multimeter.
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@impaler you do not think this could be a fire hazard as I will be potentially pulling 4000 watts from subs , 2400 watts on AMP 1 and 2 and 1000 from other amps ?
A 15 amp outlet can only cover up to 1800 watts max . How is it okay to draw 5000+ watts from 3 outlets that are interconnected to one 15 amp breaker ?
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Tempest in a tea cup. The power draw (E x I) from an average home audio system is negligible, unless you're running quad Class A mono blocks at 100 wpc each to supplement your home heating system. Even 200/300 wpc class AB amps average less than 5 amps , and 15 amp circuits will handle this even added to preamp, DAC, PC, Streamer, Turntable, etc. It's clean power you're after, and no noise (ground) loops. Also, well designed audio gear will have power supplies that are deigned to operate in real world conditions, so again spending a fortune on cables/outlets, magic fuses is a waste of capital.
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The old-fashioned way would be to look up how much amperage is used for each component and then add up the total. The specs should be in the owner’s manual and/or the back plate. The amperage will increase for the amps during playback - so select the maximum draw as per the owner’s manual.
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Watts = Amperage x Voltage. This formula will help figure out the amperage if it’s not listed. How’s your algebra?
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- Ideally, from an electrical perspective, the same amount of amperage should be on each separate circuit - to keep the legs (phases) balanced. It’s highly unlikely that anybody actually does this in their home - and it’s not dangerous with a good utility panel installed. Balanced phases are used primarily in industrial/commercial installations. (Balanced phases vs Balanced power are two completely different applications.)
- Ideally, from an audio perspective, the digital components should be on a separate circuit than the analog components. Or they can be separated via a power conditioner if a circuit is to be shared.
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meaning drawing current from one outlet will drain the other two.
It doesn’t work that way. Neither the current (amperage) - nor the voltage - will be affected as long as the load is under the circuit rating. If the load is over the rating, the voltage may reduce and the wire itself will get warm to hot - depending on the load. The circuit breaker should trip if the load the load is too high - thus preventing any electrical fires.
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Most responses are correct. The most important factor is to dedicate the power supply run to your audio console; i.e., run a 12/2 cable (with ground) directly from your power entry panel in your home/apt. to a dedicated outlet for your audio gear. Using that outlet to then feed a surge protected and individually filtered multi outlet strip to feed each component. This will be a "quiet" feed with no influence on that direct circuit, and also reduces/eliminates ground loops within your system. Of course there will be some voltage drops/spikes/noise at the AC panel from refer's, blowers, AC, etc. but that will be somewhat attenuated by the filtering of the strip. If you really want to get into high performance, low noise power distribution there are books describing how to set up home/commercial recording studios, specifically dealing with power distribution. BTW, standard OTS electrical components and wire are fine. Save your money for your audio gear.
FYI am an electrical engineer by trade, mostly designing power distribution for mobile and marine applications, but many of the principles' remain constant for home/commercial applications.
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I'd personally have run 3 dedicated lines in my new listening room, 2 for amps and 1 for signal components; but I am NOT an electrician.....and will only be running one amp at a time.
As others have mentioned, used audiophile receptacles. There are lots of good choices, but I can recommend: Furutech GTX-D (G - Gold), Furutech GTX-D (R - Rhodium), Oyaide R-1 (NOT the SWX series), and for cost conscious Acme Audio Labs Silver cryogenic with CFC coating (Revolution Audio). Check around on pricing, the Furutechs and Oyaide R-1.....prices can vary by about 30% depending on where you buy them.
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Check the wire on the existing circuit. If you have 12 awg, replace the 15 amp breaker with a 20 amp. If you have 14 awg, do not upgrade the breaker. Remember, many homes have 20 amp breakers but use 15 amp receptacles in series. 10 awg wire is usually rated up to 30 amps. However, if you have a long run, you can use 10 awg for the 20 amp circuit. If you’re running a home run for each receptacle, use 20 amp receptacles. Hubbell makes high quality hospital grade receptacles worth consideration. Hope this helps.
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Why does no one discuss 30 amp single pole runs? They plug nicely into a quality PDU, that’s what I’m running a few of to my audio/theater build right now.
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I have the same set up my 1.2 and 1.25 love 20 amp line I can only run 2 amps per line at full volumn.i love the 12000 dead silent
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And for sure a heavy Copper gold outlet Pangea $99 super heavy duty grips power cords very well
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When not just put in dedicated 20 amp outlets bigger 10 or 12 awg Copper wiring
I used awg 10 using a 4 wire setup my audiophile friend showed me .
hot ,neutral , common ground ,and a isolated insulated ground on its own buzz bar and grounding it works great and always quiet not sharing common ground with
everything in the house.
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Additional (2) 20amp circuits for the subs
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Adding up your wattage, I would recommend (4) dedicated 20amp circuits. Circuit 1 Have the MPC1500 with the MCD12000, C12000, SR7015 & Streamer. Circuit 2 (2) MC1.25KW, Circuit 3 (2) AHB2, Circuit 4 (1) AHB2.
this is taking full capacity, which probably never used but done by the spec’s
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I will run all 5 power amp at the same time . And it will be for home theater .
the light dimming issue, is happening with every base when I turn up volume .
each subwoofer is 1000 amps , so potentially , 4000 watts can be drawn just by the amps . While the 15 amp circuit can provide max 1800 watts. ( I’m better off to use a 20 amp circuit just for subs )
now with 3 bench mark at average 300 watts per amp , that’s about 1000 watts just from the 3 benchmark amps —-> , that can stay on the shared 15 amp circuit
the 2 McIntosh 1.2k amp, each can draw 1200 amps ( so definitely a dedicated circuit just for these 2 )
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I'm assuming you don't run 5 power amps at the same time. In reality, your entire system, when running, probably draws +/- 5 amps. Your 15 amp breaker can handle a constant draw of 12 amps, and shorts bursts above 15 amps without tripping. Yes the lights might dim for a second when you fire the amps up, but that's a momentary rush of current. If running dedicated lines makes you feel good, go ahead. I doubt you will ever notice a difference in sound. IMHO
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I'd run 3 x 20amp breakers on the same leg using 10 gauge cable.
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