Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
Ag insider logo xs@2xrauliruegas
I can add that big metal/glass table and those chairs exactly at the speakers/high frequencies side and first reflextions and followed for what you have at less that one meter behind your seat position. Can you share with all the gentlemans in this thread where are your subs in the room and its playing range frequency and the playing frequency in your speakers?

I have the videos to show EXACTLY what my system sounds like (from the listening position) within the room.
This includes all the furniture, glass doors, glass table etc....
You have NOTHING in comparison to show what your system sounds like....and I have no hesitation in stating that it is decidedly MEDIOCRE.

If someone is ignorant about the way the Vandersteen 2Wq subwoofers are designed to be placed.....it is recommended that this ignorance is not repeatedly displayed.
My videos prove that the bass response is far better than yours....

Oh....and put the Timeline on your turntables (as I have done HERE) and you will see how poorly they perform 🤗

Looking forward to the main course....👅
In a mass limited system, such as a tonearm, one has to decide how to use the available mass. One option is put it all toward rigidity, which makes the resonant modes as high in frequency as possible. An alternative is to put a portion of the mass toward damping, which will lower the resonant peak, but it will be lower in frequency.

Stiff/damped systems are a holy grail of structural and material engineering. DARPA keeps pushing this area. There are some promising directions in the area of nano materials and MEMS, but the technology is in its infancy, with no practical solutions yet.
 Dimitri, thank you for your input. You undoubtedly have a greater understanding of the physics than any of the rest of us. However, you need to be aware that there is no common agreement about what is the proper outcome of using damping or not using it, making things rigid or making them flex, etc. Furthermore every cartridge will have a slightly different characteristic of itS own that demands slightly different modes and levels of damping or lack of damping to bring out its best SQ. And finally there is no consensus among audiophiles about what is the best of anything. (Just read the last ten posts on this thread.) So you can see that the situation in audio is much more complex than in designing aerospace devices, where you are probably very sure of your desired end point.
Dear @dimitry  :  "  Stiff/damped systems are a holy grail of structural and material engineering.... "

no doubt about but as @lewm  pointed out the relationship between LP  recorded surface/TT mat/TT clamp/tonearm headshell/tonearm arm wand/tonearm bearing design/tonearm VTF mechanism/tonearm internal wiring//tonearm to phono stage cable/cartridge build material body/cartridge design motor/cartridge/compliance/cartridge cantilever-stylus shape-build materials and cartridge/tonearm set up parameters amkes an extremely complex whole work for the theory ideal could really happens in the way you posted.

Analog high quality performance levels are very complicated ( for say the least ) to achieve it. I'm still in the quest of that " perfection ".

R.


@harrold-not-the-barrel

Believe it or not, but i’m not a fan of Astatic/Glanz cartridges at all, there is ONLY ONE cartridge made by Mitachi for the Glanz that i choose personally for its exceptional sound quality. I can still recommend some other Glanz/Astatic carts to the members because of the very low price (for a NOS) units from that Japanese seller on ebay (very good deal for $200-450, bargain. In this price range they are very good).

Every post in this forum is a personal opinion of the members, you like it or not. I will add my own pictures in this post, so you can see the cantilevers, styli etc. it was not easy to find some of them as they are very old.

I owe a Micro Ridge "MR-100" stylus for my ASTATIC MF-100 cartridge. Naturally it´s way better than your "similar" Pyramidian 71L. You really are a funny guy because you actually say my sample is not what I say about.


This is a genuine stylus for Astatic MF-100 cartridge (this picture is from audiogon listing) made by Astatic and sold in Astatic box, read which stylus tip it has (Shibata). You see?

If your stylus is different you might have something special (good for you), but could you please post a picture, if you really want to contribute on this forum, it would be nice to see it. What kind of cantilever BTW?

I’m pretty sure no one never seen a Micro Ridge stylus for Astatic MF-100 or MF-200. Also i’ve never seen any manual for Astatic with even any mention of the Micro Ridge stylus as an option.

ALL Astatic MF-100 and MF-200 cartridges that i have seen have a Shibata profiles on Aluminum cantilevers by default.

I hope you’re not trying to say that ALL those models are Micro-Ridge, because they are not (except your sample, which is rather an exception if it’s true).

You blame me because my statement about Shibata (as a default stylus profile) is exactly what Astatic advertized for their MF-100 and MF-200 cartridges?

Do you have any ads with MicroRidge for Astatic?

I can hear a difference Shibata vs Micro Ridge, I always prefer Micro Ridge.

Me too, but serial models of Astatic and Glanz does not have a Micro Ridge styli. Everybody knows that Astatic comes with Shibata and Glanz with LineContact (except for Boron/Paroc profile on 61 model).

If you stylus replacement is "MR-100" (MicroRidge) then it’s something special, but not a regular serial model.


I also can hear a difference Shibata vs Line Contact.

I’m glad you can hear the difference, i hope you can hear it on the same cartridge, just replaceing the styli with different profiles? To me both profiles are excellent!


You have compared all other GLANZ/ASTATIC carts to your MFG-61 ?


I am not crazy to buy all of them, i just bought the most popular (claimed to be "the best" for some reason) such as 31L (MF200) & 71L (MF100). On the lower side i’ve tried Azzurra Esoter too. All of them creamed by Glanz 61 in the first 10 second on my Reed 3P "12 Cocobolo tonearm, it’s so obvious that 61 is a keeper, the rest are gone and i don’t need them again.

Look, i’m not gonna prove anyone which cartridge is "the winner", for me there is no questions that 61 is the best among any MF cartridges made by Mitachi Corporation for whatever brands and i’m not gonna sell it.

I don’t even understand why this discussion is hot again.

Astatic and Glanz are all made and desidned by Mitachi Corporation in Japan. Glanz is a Japanese company, Astatic is Canadian company.


But you have no idea what my MF-100 let alone MF2500 is capable of because you have NOT heard them.

Astatic MF100 or MF200 are cheap cartridges available for $200-300 NOS right now, why do you think i have never heard them? What makes them so special in your world? Strange.

I’ve never owned MF-2500 - this is true.


Your comments about comparing say an MF-200 is the same as an MFG-310LX actually means nothing. "No difference in sound" is not true, and to me it´s rubbish.

No difference between MF-200 and 31L (not your 310LX, which is a later version).

Well, seems to me your 100 kOhm setting must twist you judgements. Like it almost did mine a few years back. Now I use 20-30K, 47K max.

I have compared those cartridges before i have upgraded ONE of my phono stages with 100k Ohm, so the 31L/MF200 & 71L/MF100 compared with 47k Ohm in my tube system years ago.

With 20-30k you just roll-off the high frequency, this is definitely not for me. And those carts are not bright to roll-off the highs trying to make them warmer (imo).

According to the manual, the MFG-71L has flattest FR and lowest VTF of all the MFG-XXX series.

Looking at the manual right now i can’t see any difference between 71L and 51L in the frequency response ( 20 - 20 000 for both carts).

Not sure what are you or Mexican are trying to say by comparing tiny differentce in the specs, it makes no sence to take it seriously as advantage or disadvantage at all. I really doubt anyone can hear the difference in compliance between 10cu and 12cu (100Hz), or channel separation between 23db or 25db. Or cartridge self weight? Your brain is not a computer.

And finally if i really need a different sound i can connect a different cartridge from different manufacturer.

What is your MFG-61´s VTF, surely is 1.00 - 1.50 g, optimum 1.25 g ? What is FR flatness, tolerance ? For the best it must have the best specs as well. Let us know.

I’ve bought my Glanz 61 without the box and manual long time ago. The only person i know who had the manual was @nandric, but he sold his 61 before i bought mine. No manual yet. Only some information online from other users. I trust my ears, Glanz 61 has completely different sounds because of the different cantilever and different stylus tip, much more refined than any Astatic/Glanz i have ever tried.


You are so obsessed/biased to cantilever material/stylus shape that you have lost your common sense. It´s just one part of cart mythology. Cart´s performance level depends on various factors, and the most important is the deck itself, all the turntable construction defines a cartridge´s potential.

Maybe, i think we’re all a bit crazy, because no one in this world need so many cartridges to enjoy the music. But i think my turntables, tonearms, amps and preamps, speakers and cables, or even room treatment now pretty decent. I’ve been working hard on it.


Try to find an MF2500, you have another hard job.
It´s rarer than Hente´s teeth.


Well, we may never seen the manual for Glanz 61, but i’ve seen the manual for Astatic MF-2500 when it was for sale once. I didn’t noticed anything special about this cartridge on paper, maybe i’m wrong.

And finally there is no consensus among audiophiles about what is the best of anything. (Just read the last ten posts on this thread.) So you can see that the situation in audio is much more complex than in designing aerospace devices, where you are probably very sure of your desired end point.
So it's easier to reach other planets, land vehicles on their surface that split the rocks and excavate the soil and analyze their chemical components and test for traces of organic life that disappeared a billion years ago etc — than to play a record?

I think rather that getting ten 'audiophiles' to agree is the more complex task.


@dimitry : Not only I forgot somethings but remember others for you and audiophiles:

Sttifness is a must to have in cartridge cantilevers and Boron has the higher Young Modulus value that any other material but diamond and between other things that is one of the main reasons that makes that LOMC cartridge very well regarded designers choosed boron as their main cantilever build material.

But if we return to tonearms we have your " " Stiff/damped systems are a holy grail """ in the Technics EPA100MK2 tonearm designed several years ago where the tonearm build material is Boron along a unique tonearm damping mechanism that even today no one other tonearm design are near it and is the envy of any one.

As tonearm neutral performance nothing yet can compare it, certainly the steel vintage non-damped Fidelity Research designs are way far away of that " holly grail " and not only for that but because that tonearm design has several other design " mistakes ".

Unfortunatelly that Technics tonearm is out of production but Technics corporation has not only the know-how but the resources to manufacture it again. Yes, boron laminated way is expensive but Technics is part of the Japanese gigant Matushita Co.


Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.


Dear @bima : As in any topic/subject in the day by day life discussions came and gone but the hot ones came and will comes as a result of very high differences between ignorance levels of each of the persons involved in that hot discussions.

As the differences in the ignorance levels are higher in one side the discussion goes hotter bording in the stupidity stage but unfortunatelly are persons that it's exactly this stupidity what they like to show through the discussions

All of us have our each one ignorance levels is several audio/MUSIC specific subjects. As I said before: no one knows everything on every issue, no one.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R..
Raul,

Your first response to my post on stiffness/damping is confusing.

Your second response seizes on a single phrase ("holy grail") and attempts to use it to prove that you are right. Its a bad rhetorical habbit.

By stiff/damped, i don't mean a clever mix of materials, but a single material that exhibits this combination of qualities through its innate composition or nano scale architecture.

Nonetheless, Technics is rightly famous for its highly innovative use of matetials in general and Boron in particular, so i am sure that this arm is excellent.

However, just as with boron pipe technology, it is likely that this approach is unavailable today essentially at any price. Unfortunately, a fact of life, like President trump.
@manorraul

halcro over the years I have turn to this very pleasant thread to learn and enjoy. Raul has motivated me to buy some excellent cartridges which have improved my system and saved me money. IT’S A HOBBY- CAN I PLEASE ENJOY IT?? There must be other places you can peddle that anger. PLEASE.

This thread motivated many people to start search for rare MM and MI cartridges as an alternative to overpriced LOMC of today. Apart from the OP this thread is full of great contributors and @halcro is one of them, there are many others who left the forum in the battle with the OP who wasn’t kind at all, it fact he was very rude if someone doesn’t care about his opinion.

Each of us has a personal experience with dosen of vintage cartridges and we have our own preferences today, based on actual experience, comparison tests etc.

The OP has disappeared for a long time and came back with shocking news that Digital is better than Analog and MC are better than MM/MI (again). Which makes 257 pages of this thread useless. The OP is the one who trying to "hardly promote" his personal opinion which is the oppisite to what he proudly reported years ago in the same thread. He is the one who contradict to himself and this is the reason why his opinion must be ignored or not taken seriously anylonger for those who’re still with analog (not with digital) and with MM/MI over MC (like our Halcro).

To others- if you ignore this guy he may go away after a while.

It would be very nice. Because in 2019 we need a contribution on another level, a person who’s all about digital can’t even upload a digital phono, video or scan of the cartridge manual ... or any documentation, except for his rude words that we must trust for some reason.

The reason I don’t post is that I’m not much of an expert and everything you say is subject to attack and ridicule- audiophiles in person are almost always respectful and pleasant (except for the occasional salesman that tells you everything you have is trash and you must buy HIS stuff). Anonymity has bred contempt and arrogance.

Halcro is absolutely right, i have no problem with his posts.

You can get the OP’s advice if you don’t have your own opinion, but when you have your own opinion it can be quite opposite to the OP and everything he has recommended as "a must have". Actually his best recommendation nowadays is to buy digital and forget about analog or always comparing how "better" the digital over analog (what a waste of time for analog lovers).

This is ANALOG section of the audiogon forum and an old thread about Phono Cartridges, right?

This thread is uselless we we’re all going over and over again. I think all the best cartridges have beed discovered long time ago. People discovered amazing cartridge that the OP never owned, never tried.

Many readers missed the point that almost all cartridges that OP owned are refurbished, retipped once, not the original. Can you accept it? I can’t !

He paid crazy price to VdH to refurbish his Technics cartridges while many much better top of the line vintage cartridges available today NOS and does not required any terripping/refurbishing. The price for those carts are lower than for Technics carts.

His best recommendation (and i’m wondering he still promote it) is the most problematic Technics cartridge ever made due to very bad damper material used in its design (maybe 1 sample of 10 can track the groovew withouit falling on the vinyl surface). The AKG also notorius for very bad damper! Those cartridges must be avoided, but in his world "they are the best ever" along with some cheap awful 60’s design of extremely high compliance ADC he promotes now.

Enough for me. As Halcro said everything Raul post here "as the best" must be in "ignore list" of those who understand what is a spectacular cartridge really is.

Personally i don’t need any "Guru" (who can’t even write in English) to explain me why his mediorce MM/MI cartridges are the best and why some of my favorite cartridges (he has adored himself many years ago) are so bad now. Why his personal opinion always wright and any others are always wrong.

Actually he does not provide any valid information, i can find much more information online easily by looking at the documents at some valid sources.

I am pretty much ignoring his posts after he has crossed the red line being very rude.


So what makes him special? Where is his system as Halcro asked?

He does not own this thread, it’s time to say the truth.




Finally, an important question for the group. I "cleverly" found space for an eighth turntable in my main system. Given the following current needles used, which should i consider for addition?

Technics EPC-P205Cmk3
Technics EPS-310MC
Koetsu Rosewood Long Body
LPGear Series V Shibata
Radio Shack RXT6 JICO SAS
Audio Technica AT33E
Soundsmith Boheme Ruby

I value difference in sound expression. The table is Sony PS-FL1, which is a front loading DD with a light, undamped arm with very goos bearings. Budget is up to $1k.

This baby is available now, from a good seller:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264251570109

@dimitry 

It depends what you're looking for and what do you want to improve.
You can wait for other users feedback about Glanz 610LX, at leat two members just ordered this cartridge and they have many others on hands to compare it to. 

Some of the carts i coul recommend are not that cheap anymore, so maybe 610LX is the best buy option regarding the price/quality. What else you can buy for $450 with Boron cantilever and LineContact stylus in NOS condition (with unique Moving Flux generator) ?  
Thank you for good advice!

Are there published specifications for this model?

It seems very appealing...it will be plugged into the same preamp as Soundsmith Boheme, which is MI...both in the same Sony tables.
where the tonearm build material is Boron along a unique tonearm damping mechanism that even today no one other tonearm design are near it and is the envy of any one.

Not true at all....🤗
No evidence as usual....
As tonearm neutral performance nothing yet can compare it, certainly the steel vintage non-damped Fidelity Research designs are way far away of that " holly grail " and not only for that but because that tonearm design has several other design " mistakes ".
Blah, blah, blah again....
Nothing but words 🤥
Just PROVE something for once in your life Raul and post the sound of your Technics tonearm onto Youtube so we can ALL compare its sound to that of my FR-64S and FR-66S.
You won't do it because it will prove once and for all, that the FR-64S/66S tonearms are better than any arms you have or recommend 😁
@dimitry 

The table is Sony PS-FL1, which is a front loading DD with a light, undamped arm with very goos bearings. Budget is up to $1k.


Why this Sony turntable? For $1000 you can buy a proper vintage Direct Drive or for a $1399 you can buy new semi-automatic Technics 1500c DD with much better tonearm and coreless DD motor, phono stage included, cartridge included. great price. 

Dear @dimitry  : Well, my first post is only to say you that stiffness/damping is imposible to achieve on analog audio.

The second post is to say that that EPC100MK2 is the nearest to your " holly grail " not that's the " holly grail ". I own and it's really good tonearm where almost any cartridge performs at its best no matter what.

Btw, in your post about you neither said in one and only material when a tonearm is the sum of the parts. So............

R.
Dear @dimitry  """  By stiff/damped, i don't mean a clever mix of materials, but a single material that exhibits this combination of qualities """

this is what you posted before:

"""  In a mass limited system, such as a tonearm, one has to decide how to use the available mass. One option is put it all toward rigidity, which makes the resonant modes as high in frequency as possible. An alternative is to put a portion of the mass toward damping,  """

and as I said a tonearm is the sum of the parts.

Anyway, thank's for your contribution and good luck with the new cartridge you will buy inside your budget and your priorities.

R.
Chakster,

I am at point where only front loading tables work, space-wise. These Sonys and FL77s with Biotracer tangent arms are very compact and very good. They cost about $200-$300.

My primary tables (other than Rega P9), are two FL77s sandwiched between two slabs of maple.

Those carry the two Technics cartridges. It did take me a couple of tries to find highriding examples, but it was worth it.
Raul,

I looked up the EPA tonearms and they are clearly well-engineered 70s-80s designs with typical Technics approach.

They have Titanium Nitride shaft, which is very stiff and light, ruby ball bearings and variable low frequency damping. That is very impressive.

However, they have detacheable headshell which intoduces flexibility at the most critical location, non-continuous arm/bearing hub and counterweight that is pretty far away from the puvot point, increasing system rotational inertia. Damping appears to be aimed at controlling low frequency arm/cartridge interaction and not the high frequency arm flexural modes.

There are many excellent "old school" mechanical arms out there and i am sure this is one of them. SME V or Triplaner would be others that are similarly excellent. I own Rega RB1000, which is exemplified by its simplicity (mine is rewired, of course).

If you are interested in controlling the arm/cartridge primary resonance, Sony Biotracer is probably the best system available.
The OP has disappeared for a long time and came back with shocking news that Digital is better than Analog and MC are better than MM/MI (again). 
Chakster is right......
I suspect that Raul has already made videos of his System and is aware that the 'jig is up' were he to upload them to YouTube....🤣

So to make it even easier for him (and to prove his declarations on the superiority of digital over analogue)......let's invite Raul to upload DIGITAL playback videos to YouTube to compare alongside my analogue uploads.
This will avoid the problematic resonances, distortions and feedback inherent in his equipment racks, turntables and tonearms.

You can't ignore THIS offer Raul.....? Surely not? 
Dear @halcro  : Even that @cardani  is rigth to stop this " bs of discussion " you always come back for more and you are shoting to following losting your credibility.
Say I credibility?, I'm wrong you have  nothing but those ridiculous videos ( for say the least and I already posted why are ridiculous but you follow showing that just can't read and don't understand why are riculous and why can prove nothing at all. Just for a while or for your fun: change your " fact " and think in real facts. I doubt but...you always can lear or maybe not. Who knows. ).

"""   which explains your liking for 100K Oms Resistance loading for all your MM cartridges.  """

Here in this thread not only me but fleib and dlaloum ( this gentleman is a very orthodox and follows the theory but very good audiophile. ) posted that a MM cartridge response can change with a combination of impedance and capacitance loading. Loading 100kohms makes things better for one simple reason that obviously you can't even seen or see it and I will explain again to help that this time you can understand it:

all phono stages has the inverse RIAA eq. curve that goes from 20hz to 20khz Do you understand this?, ok.

What makes the inverse RIAA eq. at high frequencies? the inverse of the RIAA recording eq. that's to go with around +20db, then the inverse goes with -20dbs for a in theory achieve a flat frequency response but things are that the eq. is a curve and that falls of 20dbs follows at infinite. So all phono stages has a declination at high frequencies losting naturalbrigthness that has real MUSIC, transparency and that shiny that has the MUSIC. 100kohms recovery a part of that losted hf during the inverse eq. stage and that's why every MM cartridge need it.
In the other side during the recording an to prevent that the cutter head could be burned stop the +20dbs in that frequency range around 50khz using a filter..

Ortofon makes a research about and proved all those when they patented his exclusive Orthophase cartridge development. What they did was to joint a " Golden ears " panel ( not exclusive audiophiles like many of us but a mix of true golden ears gentlemans. ) and this panel were listening in different sessions and with all kind of LP music recordings to the same cartridge design where in those same cartridge design in reality had one and only one difference: one sample of the cartridge had flat frequency response to 20khz and the other sample had a +2db at 20khz and for Ortofon people surprise the panel choice was what they listened through the sample with +2dbs at 20khz ! ! !
Do you understand it?

For all those facts you are listening something really different in your " superb " room/system.


""" It also probably explains your liking for those screechy MM cartridges like the AT-20SS and Signet TK-10ML..."""


why do you posted the same again when already I explained to you why you are wrong?, here again hopping you can understand this time:

in this last two pages of the thread at least one gentleman posted more than once he really is in love with the AT 20SS. In reference to the TK10ML you named again y posted before that the Signet I touted in this thread was and is the: TK10MLMK2 that you never own it.
Do you understand it this time?


"" .AND your preference for MC cartridges and Digital? ""

please enligth all of us your knowledge levekls about:

whats wrong with LOMC cartridges and where are the facts that can prove are inferior/wrong to MM alternative?

whats wrong with digital and the facts ( objective points not  that stupid: " I like it more analog ", that proves nothing at all. ) that can prove it and that can prove analog superiority ?

Please give the answers about and please don't try to come back with ridiculous vidfeos but true facts only. Do you understand it?

No, I don't finish yet. Waiting for your specific answers on what you posted before.

R.
Dear @dimitry  : The one I'm refered is the MK2 with boron arm wand/headshell and internal damping. Yes is a removable headshell design but till today exist no perfect tonearm design.
The Technics MK2 is a true achievement by any tigth/rigurous standards in the industry.

Your RB1000 ( out of production. ) is a very good tonearm too. I had the opportunity to listen through it, very good indeed.

R.
Raul,

MK2 sounds excellent. I would seek it, but that would require a new table and I am really out of space.

We seem to agree that one can get excellent results with and without tonearm damping.
Just another correction regarding Empire 1000ZE/x replacement styli. Empire did in fact change the cantilever design for this. The first originals were nude diamond with a larger cantilever. The later or last version uses a much smaller cantilever with a bonded type diamond. Bluz Bros are originals, though the later version.
I’ve owned a few Technics EPA 500 with a variety of arm wands except the one with removable headshell (A250). I’ve also owned the Technics EPA 100MK2. Though the 100MK2 is impressive looking and user friendlier with the removable headshell. They tend to leak the damping fluid from the counterweight. Ridiculously overpriced compared to the EPA 500 with the 501H armwand which in my experience sounds as good.

Btw., what’s are some good affordable Vintage tonearms folks like to pair with these MM type cartridges?

I was looking at a “for parts” Grace 860 black version. Maybe if cheap enough, I’d buy it and restore it. Wonder if it’s worth pursuing?
@travbrow 

I’ve also owned the Technics EPA 100MK2. Though the 100MK2 is impressive looking and user friendlier with the removable headshell. They tend to leak the damping fluid from the counterweight. Ridiculously overpriced compared to the EPA 500 with the 501H armwand which in my experience sounds as good.

I have EPA-100 mkII Boron, it was a huge upgrade over Titanium EPA-100. Never seen any leakage from the counterweight and your sample might be defective if you have such experience. Both arms are superb for MM cartridges. 


Btw., what’s are some good affordable Vintage tonearms folks like to pair with these MM type cartridges?

The best one for ridiculously low price is Victor 7045, i have upgraded to the long 7082 version last year. 

Dear @travbrow  : I owned the short 840 and is a great low mass gimbal Grace design and if you can find out go a head. Better than the JVC/Victor that I still have. @dimitry  , is for you too.

R.

I used to be kind of a snob about tonearms, investing what was a lot of money for me for a Rega P9.


However, today I am getting decidedly excellent sound from vintage Sony PS-FL77s, with tangential Biotracer P-Mount arms.  Even the "lowly" FL1s, with its light radial arms and tiny Sony headshells sound quite good with the right cartridge.  My Pioneer L800 also sounds excellent with the NOS AT33E.


I think that 1980s turntables, while not in favor with audiophiles at the time, are, on second listening, quite good.

Chakster the bearings were perfect in my 100MKII just that it leaked damping fluid. Got it “repaired” and refilled, It was a great performer but not a huge upgrade over the EPA 500 IMO. I sold it at a high price so it was a good investment. Under $1500.00 I’d say it’s worth it, but now I cant find an excellent condition one for under $3200.00 plus. EPA 500 is more reasonable, unless you want a variety of the armwands. Which are getting quite expensive also. 


Also there’s some interesting new models that aren’t real expensive. The Audiomods is interesting and the MG 1 air bearing caught my eye. Though I’ll probably either build another DIY tonearm or try and find a vintage arm for cheap to restore. I take pride in achieving good sound at low cost. 
Dear @dimitry  : Sony is just SONY. I own cartridges and tonearm ( PUA. ) from them. Yes its vintage overall designs are really good.

Here, something about Sony:

https://www.vinylengine.com/library/sony/total-system-technology.shtml

Btw, I own that VC-8 MC cartridge marketed in 1966 !.

Japanese entreprises as Sony, Technics, JVC, Denon, Accuphase and many others are almost second to none with the kind of research level and human been talent and economic resources that small companies can't even " dream " to approach a little.

R.
rauliruegas "Japanese entreprises as Sony, Technics, JVC, Denon, Accuphase and many others are almost second to none with the kind of research level and human been talent and economic resources that small companies can't even " dream " to approach a little"

If that is accurate, true, and correct how do you explain, defend, and rationalize the overall mediocrity of Japanese audio components designed, intended, and marketed for use in Music Reproduction Systems while there are some good Japanese audio products they are "overshadowed" and outperformed by many European, Canadian, and even American manufacturers. 
@travbrow

Chakster the bearings were perfect in my 100MKII just that it leaked damping fluid.

From the counterweight or from the bearing?
Do you mean loose bearings? 


Got it “repaired” and refilled, It was a great performer but not a huge upgrade over the EPA 500 IMO.

I’ve heard that repair service often change the Ruby Ball Bearings to cheaper bearings from conventional Technics tonearms (too bad).

I’ve never tried EPA-500 myself, but this models is cheaper than EPA-100 on the used market normally.

I sold it at a high price so it was a good investment. Under $1500.00 I’d say it’s worth it, but now I cant find an excellent condition one for under $3200.00 plus. EPA 500 is more reasonable, unless you want a variety of the armwands. Which are getting quite expensive also.

Probably, but $1500 is the price for EPA-100 nowadays, unfortunately prices goes up. So compared to the EPA-100 the MKII is extremely rare and impossible to find, based on this i believe the double price for EPA-100 mkII is a fair price today.

It is true that for $3k there are many great tonearms (vintage and new) available on the used market. Most of the incredibly good arms can be found even under $1,5 in my opinion. And some very light mass arm for high compliance cartridges are much cheaper (like Denon DA-401 for example, this is a baigain).



Dear @clearthink :  "  while there are some good Japanese audio products they are "overshadowed" and outperformed by many European, Canadian, and even American manufacturers. "

I respect your opinion but we need facts about. Here I will put some good Japanese audio items and be so kindness to write/post which Europe/USA similar audio item outperformed to each one:

DD TT:  Pioneer Exclusive P3a or Technics SP10MK3 or Yamaha GT2000x. Your choice.

Tonearm: Technics EPA 100MK2 or Lustre GST-801 or Micro Seiki MAX 282. Your choice.

Cartridge: Lyra Atlas or ZYX or My Sonic Labs. Your choice.

I can go on and on but those simple 3 examples could help for all of us can learn from you.

R.
Dear @dimitry  : """  We seem to agree that one can get excellent results with and without tonearm damping.  ""

not really, we can't do it with a non-damped tonearm.

"""   in controlling the arm/cartridge primary resonance """

Btw, the Technics EPA 100MK2 and other removable headshell designs makes a lot about that non removable non-damped tonearm designs can't do it:

from where comes the first resonance in a cartridge/tonearm couple? from the cartridge self cantilevr/stylus and cartridge body suspension motivated by the tracking of the LP grooves modulations and the platter mat/clamp used on the TT.
After that comes the tonearm/cartridge resonances and what's the very first part of the tonearm that's in touch with the cartridge body?, exactly the headshell.
Well, with removable headshell tonearm designs you can change the inertia moment and to achieve the ideal frequency resonance in between inside the ideal range and you do that changing the headshell for a different weigth one and not only that but you can have the choice to mate to each cartridge the " rigth " headshell with the headshell build material that helps about.
In the EPA 100MK2 not only the headshell comes with a blend of boron but as the magnesium AT headshells comes with a rubber mat a top the headshell surface working as damping.

Other tonearms like the SME V uses magnesium because its self damping factor and additional SME use fluid damping at the tonearm pivot.

Yes, the Sony Biotracer is fine as you said but exist several tonearms very well damped and you named Triplanar and by coincidence SME.

Wich is the problem with tonearm as the FR non-damped ones? not one but several:

first is that's not damped, the damping factor of steel is to low. Its original headshell is a disaster because does not takes directly the cartridge but trhough a inside " plate " that's  hold by the main headshell top plate. It's a dynamic balanced design that uses a spring builded by steel too that rings as a bell, no matters what. Even that the bearing has a low friction figure Ikeda decided to use grease inside the bearing that through the time just drys and the internal silver wire is really bad one.
Mr. Ikeda real business/know how is on cartridges not tonearms, almost any japanese tonearm design is way superior to the FR 66 that's worst than the 64 because its very high inertia moment that needs an extremely accurate cartridge/tonearm  alignment set up.

I bougth my 66 ( with integral B-60 base VTA. I still own the B60 for my 64. ) from new through Japanese stereo several years ago at North Rodeo Drive in LA. Through that great japanese audio item source ( now unfortunatelly " defunct ". ) I bougth my 2 SAEC non-damped terrible and beautiful made top of its line tonearms and Micro Seiki Max 282/237 and Audiocraft 4000 with all optinos. Some cartridges I remember to get there were models by Highphonic, Koetsu and other and several accesories like the metal one SAEC S300  TT mat. I sold the 66 that had not the engineering and build quality level showed by the SAEC designs that's the only double knife bearing design ever but bad quality performers.

Btw, Dr. Sao Win that designed TT, tonearm, LOMC cartridges and straing gauge ones specified in his LOMC cartridge ( that I owned. ) a serious Warning: don't mount his LOMC cartridge in any tonearm with knife bearing. Maybe you remember Dr. S.Win.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.


@halcro : You was who started the discussion with no apparent reason and I gave you my very first answer to you and ask to you some questions that till today you not give yet any answer about. Here is my first post to you:

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/who-needs-a-mm-cartridge-type-when-we-have-mc/post?postid=172...

instead to give and answer you were asking ridiculous things with out posted any answer from your self but questioning only. So I hope you can give the answers this time.

In the other side, remember that email to me that you sended about the Orsonic headshells ( I posted here about in the 264 page. And as you can see I have good memory and never say a lier.) that you were ready to put on sale?, no?. Well here it’s:

................................................................................................................

Henry Feiner <hfeiner@gmail.com>Vie 04/03/2011 11:49 AMUsted

Hi Raul,
I hope you are well and will give that idiot Nandric on A’Gon some well deserved stick?
I just wanted to tell you privately that I agree with you about the Orsonic headshell.
It is the worst one structurally that I’ve had in my system. When I played some complex bass-note dominant concert grand piano music like Liszt Sonata in B minor-Moll by Barenboim on DG.....the notes distorted incredibly. It took some detective work to find that it was the headshell flexing around it’s single grub screw connection to the tube-socket.
But I can’t say anything about it as I’m trying to sell my Orsonic on A’Gon at the moment so please don’t mention anything?
Cheers

Regards
Henry """""""""


...........................................................................................................


R.
Btw, here it’s how measures the phonolinepreamp you own ( not superb as you said. ):

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOoxR2PakvraCY8k6xB6ICem8s2zU5KDsMuFKgU?hl=es

every one can see that it started at 60hz its bass falls deviation against flat RIAA eq. and both channels have different RIAA eq. deviations: are different curves ! ! ?

here is how measures my " mediocre " Essential self design ( with a close friend of mine ) and manufactured by us:

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipM6CYfCUq-UvC1Foljh1V3TgjreftkYZcKANOTv?hl=es

absolutely flat with both channels same RIAA curve eq. response. Deviation is lower than 0.012dbs ! ! !


Next any one can read what an owner of the Halcro DM10 and with a top dedicated room/system posted:

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/experience-with-raul-s-essential-3150/post?postid=326250#3262...


Here we can read of what a gentleman in USA posted about my " garage like " Essential phonolinepreamp:


https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/experience-with-raul-s-essential-3150/post?postid=326188#3261...

and take a look of that gentleman dedicated room/system audio items where he listened my " garage like " unit:

https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/651


Can I continue ?

R.
Remember this Raul....?

Raúl Iruegas Valdivieso <rauliruegas@hotmail.com>Fri, 26 Aug 2016, 00:48to me

Hi. H.: The customs declaration will be as you stated.


Now, I have no pay pal anymore because around two years ago my account was hacked somewhere and I lost " high " money through my bank tool I was using on Paypal. I made it all you can think for Paypal can took the responsability they touted and for they can help me and they did not and I finish that event as a looser. I’m not a seller but a buyer and don’t having Paypal is a problem because through ebay they accept only Paypal to buy.


Now, what we can do ( and is the same that the other gentlemans/buyers are doing and did it with my offers/payments. ) is that you can send the money directly to my México bank account. You can do this through your bank or through Wester Union. It’s an easy and safe way. Obviously I will give the information they can ask for.



https://www.westernunion.com/au/en/home.html


https://www.westernunion.com/au/en/send-money/start.html


Sorry to disturb you about. Please check and let me know.


Greetings,

R.

Trying to sell your ’fake’ Dynavector 13D to me and telling me that you had no PayPal Account (which I needed for my protection).....

I logged onto PayPal immediately, entered your Email and immediately connected to your PayPal Account.

How do you translate ’Liar’ and ’Cheat’ into Spanish?


Thank you, Raul for reaching out to me privately with cartridge sale availability. At the moment, i have all available turntables filled. I generally dont like changing cartridges, hence 8 tables!

Your answer on tonearms confused me further. Since you wrote that Rega RB1000 is very good sounding indeed, and since Rega is undamped, it would logically follow that one can get very good sound with undamped tonearms.

But in your last message on the subject you seem to contradict yourself.
Chakster, the bearings in my 100MKII were original. I sent the counterweight for repair and refill with fluid. Everything inside of the counterweight was fine except the seal. I was out of the hobby for a while and that’s why I sold most of my vinyl gear. Though seeing the prices now, I  Probably should of kept the EPA 100 MK2. 


03-26-2019 8:14am
I bougth my 66 ( with integral B-60 base VTA. I still own the B60 for my 64. ) from new through Japanese stereo several years ago at North Rodeo Drive in LA. Through that great japanese audio item source ( now unfortunatelly " defunct ". )

So let's get this straight......
For more than 12 years you have railed against the FR-64S/66S tonearms on A'Gon and yet.....and yet.....you BOUGHT an FR-66S SEVERAL years ago??? 🧐
And oh dear....the store on Rodeo Drive is now "defunct" and can't confirm your purchase.....😂
But help me here Raul.....
Why on earth would you spend US$6000-US$9000 on a tonearm you despise...?🤔

And how do you explain this....?
05-17-2013 11:58pm
Dear Thuchan: Way before you bought the 8000 I posted my opinions on those SAEC tonearms along the 506 I own ( you can see the 8000 picture in my system. ) and that was way before no one here in this forum speaks about SAEC tonearms. I used those SAEC tonearms for years ( they came after I sold the 66. ).
Er.....You sold an FR-66S before you had the SAEC tonearms "which you used for YEARS"!!!! 🤥
By my calculations, that puts the timeline of you selling this first mythical FR-66S in approx. 2008-2009 if not earlier?

Yet today you claim to have sold your FR-66S "several years ago"...? 🤯
Now I'm not familiar with the Spanish language, but in English...."several" is usually greater than 'two' but less than 'five'.
Perhaps you could elaborate because I think you may be having a 'lend' of us....
Lying to ME in an Email is one thing Raul....but lying to the Forum....?
Tsk tsk.....
Dear @dimitry  : """   you wrote that Rega RB1000 is very good sounding indeed..."""

Please don't put words in my mouth, I never said is very good SOUNDING I just say is very good tonearm and any one that knows Rega tonearms understand why is a good design because its little brothers has no one of the 1000 characteristics but the non-VTA function.
The best of the 1000 is at its design bearings and tigth tolerances everywhere but never said is very good sounding.

Each audio subject has its own scenario and Rega has its owns.

R.
@halcro : It's incredible, you come back for more and who am I to denny your pleasure?, welcomed ! !

Incredible too that with out having the 100% of of the " history " in your hands just came and post with out knowing the facts.

I said I have not PP because indeed it's in that way because I don't use it any more for the reasons I gave you and I deleted my PP bank account/credit card need it to make any transactions trhough PP. The PP account is there, never closed but is useless. I don't buy/sell any more through that PP account. That's all.

Normally I buy through credit card/western union/bank transfer.

That time I told you WU because is a safe way to send and receive money every where from every where in the earth. One other Australian citizen/New Zeland ( ? )  bougths more than 0ne cartridge from me using WU with no single problem both ways.

My Agon/ebay feedback is crystalline.

Btw, that D13 was sold to an Asian gentleman whom already owns two other samples of that cartridge. I sold it at real market price and after all this time he never complain me nothing on what he bougth.


Got it?  

Maybe I or you are stupid because this is the third time that I tell that you was the first of both of us that started this bs discussion and till today did not give me not even an answers over all the questions to you I posted as answer for your started post.

What kind of letter in stupid you don't understand.

I'm here for you but first give the answers/comments on each one of my posts to you.

Btw, you are  a real " kind " of person that insult in your mail to one of your Agon dearest friend ! ! , go figure  ! !

and you want to achieve some credibility for your self with your posts " attacking " ( with out any success. And you never have it. ) me?

Come on a kinder-garden childs could do it better.

Each of your posts are a knock-out by your self post. I have to do almost nothing, good. Waiting for.

R.
@halcro Remember this Raul....?

Raúl Iruegas Valdivieso <rauliruegas@hotmail.com>Fri, 26 Aug 2016, 00:48to me

Hi. H.: The customs declaration will be as you stated.


Now, I have no pay pal anymore because around two years ago my account was hacked somewhere and I lost " high " money through my bank tool I was using on Paypal. I made it all you can think for Paypal can took the responsability they touted and for they can help me and they did not and I finish that event as a looser. I’m not a seller but a buyer and don’t having Paypal is a problem because through ebay they accept only Paypal to buy. ... ... ... ...

R.


He told me the same when i asked for paypal, instead he offered me a private bank transfer or something like that. When i clearly explained i will never pay for the first purchase with anything but paypal (with buyer’s protection) he managed to offer paypal account next day. Maybe not his personal account, i don’t know.


I think it’s very strange, because WU and Bank Transfer is better ONLY for the sellers, but not for the buyers.


I have no problem to use Bank Transfer or WU if i know the seller very well, if i trust the seller and have a good connection with the seller, if the transaction history is very good and if it’s not a first purchase from that particular seller. But anyone can read some strange stories here on audiogon from some people who bought something from Raul and never received that by post. Also a very strange story about his own deal with Axel.


At the same time i know that paypal can block the account, block the money on account or even leave the seller with negative balance if such seller trying to cheat a buyer. Honest buyer have no problem with paypal, but dischonest sellers might have serious problems with paypal and will be banned for use paypal in the future (by his IP address, his Name etc).


Go figure, very bizarre story.


P.S. I refused the deal, we could not agree about the price anyway and the story with payment method was suspicious in parallel with some negative feedbacks from a’gon members on the forum.


Dear friends: Sorry but I need to stop this other stupid person that as the other speaks because it has mouth and as the other needs to achieve credibility that it does not has just attacking/hit me and as the other one with out success and never will achieve it.

Here as a warning because at each thread I posted he is my " police " with ridiculous/stupid statements that are the only " things " that develops his  tiny very tiny brain that even the bird ones.

https://www.audiogon.com/users/rauliruegas?utf8=%E2%9C%93&feedback_filter=all

and in the same way that hacked my PP account here we can read what a hacker tryed to do with my ebay account ( that I don't use either just from the PP problem. ):

Lun 22/10/2018 12:35 AMUsted

We need to confirm you have access to this account, Raul

Please confirm your identity to access your eBay account

Hi Raul,

It looks like you’re having trouble signing into your account.

Please select the ‘confirm’ button to verify your identity and access your account. (It’s only good for 24 hours.)

If you don’t recognize this activity, please contact us.

eBay is committed to your privacy. Read our user agreement and privacy notice. Learn how to recognize fake (spoof) emails.

We don't check replies sent to this email. If you have questions, we want to help you find an answer.

Copyright ©2018 eBay Inc. All Rights Reserved. Designated trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. eBay and the eBay logo are trademarks of eBay Inc., 2145 Hamilton Avenue, San Jose, CA 95125.

Email reference id: [#2d67a8ce2f0d456d86a0d56670e6bb00#]

..........................................................................................................

Both accounts are " alive " ( PP and ebay. ) and I can use it when I decide to do it but till today I prefer not following using my personal PP account and certainly ebay where I have several years that I don't buy through its site. When I need something I have friends and family that make the favor to me.

Btw, that 2018 hacker intent was the third in my account in the last 10 years.

I hope this can help with this person before I take other actions with.

R.
I've related this story many times, but here goes....
I bought a tonearm (from a seller in NYC) and paid via Paypal using my credit card.  The tonearm was in bad shape and missing parts.  The seller was evasive, to put it as nicely as possible.  I contacted Paypal, and they claimed there was nothing they could do about it.  Referred me to VISA.  Fortunately, VISA did help.  I don't assume Paypal will rush to my side if I have a problem with a seller.  I guess others have had better experiences being "protected" by Paypal.

I bought a cartridge from Raul several years ago and had no problems with the product or the person.  I would think that if he were habitually cheating people, this forum would be replete with negative stories posted by people who were hornswaggled, which it is not.  Even Halcro and Chakster do not seem to be claiming outright that they were ever cheated. Raul is much too prominent here to get away with cheating on deals.  I have no idea why he apparently asked others to deal outside of Paypal; he must have had his reasons.
Dear @lewm  : I already posted why I don't use my personal PP account and don't buy through ebay with my personal ebay account. Both accounts are " alive " but not in use for those reasons.

Btw, you did not pay me through my personal PP account that's what I'm talking about. Be my personal PP account is my personal email ID what appears down there. The email where you and me interchange audio information.

You paid me trhough a different PP account and you can check it and it's not need it to confirm it in this thread or other one.

R.
Raul,

Conversing with you is very strange. When you say on an audiophile forum that something is very good, the standard interpretation is it is good sounding. After all, that is what the discussion is about.

Next time, please be specific in your comments. For example, say "Rega arm is bad sounding, but has good bearings." That will make things clear.

Also, please dont bother me with private sales pitches. I dont like this kind of solicitation.
When I first used Paypal, and I noted they want users to link Paypal accounts to personal checking accounts, I actually opened a special checking account at my bank for linking to Paypal.  I keep very little money in that account, because I saw right away the danger that a hacker could access my personal checking account through Paypal.  (I generally keep very large sums in my regular personal account; it is a bad habit.)  So if you were hacked in that way, Raul, you have my sympathy.

One comment on your eBay experience:  It is axiomatic that eBay never sends emails asking users to "confirm" their ID.  When you see that, it's always an email that should be deleted.  At least, that's the way I treat such emails.