Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
Ag insider logo xs@2xrauliruegas
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 I think most of the online companies that sell Styli for what they consider to be low end MM cartridges are selling aftermarket reproductions with a completely clear conscience, because they think they are helping out people who are trying to make a low budget system work for them. And here we are, all of us perfectionists, wringing our hands about the reproduction styli they send us. I guess I am a cynic, but I always assumed the worst. After all, we are talking about cartridges that are long out of production, some that were made by companies that are now defunct. So where would a company like LP gear or Bluz Brothers get a hold of a stash of NOS styli for these ancient devices? Answer: nowhere.
Okay, now I think learned something new today, so I need to correct errors of previous posts. Supposedly all Empire models after the 800 series,  except a couple,  are MI. There’s no guarantee that’s correct either cause I read it on the internet...in other words don’t take everything I post as facts. 
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Dear @travbrow  @lewm  : LP Gear is different than Bluebross, when this one always was a scam LPgear don't said is original if it's not really original.

I bougth from LPgear non-origianl replacements that performs jus ok but I bougth too some regarded cartridge replacements ( I think for AT, I can't remember for sure. ) where LPgear ( well some japanese sources. ) put on sale those replacements as " original " and somewhere I had the emails between LP and me. Even I tested that LP replacement " original " against the one in the cartridge and seems to me that both where almost the same.

I almost never post in Audiokarma so I have not  your kind of information about.

Now, if we own a cartridge motor of a well regarded model with out stylus tip in good " shape " then we must go with the best sources ( including retippers. ) out there and ask before buy it.

There are great cartridge motors out there that deserves a change for the better no matters what or whom.

R.
Dear @bimasta : " I don’t always want "the best". On some LPs the "best" gives amazing detail — a ghostlike little riff on Dire Staits I never knew was there — and now it’s all I can hear, it captivates me every time, I lose the song. A slightly "lesser" stylus brings the fullness of the song back, and I still hear the riff because now I know where it is.

Some lesser styli give me more of the full orchestral grandeur, like a real orchestra sounds, without an oboist turning a page in the score. Great "accuracy" when you hear it, but it’s a Sound Effect. """


My take on all those you posted: a " lesser " or " the best " is not the source for you or any one can enjoy " the best " in the same manner that you like with " the lesser ".
For me the source of that " trouble " belongs to the whole audio system, somewhere in the overall system chain one or more links of that chain are not perfectly integrated to the system: have different quality level performance, something is out of system equilibrium and is time to find out where and try to fix it.


"""
With a Concerto, a lesser stylus can move the soloist back a bit, not so "in front" — "Concerto for Violin AND Orchestra", not "Concerto for Violin with orchestral background." """

well remember that what we like is different at where the recording microphone where seated, normally are " seated " at NEAR FIELD when you and me almost never attend to concertos and seat at 2m. from the live source but the recording microphones does exactly that.

Anyway, just sharing my first hand experiences.

Btw, bimasta my experiences with the 9600 was and is in a truly difficult to reproduce, with true fidelity  frequency range: the  High Frequencies that not even the Replicant 100 stylus shape can't do it with very good cartridge motors.

Problem with sophisticated today stylus shape tip as the Replicant or Microridge and the like is that needs: first very good cartridge motor designs with high resolution not analitycal one but resolutive and second issue is each one of us care on the accuracy cartridge/tonearm set up levels.If that accuracy on all the set up parameters are not optimum then those kind of excellent stylus shape top of the " line " makes more harm to what we listen it than " good ". Obviously that our room/system overall set up had to much to talks about.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.



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Dear @bimasta : Yes and that's one of the reasons we have to take care on at least two things: first mantain in pristine/clean condition the LPs and perfectly cleaned the stylus tip. With those kind of care the stylus tip life will goes longer.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.
Just uploaded a nice picture of the Stereohedron stylus tip.

Stanton's most advanced stylus: The Stereohedron has the advantage of long and narrow contact surfaces that allow it to track high frequency modulation while minimizing record wear.

This is beautiful stylus profile, long life-span, minimum records wear, amazing quality - this is the reason i like it much better than any Ellipticals. 

Dear chakster, According to my information those Stereohedron

styli are produced by ''Expert stylus UK'' . Their own retip stylus

is called ''Paratrace'' which I have in two of my carts. The price

is about 200 GBP. Their chief engineer  has, like Axel, 40 years

of experience.

Dear friends: I'm enjoying a lot my Nagatron 9600 top of the line model in its induced magnet design series because Nagatron designed its very low output ( 0.04mv. ) ribbon design that in those times had a retail price of 275.00 against the 225.00 for the 9600.

I'm enjoying with that 0.4 x 0.7  ELLIPTICAL needle, what a cartridge motor ! .

Do you know that I paid for that " inferior " stylus replacement only 16.00 that for that price Garage A Records shipped two replacements because is the way came in the box ! ! ? they did not have it as single replacement but always 2 samples.

I will come back to the vDh replacement and I'm thinking to re-tip the other new sample maybe with the Geyger2 or maybe microridge one in a boron cantilever.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.

Dear chakster, According to my information those Stereohedron

styli are produced by ''Expert stylus UK'' . Their own retip stylus

is called ''Paratrace'' which I have in two of my carts. The price

is about 200 GBP. Their chief engineer has, like Axel, 40 years

of experience.


Right, i've heard about it. So any Stanton/Pickering owners who's afraid fo vintage (used) diamonds can sent their carts to Expert Stylus in UK. I have contacted them myself and reply was quick by email. But you know i never retipped anything, cos i use originals :) Anyway Expert Stylus are specialized in Stanton service, so i can recommend to others, expecially when the GBP exchange rate is so low nowadays. 




Raúl, I did buy an s2000z stylus from LP Gear. I received it today and it’s the real original. I deleted my rants..
Dear @travbrow  : Rigth, LP Gear is more trusty that what the people can think, at least today.

R.
Believe it or not, there are original NOS stylus' available for the original MM cartridges out there.  I purchased a NOS AT15ss stylus around 12 or so years ago from  reputable dealer in NY, it was exactly the same as my original stylus which came with my AT15ss when I bought it new in 1975.  The beryllium cantilever, stylus body and stylus guard on the original were an exact match with the new one I picked up a few years ago.  That stylus has been serving me well, however I wanted to seek out another NOS AT15ss to have for when the current one wore out as they are becoming very scarce.  I picked one up not long ago from Bluz Bros. for a fair amount of money, but it arrived and was exactly the same in all respects to my two originals; in other words, it was an original NOS AT15ss too.  I installed it and it played wonderfully well.
Dear @slimpikins5  : Yes, some of the Blue Bros. could be original . What makes me think a little with the one you bougth from that source is that they have on sale replacement for the 14 and 12 AT series for higher price than the 15SS that's top of the line. Seems a little " weird ".

I still own an original ATN15SS in original double box.

Time to time through other sources as ebay appears the 15SS. Difference with the 20SS is that this one is hand selected but it's similar AT stylus replacement.

R.
Dear friends: Other " lucky " advantage with my Nagatron 9600 sample and " way inferior " stylus replacement is that due that has not stylus holder then there is not the usual vibrations/resonances developed by that stylus holder.

It runs like a LOMC design in that regards or like the ADC TRX series or B&O or top Signet/Technics ones or even Grado. Yes, it's an important issue.

Btw, I own too a Nagatron 350 re-tipped by vDh. I will test it when I have some time to do it.

R.
Raul; believe it or not, I have on hand 4 NOS in the original double packaging Audio Technica AT-20ss stylus'.   One is in my cartridge with under 50 hours on it and the other 3 are stored for the future.

I use the AT20ss with the SME Series IV tone arm on a VPI Ares3 TT feeding my new Gold Note PH10 phono preamp.  I find that for most recordings 47K ohm input with the RIAA enhanced setting works great.  On some recordings where I'd prefer a little warmer sound, I flip the PH10 to the 22K setting.  I have done some experimenting with capacitance settings and I find the 220 pf to 250 pf range works best with my 2.5 foot audio cables.  I understand that many feel the 100K ohm input loading is best with MM, but I suspect it would be far too bright with my AT20ss.

I have been using the AT15ss for decades and now the AT20ss.  Both are the same as far as I can tell; there is no audible difference as they are equally amazing.
Dear @slimpikins5 : 4 NOS?, well you are really lucky about because the 15/20SS always be a great quality performer. Seems to me that you was enough patience to look for those NOS 20SS stylus replacements, good.

Yes, as I told you the ATN15SS is exactly the same as the ATN20SS, the difference is that the 20SS is hand selected.
To be aware of listening differences during playing we have to have an overall top high resolution room/system.

Any one could live happy for ever with the AT20SS phono cartridge with out to switch to other one, no doubt about.

R.
Raul,
I have an excellent listening room.  I have 10,000 cubic feet of space, 18 feet high of vaulted ceiling; a pair of Anthem M1 mono block amplifiers at 2000 watts per channel, Bryston Signature series Model T main speakers, three sub woofers, two from Axiom Audio who builds the Bryston's and a Bryston Model T sub.  The TT I mentioned already only I forgot to say that the Ares3 has the super platter. And the lovely SME Series IV arm.   Also my new from a month ago Gold Note PH 10, which  is fabulous. 

All that being said, I have never wanted to change out the AT15ss to a MC as the dynamic range output of the AT15ss is simply hard to imagine being bested by anything made.  I don't listen to classical or jazz, I am 100 percent rock/electronic/funk.... MC types are not really geared towards this type of music, at least from what every audio guy I know says.  I have been on the hunt for a NOS AT20ss stylus for over a decade and I was lucky enough to locate someone who had several; so I bought them all.  I installed the first one, which I am currently using and it's equal to my NOS 15ss, only it's ever so slightly more detailed on the very upper end.  

BTW, my brother has an original AT20ss too.  He bought it decades ago when I bought mine as he was so impressed.  He broke the stylus and has not used it in years.  I may try to buy the body from him.

A close friend of mine was over last weekend, he's into audio too, but on the more limited scale (he's really cheap :) ).    He's never heard my system; so we had cocktails and played a lot of music.  He wanted to hear Sgt. Pepper, so I put it on... a mint original copy I have from decades ago.  He was mesmerized; he said he had never heard music like this; he meant so detailed.  Rick said there were instruments in the various cuts he had never heard before.   I said that is what a fine system can do. 
About seven yrs ago I bought off eBay an Audio-Technica AT20Sla w/ original stylus (according to the seller and it looked that). It didn´t sound so good (sibilant) so I ordered a new replacement stylus, ATN20SS from LPGear.
I thought I had in my hand the best possible stylus for this "legendary" vintage cartridge. To my great surprise the cantilever was a few degrees off-axis from new. Well, that´s about the quality level and I realized that those ATN20SS styli are just mass production, not really "hand selected special samples", nothing more nothing less. The problem was an annoying sibilance sound even after 100 hours play on clean records, despite its perfect trackability (100 microns on a test record). I sent the cart and both styli to Dominic Harper in UK, waited more than a year and he fixed the cantilevers and checked all the cart body and both styli and said now everything´s OK and both play just fine, also the original stylus. Dominic did fabulous job as a true pro would but I never touched the fixed cart/styli and sold the damn thing on eBay for a good price.
I also had a NOS AT-ANV150 (MM), well nothing special soundwise really so sold it too.
Never ever will waste my time and money on Audio-Technica cartridges.
As some serious/experienced audiophiles also here on A´gon say, AT carts have a household sound ? Well whatever the case, not my cup of tea, in the end of a day.
Hi bimasta and dgarretson, what does the stylus guard look like on your 2000z models? Is the Empire logo in red or just plain raised lettering? I’ve seen supposedly NOS samples with both types.

Also the 2000z has better specs compared to the 4000DIII. Lower tip mass, better tracking ability, lower distortion, flatter frequency response and better separation at some frequency ranges. Although a bigger tip profile.

I’ve been breaking in my newest Empire 4000DIII. The suspension must be a little stiff because I had distortion and poor tracking ability with even highest recommended tracking force. I raised the tracking force and it’s sounding great. Hopefully with more time on it I can lower the tracking force within the recommended range.

Dont know when I’ll get around to trying the 2000z, but I’ll report back when I do, and I’ll have a good reference point against the 4000DIII.
Harold, I had an AT 150ANV with the sapphire cantilever and micro line. Is that the one you owned? It was the top modern MM model from Audio Technica. It was an excellent performer but I sold it. They increased the price, quite a bite, of the leftover stock , so I sold mine for close to the cost I paid new.
Harold, I will bet my bottom dollar that the stylus you picked up from LP gear had been mishandled and that is why the cantilever was off axis. I have an AT15ss with the same problem, but it was totally due to pilot error on my part. I was working around the turntable and inadvertently hit the tone arm which did a fast swing to the left and the stylus hit the edge of the record which bent it off axis. Believe it or not, it still played fine afterwards, however I know that it was not tracking in line properly.

I spoke to soundsmith about it, Peter told me not to fix it if it isn’t broken and the easiest thing to do is to cock the cartridge body off axis a couple of degrees to align the cantilever with the proper tracking direction. I ended up replacing it to keep things simple.


I don’t know much about the AT 20Sla  other than I believe it’s the aluminum cantilever and that is a far cry from the Beryllium from my experience in listening. But if you don’t like the sound of the AT carts, I understand as we all have a different set of ears.


One other question: when you received your AT20ss stylus, did it come with a response graph in the box? My original came with a paper graph read out of the full frequency range of the stylus.
Audio Technica’s newest crop of cartridges, at least the MM ones I looked at, now use aluminum cantilever. Some say the AT 150sa aluminum/shibata is in the same league as the AT 150Mlx which is beryllium/micro line. Just slightly different presentation. I owned the AT150sa and the AT150ANV. The 150 ANV was not worth the difference in cost, IMO. 
Just from everything I have read from people who have a lot more experience than I do, the Beryllium was the best material ever used for cantilever's.  According to one individual who worked for Audio Technica, they were unable to reproduce anything which came close to the performance of the Beryllium after its use was banned by the EPA due to the toxicity of the material while manufacturing with it.  

My own direct observations from having the AT15s Universal stylus which is the Shibata diamond mounted on the Aluminum cantilever vs. the AT15ss Super Shibata diamond Beryllium is that there is a huge difference in performance, I mean night and day, not just a slight improvement.  The Beryllium cantilever is far more detailed with a much more expansive mid/upper range with superior sound stage/imaging.


I cannot comment on the other variations of aluminum cantilevers as I have only played with the AT15/20 version, but the difference from Beryllium was so remarkable that I don't really have much interest in it.

Cantilevers have been made from aluminum, aluminum alloys, boron both hollow and solid, beryllium, titanium, sapphire or ruby, and diamond. That’s a nearly complete list, unless you want to include carbon fiber and cactus. What do you suppose is so special about beryllium in that list? Are there any metallurgical engineers among us?I also take seriously the point often made by Nandric that only for aluminum cantilevers can the diamond be actually mounted through the cantilever itself, without requiring much in the way of glue. That may afford a big advantage to aluminum over some others.
@lewm

Cantilevers have been made from aluminum, aluminum alloys, boron both hollow and solid, beryllium, titanium, sapphire or ruby, and diamond. That’s a nearly complete list, unless you want to include carbon fiber and cactus.

I would add my two rare Ceramic cantilevers made by Grace (Shinagawa Musen LTD) in the late 80’s for LEVEL II and F14 models. This is definitely the most exotic cantilever and extremely rare. Never seen anything like that from any other manufacturer! 

travbrow, slimpikins & all,
My AT150ANV was sapphire pipe + Micro Line and played just fine and tracked everything easily but didn´t make magic, like all ATs I have had.

My ATN20SS was indeed probably just goofied by the seller but a serious audiophile like me would expect a flawless sample for a new 200 USD replacement stylus of highest quality level according to specs advertised, right ?
Never got rid of the sibilance, no matter how I changed VTA and cart´s body/stylus positioning to achieve on-center tracking. Dominic said he fixed all and I believe him 100 % but I just wanted to get rid of the damn thing.

Nandric is absolutely right about that ONLY aluminium cantilevers provide the tightest fit to a stylus, glue is not needed at all. Following that advice I bought many years ago a NOS Glanz MFG-51L w/ aluminium cantilever + Line Contact. And it´s truly a superb performer, competes with MFG-610LX w/ beryllium cantilever, in my system. I would highly recommend both these true HQ vintage MF carts.
Dear @lewm  : As build cantilevers materials the best are: Boron and diamond.

In the old times the " law " wa berillyum that's not even near the boron characteristics about stiffness non resonances and the like that has boron/diamond.

Was J.Carr whom answer here to a question about stylus/cantilever " atachment " who said that all but aluminum needs some " glue " and that in a cantilever of aluminum the stylus can be attached by pressure only. He did not say that is an advantage or whcich vintage manufacturers did it. He only gave an overall answer.

Yes, my ADC 26/27 comes with aluminum and is outstanding and my Nagatron 9600 even with that inferior stylus replacement comes with aluminum too and performs really good buth both cartridges and many others with aluminum cantilevers performs at that high quality performance not becvause the cantilever material but because the quality design and excecution quality levels of the CARTRIDGE MOTOR.

Ceramic is terrible for say the least. My Lyra Clavis D'capo was designed with a ceralloy cantilever and performs " so so " and when I re-tipped with boron cantilever and through the very first listening sessions you can sware it's a totally new cartridge design.

But is not the only first hand experiences with ceramic: SAEC original ceramic headshells in its top tonearms are absolutely resonant and terrible, AT made ceramic mats as Audiocraft too that I owned and both extremely terrible, remember that Graham tonearm in one of its versions he choosed ceramic for his tonearms was terrible too. Today Linn top of the line LOMC cartridge comes with boron and ceramic but I never experienced this one.

Titanium is a little better than ceramic but nothing for cantilevers can beats boron and diamond.

Again, at the end the quality performance of any cartridge belongs mainly in the CARTRIDGE MOTOR. Yes, cantilever/stylus shape and other cartridge parts are important too but that motor is the name of the game.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.
Dear @lewm  I was so " stupid " about that aluminum characteristic that started to ask my re-tipper to use aluminum cantilever with pressure fit stylus.

Latter on I took in count : Raul if that's so good why Lyra did not use it?

After that I retipped again all those cartridges with boron/line contact and all perfors/performed way way better.

I learn from my mistakes.

R.
Dear @travbrow  : Yes the D3 is really good and you will have a very good contest against your 2000.

Your D3 will improve more that you can imagine when the suspension settle down and you can go to lower VTF. D3 always a winner.

R.
Dear @harold-not-the-barrel  : I don't know the year you bougth the ATN 20SS through LP Gear but 200.00 is a low price for a NOS.
I seen prices for it as high as 480.00, so your price was a fair one but maybe was not a true original sample.

AT cartridges as any other cartridge design has the " house " signature and as you said the AT is not your coup of tea.

I like some of the AT/Signet designs as the 20SS or the AT24/25 or the TK10ML2 and even the anniversary one that as you I sold it.

Btw, yes Moving Flux designs are very good you have too that MF-2500 or even the MF-200

R.
Twas in 2012 and yes not a true NOS obviously. Yes I have the MF 2500, took your advice and got it for a ridiculous price under 300 USD many years ago. And an MF-100, the second best ASTATIC for 100 USD, and believe or not the seller said it would come without stylus but to me delight there was an original stylus. Seller´s little mistake and my luck. Sometimes we just come across the greatest bargains, don´t we ?
The ASTATIC MF 2500 is the best thing I have ever learned from your experiences and one of the very finest MM carts ever produced and sounds just fantastic in my system.
Gracias.
I paid over $300 for my NOS AT15ss and if an AT20ss stylus was to be found, it would be far more money... I had posted a want ad for one and a guy in Russia contacted me; he wanted $1000 for it.  It was not only on the high side, I am not so sure I trust any Russians at this stage of life.  I declined the offer.
@slimpikins5 Just from everything I have read from people who have a lot more experience than I do, the Beryllium was the best material ever used for cantilever’s.



I agree about Beryllium cantilever, i can’t hear any advantages of the Boron vs. Beryllium comparing two nearly identical cartridges (AT-ML180 OFC and AT-ML180 OCC). Both carts are my reference MM and styli are interchargable between LC-OFC and PC-OCC models. Both cantilever are Gold-Plated, the diamond is MicroLine. The specs are very impressive.


I cannot comment on the other variations of aluminum cantilevers as I have only played with the AT15/20 version, but the difference from Beryllium was so remarkable that I don’t really have much interest in it.



The AT-20SLa is Limited Edition version, the stylus is genuine 20SL with Gold AT logo (not like the unknown blank LP gear bootleg). It was very impressive cartridge, but i prefer the AT-ML170 and AT-ML180 models from AT.

@harold-not-the-barrel Never ever will waste my time and money on Audio-Technica cartridges. As some serious/experienced audiophiles also here on A´gon say, AT carts have a household sound ? Well whatever the case, not my cup of tea, in the end of a day.


I can’t complain about Audio-Technica top vintage MM cartridges from the 70s/80s, i think they are spectacular, but a team of engineers who designed them are retired, new cartridges designed by different team. Today’s trend in High-End is LOMC, not Moving Magnet. Obviously an old AT’s Moving Magnet carts are much better than any today’s MM from this brand (imo). I’ve studdied the AT sound by trying different samples and i was hooked from AT-ML150 to AT-ML170 and finally AT-ML180. At least 2-3 samples of each and all perfect.

Beryllium was cheaper than Boron (which is very expensive today) and very close if not the same. Many of my favorite cartridges have Beryllium cantilevers, we can’t go wrong with Beryllium (fact). AT-ML150 is excellent and the most reasonably priced in AT-ML series, it has beryllium Cantilever. For some reason top of the line AT-ML180 released in two different versions (Boron cantilever and Beryllium cantilever). I think AT’s guys understood what is "quality". I really think the Beryllium is like Boron to human ear.


*****


P.S. It’s pretty funny when Raul is talking about cantilevers, when i've mentioned Ceramic Cantilever made by Grace in the 80's, he’s talking about SAEC headshell for some reason, or about ceramic tonearms and other stuff that has nothing to do with the cantilevers. Maybe we can compare my ceramic tea cup to a cantilever?

Ceramics have beneficial sonic properties too, here is the article about Junji’s new line of electronics Shigaraki. This product related to 47 LABS who distributed legendary Miyabi cartridges in the USA (before Takeda-San retired).

"Shigaraki stoneware is seldom seen in the West yet is very important in Japanese culture. I suspect that Junji is probably the first person ever to incorporate Shigaraki ceramics into a commercial product such as HiFi electronics. That’s right, Shigaraki stoneware pottery is what forms the casework for Junj’is line of Shigaraki electronics. "

" Junji has been interested in the sonic properties of ceramics. Ceramics are hard and light and release resonant energy fast. Fine-grained ceramics are good but very expensive. Actually, ceramics of coarser, less pure grain are sonically more interesting. Their resonant character can be more evenly distributed. The difficulty is to ensure consistently accurate production. So when the time came to manufacture the Shigaraki line, Junji found a ceramic manufacturer who specializes in Shigaraki and could meet his design criteria - the owner of the company is an audiophile and music lover. Modern ceramic manufacturers no longer use wood firing. They use gas-firing kilns to control heat fluctuations within0.1 centigrade. Some ceramic artists still use the ancient methods but their approach isn’t suitable for manufacturing our Shigaraki chassis because of the heat fluctuations."

If Boron is so good why ONLY Technics made BORON TONEARM ? Why not all tonearms are made of Boron like EPA-100 MKII ?

And when someone using a Bamboo or Cactus for cantilever it doesn’t mean that tonearm must be made of Bamboo or Cactus too ? Or from DIAMOND maybe ?
All good points Chak.......
Logic has never been the Mexican's strong point.
And I agree that beryllium is the No.1 cantilever material based on all the listening I have done with over a hundred different cartridges.
Many of my favourite MM cartridges share the common ingredient of beryllium.....
Strangely I can't think of many LOMC cartridges with beryllium cantilevers other than the JMAS MIT 1 (another personal favourite).
I have many boron-cantilevered cartridges and they simply don't possess the 'magic' of beryllium.

J.Carr is often quoted by the Mexican as if he were 'Obi-Wan Kenobi'.....
Why does the world need any other cartridges other than Lyra (if they are perfect according to the OP)?
And what if I said that I can't stand the sound of the four Lyra cartridges I have owned....
They are all as divorced from the sound of real 'music' as any horror devices I have heard....
Better to choose the exact OPPOSITE of what Lyra chooses IMO....🤗

Just as I discovered that the majority of cartridges and tonearms that the OP waxes lyrical over were the WORST.... AT-20SS (Ahhhh 🙉), Signet TK10ML (Arrrr 🤬), Technics 1000C Mk3 and Mk4 (😴) and AT150ANV (imitation AT155LC).
And early on I made the mistake of asking his advice for a tonearm and he recommended the Grace G-940 which is the cheapest, plasticky, inept, UNDAMPED Unipivot tonearm it's been my misfortune to own....
Obviously before he realised his 'mistakes' about:-
  • Unipivots
  • Undamped metal tubes
  • Stevensen Geometry

These days I love it when the Mexican recommends something.....ANYTHING......
I immediately add it to my 'official' List of 'DON'T BUY' items.....
So his diatribes are not ALL a waste of space...🤗
Whatever, opinions are like..you know the rest.This thread definitely helped me discover that you don’t need to spend ridiculous overinflated prices for fancy “high-end” brands to experience high end quality. Some recommendations not working out is to be expected because of many possible reasons.

  I always enjoyed DIY, My turntable and tonearm are homemade. Currently using  Speakers, subwoofers, phono stage and Lenco motor controller that I built from kits. Homemade cables and room treatment. I’m not looking to find or own “the best” cartridges like some of you, I enjoy finding bargains though, like the last couple cartridges I bought. 
How’s the Glanz MFG 610 stack up against other favorites? It has the boron and special tip along with moving flux design. Seems it could be a great bargain and available at eBay. 
Just buy it. My GLANZ MFG-610LX from (early ?) 80´s is magnificent vintage classic MF, very balanced & nuanced sound, one of my top 5 of MM kind really. However, that one on eBay you are looking at is not exactly the same I have, it´s later stock or maybe a new design hence different body colour but I highly recommend it nevertheless.
 Someone please tell me what it is about ceramic that would make you think it is an exceptionally good material for making cantilevers. Halcro, you are an engineer. Do you have any notions about this? Or perhaps you don’t agree with the premise.  For that matter, what is it about a beryllium that makes it better than boron or aluminum.? Etc., etc. These would be interesting things to talk about. For my part I will continue to choose my favorite cartridges based on how they sound, not what they are made of or what is the shape of their stylus.  I am more thinking that the nature of the transducing system is a major factor in determining what I like and like less. In particular I am liking moving iron and induced magnet types over both moving magnet and moving coil types. Does anyone else feel that way?   I find it kind of sad to see this discussion turned into an ad hominem attack of some of us upon others of us. There is no need for that.
There was a thread on Audiogon quite a while ago in which a former engineer from  Audio Technica was participating.  He wrote a rather in depth post as to why Beryllium was the go to material for cantilevers and the panic that ensued at AT when the EPA came down with the order that it no longer be used due to the dangerous toxic dust released when machining the material.  He stated that the engineering department underwent a lot of R&D to find a suitable replacement material and Boron was what they determined would be closest, however it was still a compromise.  Apparently Beryllium allows for the largest frequency excursion without distortion and also permits better channel separation and signal to noise ratios.  This is why it was so good.

Here is an interesting comparison for all of you guys out in tone arm world:  I have my original Marantz 6300 turntable which I bought new in college, I still have the original receipt!  I bought it with the AT15ss and at that time I could not spring for the extra cost for the AT20ss.  I was working part time for an audio dealer which got me some nice deep discounts on my system.  The dealer told me not to worry about getting the AT20ss since it was basically the same as the AT15ss, but you know what?  It's like having a Corvette Grand sport and not getting the Z06.... they are pretty much the same other than the 06 has a little more horse power which you really don't use on US highways.  But you always wanted to know it was there and you wanted it.

Anyway, back to my point;  I decided to buy some eye candy for the living room; I found a great deal on a used VPI Ares3 with the super platter for not too much money as it didn't come with a tone arm.  I searched and found a great deal on a used SME Series IV in mint condition as the VPI was.  I spent three days in the shop machining or should I say re-machining the tone arm board which came with the VPI (acrylic) to accept the SME.  When I assembled everything it looked absolutely stunning, real eye candy.   But I was so into my vintage 6300 with the AT15ss that I couldn't believe that anything would really sound much better.   So I felt the best way to test my new set up was to do an apples to apples comparison and I moved the AT15ss from the Marantz over to the SME; this will tell me how the new turntable performs as its the same exact cartridge.

Results:  jaw dropping!!  I could not believe the difference in detail and dynamic range output.  It was simply stunning.  First thing I noticed; I could crank the volume with as much bass as I want and there is zero acoustic feedback from the low frequencies (mind you I modified the the stock feet on the VPI, I removed the useless aluminum spike cone feet and installed 4 SVS isofeet used on subwoofers....low durometer rubber).  But honestly, I was hearing instruments I have not heard before.  Material which was buried deep in the music was popping out at me.  The mid and upper ranges were just there in huge display.   The Marantz uses a steel tube tone arm with a removable head shell, the SME is a straight tapered one piece magnesium tone arm with much more elaborate bearings.  Of course the VPI is a 75 pound laminated beast as is the super platter and its belt driven.  The main bearing is silky smooth and I put some Superlube teflon grease on it.

I suppose what I am trying to say is; the other hardware down line from the cartridge plays a huge role in what you are going to hear how the cartridge melds with the playback gear might have a large influence on the performance.   I was just lucky, my AT15ss, now an AT20ss just fell right into home with all of this.
 
And to add into the mix here; I have another thought I have been wondering about:   I recently picked up a micrometer head which I am going to modify into a VTA fine adjustment for the SME Series IV as it doesn't have this.  The the Series V does have an on the fly VTA adjustment and I want that on mine.  The Micrometer head of course is indicated on the side in .001 inch increments so its going to be really easy to read a plus or minus change and log it in for a setting.

When I make up the parts to adapt this to the main shaft of the SME, I plan on machining a new tone arm board so that it's all one piece.  The VPI Ares3 is a laminated acrylic/aluminum/acrylic 3 inch thick base and the stock tonearm board is an acrylic puck which is machine bolted into the aluminum layer in the body of the turntable.  I was going to make my new tonearm board out of stainless steel as it polishes up so nicely when finished from a CNC mill. 

The question is: does anyone know anything about how a stainless tone arm board bolted to an aluminum mid layer of a laminated turntable would perform?  I mean would it really matter if I mixed materials?   Or would I be better off keeping an acrylic arm board and bolting my new parts to that?   A guy at VPI told me that the arm board material makes no difference; but I have this fancy magnesium tone arm and that made a huge difference.  I'd hate to alter whats transducing here  :) 
I think different materials can alter the character of the sound a little. I thought I heard difference between maple and slate arm pods on my homemade slate plinth. I ended up preferring the maple wood, a warmer sound. I could be nuts though too...You can always try it with stainless and if you think it affected the sound negativity, go back to your second plan and mount it directly to the original acrylic board. 
Lewm, I also like MI types. I might  try a moving flux type eventually. I sent an offer to the Japan seller of the Glanz MFG610, he wouldn’t agree. I’m not willing to spend $450.00 right now. But maybe at a later date.  
I sent an offer to the Japan seller of the Glanz MFG610, he wouldn’t agree.


@travbrow
his price for Glanz MFG-610LX is extremely low! This cartridge is based on my favorite Glanz MF-61 which was sold once for 1200 GBP on ebay (impossible to find model). At that time 1200 GBP was about $2400. The MFG-610LX is later version. None of that MF types (i’ve had many) has Boron Cantilever and nude Paroc diamond. $450 for such cartridge is a fair price, actually very low price in my opinion. The real price must be over $1k. The 610LX is not identical to Glanz best MF-61, but must be close anyway. The MF-61 was spectacular on my Reed 3P tonearm. I don’t know why people are spinning on that Glanz 610LX, this cartridge is far better than some old crap we discussing here.
I’ve read on another forum about this Glanz model, the owners are very satisfied highly praised the performance, but a little concerned that it’s a low rider, not being sure if that’s normal for these models? I asked the EBay seller how many he has left, he didn’t reply. 
Dear @ slimpikins5 : As @travbrow  said arm board material always matters and makes or puts a different " signature ". I don't like acrylic in arm boards and maybe magnesium could be the best way to go, magnesium is self damped against stell or aluminum.

R.
@rauliruegas I read your first post from all those years back, with interest, but admit I haven’t read the whole thread... yet. Just bits of it. Initially you didn’t mention the Goldring (1042) MM carts. Well I have been through a similar learning curve to you with trying to match tomearms headshells and carts with TTs (although nowhere near as many trials) and have landed on the Goldring 1042, Rega RB300 tonearm (quite old now) and Nottingham Analogue Interspace TT. Using an Aragon 24k Pre set at 47Ohms. Have you ever heard this combo? IMHO it’s pretty freakin’ good! :) 
Dear @halcro : You are masochistic because you always come back to receive more. Ok, here I go because you don’t let me alternative:

""" I have many boron-cantilevered cartridges and they simply don’t possess the ’magic’ of beryllium ... ""

unfortunatelly after all your audio years you just don’t understand that the main cartridge signature belongs not to the cantilever material but to the CARTRIDGE MOTOR designs and several facts here in this thread and other threads proved. Yes, you are wrong about but you have the rigth to make it public, good for you.

""" Why does the world need any other cartridges other than Lyra (if they are perfect according to the OP)? """

why exist Chateu Margaux if already exist Chateu Laffite? and where I posted Lyra cartridges are " perfect ". You are not only wrong again but posting liers too.


""" And what if I said that I can’t stand the sound of the four Lyra cartridges I have owned....
They are all as divorced from the sound of real ’music’ as any horror devices I have heard....
Better to choose the exact OPPOSITE of what Lyra chooses """


those statements speaks not how bad are the Lyra cartridges but the other way around: speaks how bad and poor is your room/audio system. I can’t understand why you like to hit you by your self ! ! !

Btw, ask to the Lyra owners why they like their Atlas, Etna or Kleos or even in the " down " models.
Ask your self why J.Carr was and is so successfully audio manufacturer for so many years. Ask your self or ask him.

""" cartridges and tonearms that the OP waxes lyrical over were the WORST.... AT-20SS (Ahhhh 🙉), Signet TK10ML (Arrrr 🤬), Technics 1000C Mk3 and Mk4 (😴) and AT150ANV (imitation AT155LC) """

well in this thread exist several 20SS owners as over the audio world out there and in this same thread page a gentleman gave/posted facts why he like it. Again plain wrong.


""" Signet TK10ML (Arrrr 🤬) """

you never owned the one I touted in the thread: TK10ML MK2.


""" Technics 1000C Mk3 and Mk4 (😴) """, again you never owned the stand alone MK4 version but other than me you can ask to any MK4 owner inluding a gentleman with a true reference audio system as @downunder . Wrong again.


""" AT150ANV (imitation AT155LC """.

who told you ?, Wrong again.


Did you listen all those cartridges named with 100kohms?, of course not because your " reference " phonolinepreamp has no 100koms impedance control.

My fingers already tired to write " wrong again " but such is life.


""" recommended the Grace G-940 which is the cheapest, plasticky, inept, UNDAMPED """


According who is undamped? here you can learn about because even that you own or owned you don’t know on that Grace design:

https://www.vinylengine.com/library/grace/g-940.shtml

wrong again and another lier.


"""
ANYTHING......
I immediately add it to my ’official’ List of ’DON’T BUY’ items..... ""

don’t tell me that because what you have says a way different " things ":

"" Many of my favourite MM cartridges "". Btw, where do you learn on that kind of cartridge designs?

I don’t finish yet:

don’t was you who touted the Davinci Grandezza tonearm you own? how any one could touted a tonearm designed with out azymuth adjustement?
Incredible but more incredible is that you still own it.

Don’t was you one of the persons that were against removable headshell tonearm designs? and today 90% of your tonearms are removable headshell ones ! ! metal ones UNDAMPED. Heavy resonant.

Btw, in Agon I was the first person that touted removable headshell tonearm designs and almost every one just laugh for say the least, you included.

don’t was you the person that was against an older of my posts where I was talking of naked TTs ( no plith. ) that I had? and latter on you started a thread doing the same but at the end your proccess let to go to a no naked final project after all !.


Don’t was you the one who told I’was wrong when I posted ( several years ago. ) the absolut neccesity to have in any system with passive speakers two self powered subs integrated in true stereo fashion?

And was you that latter on bougth a pair of subs for your system.

Why do you own DD TTs?, in Agon I was the first person that touted the DD TTs and how Technics or a humble Denon beats BD TT and many gentlemans here and elsewhere just laughin again but things are that almost all of them rigth now own DD units and some of them makes his life audio business manufacturing DD plinths and other DD " parts ".

You never learn because you started that stampede with the Victor DD TT when by its real manufacturer specs is a way inferior TT than the vintage Technics not only that but the today new low prices Technics units and in your thread I posted facts on this where every one took in count that no reason stampede for the Victor. This is the level you have, certainly not a reference.

Btw, was not you the one that agree with me ( I have your post. ) that the SAEC ceramic headshell was " terrible " one?

Btw again, who was the first person that brougth to Agon SAEC tonearms? yes was me and I touted till I learned and you still own SAEC because you did not learn on it yet ! !

But with that mediocre system is extremely difficult you can learn. You need a true reference room/system. In other threads you and me already had several dialogues about with facts why is a mediocre system. Starting with your room, followed by the subs room position and that non reference phonolinepreamp.

The other person is not different its mediocrity is even higher and perhaps never can learn too.
Both always try to hit me with out success and this fact is a deep frustration for both but always come back for more.

R.