Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
Ag insider logo xs@2xrauliruegas
timeltel, the cantilever on stylus that came with the cartridge is about 1mm at back end with a slight taper forward. Not nearly as thin tapered as a 4000dIII though. The cantilever is About 5.5mm long and the tube in the back is shorter than the Bluz Bros sample.

The Bluz Bros stylus came in small plastic clear holder branded Empire Scientific Corporation. The cantilever on this one is the same size as your sample. The diamond on this one is black over a small clear section compared to all clear of the used stylus. The tracking force spec in the cartridge manual is 1/4 to 1 1/4. So the new stylus is slightly higher minimum tracking force. And Different diamond identification, the new one marked nude elliptical vs the cartridge manual says hand polished micro elliptical. It seems the Bluz Bros is an original, but Empire made changes at some point.

 Also, the reason I thought the Bluz Bros was a fake, is all the used 1000ZE/X cartridges I’ve seen for sale have the same larger type cantilever as mine. Not the smaller straight tube like yours and my replacement. 



Replacement for: 1000ZE/X
Stylus model: Empire S1000ZE/X-ERD
TIP: 0.2 X 0.7 mil. Nude Elliptical Diamond
Tracking Force: 0.75 to 1.25











The diamond on this one is black over a small clear section compared to all clear of the used stylus.

When you see something like that it is a Bonded diamond, not a Nude One. Bonded diamonds are inferior and much cheaped than Nude diamonds (they are always chrystal clear)
Some Empires are black over clear, as is my Empire 4000DIII. Nothing inferior about it regarding sound quality in my experience. It’s still nude mounted into the cantilever.

Anyway, I’ll give the new Empire stylus a try. It’s got to be better than any available after market offering. 

 Also, on a different note to Empire 4000d owners. JICO makes a nude Shibata with tapered cantilever for the Empire 4000D series. I’ve read very good performance for reasonable price.
Dear @travbrow  : I think was me the first with a problem with Adelcom when I ordered a D3 replacement, after that and the refund I posted the warning in this thread.

Halcro just confirmed the problem with that replacement stylus source. Not trusty and I mean not trusty at all because if I remember some one bougth something from Adelcom and was ok but rigth now and after so many years on the vinatge MM cartridges  is almost impossible to find out NOS.

Btw, @timeltel  good to know from you again. Suddenly dissapeared from Agon. Welcome " a board ".

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.
Hi Raul, I am going to return the stylus and just use the original. I just bought an Empire 2000z and ordered an original stylus for it from Thakker. I’m pretty sure they are actually original..I hope. The price was fair if it’s the real thing, much cheaper than the 4000d stylus or edr.9. So any new stylus for the 1000ZE/x is on hold for now.
Well, problem with the 4000D3 is that you can't find out original at low price.

Please let us know your future experiences on that Empire cartridge 2000 series.

R.
Hi Raul, the 2000Z was a top of the line model and highly regarded back in day. Some claim the best model ever offered from Empire. I like the idea of affordable stylus still available. The bodies are pretty hard to find though, they use a mini shank type stylus that is unique to only a couple models. I think the 2000T and 2000X were the lower end models of that series that can use the same stylus. The 2000E/III was okay but nothing special from what I understand. 
@travbrow 

Some Empires are black over clear, as is my Empire 4000DIII. Nothing inferior about it regarding sound quality in my experience. It’s still nude mounted into the cantilever.

If it's nude then it's fine. But Bonded vs Nude is a huge difference. 
Nude styli, shaped from whole diamonds, are more costly than bonded styli.

Some vintage styli needs cleaning, but Nude Diamond is clear after cleaning. I have cleaned the "Vital" Contact Line nude diamond myself and when i took this picture i was shocked how beautiful this diamond looks under my macro lens. Amazing! Fidelity-Research PMC-3 cartridge BTW. 

Bonded is not clear, because a diamond tip is glued on a metal shank that is itself glued into the hole of the cantilever.

Okay, thanks for explaining the difference. The stylus that came with 1000ZE/X is clear. The Bluz Bros stylus Empire is claimed to be nude but I guess it’s a lie. It’s going back for refund so no lose but shipping..
I guess I may be boring you all with all this Empire talk, but just one more bit of information on the 2000T 2000X and 2000Z models. These were moving iron models as opposed to most all othe Empire models are moving magnet. Supposedly the 2000Z had one of the lowest tip mass specs compared to other brands, and ultra flat frequency response.
Travbro,
Please ensure you return it to the Bluz Bros via Registered Post requiring a signature....
Just saying.....
Travbrow, sounds like Empire followed the Acutex program. The Acutex 300 series are induced magnet types (with titanium cantilevers and nude exotic styli); Whereas the later 400 series are MM. I’m still very fond of the 320 models; I own both an LPM and the earlier M type. I own a 400 series too; it’s not in the same league with the 300s.

I have an NOS 1000ZE/X and a 4000D/III as well. Guess I should give them a listen.

I would like it if folks would say what tonearms work well for them with these cartridges. Headshell makes a difference too.
Lewm, which 400 series Acutex do you have? Would be very interested in your thoughts about it in comparison to the 320 models that you have. Thank you!  In answer to your question, I have found my Acutex 420 STR to work very well on my ET2.  My Empire 4000 III performs very well and deserves the accolades that it receives, but in the context of my system’s tuning I find it to be too soft sounding.  Positive VTA helps a great deal.  
halcro, thanks for the tip. I no longer have any trust at all in this outfit. When I talked to this guy, I asked, whats up with the blue dot on some of the “original stylus” cantilever?  He said, I did that, um okay... never seen a “genuine original” stylus with blue dots on them. Only aftermarket stylus have these marks in my limited experience. 

Also, all the NOS stylus I bought (other than the two I bought from BB) came in a nice fancy factory holder and box with a manual, not a flat plastic holder with generic looking description. Though maybe their supplier is the dishonest ones and shipping these as original. 

 
I also found the Empires worked out better with positive VTA, and careful fine tuning as you would any high quality cartridge. I don’t believe the Empire models are real picky about the tonearm type or mass. As long as it’s a high quality tonearm that isn’t very high mass you should hear the potential. 

I’ve owned the Acutex LPM 415 and 420 they were bargains at the time they were available, now hard to find and more expensive. I remember them having a very impressive bass response, clean and clear, and nicely detailed. 
  travbrow
I also found the Empires worked out better with positive VTA ...
It isn't clear what you mean here. By definition, VTA is always positive.

Shure states: "vertical tracking angle is equal to the angle of the stylus inclination defined as the angle between the record surface and a line passing through the stylus tip and the stylus pivot (Figure 1b)."
Cleeds, I meant raising the back of the arm. Some cartridges seem fine when the bottom of the tonearm arm is parallel to the record when playing, others down in the back and some with back of the tonearm arm raised in relation to the record when playing. You just adjust up or down from parallel till you think it sounds balanced or right to you. The Empire 1000ZE/X had a widget that you could put between the cartridge and headshell, same affect as raising the tonearm. Or it would angle the nose of the cartridge down some.

Im not very technical,  so positive VTA may be wrong way to explain it. What is the correct term of raising or lowering the tonearm from parallel? Rake angle?
travbrow
What is the correct term of raising or lowering the tonearm from parallel?
If you raise a pickup arm, you're increasing VTA. Likewise, if you lower the pickup arm, you're decreasing VTA. But it also clear to just refer to raising or lowering the pickup arm.
Dear @cleeds  : You are rigth but things are that several years ago in this same thread and other threads I posted about  positive and negative VTA  tonearm set up and was reffering ( in reality. ) " positive or negative " against tonearm horizontal position/status.

Maybe that's why @travbrow  posted that.

Yes, VTA/SRA always is positive becuse always exist the angled ( + ) in the cantilever position against the LP recorded grooves/modulations.

R.
Dear @travbrow  @lewm  : Not only Empire or Acutex other manufacturers too like Stanton and Ortofon.

Btw, in the Empire line when the 4000D3 had a retail price of around 150.00 the Empire top MI model 4000DV had a price of around 550.00 ! ! . That is more than 3 times the 400D3 touted top MM model ! !

Maybe is time to look for that DV.

R.
It amazes me that I can learn something new every time I visit this thread. I’d never heard of the 4000DV, but I have a real soft spot for MI or IM cartridges. 

Travbrow, I like the 320s way better than the 420, but keep in mind that after 4-5 years of this madness, the 320 is still one of my top 3 favorites. (The other two are LOMC.) Also keep in mind that I have the following NOS cartridges never heard: 4000D3, 1000ZE/x, B&O MMC1, Stanton CS100, Pickering XSV7500, Stanton 881S mk2, Ortofon MMFL Super, AKG (something) and more. This is not to mention second hand cartridges that I’ve never heard.

Correction, the Empire 2000X uses the larger shank stylus, it’s a MM not MI.

Raul, Good luck finding a 4000DU OR 4000DV. Unlike the lesser models, I believe these expensive TOTL MI Empires were made in very limited quantities. Tried s arching the net and nothing...


That’s a nice collection there Lewm. It’s almost impossible to find those in NOS condition. I only have a few left. A handful of Empires and an Andante P76. None are NOS.
I knew the highly regarded MM and MI would disappear from the market, back when we were in the “cartridge of the week” phase of this thread, so I was buying any that interested me back then, especially NOS. Spare NOS OEM styli too, when I found them.
I finally have discovered why people love these cartridges so much and I have my eye open from NOS when they become available.  Some are getting pretty hard to find these days
Dear @travbrow  : Yes, the 2000 is MM and I took in count 3 days ago when I read that's inductance is around 600mh when MI normally are at 100mh or lower.

Now that you named the P76 started a " conmotion " in this thread in those old times because for almost  no money " we had a really good quality performance. I have to much time that I did not listen to many of the vintage MM/MI I still own and the Empire's and even the Andante deserve a " second chance " , well the second chance willbe for me and my enjoyment.

R.
Dear @lewm  : Astatic 2500? well you are looking to a true star over almost any other vintage cartridges but the ADC 26/27.

I was lucky enough to owned and years latter I sold it ( no regret about? I can't say because is a great performer. ).
I remember that when I still had it a gentleman ask me about by email and my answer to him was something like:

"" please don't ask and buy as soon is possible  " and he did it and was and I could think still are exited/happy with.

Other than the 26/27 that no  other can touch it, the MF 2500 is a today true challenge for today top LOMCs.

In this thread I posted about the 2500 that was not the latest Astatic cartridge design but came before the MF series 100/200/300. 

2500 best Astatic ever.

Hard to find out especially in good operation condition. My sample came directly by a gentleamn that contacted direct to me to made his offer. I knew this gentleman because he is a Fulton LOMC collector and he bougth fom me the very good Fulton Blue  cartridge model.

R.
Raul, it’s confusing the way Empire named their models. The 2000Z is MI while the 2000X is MM. They both came in similar wooden display packaging and have the model number marked in fancy red lettering on the bottom of the cartridge. I believe the 2000Z was double the price back then, the TOTL in the 2000 series. And then the cheaper 2000E Versions are MM. Original Empire s2000Z replacement Stylus are still available at lpgear for $99.00, and Thakker for a little more. I didn’t know lpgear had it or I wouldn’t have ordered it from Thakker.

Also, Empire made a ridiculous number of different models numbers, think about 15 different models can use that s2000Z stylus. They are the MI models.

Another thing, since I’m on the Empire cartridge topic. It seems a few of the TOTL models came originally with the hand polished one piece clear diamond and later at some point the replacement stylus look to be two piece diamond or bonded. They tip looks black on those with a small clear section that I believe is press fitted into the cantilever.
@travbrow  : Not only that, Empire functioned as OEM for other names in the market, something as AT or Denon. In those times that was often that we can think. And as AT ( Precept. ) Empire had too " side lines " that I can't remember its names rigth now.
Empire was a real leader in its times.

R.


@cakyol

 Let me tell you my experience. I have come to experience (not believe) that it is NOT the type of the cartridge (MM/MC) but more the actual type of the stylus (elliptical, shibata, microline, van den hul, etc) that seems to make a much bigger difference to the quality of sound. I am not saying that a $500 MM cartridge sounds as good as the $10,000 Lyra atlas but when properly furnished with a good stylus, most MM cartridges are about 80-90% of the performance of an MC cartridge.... especially with my hearing :-) The difference is definitely not worth the $9500 price difference.

You're are right, absolutely. The reason i love and collect Grace F14 and LEVEL II cartridges is because Grace made so many different styli for them with Boron Pipe, Beryllium Pipe, Sapphire Pipe, Ruby and even extremely rare Ceramic cantilevers. These stuff comes with MicroRidge, MicroLine, Shibata nude diamonds. Simply amazing! 



Also, MM carts are cheaper, styli can be replaced and they do not need very expensive phono stages. Plus, most seem to be of relatively higher compliance so they can be used with lighter arms. So, if you have an older vintage arm, MMs are typically more suitable to be used.

Yes, another reason i like many of them for my Grace top models. So easy to swap, so nice for the sound qulity. 

MM technology is so cool and user friendly.  
Grace LEVEL II and F14 are definitely my favorite MM type when it comes to different styli. The most universal cartridge ever made. 



Yes generally the better the stylus the better the sound for a particular model. But Ive come to the conclusion that a cartridge with just a mediocre aluminum/elliptical can sound impressive. Raul’s new favorite is a low priced ADC with elliptical stylus is an example. 

 I prefer my vintage cartridges with aluminum/elliptical type stylus compared to the fancier ones I tried. I had an AUDIO TECHNICA 150ANV with the sapphire and MicroLine, very nice but I ended up back to using my antique Empires. 
I had an AUDIO TECHNICA 150ANV with the sapphire and MicroLine, very nice but I ended up back to using my antique Empires.

 👍
Yes generally the better the stylus the better the sound for a particular model. But Ive come to the conclusion that a cartridge with just a mediocre aluminum/elliptical can sound impressive.

I can not recall any MM/MI with plain elliptical/aluminum that sound better than what you call " fancier ones". A fair comparison is when you use same generator, but different styli on it. For example the Victor X-1II (Shibata on Beryllium) is better than Victor X-1IIe (Elliptical on Titanium). Any Grace F9 will be beaten by F14 or LEVEL II with "fancier" stylus/cantilever. But even the same F14 with mediorce cantilever can’t be better than advanced cantilever added to the same cartridge body. When you exchange the stylus replacement on one particular cartridge the difference is obvious. When you comparing AT to Empire is not the same comparison to judge about the subject, just completely different cartridges.

The same subject: When people re-cantilever their MC, for example DL-103 with Ruby / LineContact is always much better than stock Alluminum / Conical for some reason. But when someone refurbishing a state-of-the-arm MC from world famous cartridge designer whey could go wrong if their vendor using third-party parts, but this is a disadvantages of MC (imo). 

Dear @travbrow : You are rigth in that critical cartridge subject. In the past J.Carr posted that cantilever is more important that stylus ( not that stylus is not important because in a cartridge all is important, its quality level performance is the sum of its parts and quality excecution level to build it. ).

From some years now I ( shoted/shout ) here and everywhere that the main and true difference comes from the CARTRIDGE MOTOR , unfortunatelly people just don’t " hear " or are not willing to " learn " or are deaf about that fact.

It’s not only that really old/vintage ADC 26/27 but almost all top vintage MM/LOMC cartridges and I have over 80 experiences on that specific regards when I retipped/rettip all those cartridges.
Always the rettiped cartridges performed/performs way better than in original status. I already said it: from some time I always ask the seller to ship the cartridge I bought from him not to my place but to a re-tiper directly. I did this after check with my first bougths the sound of some cartridges and comparing when return to me retipped.

My last experiences/facts of the cartridge motor was 10 days ago:

can anyone remember that in this thread I posted about the Nagatron 9600 cartridge? any one owned?

Anyway, I was lucky enough to found out through Garage A Records but with out original cantilever/stilus and that people there had it with a true " frankestein " mode: they took a replacement stylus from a cartridge made it by Nagatronics but not marketed by Nagatron. They took of/out the all the replacement holder body and left only the cantilever/stylus and the stem/rod where the cantilever is atacched and is that stem that goes/male inside the the 9600 hole.

Well, that truly inferior ( in paper ) modification: the 0riginal 9600 was boron and line contact with really low tip mass ( btw, is MI with a low 2mv output. ) when the one attached is aluminum with elliptical 0.4 x 0.7 and VTF of 2.25gr. against 1.2gr in the 9600 original.
So to really different cantilever/stylus.

I bougth from them two other inferior replacements and after listen in my system ( I posted my experiences with in this thread. ) I decided to send the 9600 with one of the replacements to my favorite re-tiper and the 9600 come back with boron cantilever and vDh stylus.

Well a few days ago I gave a listen to the 9600 with that " inferior " cantilever/stylus and I was shocked ( like with the 26/27 ) because even with that stylus/cantilever combination I could listen in the HF range a definition/transparency/clarity that even top LOMC or other vintage MM ( not all. ) can’t do it ! ! !

How that frankeistein 9600 can performs it that way with that stylus shape? , yes: only because the very high quality CARTRIDGE MOTOR DESIGN, its resolution level over those LP recording modulations that the stylus tip/cantilever pick-up.

 Remember that the cartridge is a transducer and has to convert those modulations in an electrical signal: resolution levels makes the differences and that resolution belongs mainly in that cartridge motor.
 
Why the Kleos performs better than the Titan when almost is the same ( cantilever/stylus/body )? because JC made serious changes in the cartridge MOTOR that he does it with the Etna/Atlas that came from the same design motor type than the Kleos. But there are several examples of that in other today cartridge models inside its whole catalog.

That’s why the vintage works so good: because the quality CARTRIDGE MOTOR DESIGN. Obviously that those " motors " with better cantilever/stylus performs a little better but the ONE is that cartridge motor, is what really makes the difference.

What makes a difference between a Mercedes 350 and an Audi A8? basically the MOTOR.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.
Dear friends: These latest experiences with the Nagatron 9600 not only confirms the main importance of cartridge motor quality design but that even that 0.4 x 0.7 elliptical " inferior " stylus shape is abble to pick up the grooves information almost as good as today  " fancy " stylus shapes/cantilevers.

It's perfect match to my 9600? certainly not the one boron/vDh combination is better overall but not better onthat HF range.

Like a two and a half year ago I had one similar experiences with my Lyra Clavis DC that after listened it with its original cantilever/stylus I decided to change it for boron/line contact.

What experienced I with?: a whole true ( not different only. )  up grade, a lot better quality performance levels on each frequency range.

Time latter I put on sale and sold it ( I'm not a seller but with so many cartridges time to time cartridges " needs " to go to a better place where can play instead to stays in its box. Btw, if some is interested I will put on true " closing sale/bargain sale " some of them. Just let me know/contact me. ) and the buyer was really exited with what he listened ( he is a Lyra advocated audiophile for years. ) and told me that he never listened the DC so good as the sample I shipped to him.

Unfortunatelly the happiness gone in a few days because the suspension collapsed due to a bad retipper work.

We could think that what makes the difference was mainly the boron/line contact retip but in reality was that Clavis DC motor because the Clavis came with fancy stylus shape too.

R.
Post removed 
@bimasta

Some truly great carts had aluminum/elliptical. They have a special quality, as Raul points out, and it must be the motor. It is the "heart" of the cart. As Raul discovered "that truly inferior (on paper) stylus" sounded "right".

I would be happy to get rid of all MM cartridges with elliptical stylus, alluminum cantilevers and inferior specs on paper, but i would NEVER say on public forum that they are better than MM cartridges with the best cantilevers and best styli, because it’s not true. As i said i’ve tried different original styli on the same cartridge signal generator (motor).


Put a better stylus on a good heart and it will probably benefit.

This is exactly what i’m trying to say, what if the MM "motor" is already superb, best, top of the line etc? For example: the Grace F-14 LC-OFC is already superb MM generator, you can use inferior RS-9e stylus (Aluminum/Elliptical) on this motor ... or you can use a high-end RS-14 BR/MR stylus (Hollow Pipe Boron with MicroRidge diamond). It would be so stupid to say that RS-9e is better than RS-14BR/MR for whatever reason. The difference is huge and everyone can hear it immediately. The difference in price is also huge i must say, but well worth it. Grace gave a customer so many option to upgrade the stylus replacement, they made all kind of styli and all kind of cantilevers (Boron, Beryllium, Ruby, Sapphire, Ceramic...) in the 80’s for their best models such as F14 and LEVEL II.


But I won’t retip just for that — I got most of my vintage carts NIB NOS and they have many prime hours left; I love them, and I’ll retip when they need it, in a year or three.


No comments

Chakster, the point is, certain cartridges with the aluminum/elliptical can outperform others that sport a higher end stylus. Nobody said you should use your cheap stylus if you have a better on. I’m happy for you Since you already own the best. For me I like to find cheaper alternatives that put some expensive cartridges to shame. These are mostly vintage and no longer made. 

  Empire 2000Z for example, hasn’t been mentioned till recently on this thread but I’ve read about people’s experience with it on other forums. Since the original stylus is cheap and still available, at the moment, it could be an opportunity for some to own a high performance cartridge without a lot of expense, or try a new cartridge for cheap price.


If the assumptions (premises) are not true than the conclusions

also can't be true.

''Aluminum cantilever'' is mostly aluminum alloy cantilever. Usually

with magnesium. Behind boron, sapphire , titanium or beryllium

cantilevers by MC carts there is the so called ''joint pipe'' IN

which the cantilever is glued and ON which the coils are fastened.

This joint pipe is an aluminum pipe.

Changing cantilevers by MM kinds is done either by gluing new

cantilever/stylus combo OVER the restant of the old cantilever

or gluing new cantilever IN the restant of the old cantilever. The

later will be done by boron(rod) cantilevers and other ''exotic

kinds''. But one can choose what is available and what is available

depends from cantilever producers. No (?) cart producer make

his own cantilever/stylus combos. All depend from their suppliers. 




Chakster, the point is, certain cartridges with the aluminum/elliptical can outperform others that sport a higher end stylus. Nobody said you should use your cheap stylus if you have a better on. I’m happy for you Since you already own the best. For me I like to find cheaper alternatives that put some expensive cartridges to shame. These are mostly vintage and no longer made.

I'm also glad you like your Empire cartridges, but i am talking not about specific cartridges, but about all vintage MM cartridges.

The disadvantages of the Elliptical profile is very short life-span, so if you can't buy a decent profile you will have to find an alternative when your Elliptical is expired after 500hrs. With better profiles like MicroRidge you can use your MM cartridge for 1500 hrs, practically this is much better solution to invest more in such styli (in my opinion). The life-span is 3 times longer. It is also much better to secure yourself when buyin' used, because used elliptical is most likely expired (worn or very close to be worn). 

@nandric 


Changing cantilevers by MM kinds is done either by gluing new

cantilever/stylus combo OVER the restant of the old cantilever

or gluing new cantilever IN the restant of the old cantilever.


You know i don't retip MM cartridges, i've tried some refurbished and it's a bad idea, the vendors do exactly what you described when they are replacing a cantilevers. 


But i like ONLY fully original MM cartridges with Boron, Beryllium, Ruby, Sapphire cantilevers, those cantilevers are one piece, there is no collar (joint pipe etc). Also i have no intention to send my best MM cartridges to any vendors, i will never retip or refurbish them. I will definitely buy another working MM cartridge if i can't afind another NOS MM stylus (the original one). Luckily i've bought some NOS styli for my rarest MM cartridges and i am happy about it.  



Dear @travbrow  : "  certain cartridges with the aluminum/elliptical can outperform others that sport a higher end stylus..."

of course. As I said it: first the cartridge motor and then cantilever and stylus. 
Things " there " will performs as good the quality excecution to those parts design.

Not all boron or aluminum or sapphire cantilevers are made it exactly with similar shape or length and obviously that comes attached to the cartridge with way different kind of suspension parts. Not all cantilever/stylus/suspension comes with the exactly same compliance not even in the same cartridge series, always exist small differences in between.
But not only those: not all stylus are made it the same, someone comes with double polished work or even with special treatments unknow for any one of us.

Stylus life?, it does not depends of stylus shape, no way about. Btw, Ortofon in deep research studies said that for a good quality performance the stylus " life " for us must be around 1K hours because more hours makes more recording damages and lower quality performance levels on what we are listening. 
We have to remember that the stylus tip concentrated all the " fierce "/fury of grooves modulations and friction at a very very tiny stylus tip surface. The stylus tip during playback is really burning/on fire and I mean it.

I don't know if you or any one else remember that last year thread when an agoner/audiophile started to have some kind of " noises " in his audio system with his Atlas cartridge ( as the Atlas all his system top quality. ) and he ask for advises about. Everyone gave his opinions and he try it every advise with out success and he said that the M.fremer sample was over 1K hours and that his Atlas had around 1.5K hours.


Well I posted there that the problem was in the stylus tip due to that high number of playing hours but he declined about because he thougth was impossible that the problem source was the stylus tip and at the end of all his efforts and other agoner ones the culprit was as I told him: the stylus tip in bad condition ! ! and we were talking there of the top of the top Lyra designs. ! ! ! ? ? 

People need to learn, this is the third time I post the same experience with that Atlas, third time go figure ! ! and still we can't learn and how do you name some people that can't learn ?  yes that's the rigth word.
Unfortunatelly the world is full of that kind of people.


Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.
 

SoundSmith provided a lot of information about stylus shape for those who would like to learn a bit about this subject. In the end of his article SoundSmith added infro from the JICO, but "figures provided by Jico can at least be doubled, and in some cases quadrupled!"

However anyone can see than a life-span of the Elliptical is much shorter than MicroRidge or even Shibata, no doubt about it. Vintage cartridge with elliptical tip is BAD IDEA if the replacement styli not available. The life-span of elliptical is too short. You are free to mess around with your elliptical styli, but your cartridge will die much faster than any advanced styli such as Shibata, MicroLine, MicroRidge, Gyger, VdH, Paroc, Vital etc ... that will serve us 3 times longer! If you’re buyin pre-owned vintage cartridge with elliptical tip than your risk is much higher. That’s it. Absolutely no matter how good is your "motor" (aka signal generator).  

see below:

"Wear, Tear and Life

So we know that the more extreme line contacts reduce wear.... but what is the difference?

Apparently according to Jico (manufacturer of the highly regarded SAS stylus), the amount of playing time where a stylus will maintain its specified level of distortion at 15kHz is as follows:

  • Spherical / Conical - 150hrs
  • Elliptical - 250hrs
  • Shibata/Line contact - 400hrs
  • SAS/MicroRidge - 500hrs

This is not to say that at 500 hrs a SAS stylus is "worn out" - but at that stage the wear has reached the point where distortion at 15kHz surpasses the level specified by Jico for a new stylus. (Which I believe is 3%).

Some manufacturers have traditionally defined a stylus as being "worn out" when it starts to damage the record... in these terms the figures provided by Jico can at least be doubled, and in some cases quadrupled."

Chakster, Jico just wants to sell lots of needles. Also not all elliptical tips are the same, the smallest .02 radius types should outlast a bigger one plus trace the innermost grooves more accurately and without noticeable inner groove distortion. 
It’s all in the article, there are info about different elliptical profiles, but the MicroRidge, Gyger and Shibata are always better and will serve us 2-3 times longer with less record wear than any Elliptical.

Actually any modern cartridge manufacturer would like to sell you very expensive cartridge, then very expensive service, this is business.

When i buy a VINTAGE cartridge i want to have the best possible profile to make sure i have a cartridge with the longest life-span of the stylus tip. Because the original styli for vintage cartridges are not easy to find (or almost impossible for some models).

This is a rational explanation in my opinion. The message from another user has NO rational explanation, why shall we use inferiour styli ? I have no idea why.

I’ve heard a transformation of inferior cartridge to a high-end cartridge, the only different was just the stylus/cantilever. For axample Glanz 31L with square shank LineContact stylus on Aluminum cantilever can not come even close to the Gralz 61 with Boron cantilever and square shank Paroc stylus. It’s day and night difference in sound. The Moving Flux generator is the same! I already mentioned the situation with Grace cartridges.

Put a different (original) cantilever/styli replacement on the same MM generator and you will be blown away! This is how it works in my experience, not the other way around, never.

I have no beef with people who don’t want to upgrade, but when someone is telling me that an elliptical tip on vintage cartridge is good idea i’m free to disagree.


Just an update of the stylus for Empire 2000Z sold at lpgear. It’s not a real original, it’s a Japanese made copy. 
I think the s2000z Thakker sells is the real thing, and will confirm when I receive it. 
The LP gear selling a lot of replicas and also privides little info, many of their styli are blank without original cogo. I wouldn't buy anything from them, just sayin' 

A good vintage MM carts must have an original (genuine) stylus or it doesn't make sense at all (except for jico s.a.s. alternative replacement for a few models)