Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
Ag insider logo xs@2xrauliruegas
I have a few broken MM cartridges and i wonder is it worth to rebuild them, both needs a new cantilevers. In stock condition they are superb cartridges, i still have 3 working samples in excellent condition. But i don’t know what to do with broken samples :(

Talking about AT-ML150 with rare ATN170ML replacement stylus (broken cantilever) and mega rare AT-ML180 with genuine ANT180ML replacement stylus (broken cantilever). Only a little part of the original cantilever left inside (about 2-3mil). The original cantilever is Hollow Gold Plated Boron and the original stylus tip mass is extremely low (0,08mm for AT-ML180 // 0,1mm for AT-ML170 ).

Has anyone tried to rebuild those cartridges? I think it must be Boron cantilever and Van Den Hul tip of the lowest mass to be close to the original. 

But no one has made any of these hollow boron cantilevers since the 80's.

What would you do?

Hi chakster, the retips with boron cantilever and whatever stylus

cost about $500. Your best option is to do surgery by yourself.

The most of AT styli are fastened with a small crew on the inner

side. If you buy suitable donors with the right cantilever stylus

combo you can remove them from their stylus holder and put in

the holder with the missing cantilever. But you need to first study

the kinds of the styli holders then experiment with cheap samples

and then try the real thing. Because you like beryllium cantilevers

you should try to get those as donors.

@nandric You’re right, it’s good idea to became a retipper in the end of the day. A.J. Van Den Hul turning 80 this year! Just checked this interview with him. My Dutch instagram friend told me the price is 500 euro to rebuild with Van Den Hul throught his dealer. It is only make sense if the final product can surpass the original.

There is indeed a tiny screw covered by a drop of white glue or paint on the inner side of the ATN170ML stylus replacement assembly.

I remember someone told me the Audio-Technica in Japan can do the job, not sure if they can do anything with this particual model (discontinued long time ago), but they must provide re-tipping service for their clients? So maybe rebuild with original specs (or close to the original) is possible. 

Chakster, The first (philosophical) premise  of our hobby is:

''it depends'' . Despite  the abundance of the so called ''supply''

there is a shortage of the styli we need . The retippers get rich

by asking 500 euro for a simple job of gluing a new cantilever/

stylus combo on the restant of the old cantilever. Andreoli who

learned the ''art'' by those Aussie brothers declared to be able to

do this job in 5 minutes time. I am not sure if I made Axel rich

but the fact is that he could afford retirement(grin).

So all we need are those small screwdrivers which look like surgical

instruments. Then we need donors which are more abundant than

those in the real life. AT made two kinds of those ''styli holders''

as well one simple stylus / suspension construction such that

all of us who are not in possesion of two left hands can do the

surgery. BTW ''the white dot'' is paint and need to be removed

such that the screw which holds the cantiever can be losened

in order to remove the old- and put the new cantilever instead.

@halcro I just want to tip my hat to all the suggestions in this thread. I picked up a NOS Victor Z1 and have it mounted on a 4point. In a word: incredible. A truly eye opening experience. AND that's without the NEO-SAS stylus that is yet to arrive. As is it's easily doing more for me than the many $2-4000 MC cartridges I've used on the same setup. I'm not prepared to draw any definitive conclusions about vintage MM vs new MC cartridges, but in this case, for a few hundred bucks, it's a little bit sickening to think of how much I've spent for so much less music. So thank you all! 
@jtnicolosi you will be surprised by X1-II if you will come across this model with original nude shibata needle. Welcome to JVC fan club
Glad you have seen the light JT, and I'm so pleased you find the Victor Z1 to your liking...😎
When the Neo-SAS arrives, please update us with your thoughts on the comparison....
Your's is valuable feedback for all the 'lurkers' of this Thread.

Regards
Thank you Raul for your time and effort put into this very intriguing post.
Thanks for your advice Halcro, it worked out well! I'll post an update after I spend some time with the SAS, due to arrive any day now. 

Friends, The Clearaudio Charisma MM, better than Virtuoso, Maestro?  Diamond encrusted Boron Cantelever is the same as Goldfinger.  Leave it to Clearaudio to outdo themselves.

Newest Tonabnehmer-Systemen from Clearaudio:

http://clearaudio.de/en/products/cartridges-mm-v2.php

Possibly my new defacto standard.  I value your opine.


Clearaudio Charisma V2.  Here is the first full review I have seen:

http://clearaudio.de/_assets/_pdf/reviews/cartridges/charisma-v2_HiFi_Stars_34_en.pdf

@tubed1 if i remember correct the ClearAudio use Audio-Technica generator in their expensive cartridges. It's been said here earlier. 

As for the Boron cantilevers i doubt they are hollow pipe, most likely rod. So in terms of cantilevers those modern (all of them) are inferior to the vintage with hollow pipe boron cantilevers and ultra low mass tip. Correct me if i'm wrong. 

chakster, I also noticed that all (?) new boron cantilevers are

rods. The only way to glue them to the so called ''joint pipe''

is to use an aluminum tube in which the boron rod is glued.

So while we pretend to have boron cantilevers we actualy have

aluminum/boron combo. One can easely see this aluminum

tube behind the boron ''rod''. I assume that ''your'' vintage

hollow pipe boron can be directly glued to the joint pipe?

@nandric I can illustrate your words easily. This is a picture of my broken AT-ML170 / ATN170ML stylus recplacement. The rest of the gold plated hollow pipe material is the actual cantilever, not the collar of the cantilever, but the cantilever itself. Here is another picture of the working original cantilever. BTW i got very quick reply from Expert Stylus regarding this AT-ML170 cartridge. I was surpriced that Expert Stylus have 48 years experience in manufacturing components, including a range of cantilevers and diamonds (so maybe Don was right about Stereohedron made by Expert Stylus) ! They got over 2500 cartridges serviced every year! It really isn’t a matter of removing a cantilever and fitting a new one. The mass of the cantilever and diamond must be taken into consideration as otherwise the whole dynamics of the cartridge will be impaired. Every cartridge made is built with components of a mass ensuring optimal results, and unless those attempting repair work have the background and laboratory facilities to ensure this, then they should not be considered. The Expert Stylus company manufacture cantilevers in aluminium, boron and sapphire. Their Paratrace profile diamond is possibly the most advanced diamond produced today. This mega rare Audio-Technica AT-ML170 from the 80’s can be refurbished anytime by Expert Stylus in UK for about £290 in 3/4 weeks from receipt of confirmation. It’s quick compared to others. The exchange rate of £ to € is so low at the moment, i think this is the best option. But i will not do that, i decided to sell this cartridge :)

P.S. I saw the alluminum tube ("joint pipe" you are talking about) used as a collar for solid boron rod cantilevers used by Axel, it was Nagaoka made cantilevers with glued stylus tip (he told me once). So when Axel refurbished my Technics 100c mk3, many years ago, he actually installed aluminum collar with boron rod cantilever (glued to that joint pipe). On the original Technics Boron Hollow Pipe Cantilever there is no collar (or joint pipe). I don’t have a cpiture of the EPC 100c mk3, but i do have a picture of the EPC-205c mk4 refurbished by Axel, glued stylus tip and the alluminum collar around the new nagaoka Boron Rod cantilever is visible here.

For example this how the best method of mounting nude diamond throught the cantilever without big amount of glue. This is a picture of my Victor X1-IIE Titanium Hollow Pipe cantilever and nude elliptical stylus: https://scontent-ams3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14089073_1335742766443887_8672099957543576034_n.jpg?oh...

The old method is definitely better, but modern designers must glue the stylus tip, because the cantilever is solid rod, not the hollow pipe. I hadrly imagine someone can make a tiny hole in the solid rod cantilever, but it was possible with superior vintage hollow pipe cantilevers in the 70s/80s.  

chakster, because Axel retired I wanted to try the ''Expert stylus''

about whom I was informed by my ''brother Don''. According to

him Expert stylus made those Stereohedron styli. I had no idea

that they also produce styli. But they have their own ''procedure''.

One need to first reserve his ''turn'' and wait till he get permission

to post his cart to them. The cart is inspected and , depending from

their finding, advice is provaided about what can be done. I got

one of those remarcable Nakamichi MC 1000 with beryllium

cantilever and broken stylus for cheap and asked for their Paratrace

stylus. To my big surprise I got the Paratrace beautifuly glued

in the cantilever for only 180 GBP. This price include their postage

back as well the inspection.

But now something ''totally different'' as those English comics are

used to say. I sold my AT 180 and 170 but still own two 160.

I think but am not sure that the same cantilever is used for all

3 kinds? The gold on the cantilever suggest this. Am I right?

Right, cantilevers of the AT-ML180 and AT-ML170 are Gold Plated Boron, the AT-ML150 is Beryllium, but the AT-ML140 is alluminum. I’ve never seen AT-ML160 and this number is missing the the catalog, very rare model.

Generators of the AT-ML180 is way different from any other models, the rest are the same and only stylus replacement make difference in sound. But OFC and OCC versions of generators are slightly different in sound too.

I have two perfectly working AT-ML170 and one AT-ML180 now (my favorite cartridges).

Dear chakster, While I am talking about ''apples'' you are talking

about ''apples and pears'' . As if I own just one kid and you a

twin (grin). I am obssesed with MC carts you with both kinds.

But the cantilever/stylus combo's in both are like ''apples and

pears''. There is no way anybody among us can change the stylus

in his MC carts while anybody can change the stylus in his MM

cart. Provided those styli are available. Well regarding the retips of

both kind we differ radicaly from each other. I retiped just one of

my MM carts by Axel. When inspecting his work I dicovred that

he simpy glued a new cantilever/stylus combo on the ''restant''

of the old cantilever. The difference between both kinds is the

''inside construction'' such that all MC kinds are like twins while

by the MM carts there are many ways to ''skin the cat''. There are

MM kinds with so colled ''tension wire'' which in my opinion are

irreparable. AT cantilever/styli combos have specific complience

construction which looks like '' tension wire'' but is not. There is

a kind of ''elastic wire'' inside the tube which is fastened with

a small screw in the stylus holder ( which crew is ''coverd with

white paint''). As I described elsewhere by losening of this screw

the whole cantilever can be removed from the tube a new one

put instead and fastened with the mentioned screw . I am sure

that the cantilever in my AT 160 can be easily ''transplanted''

to your AT 180 or 170. But I don't believe that Expert Stylus can

fix your carts except if you only need new cantilever/stylus combo

which can be glued on the restant of your old cantilever. Like

by MM carts with tension wire the suspension by AT kinds can't

be fixed.

You ATN160ML replacement stylus assembly can be "transparent" to my AT-ML170 without surgery, it is MM replacement, lol.

The problem is that replacement stylus for those models is impossible to find without cartridge, especially for the price that is lower than used cartridge+stylus! A man with stylus replacement and a man with cartridge generator can meet in the "ideal world", but in reality the generators are easy to find, but the working stylus replacements are impossible to find for this particular model. The plastic frame with working suspension designed for hollow pipe boron cantilever to fit the AT-ML170 is also not easy to find. So i decided to sell this combo to someone who can refurbish it with Expert Stylus, SoundSmith or any other service. Or for those who can do that with a donor stylus following your advice.

However, it's interesting case. What to do with vintage MM cartridge if the cantilever is broken. 
Refurbish it to try a hybrid or to sell it, or to keep looking for the original replacement.
 



Dear chakster, The problem is that one is never sufficiently plain.

I should add as argument by my single MM retip that to it make

no sense to retip an MM cart which cost (me) 100 euro for 250

euro. I try not to make the same mistake twice. This explains

why I never retipped a second MM cart (grin).My statement that

anybody can change the stylus in an MM cart does not apply in

your case. The problem is not the stylus/cantilever but the stylus

protector on which the AT kind is marked (grin). I don't believe that

you will get ''the right price'' for your 180 with 160 stylus on its

''nose''. But if you own the stylus protector for your 180 you will

need to ''tansplant'' at least the stylus protector. BTW I have seen

you listings on eBay and was shocked. I had the illusion that MM

carts are much cheaper then the MC kind. You with your prices

changed the state of affairs. Are those prices for the carts without

styli? (grin).

Well, first the AT-ML180 is not compatible with any other styli in AT-ML series, because the generator of the AT-180 is different ellectrically from all others! For this TOTL cartridge stylus replacement must be ATN180, not the lower models. I’m fine with my working AT-ML180.

Ebay is evil, along with paypal they charge at least 16% fees from the sellers, but it’s vary (they even charge vat from their fee now at the end), depends from which country you got the payment etc. In my opinion this is extremely high fee for private sellers, also as the seller everyone should accept return for full refund including shipping both way if the buyer is not happy. It’s hard to imagine any rare items for cheap on ebay, because seller must count the loss (fees). I hate ebay for this reason, the uk audio mart allow us to set lower prices and listing is fee. I can not say any good about audiogon as they charge high listing fee for unsold items.
As for the prices you have to check statistics, look for foxtan prices for example, they are much higher and he’s a cheater (see feedbacks), he sold me refurbished cartridges as the originals. Well, top MM cartridges are not cheap anymore, because they are great performers and people should face it. It is not a $100 price tag anymore (like it was 10-15 years ago), but for the best vintage carts it’s more like $350-750 and for some highly collectible rare NOS vintage MM carts it’s over $1000 typically. But i must admit that the best vintage MC are still twice as much in price! Just look at the used FR-7f or Denon S1 in the bay. Well still cheaper than new $4500 ZYX

I should add as argument by my single MM retip that to it make

no sense to retip an MM cart which cost (me) 100 euro for 250

euro.

When people retipping MC cartridges they do spend the same amount of money to buy broken one and then the same amount to get it retipped or refurbished. What’s the difference in logic? What about those guys who always refurbishing their cheap Dl-103?

Of course top and rare MM deserve refurbishing if the total amount is lower than the market price of the rare cartridge (which is normally over 700 for best models). In the beggining of this thread, many year ago, everyone was so enthusiastic about Axel’s retip or so called "refresh" of whatever cartridge (even those technics, remember). And replacement styli for rare models cost as much as the cartridge if they turns up for sale, but they never will. There are trade off with refurbishing, but some people love the result.

Today we have JICO SAS Sapphire at $260 and higher. But SoundSmith Ruby with Contact Line cost the same $250. And we have more options from Expert Stylus, Van Den Hull for higher price. Why do you think it must be applied for MC carts only if we have some great MMs ? 

Dear chakster, I can't remember when I  bought an MM cart last

time. I am only interested in MC kinds. Since the so clleed ''debt

crisis'' it become very difficultt to sell our stuff. So we need to be

inventive. As you stated eBay and PayPal are very expensive.

So one should avoid both but their rules seem to be different in

different countries. I list my carts on the (small) Dutch market

(Marktplaats.nl) and the (big) German market on their site

''audio-markt.de''.

I write all my listings in English because the American site

''sharphifi'' publish all second hand offerings of the Western

World. The Dutch market is for free , the German ''audio-markt''

charges 4 euro per item. I don't use any eBay to sell my items.

Their fees in Europe are 8% . But I do use PayPal for money

transfer since they introduced the new category of payment.

Anyway in Europe. The category is called ''transfer to friends

and family'' by which the fees are very low. I use PayPal

because of their ''protection'' . The money of the buyer is

 blocked for 21 days and function as ''protection'' in the sense

 that one can get his own money back if the seller is not

trustworthy or never posted the sold item. The procedure is

boring but losing money is much more worst. I have no idea

 about your Russian payment possibilities but am sure that you

 can list your stuff on the mentioned Dutch as well German site.

 In addition you get advertising for free by ''sharphifi''. I sold more

items to the foreigners then Dutchman via this Dutch site thanks

 to ''sharphifi''.

 

Thanks, i'm not a pro seller, but when i need funds for new finds i have to sell some stuff, i will try those Dutch and German sources. Paypal is ok, but i'm talking about ebay listing/sales fee they charge for sold items in the end of the month, i was shocked but they charge fee even from the shipping price! So this company sucks. The overall sales fee on ebay is 10%, but along with additional 5-6% paypal payment fee it's about 16% in total in my area at the moment. So ebay is ok for the buyer with paypal buyers protection, but for the sellers is not good with such a high fees. However, to make sure it sells the description must be very accutare to avoid buyer claim, i have to underrate my grading on ebay, so the buyer will get the item in slightly better condition than advertized (not the vise versa). The source i can recommend for averyone is UK Audio Mart or US Audio Mart (free listing), my ads there is under the same nickname as here.  
Well, i want to get back the the MC vs. MM subject, but let's talk about HIGH OUTPUT MC.

Those carts does not require step-up/headamp devices and they are flexible with loading. Some of them works with MM phono stage at 47k. They can also works fine with MC (100ohm - 1000ohm) inputs, diffrerent loading is also possible.  

I really like some of the Hight Output MC cartridges in my system. 
Dynavector DV-30A, Argent MC500H and 500HS just to name a few.

I do not see/hear disadvantages of the High Output (HOMC) compared to the Low Output (LOMC).

And my farovite HOMC are superior compared to many top MM cartridges.

Anybody else are experienced with some decent vintage HOMC carts? It would be nice to read opinions.    


Dear chakster, I thought that you ar the fastest learning novice in

our forum. The best student Prof. Raul ever had. That is to say

with the highest ''learning curve'' among his students. The problem

however is that he hardly ever mentioned MC carts and their

peculiarities. Why do you think that nearly all Ikeda's carts have

lesser ouput then0,2 mV. Why are the most LOMC's called so?

Well the less wire is used for the coils the less is the moving mass

of the ''moving parts'' by an MC. More wire mean higher impedance

and higher moving mass. Those HOMC are made for people with

MM phono-pres and/or tube lovers. Except of course our Lew who

can even ''drive'' (my former) Ortofon MC 2000 in his extraordinary

tube phono-pre. But we, the others, are ordinary humans, not able

to solder two simple risisitors while he can improve electrostatics,

amplifiers, phono-pres , TT plinths and even Italian sport cars.

If I was an microbe I would fear him as the death. Not because

of his electronic capabilities but because of his real profession.

Anyway I can't help you with HOMC's because I never considered

this (inferior) kind (grin).


Chakster, If you want to debate the issue, I will take the opposing view.  I have owned Sumiko Blue Point, Benz Glider (two versions), and Transfiguration Esprit. All in the HOMC category.  I found none of these cartridges to be musically satisfying.  They all sounded a bit "synthetic" or mechanical to me. As a result of my prior experience with HOMC, I will always choose the LO version, if an MC cartridge is made in LO and HO versions.  In my hierarchy, LOMC, MM, and MI types will always supersede HOMC types.  I am sure you would say that my problem is I have not heard the HOMCs that you prefer.
@nandric thanks for your compliments
I am tube lover, but my phono stages are free of tubes
In theory i’m aware of the advantages of the LOmc over the HOmc. when it comes to moving coil cartridges. In reality my favorite HOMC (particualy the low compliance Argent MC with sapphire cantilever) are as good as the LOMC to my ears, i hope your beloved FR-7f and Raul’s favorite MC2000 will show me the advantages of the LOMC over the HOMC. For those carts i just scored LUXMAN AD8000 SUT base with 8030 low impedance (3 ohm, 1:30 ), silver coil on toroidal core step up transformer. We will see if i can hear my two Ikeda’s (FR) carts even better soon.

But i’m more concerned about HOMC versus MM, i find my 3 HOMC very enjoyable compared to the best MMs (which i like too) @lewm

There must be very good HOMC design among the vintage cartridges, they were quite popular.

Dear chakster, You are an novice while I am member of this forum

since 2007. Back then my German was much better than my English

so I become also member of the so called ''German group'' (alias

''German mafia'' according to Raul). This group consisted of

Dertonarm, Syntax and Thuchan. Those were the persons whom

I consulted about my stuff. Three radical different persons :

Dertonarm the genius, Thuchan ''the nice guy'' and Syntax the

real follower of Kant's ''absolute truth'' but in the sense that for

him his opinions were absolute truths. Lew used the expression

''acerbic'' to describe Syntax but I needed to check  my English

vocabulary because I have never heard this word before. Our

Lew's eloquence is inaccessible so no wonder I wanted him as

my English teacher. Well Dertonarm advised me back then to

use a SUT in combo with one of those FR-7 kinds. He sweared

by FR-66 s and , I think, FR-7 fz. But his ''theory'' was that an

LOMC and SUT are two sides of the same coin. That is to say

that both should be as ''made for each other'' qua impedance and

inductance. Despite my ''endless'' admiration I deed no followed

his advice. My reason based on his theory was that I would

need at least 10 SUT's for my collection. With those MC's I was

on my own. I bought all carts ''of the month'' which Raul

recommended because I trusted his ears much more then his

''theories''. But when I bought my first FR-7 a changed my

''religion''. So I first try two FR SUT's and then discovered

Denon AU-S1 which covers 2-40 Ohms carts. Ergo: one

SUT for all my MC carts. I like Dover but also my Denon.

As Aritstotels said about his friend Plato: ''I like Plato but

the truth even more''.


 

I read this forum since i registered in 2010, i'm curious to try my new Luxman 8020 sut with low impedance and very low output MC carts only, for the rest of the MC cartridges with slightly higher output i have headamp, and two different MC phono stages that can handle carts with 0,2mV with ease. But for the cartridges with output lover than 0,2mV (impedance of 1,5 - 3,5 Ohm) i would like to try Luxman AD800 base with 8020 sut. I hope you can google translate it, but the guy said: "I got the feeling that the sound of 8020 SUT makes famous M.A. COTTER MC transformer a little soft." I think you own Cotter trans, Nandrik? Yes, i'm aware about your Denon SUT all-rounder. This Luxman comes with 3 different plug-in toroidal silver SUTs, i have only one on mine (maybe i will find 2 others later if i ever need them). 

Dear chakster, I checked your Luxman and assume that ''sale

pending'' apply to you (grin). Since Kondo san we all believe

in (old Italian) silver merely because we assume that ''the higher

the price the better the object of our disire''. While I don't believe in

''silver wonder'' I was well looking for the FR- silver kind. Impressing

our friends is also important. I was  not able to find the silver FR so

 I bought first the FR- TRX 4 and then XF-1 (low impedance). I

switched to Denon when I discovered his, uh, ''impedance range''.

Considering the price of the silver FR  I think you got a bargain with

 your Luxman. Considring Kondo san (silver) prices you are an

Lucky bast...

My situation is curious in the sense that I own two of those AU-S1.

The seller of my Allaerts persisted on buying both together. So

I own next to my used AU-S1 also a brand new one. Those

are still in production and can be bought by ''lpgear'' for a price

which my modesty does not allow to mention(grin).

So, in some sence, I am in the same situation as with my MM

carts. So much efforts to get them and now even more effort

is needed to get rid of them .

Nandric, "Acerbic" means "No Serbs" or "Without Serbs", obviously.
I am glad that I lined up with Dertonearm in thinking that possibly the MC2000 might benefit synergistically (means 1+1=3) from being matched with its dedicated SUT, the T2000.  I'd like to try it (even though I do not need it) but the SUT is as hard to find as is the cartridge.

I think the genius of the MC2000 is its rather high compliance for an MC.  If there is any way in which I think MM and MI cartridges outperform MCs consistently, it is with piano music.  The MC2000 does very well with piano, compared to others, possibly owing to its compliance.
Dear @chakster : I owned a beauty item by Luxman and was the C 5000A. Champaigne color with wood top/below/sides wood, just a beautiful audio item.

Things are that the " baby " came with both SUT's: 8020 and 8030 that were connected at the rear plate and very easy to change it depending of the gain we need it.
For what I remember was very good phonolinepreamp that unfortunatelly gone  several years ago.

I can't say how it compares as a SUT against the Cotter MK2 one and is no surprise to me that " the guy " said is better than Cotter. Btw, Cotter SUT has more fame that true, is a good SUT ( almost all are. ) but nothing outstanding.

Here you can see the C 5000A:

http://audio-database.com/LUXMANALPINE-LUXMAN/amp/c-5000a-e.html

http://liquidaudio.com.au/luxman-c-5000a-preamplifier-repair-restoration/


@lewm , the MC 2000 quality level performance is a result of the whole Ortofon care at designed it and its excecution and of course that its very high compliance is reflected in its excellent tracking abilities to pick up almost all the recorded information.

Now, in those old times Ortofon as many other LOMC proponents manufacturers and with their top models almost always manufactured too ( at the same time. ) the SUT to match the cartridge gain with very low noise. That's the way how FR or Audio Technica or Dynavector or Koetsu or Audio Note did it.

In the case of Ortofon the matched SUT was a necessity due to the cartridge so low output level that with out the rigth SUT the noise levels gone to high . One of the first Ortofon SUT's was for the MC 30 cartridge and then followed for the one for the MC 2000 but other that its high gain and that's silver wired has nothing special. We have to remember that LOMC cartridges are non sensitive to impedance loads. Yes, the best way to go with these kind of LOMC cartridges is through a well designed active high gain phonolinepreamp.

I'm not saying that we can't admire the MC 2000 through a good SUT but we are " losting " something " down there.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.




Dear Lew, We both admire Mark Twain so my comment about

your curious explanation of the word ''Acerbic'' is, say, in his

''spirit'': ''The rumour that Lew wants Serbians to disappear is

exaggerated''.

To show how kind Serbians are I will make you this proposition.

But I need some kind of introduction first. Like Ikeda's series

FR 7 MC carts Mori san designed XL series MC carts for Sony.

The aim was to get leading position in production of MC carts.

The XL 88 D with diamond cantilever and stylus made from one

piece of diamond was, back then in the 80 is the most expensive

cart. According to Thuchan who, of course, owns one the XL 88

was more expensive in Germany then Volkswagen.

The rest of the series consisted of 88 with boron, XL 55 Pro,

XL 44 L, etc. The XL 55 Pro was  the most popular while the

XL 44 was hardly known. Except, of course, to Raul who was very

fond of this cart but I can't remember if he compared the 44

with Ortofon MC 2000. The case is that both have similar compliance

but different output: 0.05mV versus 0,4 mV fot the Sony.

Well my proposition is to lend you my Sony XL 44  so you can

check your assertion about the co-relation between compliance

and reproduction of the piano music. If you somehow fell in love

wiht my Sony I am willing to exchange the cart for your Kenwood.



I've a couple XL-44 and an XL-88D, all sealed NOS.   Perhaps some day I'll decide to take the hit and try them. 

jpjones, If you are interested in exchange or in sale of your 88D

let me know. I will be glad to post to you some pictures of my

 MC  collection or the list of my MM collection.

Sure, I’ll take a look, though I’m rather content with my cartridge situation. On the other hand, one never knows...

I’ll surely put one of the XL-44 on my PS-X9 after I refurb it, though that’ll be awhile. I’ve 8 ’tables ahead of it.

I’ve a contact form on my website; you can use that and I’ll reply back so you’ve my e-mail address.
I find that I am now unable to get past page 1 of this thread, which is now about 254 pages long.  Is anyone else having difficulty?  This post is inserted in the box at the bottom of page 1.  I don't know whether it will show up on p. 254 or p. 1.  Thanks for any help, Audiogon.
Raul, Thank you for your response. I know for sure that you have heard the MC2000 "both ways". Therefore I take it seriously that you say the dedicated SUT for it is not a sine qua non. (Nandric will translate; he is a scholar and a lawyer.)

By the way, with all due respect to Syntax, I use the term "acerbic" to indicate his critical comments are generally brief and cut directly to his point with no ambiguity.  For me, this is a compliment.  I note that some synonyms for acerbic, listed on-line, suggest cruelty or meanness; that was not my intended meaning when I used the word "acerbic".

Dear Lew, Vergelius (the Roman ) stated: ''I fear the Greek even

when they bring presents''. I see that you exchanged Greeks for

the Germans while the Serbians may vanish as far as you are

concerned. Even their presents (aka Sony 44) are not welcome.

You prefer to buy Ortofon SUT made for the MC 2000 even before

you got any idea about its price. What happened with American

pragmatism?

Dear @lewm : Yes, that SUT was a necessity in those old times ( not today. ) to have decent phono stage noise levels.

The MC 2000 with the rigth active high gain phonolinepreamp is very hard to beat even for today Ortofon designs. Its very low output impedes that the cartridge been owned by higher audiophiles that's why in a short time Ortofon designed the MC 2000 MK2 with higher output level. I owned too and just does not compare to the 2000, hands down.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.


Post removed 
Dear Nandric, I hope you know that my original definition of "acerbic" was only meant in good fun.  I want all the Serbs I can get, especially based on what happened with the Croates (Croatians?)  Also, there are some good looking female Serbs out there.

I never said I would buy a T2000 at any price; I said I was interested in how it would affect the sound of the MC2000 on the premise that maybe the two products were meant to be used together for best performance of the MC2000.  Raul says no, and I believe him. So now I don't want to buy a T2000.

Now that I already bought the MC2000 from you, you can be honest: Do you think Axel's re-tip preserved the original sound of the MC2000?  I am certainly not complaining; I like it.  Just curious about the "before" vs the "after".  I would even buy another cartridge from you.

Dear Lew, I never asked Axel for a particular retip or stylus kind

because our agreement was that he should use the best parts

available to him. His best back then was fine line pressure fitted

in aluminum/magnesium alloy cantilever. Ask ''our Aussie'' who

got the same cantilever/stylus combo for his FR-7f. Axel's work

was better than Japanese whom Dertonarm used and recommended

to ,uh, Henry. Those combo's are used up and Axel's new champion

is boron/nude Shibata combo. The later are used in my later

retips. But I also own the original MC 2000 which you can get

together with my Sony to try. I thought that you wanted to test

your assertion about the co-relation between compliance and

piano music. This was my reason to offer to you my Sony to

try. I am at present ''loaded'' with new carts so this Sony as well

the Ortofon are collecting dust in my cabinet. So to speak that

is. BTW ''some man prefer blonde'' and those are more abundant

in Holland than Serbia (grin).


Dear @lewm : """  Axel's re-tip preserved the original sound of the MC2000? """, no re-tipper but the original manufacturer can leave in original shape a cartridge so special like the MC 2000.

I owned 3 MC 2000, two originals and one re-tipped by van den Hul and this one sounds different even that this manufacturer has premium parts where a re-tipper just have not access to it.

Regrads and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.

Dear Lew, All cart producers, even Van den Hul, get their styli/

cantilevers combos from their supplier. As far as I know only

Van den Hul also owns an retip service in which the same combo's

are used for retip. Other producer offer exchange for the new carts

or ''refurbishing'' by which a new generator is put instead  the old

one in the same body. My Koetsu Rosewood Signature is

 refurbished this way but for 2000 euro by Koetsu. Ortofon offers

 no retips but well echange as mentioned. Some persons have no

idea what they are talking about but repeat the same ''song '' as

an broken record.


Addition. In order to understand what is involved by an retip one

need to have ''some idea'' about MC cart construction. Easy to

find on internet under ''mc cartridge construction''.

The ''nose'' of the MC cart consist of cantilever/stylus combo

which are glued in the aluminum tube which is part of the movable

construction with coil (armature). It is obvious that the movable parts

need to be as light as possible. One way to do this is by reducing

the number of coil windings with as result the reduction of the

cart output. Less wire means lower output as well lower impedance.

This (movable) part is connected with the so called ''tension wire''

with the back side of the generator. One can see those screws on

the generator which function is to center and adjust the tension

wire. The front side by the armature (aka coils) has an aluminum

tube in which the cantilever is glued. By an retip either the new

cantilever is glued in this tube by removing the old (part) of

the cantilever or an aluminum tube is used to bridge both parts

and glue them together. The only thing the retipper need to care

for is the right (original) lengh of the cantilever. So no some kind

of ''higher art'' is needed  to put the new cantilever/stylus combo

in the mentioned tube. That this work can ''only be done in the

right way'' by the original manufacturer is a myth. Obviously

caused by ignorance regarding the MC construction. BTW the

person in question stated himself that one of his MC 2000 was

retipped by Van den Hul. Why not by Ortofon???

This simple way to retip the cart with cantilever/stylus combo

''explains'' why gluing the stylus in the existing cantilever is

much more difficult.




The original stylus of MC2000 called Symmetrical Contact Line (CLC). The moving system which comprises diamond stylus, cantilever and armature, quite natually has great influence on the cartridge’s performance capability. And it is particularly important that the mass of the system is kept at an absolute minimum. The MeFF value of the ortofon MC2000 is 0,27 mg. Aminimum value. This was achieved simply by finding the optimal cantilever lenght (6,15 mm), and utilizing the correct materials for the moving system: an extremely light and stiff aluminum cantilever of conical shape, diminutive cross-shaped aluminum armature. The legs of the cross are hollow which has allowed for a mass reduction of 66% in relationto traditional armature design. High mechanical stiffness. In addition to the mass reduction - so important for the total equivalent stylus tip mass - the use of aluminum gave an additional benefit. It was possible to prevent irritating magnetic noise (backhausen effect) and occurs when a magnetizeable material changes its magnetic state. The Damping system ortofon’s patented WRD (Wide Range Damping). The system comprises two pieces of rubber separated by a tiny platinum disc. It has been possible to incorporate a finer suspension wire and soften rubber compounds for the bearings. There refinements have permitted a compliance of 20 um/mN - the highest value for an Ortofon MC cartridge. High compliance guarantees exceptional tracking ability at low frequencies (minimum 100 um, which is a unique value for a moving coil cartridge), while the low equivalent stylus tip mass ensures tracking ability at high frequencies that surpasses all other top cartridges.

Taking in count all that stated above, I’m glad that i have unused NOS MC2000 in stock condition with all documents. 

When you’re talking about refurbishg of this cartridge i assume retippers use different cantilever (probably boron?), because the original alluminum cantilever of the MC2000 looks very unique in its conical shape: https://scontent-amt2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/21314671_1856897474328411_4826786900578504132_n.jpg?oh...

BTW What is the modern equivalent of this very special ortofon’s Symmetrical Contact Line (CLC) stylus tip ?

Very interesting post, Chakster. Perhaps Nandric can tell us what Axel used to do with MC2000s.  I certainly do not know, but your point (that re-tipping would probably change the cartridge) is well taken and one of which I am not unaware. (This latter is an English test for Nandric; two negatives make a positive.)  If you did not notice, my MC2000 has been re-tipped by Axel under the auspices of Nandric. But you must listen to your MC2000; don't let it go to waste.  If you want to sell it, let me know.

Chakster, by chance, I have been reading several works of literature that either take place in St Petersburg/Leningrad or refer to that city.  One is "Ten Days that Shook the World", John Reed's report of the Bolshevik revolution, as he actually lived through it in Petrograd.  Others are basically spy novels.  I would very much like to visit your beautiful city.