Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
Ag insider logo xs@2xrauliruegas
Never buy a record collection off a Decca user, you will find that most of their inner grooves are rooted.
Dgarretson, Wondering what you thinking was regarding adopting removable headshells to what is now a fixed headshell? I had thought about doing something similar to allow for more tweaking with various headshells. The proper parallel setup could also stay setup for each cartridge. Any other reasons?
Hmmmmmmmmm.....BEWARE THE DECCA USER and his "rooted grooves" indeed. After 50+ odd years of locating, and searching for the ancient vaulted plastic, something else to consider that had never crossed my mind. What exactly would an electron microscope image of a "rooted groove" look like?
Acman3, I'm guessing that most differences between boutique headshells are attributable to variations in weight/inertial mass rather than material composition. A front counterweight will test this point. Since the removeable headshell will attach directly to a bayonet on the pivot bearing of this linear tonearm, at least the arm wand is removed from consideration. Ultimately it's about convenience-- the ability to make quick comparisons between cartridges. Otherwise I wouldn't bother with a removeable head shell.
Hi Dover,

Explain to us why a properly set up and tracking London "Decca", would wear a groove any differently than any other properly set up and tracking cartridge! Sounds like a bit of internet BS to me?
Regards,
Don
The Decca is very difficult to set up correctly and hypercritical on arm selection. Remember it has no compliance whatsoever, the diamond is mounted on the end of a verticle pipe that is tied back to prevent it pulling away when playing. Personally I have set up around a dozen or so on various arms etc. I have seen Decca's with less than optimal set up gouge the inner grooves, literally.
Dgarretson, thanks, let us know how your hypothesis turns out. It would be interesting, in a different angle, if others with headshells of similar weight, but different composition would check your idea.

I always thought the difference in sound from headshells was due to dampening of vibrations due to a materials density but you could be right. As with most things audio it could be both in different degrees.

I remember Timeltel experimenting with different materials between the headshell and the cartridge. Perhaps he, and others, will add some light on the subject from their experience.

Hi Dover,

"I have seen Decca's with less than optimal set up gouge the inner grooves, literally."

You could substitute any cartridge name in place Decca's and the above quote and it would still be true! It's not the Decca's, it's the less than optimal set up!
If your not willing or able to do due diligents, then perhaps that individual should go back to mounting fat 1 mil.conicals!
Any Physics/Engineering grads or others willing to explain to me the benefit of this modification? I am hoping it will sound better.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XTC-133gm-LINN-AKITO-BASIK-LVX-REGA-ALPHASON-HR100S-UPGRADE-COUNTERWEIGHT-/120950702240?pt=Turntable_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c293940a0

ebay item #: 120950702240

Cheers!
Hi Tubed1,

It's not a matter of it will sound better, it's a matter of perhaps wanting to hear a Dennon cartridge, lets say a Denon 103R with an alum. Midus body (mine weights 14.77 grams), on a arm thats too light! Counter weight was added to acomplish balance for the added head weight. I'm not agreeing with or disagreeing with the method.
Regards,
Don
Hi Harold-not-the-barrel,

It has been a while since I did my Shure 1000e experiments... and you need to consider what stylus you are using.

With the N97xSAS in place the frequency range was flattest with high capacitance 500pf with 58k gave exemplary flat f/r to 9k before rising to a peak at around 13/14k of around +3db then dropping rapidly.

At 700pf 47k it stayed flat to 8k, but then rose more gently to +1.5db at 13k Before dropping off. - But I think the phase effects (which I cannot measure) might be a problem with such a high capacitance... I just don't feel comfortable there!

At the other extreme 150pf and 47k exposes the cantilever flex trough dropping gently from 3k to -2db at 6k to 7k before starting to rise to the resonance at 16k (+1.5db) so more of a roller coaster ride of a plot - but the f/r is much more extended - it is warmer (consequenc of the midrange trough) but still gets detail air and space (consequence of the slight upper end rise)

I did some preliminary testing with a VN5xSAS stylus - and its resonance is much more restrained - so you can achieve a more linear / neutral frequency response - but it is waiting for a rainy day to get tested thoroughly.

The ultra500 is a V15VMR on steroids - so for neutrality I would follow Shures standard setup - I do have measurements for the V15VSAS - but that is a different beast to the original VMR/Ultra500

Hope that helps

David
Hi Tubed1, With a statically balanced arm and pivot above the plane of the record, an under-slung counterweight gives a mechanical advantage when tracking warps. As a needle tracks the up side of a warp VTF is reduced. Needle is accelerating upward. Lowering the center of gravity (pivot) closer to the plane of the record, will increase VTF under these circumstances.
Increasing mass of the counterweight will put it closer to the pivot and slightly reduce eff arm mass, even when counterweight is increased.
Regards,
What finally "sent me over the edge" to try MM cartridges again after many years of MC use was not only the great info on this thread, but an unfortunate experience that I had with Van den Hul's retipping service three years ago. I had been a devoted fan of the sound of VdH cartridges (still am), but the experience left much to be desired. I don't relate the story to cast aspersions, but only because the subject of the length of the cantilever came up while trying to resolve the problem. The gist of the story is that a cartridge came back from retipping riding too low. VdH had recently changed US distributors and neither the new distributor Nor VdH wanted to take responsibility. I sent the cartridge back after direct communication with VdH and agreed to pay a "special reduced price" for the service, and the cartridge was returned to me with a longer cantilever than what was on it originally. My objections were dismissed with adamant assurances that "the length of the cantilever does not affect performance", that the reason for the longer cantilever was purely to meet VdH's "new geometry". BS? I think so, since the cartridge had performed well with the shorter cantilever for a few years. Did it sound worse with the longer cantilever? Can't answer that with certainly. It did sound different. Was the difference the result of the longer cantilever, or was it the new suspension? Who knows? I believe that the longer suspension was used as a way to ensure that the cartridge would not ride low; regardless of the effect on the sound.
Dear Frogman, The 'retip' is a misnomer for putting the cantilever with the stylus in the tube on which the coils,etc are fastened. This method is much easier then to
glue the stylus on (pre) existing cantilever. I don't think
that repear services get those preassembled cantilevers in
different length. Then if the original cantilever was broken do they care to investigate what the original lenght was? Will they cut the cantilever for the right lenght?
All extra work means higher price for the repair while only
such persons as you want to know exactly if the new cantilever is the same lenght as the original. While I don't consider myself as 'romantic' those ClearAudio cantilevers in both of my Virtuosos are pretty long and the boron kind is longer then the aluminum one. The only comfort with the long one is that those '0' points are much easier to aim at. You scared me to death with this 'flexing' but Raul deed find a contra (dictory) exampel with the AT 20 S so your general statement is negated in the sense of the logic of quantification.
But to me personaly your dicta 'shorter is better' is very appealing.

Regards,
In the last sentence of my post I, of course, meant to write: longer cantilever not "longer suspension".

Nandric, I agree. But, in this particular case I don't believe that receiving a longer cantilever was an accident. VdH (his rep; I never spoke to the man himself) was very dubious about my complaints that the cartridge was riding too low (so low that even .1 gr above the minimum recommended VTF would cause it to bottom out). After much back and forth they agreed to look at it. So, three prior retips with the same length cantilever; now, after complaints of "low ride" it comes back with a considerably longer cantilever. Hmmm, coincidence?
Nandric,
I would question your comment about repairers replacing the cantilever and diamond rather than the diamond on its own. When I used Garrot's many years ago I witnessed with my own eyes under the electron microscope the removal of the diamond only and its replacement. My understanding is replacement of the diamond alone is much less work than replacing the cantilever..
Dear Dover, My 'comment' is not a 'comment' but a quote from a Dutch retip service. I was also suprised to read that that 'retip' actually means replacement of both the
cantilever and the stylus. Because we all know that the stylus wears out it is 'logical' to think that only the stylus needs substitution. I have no idea when the 'styli producers' started with production of the whole assemble but it should be obvious that for the cart producers this 'method' is preferable. If a retip service state that glueing a stylus in the cantilever is more difficult then gluing the whole assemble how and why should I question this statement? The price list of, say, Axel mention by each kind of stylus also the kind of cantilever. The price is for the combo. If one wants a peculiar stylus in his own cantilever one should make this clear to the retip service. But this than make only sense by the so called 'exotic cantilevers'. To glue a stylus in an aluminum cantilever means that the advantage of aluminum in comparison with 'exotic' will be lost. In the (pre)assembled aluminum 'combo' the stylus is pressure fitted so the use of glue (between the stylus and the cantilever) can be avoided .

Regards,
Nandric, yes I can understand that if we are changing from a glue joint to a pressure joint then this would explain it. I note that Namiki use laser technology for their diamond cutting, so I guess advances in technology may have made it more practical to produce a complete cantiliver/stylus assembly if pressure fitting. This then begs the question of SRA, if the cantilevers are mounted at differing angles for different cartridges, then one would need to be able to order cantilever/stylus combinations with different diamond mounting angles to preserve the integrity of the original cartridge design as well as cantilever length. This I suspect would be a big ask for any manufacturer, the variations could be endless. Hmmmm.
Dear Dover, I am not a technical guy but can imagine that
depending on the cantilever lenght the cut angle for the
stylus should be different in order to get the SRA right.
For his carts J. Carr orders the preassemled boron/styli
combos by Ogura. Fremer illustrate the deviation between
the Titan and the Atlas with pictures; Atlas shoving an
SRA of 87.1 * ( Stereophile, May 2012). So your worry is
justified while I hope not to need to buy an digital microscope in order to adjust my carts. From this perspective one should hope that his stylus but not his cantilever is 'broken'. Ie how should, say, Axel know what the 'original lenght' of the original cantilever was?

Regards,
To quote Nandric, "I am not a technical guy", but years at this hobby has taught me that while we may wish it weren't so, the technical issues and considerations and subsequent choices that boutique manufacturers of phono cartridges make are probably made with a lot more latitude and variability than we hobbyists wish were the case. Wouldn't it be nice if a multi-thousand dollar cartridge came with a properly aligned stylus, on an absolutely perfectly aligned cantilever? On a related note, and as another reference to the issue that I had with VdH retipping, the cartridge came back not only with a much longer cantilever, but the stylus was glued on to it with what seemed like an excessive amount of glue. The stylus was glued on with a glob of adhesive far larger than the stylus itself, giving the appearance (unless inspected with magnification) of a there being an extremely large stylus in place.
Dear Frogman: I had the same " problem " with my Colibri. I bend or broke no less than four times the Colibri cantilever and the third time when I received the Colibri I canned use it because right at recomend VTF the cartridge bottom " hit " the LP surface. So I return it for VDH can fixed and then when come back again the cartridge was still in almost the same condition. I talk with VDH and cartridge gone for third time and this time what I assume VDH made was a suspension adjustment because the problem was fixed with out changed the cantilever.

I don't know what hapenned with your sample because on all the " history " of my Colibri always returned with similar cantilever length.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear Frogman, Van den Hul wants us to believe that he himself does all the cart work. I owned an FR-7 which he retipped in the 80s (?). Unbelievable craftmanship . He even signed for on the cart with writings which one can see only with the help of a magnifying glass. But then he become a 'celebrity' so he could employ others for all kinds of work...even Lukatschek.

Regards,
Dear Raul, I have at present an incredible cart. I am really stuned and thought to post this cart to you and hear your opininon. But I changed my mind because of your Colibri.

Regards,
Regards, Nikola: Send your "incredible" cart to me! Currently experimenting with replacing mounts with wood. I think you'll agree you've never heard it sound like it does when returned. ;)

Peace,
Nikola, I have never broken a cartridge in my audio life. You can trust me.
Cmon Nandric.....give it up. Some of us have never or want to listen to a Colibri anyway!
Dear Nandric: That happened when I had my analog rig set up with ten different tonearms/cartridges and with almost no " land/space " between the TT/tonearms to "handle " in a safe way and the Colibri cantilever is totally exposed/open to any " bad step ".

Please email me about.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
The Dutch have this saying:'never lend your bike or wife'.
I came to Holland as a refugee and had no difficulty
to grasp the first part of the warning . But the lesson from
the present financial crisis seems to be: don't lend anything
without security. I am not sure yet what to ask from Lew and
Herr Professor. Anyway Raul I am sorry for you.
I always thought that you care for your carts.

Regards,
"I have at present an incredible cart. I am really stuned", yes do tell, which cartridge would that be Nandric?
Dear Tubed1, First there is this 'licencia poetica' which should be not seen as the prerogative of the poets only. Then there is this Balkan humor with a huge amount of exaggeration as the most important part. My intention was to tease Raul while the 'incredible cart' is actually the pseudo Miyabi Standard ; aka Krell MC 100. But, to be honest, even Lew will not get this cart on loan. Except if
he would offer his Kenwood 07 as security.
Regarding Raul I would like to add the folowing. No wonder
Axel has no time to answer my emails. He got an gold mine in Mexico. The simple algebra learn: 100 carts x 3 new
cantilevers (4 for the Colibri)x 250 Euro = mucho dineros.
'In the other side' one can ask the question if Raul is a
coowner of the Mexican oil industry or (is)a shareholder by
the even more profitable industry of stimulants intended for the USA market.

Regards,
Dear friends: The Grace link was deleted and this is what you can read in the Soundsmith site:

NEW - GRACE F9 Replacement styli
Available August 15th, 2012
Soundsmith Ruby Cantilever, OCL Nude stylus $499
Soundsmith Ruby Cantilever, CL Nude stylus $399
Soundsmith Nude CL Stylusm / Aluminum Cantilever $299
Soundsmith Nude Elliptical stylus / Aluminum Cantilever$199
Soundsmith Bonded Elliptical stylus / Aluminum Cantilever $149.

Question?: wich advantages over the Axel job?. Remember that Axel has too ruby/sapphire material.

Regards and enjoy the msuic,
R.
one advantage is it sounds like you wont need a carcas, you wont have to send your frame in to be fitted.
Dear Ecir, I get the goose pimpels by the word 'carcas'.
I know that one need to fear only the living persons and has nothing to fear from the death one but my psychology seems to be programmed otherwise. I also looked in my English dictionary but, alas, no 'carcas' in there. So you must be 'some' Europian but I hope not from Romania (aka Dracula).But I am not sure what you want to say. Ie you can't 'send' your carcas without your own companion. You probable mean the 'corpus' or the body of the cart? But I don't agree. To check the coils of an cart one can't do this without, uh, the 'carcas' and if your coils are dameged you can't do anything with the stylus solo independant from the question how nice and well the stylus is made. It seems to me to be very wise to check the whole cart by any repair.

Regards,
Add a s and do another search, lol. What he is offering is no differant than you buying a replacement stylus assembly for lets say a AT20SS that previosly worked but has a broken cantilever.
Dear Ecir38: You are right but I don't see as a true advantage because when you send the cartridge to Axel he check and fix the whole cartridge that when you receive it is in mint condition. In the other side Axel has more alternatives about cantilever/stylus combinations.

Anyway, SS is an alternative for that Grace F-9 and Axel is still other alternative to the same cartridge: good for us.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear Ecir38: You are right but I don't see as a true advantage because when you send the cartridge to Axel he check and fix the whole cartridge that when you receive it is in mint condition. In the other side Axel has more alternatives about cantilever/stylus combinations and maybe for less money..

Anyway, SS is an alternative for that Grace F-9 and Axel is still other alternative to the same cartridge: good for us.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Axel and SS being retippers, that is the advantage. Preferring one over the other is another story. One could ship the whole assenbly to SS too if elected. Shipping horrors is another problem if not properly packaged that can cause damage to the coils.
Dear Ecir, 'Shipping horrors'? We live in the so called 'global economy' which is unthinkable without good organized transport. In 6 years of my 'ebay life' not a
single item was 'lost in transport'. Raul and I already mentioned our astonishment about those sellers who want to sell only in their own country. This 'aversion' or prejudice is in particular present in : USA, GB and Germany. The primary 'reason' which is stated to me when I asked for was: ''I don't trust foreigners''. This is called 'xenophobia'. That is to say by reasoning from some other presuppositions. From the legal point of view of course everyone is free to sell to whom he prefers.
Raul and I think that one get the best price for his item if he includes the whole world in his listing. The 'transport risk' exist in principle in any country.
I am sure that Raul has no idea how many items he posted abroad because I have also no idea about the numbers. But we both have obvioulsy no bad experience.

Regards,
Dear Nikola, you sir (as they say here in the USA), are "on a roll"! Perhaps you have located a supply of my previously recommended "Bustelo" espresso roast bean, and are indulging in a bit too much brew. Although, and in spite of your previous references to an interest in the source of certain other stimulants, I suspect your boundless wit does not need any help.
BTW:

car·cass  (kärks)
n.
1. The dead body of an animal, especially one slaughtered for food.
2. The body of a human.
3. Remains from which the substance or character is gone: the carcass of a once glorious empire.
4. A framework or basic structure: the carcass of a burned-out building.
[Middle English carcas, from Anglo-Norman carcais and Medieval Latin carcasium.]
The American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language, Fourth Edition copyright ©2000 by Houghton Mifflin Company. Updated in 2009. Published by Houghton Mifflin Company. All rights reserved.
carcass, carcase [ˈkɑːkəs]
n
1. the dead body of an animal, esp one that has been slaughtered for food, with the head, limbs, and entrails removed
2. Informal, usually facetious or derogatory a person's body
3. the skeleton or framework of a structure
4. the remains of anything when its life or vitality is gone; shell
[from Old French carcasse, of obscure origin]

Xenophobia is as American as Apple Pie and should be 11th on the Bill of Rights. Personally I will no longer buy from any merchant or seller in Canada. Why? Because there is always a problem; it's either the seller, Canada Post, customs or all three. I get deliveries from Hong Kong, Singapore, Italy and the UK quickly with no problems but Canada Post is the worst. I won't make any xenophobic comments about our neighbors to the North because we hardly consider them foreigners; just Americans with government Health Care and slightly amusing accents. Am I being facetious? Perhaps a little.
Dear sir, There are different terms regarding the 'meaning'
of words. Say 'connotation' versus 'notation', the ' emotive meaning' versus the 'real one', etc. But according to the modern linquistics not the words but the sentence
or statement (or 'proposition') is the basis for any investigation. Frege was the first to state: 'only in the context of a sentence has an word a meaning'. Or ' the meaning of an word is its contribution to the meaning of the whole sentence'. And the meaning of the sentence is the thought expessed by the sentence. So , in this context, quotation from whatever vocabulary in order to prove whatever is an indication that the writer has no idea what he is tolking about.
In my contributions I always provide the context in which
I use any expression. This was also the case by my use of
the word 'carcas' from which I constructed , as I thought, a funny story. You should, I think,not take Balkan humor to serious. But I have no idea what your real problem is.
However I can quess.
Dear Nikola, once again the difficulty of properly conveying the intended meaning of one's written words rears it's head. Please reread my comments to understand that they (as with yours) were intended as humurous and, more than anything, a compliment (in admiration) of your wit and abilities as a wordsmith. There is no problem; I assure you. My inclusion of the "definition" of the word carcass was simply in response to your stated inability to find the definition of "carcas" (sp?) yourself; nothing more. Obviously, my own attempts at wit failed, and I should know better than to try and match wits with you. While I would normally be inclined to simply respond: "lighten up!", I have too much respect for you to be dismissive of your concerns.

Regards.
Raul et. al., apples and oranges - the difference between Axel and the newly announced Soundsmith service is that SS is now fabricating complete stylus housing assemblies for the F9 cartridge whereas Axel is not. I only hope that SS will continue to rebuild owner-supplied Grace stylus assemblies as I've converted an F9-E to an F9 Ruby this way (actually an improved F9 Ruby because of the LC stylus). Also - I don't believe Axel offers ruby cantilevers (hard to rebuild an F9 Ruby without this).
Nikola, I didn't mention I wouldn't ship outside of my country, not sure why you brought that up. I wouldn't have a problem shipping a item to Axel or SS. You my freind have been lucky if you haven't had any such horrors and are probably in the minority. Most horrors stories happen with the transporter and usually poor packaging by the shipper is the culprit.
Dear Frogamn, What can I say? Very unfortunate as well as embarrassing for someone who really loves humor and try his best to be funny. Not an easy task btw but without attempts there would be no jokes. I am really sorry.

Dear Ecir, I made some general statements based on my experience. That is by induction. I have no idea about your ebay conduct so I have no opinion about that. I
wanted only to underline that according to my understanding
of the world economy and international trade there is obviously no fear reg. the transport. On the contrary because every contry try to export as many products as it can. If you look at the American foreign debt you can imagine I hope how many products are bought abroad on credit. This may cause some 'horror' but this is obviously not about the transport. You as anybody else is of course free to sell to whom you prefer but the best price seems to be connected with the number of bids which are connected with
the extension of the market, etc.,etc.

Regards,