Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
Ag insider logo xs@2xrauliruegas
Dear harold-not-the-barrel: Well I think the Ultra 500 is superb everywhere. If I remember Dlaloum agree with us about.

About Acutex: yes try to find out the 320 either flat or long nose models that IMHO are a lot better than the 400 series. Here we discuss about and >I think we agree on that.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear Timeltel: I own all those cartridges including the Jico stylus replacement what I don't " own " yet is the time to test it.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Hello Tom (Timeltel), the GarrottP77 and both the GraceF8 and F9 are incompatible. The F9 shank is round and the F8 and Garrott being diamond shaped. The F8 is smaller than the Garrott.

They maybe could be made to work with a little modification, but don't want to go there.

Hope this helps.
Regards, Griffithds, Raul, Acman3: Thanks for your efforts, guys. It would be nice to have a spare for retiping.

Peace,
Hello Acman3,

Your responce was a bit of a shock! The cartridges that Tom mentioned (and others), were grouped together in a discussion on this forum and were thought to be of the type which would have interchangable stylus's. From that discussion, I bought the Jico Stylus 1 for my P77 thinking it would also work in the Grace F9. I never thought about looking at the shank of the Grace to verify it was the same as the P77. I just assume it was! Thankfully I did not damage the Grace during my test fit of the diamond shaped Jico into the F9's round opening. Lesson learned! Thanks for the heads up.
Regards,
Halcro,

I've been sitting here for the last few hours being transported, listening to one of my favorite cartridges, the Garrott Bro. P77. Doing so reminded me of your P77 cartridge review. I took a break, looked up your review and read it again for probably the 10th time. That truly is one of the best cartridge reviews I've ever read.
How about a few more reviews? I like your style!
Regards,
Don
Thanks Don,
I appreciate your comments.
I'm sojourning in London at the present.....enjoying the cold and rain in the middle of summer?
Sydney is sunny and warmer in the middle of winter but hey......we don't have any Cezannes there whilst London has a goodly number.
Not as many as the Met in NYC.......but the Yanks have always had more money than the Brits?
Saturday will see me in Naples and then a week in Puglia ending in 3 days on the Amalfi Coast before 3 days in Singapore and then home.
Well.....someone has to do it ? :^)
I will try some more comments on various cartridges then if you are really interested?......it is all really sooooo subjective though?
Regards
Henry
Hi Raul !
The SHURE Ultra fits perfectly the SME III arm with 5 gram total mass and also Vic´s TERMINATOR that I´m currently using.
Thanks for advice.
There´s one ACUTEX M 320 III STR for sale in the US, unfortunately I can´t buy it because the seller will not ship to Europe. Oh, what a shame.
Best regards
Dear Dgarretson: Good for you, I'm sure you will be " happy " with its quality performance level.

Btw, with all respect to that Acutex seller seems to me " stupid " that some one refuse to ship to Europe or other diffrent place than domestic because there is no single problem to any one when do that, the " effort " to ship domestic or international is the same ?????

Regrads and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear Raul, I am also not able to understand such behaviour
but I think that the reason is 'prejudice' rather than stupidity. Both may look a like but are different. I observed such behaviour in particular by Americans, Germans and Britons. All those nations are somehow convinced about their own superiority. This is than somehow connected with the 'reliability' such that only their own people are reliable.BTW I was cheated 3 times in my 'ebay life' all 3 times by a German. They hate
paypal and when one transfer the money via his bank there is no protection whatever.

Regards,
In the past there were problems with US ebay sellers not getting paid on some European transactions. I thought ebay fixed this, but I really don't know. Also, European buyers often ask sellers to lie on customs forms. This can result in product being held and buyer never receives it, hence seller doesn't get paid. Because US is by far the largest market, some US sellers won't deal with foreign transactions.
Dear Fleib, ebay 'protection' is actually paypal protection. Paypal blocks the payment for 21 days to give the buyer time for eventual complaint. During this time the seller can't dispose of this money. But when the buyer refuse to pay the only thing one can do is to give an negative feedback. This however apply to all countries.
As I already mentioned my only bad experience is with some Germans and the reason is that they seldom use paypal. Ie with bank transfer there is no protection whatever.

Regards,
Dear Nandric, I am sure that in some cases your analysis is accurate, as regards why US sellers (or German or wherever) may not want to sell to persons outside their own borders. But there are other perfectly understandable reasons for adopting such a policy. First, the term "Paypal protection" is about as much an oxymoron as is the term "military intelligence". Second is the increasing number of scams that seem to be based in the UK and on the continent, at least from where I sit. Having said all that, I am not one who refuses to sell to persons in Europe, providing the buyer agrees to certain conditions that guarantee the integrity of the deal. I am, however, very reluctant to buy from outside the US, for reasons noted above, unless I know the person directly or the seller is a reputable dealer.

Now I've got a technical question. I am about to install a rotary switch at the rear of my MM-only phono stage so as to be able to select various load resistances and capacitance. The added Rs and Cs will be in parallel with a 100K resistor that suffices for the basic load. I intend to use a second 100K in parallel to obtain a net R of 50K, etc. But what capacitance should I add? I am thinking 100pF, then 200 or 250pF. Should I go any higher than that? Should I parallel the added capacitance with the 100K load R or with 50K? I know this is just a matter of opinion, but if anyone has a feel for the subject, your opinion would be valued. I want no more than six additional choices, assuming 100K with no added capacitance is the base.
Dear Lewm: I only can give my experiences about: I run at 100K ( I tested before at 47k and sounds good but prefer 100K. ) and is important to have capacitance options to at least 400pf and in increment of 50pf.

regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear Lew, what I have stated is not my 'analysis' but my
experience. I assume that the so called 'ebay rules' apply
everywhere. Paypal is not an 'oxymoron' as you think because
we need to keep our account there. Ie the paypal
has control of our money. When paypal blocks the payment
made for 21 days the obvious reason for this is to eventualy
return the money to the buyer. The so called
'protection' is of course at the account of the seller.
His money is involved not the money of paypal or ebay.
What Raul and I meant is that worldwide shipping should
ensure the best price for the seller. As a lawyer I know
that the seller is free to sell to whom he prefers. The
question what is the smartest thing to do is onother one.

Regards,
Dear Raul,
Do you mean to say that you hold 100K as a constant and vary only the added capacitance? That would be fine by me, but I was given to understand from certain posts by Dlaloum and Timeltel and perhaps others that there are cartridges that benefit from a lower load R (vs 100K) AND adding to C. I agree with you; it would seem to me that as long as the product of R and C is a constant (e.g., 100K paralleled with 100pF should be similar in effect to 47K paralleled with 200pF), it should not make a difference to the cartridge, but it did not seem that way based on my reading here. Comments appreciated.

Dear Nandric,
In my one experience of being duped (by a guy in Long Island, NY, not a "furriner"), Paypal did nothing to protect me and actually told me to go through VISA. Fortunately, I had paid part of the cost via VISA and was able to recoup that part of my investment with their help. My experience with Paypal is not unique. This is why I classified the term "Paypal protection" as an oxymoron. Perhaps they do better with international exchanges.

A funny story about scams originating in the UK. There once was an SME model 10 turntable (the TOTL) for sale out of London on eBay for what seemed an incredible low sum. I was naive in those days and so thought about buying it. The seller wanted to use bank transfer, which should have told me right away not to bother, but in any case, I obtained from him his mailing address. A Londoner with whom I work and who was about to visit her family offered to inspect the tt on my behalf prior to purchase. But we googled the address I was given, and we found it to be that of a very well known pub. She said also that the pub was in a very "sketchy" (means dangerous; don't park your car there) part of town. I guess I have not made the incident sound funny, but it was funny to us for some reason. (I like her dry English humor.)
Dear Lew, Fleib is convinced that the US market is the largest but I am convinced that Germany is the richest country in the world. 9 from 10 items that I buy I buy
in Germany. But the Germans hate the paypal fees so one
need to pay via bank transfer. Because of this peculiar German behaviour I need to 'analyse' my risk there. My 'statistics' is not so bad I would think.Three swindlers in 5 years time. But the best seller I have ever come across is/was from Italy. Who would expect this, uh, a priori? So no 'prejudice' for me against any country whatever.

Regards,
Nandric, If you are the buyer, why should the (German) seller hate the Paypal fees, if you presumably pay them? I only hate the fees when I am the buyer and have to pay them. In any case, the time is ripe for Paypal to have a competitor who charges less; the fees have become ridiculous. And then there is the issue, at least for me, of their willingness or ability to protect either buyer or seller.
Dear Lew, If you look at A'gon market you can see that sellers ask the buyers to add 4% by paypal payment. By ebay this is not allowed ; if one ask those 4% his listing
will be removed. Actually the seller need to pay ebay 8%
fees if his item is sold and 4% to paypal for the money transfer. Paypal has also its own exchange rate. In the EU we have all kinds of regulations but ebay and paypal are obviously overlooked. BTW the bank transfer within the EU is free of charge.
Nandric,

I recently purchased a stylus (Acutex M310 MKIII), from A.M.A.A. (Pickupnaald.nl). Their method of payment is bank transfer. No credit cards or PayPal. My bank, Well Fargo, wanted $45 for the transfer fee. The stylus was only $34. The entire worlds financial system has become a bunch of crooks!
I decided to send Pickupnaald euro's wrapped in aluminum foil and placed in an envelope. I would rather not know the name/names of the thief I'm being screwed by.
Stylus arrived last week. No problem.
Regards, Lew: It's recognized MM carts have resonance peaks at high frequencies. The height of these peaks can be varied by changing load resistance. Resonance frequency, or the center of the peak frequency, can be altered by changing the load capacitance. If cap. is increased then the resonance freq. is lowered. The *audible* outcome is that by increasing KOhm, hfs become more apparent, when capacitance is adjusted, the upper mids are more influenced. Extending resistance to 100k does enable hf response into the nom. 35kHz+ range where the rear signals for four channel playback are embedded, the majority of carts discussed here have that capability.

To this layman/listener, resistance essentially influences "how much" hf response, capacitance "where". Visualize a bell shaped curve. Resistance will raise or lower the response in the vertical plane, capacitance moves the center left/right on the horizontal scale. By combining settings, equalization through loading is the effective outcome and a variety of responses can be obtained.

I'm not sure manuf. recommendations are are to be adhered to as if written in stone, they're just recommendations. Neither should they be disregarded. Awareness of these references can help in cart selection or in identifying the source of unbalanced response. Avoiding the always debatable subject of preference, it's probably safe to suggest system and room influences are a factor. Silk dome, aluminum, horn, beryllium or foil tweeters, air suspension, ported or planar speakers, MOSFET, tube, IC or discrete amplification? Cantilever build, damping through suspension or tie-wire, stylus profile &c., all contribute to a situation where "best" is best avoided. PERSONALLY, unless hf response is noticeably not proportionate, 47k & 150pF suits the majority of my AT carts, a Shure M75E-T2 or M97xE (YMMV) at 100k. Acutex's at 100k/300-350pF. With the two Grace carts here (9E & L), hfs are spectacular at 100k but sometimes distracting, for these "tweeners", a set of loading plugs would be handy.

Back "in the day", it was not unusual for an audiophile to obtain a number of ICs of differing capacitance, these were matched to the cart in play. For a fun read, 35 years later, pgs. 8-13:

http://www.bostonaudiosociety.org/pdf/bass/BASS-06-01-7710b.pdf

I enjoyed in particular the cryptic comment; "some manufacturers may design their cartridges for non-flat playback response."

Peace,
Dear Lewm: Yes, I have a constant 100K load impedance and vary the capacitance value. Till today I not found out any cartridge that " refuse " to perform at its best with that " treatment ".

As a " plus " in my Essential Phonolinepreamp I achieve 100K whit out a resistor in the signal path ( input ) and you know that the best resistor is no resistor!

Btw, Timeltel: +++ " hfs are spectacular at 100k but sometimes distracting.. " ++++

IMHO this depends on each audio system quality level performance. Fortunately I have not that " distracting " episode.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Regards, Raul: "IMHO this depends on each audio system quality level performance."

Nicely phrased but I'm not buying entirely into it. Try an AT440MLa at 100k, you may want to cover your ears first. ;)

Peace,
Lew, this is how I setup a dip switch. 1-8 on the dip are added to a 100k resistor that is fixed at the input.

http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h69/ecir38/tonearm%20input%20switch/?action=view¤t=dipsettings.jpg



If you use a 100k and a 300k on your first two contacts of the rotary it will give 50k and 75k as a result when paralleled with your 100k.
Thanks, Ecir. I know how to calculate the values, and I have already decided to use an ELMA 12-pole stereo switch that I bought from M Percy and which I know will fit nicely at the rear of my MM phono stage. My question was really about what values to shoot for that will optimize the majority of these MM and MI cartridges. (Your workmanship is admirable by the way. Nice job.)

My favorites among them are the Grace Ruby and the Acutex so far (Ruby over Acutex, but maybe the loading will change that opinion). (Don't laugh; I STILL have many more cartridges to audition that have been sitting around here for a year or more; when I like something I tend to want to stick with it rather than rush to find out what else I will like.) I plan to be listening to the AKG P8E and P8E vdH, or whatever it's called; I have both. Also, the B&O MMC1 and MMC20CL(?) And I've got Stanton 881S, Pickering XVS 4500 and etc. My other established favorite, the Stanton 980LZS is running into my MC phono stage, the built-in section of an Atma-sphere MP1, loaded at 1000R. I want to buy an MC that can challenge these babies, but I don't know what that would be.

I tend to side with Raul; if the cartridge is capable of an extended frequency response, why knowingly attenuate it unless the extended response is per se a resonant peak? Can't that peak be tamed with capacitance, Timel?
Anyway, I feel licensed to start with just adding various amounts of C to 100K for R. The Grace in my system sounds wonderful with 100K load and no added C, but I am not certain how much C is being delivered by phono cable and the Miller capacitance of the input tube and etc.
Yes Lew I know you know. The option to have 50k,75k and 100k should cover all. As Timeltel says some carts you will wish you had options other than 100k. Hope your project works out for you.
Timeltels response is spot on!

all that I will add is this:

The R values I find most usefull are (roughly)

35k, 47k, 72k, 100k.... if I have more slots I would perhaps add 30k, 40k, 62k.

I prefer to use loading plugs rather than a switch, although my parallel RCA sockets are hard wired into the phono stage.
With loading plugs, I can always make up an additional set of plugs if I want to adjust up or down a smidge more.

Also once set up for loading plugs you can make up Capacitance loading plugs in addition to the resistive ones. Achieving the same flexibility with both.

If I was going to have a fixed set of capacitances with a switch...
Minimum 50pf (to protect the phono stage circuitry) - then
100, 150, 200, 300, 400.

That would provide (assuming 100pf table and IC capacitance) : 150/200/250/300/400/500, more granularity at the bottom end where you are likely to need it, and I cannot think of a cartridge where more than 500pf is recommended. Although in some of my experiments that was an alternative I considered, but the phase effects of capacitance are sufficient to avoid excessively high C ...

Although Raul's 100k "standard" has an excellent "filling out" effect on the trough that most cantilevers have in the 3kHz to 10kHz zone - it does it at the cost of increase amplitude AND PHASE SHIFT - in the higher frequencies.
With many of us being of an age where the frequencies above 15khz are likely to be historical, an frequencies above 10k may be in doubt, this approach may have validity...

But for me it just seems wrong...
I also believe that achieving phase linearity is another important goal that helps enormously with correct reproduction of imaging and soundstaging. At least when listening to naturally recorded twin mic / Blumlein methods - artificial studio constructs make phase relatively irrelevant.
Linear phase in the high frequencies is unlikely to be achievable with the 100k setup under most circumstances. (although with very low inductance and capacitance there may be exceptions)

This is my own two bits worth of input

If using a complete original stylus/cartridge then the manufacturer recommendations are always my starting point. But as soon as the stylus/cantilever is non original, or a hybrid from a different manufacturer or perhaps from the same manufacturer but intended for a different cartridge and loading configuration, I start by estimating roughly where the loading might be expected to be in terms of capacitance, setting R to 47k and measuring the response - once you know the frequency response - you can start varying from there.

Feeding the data into a modelling spreadsheet can also be used to estimate what a different load might sound like in both frequency and phase terms... but although the model works as a guideline, I have not found it to be sufficiently accurate to be predictive - but it does help by showing in which direction to head!
Thanks everyone for your informative responses.
Dlaloum, How do you "measure the frequency response" of your MM cartridges, meaning what tools do you use for that? I am inclined to be lazy and just go by my subjective "feeling". Thus I "feel" that 100K sounds best with many MMs. But if there is a quick and easy way to do it, I am game. I have a fair amount of measuring equipment. At work, I have to be anal; at home, not.

You are also spot on when you say that 15kHz is a "memory" for my sensorium. And I never was blessed/cursed with the ability to hear phase differences that drive others nuts. (Perhaps this is because I am a long term listener to dipole speakers [full-range ESLs], which probably are death to accurate reproduction of phase response at the listener seat. I also have theoretical issues with the phase-obsessed.)
Dear Timeltel: I posted about my cartridge experiences , I never heard that AT in my system.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Regards, Raul: Understood, and your comment on the level of system performance is also unarguable.

If the condition of "Purist" is the highest state of audiophile evolution, please remind yourself that comments relative to the Grace (I've two, they're not for sale) originate from a knuckle dragging midrange junkie. Nolo contendre. Your patience and civility are observed and appreciated.

Peace,
Hi Lew, **I tend to side with Raul; if the cartridge is capable of an extended frequency response, why knowingly attenuate it unless the extended response is per se a resonant peak? Can't that peak be tamed with capacitance, Timel?**

Sometimes a cartridge is too bright and you might want to attenuate HF response w/o rolling off extreme high end. Adding capacitance will lower (in frequency) the resonant peak, but not lower its amplitude. The frequency of the high end roll off will also be lowered.
http://www.tnt-audio.com/sorgenti/load_the_magnets_e.html

Regards,
If you go back to Japanese vintage gear from the 60's-70's from whence many of these MM's came, you will find that 33k,47k & 100k are common front panel loading options, and I have also seen 80k. Interestingly there are benefits here for some MC ( sorry to intrude ) users of vintage transformers where the secondaries are designed to run into higher loads than 47k, and I suspect many users of such ignore this. One of the beauties of a decent ALL tube phono stage is that you can set the input to 1meg and just load down from there as appropriate. Of course choice of loading resistors can be enlightening as well, use of nude vishays for loading in my experience may make more improvement than say changing from 47k to 100k, or may change your view on the optimum load.
Then we get into the wonderful world of Decca London cartridges - experiments with locating the loading resistors at the cartridge ( solder with expreme care ), at the tonearm base and the input to the preamp all yield different results both on solid state and tube phonos.
Hi Dover,

I requested that Joe Rassmussen (maker / designer of the JLTI phono) load my phono input at 1MOhm, he was more comfortable on his design with 500k - so my custom version of the JLTI has a 500k ohm input load, which I then adjust as desired using loading plugs - on occasion I have experimented with 150k R loads, but these were academic curiosities only...

So I highly recommend having a phono stage with a 1M input load - makes life a lot easier for those interested in custom loading.

Fascinating about the Decca London - if shifting the loading resistor location resulted in differing sonics, do you have any theories as to why?

When close to the cartridge, might the London be unshielded and perhaps prone to microphonics due to EM overlap with moving wiring? (or any other reasons...)

If it happens with the London it should happen with others too...

bye for now
David
Hi Lewm,

I use a range of differing test records, with the output from the phono stage being digitised and then run into a Real Time Analyser software... - the RTA allows me to then dump the data out as comma seperate variable (CSV) for pulling into spreadsheets - very handy for further manipulation.

The best test record I have is a Denon test record with two test tracks, the first is 3Hz to 1kHz and the second is 1kHz to 50kHz - which goes high enough to identify most resonances.

Alternative and more readily available test records:
The CBS test records - several of that series have spot frequency test tracks - these are precise in terms of being a specific frequency point, but painful to use as you need to measure each individual point seperately. (using these I can also identify and map THD at each frequency point)
Some of the CBS tests also have a frequency sweep - which is easier to use with my RTA software!

Another alternative is to use a Pink noise track, such as the one included on the HFN Test record - WARNING - the HFN Pink noise track is not to be trusted over 16kHz.
The thing to watch out for when using a PN track - and a sweep track - is that both methods sum the total outputs, which means the THD and IMD contributions are included as part of the frequency response. You are not measuring just the signal. That is the bad bit. The good bit is that the psycho-acoustic impression of the sound INCLUDES the harmonics - and the PN test therefore frequently better reflects the subjective impression of the sound profile of the setup!

The Pink Noise test is the most readily available of the tests, and also the easiest to use.

I have also used Werner Ogier's suggestion to extend the frequency range of the tests - run the records at 45 rather than 33 - the frequencies all get shifted up by 1/3rd.

The only difficult bit, is that when recording you need to compensate for the RIAA, as the EQ turnovers need to be shifted up 1/3rd as well - I have some freeware software that achieves that too... - Using this method and the HFN Pink noise track, you can get a good measurement up to around 21kHz. - This is perhaps the best relatively easy way to measure and adjust loading. (and if the HFN test record gets worn from testing all your cartridges, you can always buy another, as it is currently being produced!)

bye for now

David
Visualize a bell shaped curve. Resistance will raise or lower the response in the vertical plane, capacitance moves the center left/right on the horizontal scale. By combining settings, equalization through loading is the effective outcome and a variety of responses can be obtained.
I like the Professor's explanation.......especially as I consider myself a layman/listener in this respect.
My Halcro DM10 phono stage allows continuously variable resistance up to 60K ohms which may not be considerably different to 47K ohms......although to my ears there appears to be an increase in HF response?
Apart from about 2 or 3 of my MM cartridges which need some taming and thus sound better at or below 47K loading.........I find the majority of my cartridges are happily listened to at 60K?
I then modulate the response using the variable Capacitance loadings built into the phono stage.
I can imagine that perhaps the Empires and the Fidelity Research MMs might benefit from a 100K loading?.........but that's all academic to me as I ain't fiddling around in the Halcro?
Ideally, one wants two controls, one for R and a separate and independent one for C. Many vintage preamplifiers provided both. I just don't have room for two ELMAs on the rear of my MM phono stage, so I will have to make some educated guesses as to how to combine various Rs and Cs to satisfy most of my cartridges. I do have 12 positions on that switch. I had not contemplated using all of them, but I guess I will end up using more than 6. I agree with Halcro; the bell-shaped curve model is a very good one to explain the different effects of R and C. And I love the idea of a 1M load R that is permanently installed, so one can easily parallel Rs to achieve lesser loads. From a theoretical and complete audiophile extremist point of view, I wonder what is sonically preferable (assuming one could hear any difference at all), paralleling like or near-like values to achieve the load R or paralleling a very high value (1M) with values that are at or near to the actual desired load, to achieve the final load R. There is also the issue with a switch arrangement that the necessary wires running from the PCB to the switch can add noise to the phono signal; they are like little antennae. Having the 1M resistor actually on the PCB might attenuate that noise(?) Maybe.

Dlaloum, thanks for your explanation of how you take measurements. I own some of those test LPs you mention but none of the computer programs. I think I might learn something by looking into that subject further. I have a Mac laptop that is pretty much idle these days, could use it for such a purpose.
Dlaloum, I have an early JLTi phono unit (black box) which is stock, other than replacing the wall wart with a regulated power supply.

I've admitted my lack of electronics knowledge elsewhere on this site so I hope you won't mind a basic question. I'm thinking of replacing the input loading from 47K to 100K to allow more flexibility with custom loading using the parallel inputs. Why would 500K, 1M, or any other fixed loading higher than 100K be beneficial?

Thanks.
Dear Dlaloum: ++" on occasion I have experimented with 150k R loads, but these were academic curiosities only.." ++++

if I remember Dgarretson already tested with load impedance values 0ver 200K what I can't remember is what he listened, I hope he can chime about. In those time I wanted to test some values higher than 100K but never did.

Lewm, IMHO the best is a single fix resistor. I experienced several tests on that subject with our phonolinepreamp in the RIAA stage and over the phono stages.
In the other side as Dover posted the resistor's quality level is very important and makes a difference.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Gentlemen, keep in mind that a high value resistor, if it is not paralleled with a relatively low value, may in itself generate noise that is significant relative to the output of a MM cartridge. See this Thermal Noise Calculator.

For example, 200,000 ohms would generate 8 microvolts of noise within a 20 kHz bandwidth. That is about 54 db below the rated nominal output of a 4 mv cartridge, which is certainly not insignificant (although much of that noise will be in the treble region, and therefore it will be reduced somewhat by RIAA equalization). And considerable additional noise will be produced at frequencies above 20 kHz, which may have audible consequences as a result of intermodulation or other effects that may occur within the phono stage.
07-08-12: Lewm
From a theoretical and complete audiophile extremist point of view, I wonder what is sonically preferable (assuming one could hear any difference at all), paralleling like or near-like values to achieve the load R or paralleling a very high value (1M) with values that are at or near to the actual desired load, to achieve the final load R.
My instinct would be to prefer the physically simplest approach of one resistor, as suggested by Raul, although as a practical matter it is certainly possible that paralleling two resistors may work in an identical manner.

But between the two alternatives you propose, I don't think that the answer has much predictability. The difference (if any) would depend on parasitic effects, that are most likely only significant at ultrasonic or RF frequencies. Examples being the inductance of the resistors and their leads; the inductance of the wiring between the resistors; the inductance of the wiring between the resistors and the circuit points they are connected to; stray capacitances between the resistor leads and nearby circuit points; antenna effects, etc. Those effects will be dependent on the specific physical layout, and their consequences, if any, will be dependent on the behavior of the specific phono stage at ultrasonic and RF frequencies.

Best regards,
-- Al
Thanks, Al. Much of what you say are reasons why I have hesitated to install the switch. Obviously, any such set-up will add some noise, even just the switch itself. I had planned originally to keep the 100K load resistor in place on the PCB, where it is physically closest to the grid of the input tube and its ground connection. Then, I would run wires to each end of it from the switch, thus paralleling additional Rs and Cs with 100K. By my guesstimate, the wires would be 3 to 5 inches in length. Resistors on the switch would be highest quality, low noise types, of course, but as you say, there is no free lunch. (Did you say that? Anyway, it's true in audio as it is true in most restaurants.)

The other guys made me think about using a 1M resistor on the PCB; don't know whether that would be good or bad as regards attenuating any noise that could enter from the switch or its mounted components or the wiring itself. (Wiring is the culprit I fear most.) The saving grace is that all of these concerns would be somewhat mitigated by the relatively high output of MM cartridges.
Dear Raul, For resistive loading I use a Silonex light-dependent variable resistor in parallel with a fixed 200K TX2575 resistor. At least one or two MM cartridges preferred loading above 100K, but the experiment was done a few years ago shortly before that phono stage broke down and was side-lined for a long time. Now that it is working again I need to revisit that experiment.

In this set-up the Silonex LDR allows infinitely variable loading from 50ohms to 200K. The implementation is as compact as can be inside the phono chassis, assuming that the 5V control power supply is located remotely via umbilical. It is a very straight-forward DIY job.

BTW, it looks like my Acutex M320III STR will be travelling to Axel or to SS for renovation. The cartridge came to me with the cantilever tilted to one side and low in output on one channel. Even so, it sounds great. Has anyone out there had a retip done on a 315 or 320? If so, what stylus was selected and how did it work out?
Can't edit my last post, but I meant to add that your comments make me think of a third alternative, mount no resistor on the PCB and all loading is done from the switch. Thus one is not paralleling resistors, if that could raise issues.

There are some who say that for a plate load on a triode, if you parallel resistors to attain the desired final R, then you should only use Rs of equal value. I have read many arcane arguments pro and con this idea. Never thought about it as regards a phono cartridge.
Lew, FWIW the Silonex variable LDR and the 200K fixed resistor are attached together on the phono PCB. There is no additional wiring in the signal path.
Hi Lew,

Re your last two posts, I think that it's all pretty much anyone's guess. But FWIW my instinct would be to avoid high value resistors, in part because of the higher thermal noise they generate (which at RF frequencies might not be entirely negated by the paralleled lower resistance, because of intervening wiring inductance), and in part because I would guess that their behavior at RF frequencies may be less like that of an ideal resistor than would be the case with lower value resistors (but that is just a guess).

I haven't seen the arguments pro and con that you referred to about paralleled resistors in triode plate circuits, but in any event the signal parameters and circuit characteristics for phono cartridge signals are obviously very different.

FWIW, my instinct would be to either use just the switch-mounted resistors, or to use something like 200K on the PCB, as Dave (DGarretson) is doing with his LDR, in parallel with the switch-mounted resistors. Assuming that you don't foresee wanting to try parallel combinations greater than 100K, that would enable you to avoid having any of the resistors being larger than 200K (which you would have to do, for instance, if you were to put 100K on the PCB and wanted to achieve a parallel combination of say 80K).

Best regards,
-- Al
Al, Why do we care about RF? This is an MM phono cartridge that is probably not doing anything at those frequencies. If RF is picked up spuriously, then all bets are off, I guess. But it's not like bypassing an IC or similar, where we do want the component to behave even at RF. (Even the capacitors in the RIAA and in the load would not behave at RF, unless you use ceramics or the like, which sound bad. I guess silver mica is pretty good too, at those frequencies.) Anyway, I am convinced of your basic premise, will go back to my original plan.

Dave, We have discussed this a few times. It was my conception that those LDRs cannot go much above 10K in resistance (which if true would make it impossible to achieve 100K net resistance in parallel with 200K) and that there are problems with matching them, etc. How do you make it work?
07-08-12: Lewm
Al, Why do we care about RF? This is an MM phono cartridge that is probably not doing anything at those frequencies. If RF is picked up spuriously, then all bets are off, I guess. But it's not like bypassing an IC or similar, where we do want the component to behave even at RF.
Same reasons we care about RFI in any analog component. It can bypass circuitry and couple into arbitrary circuit points, with arbitrary and unpredictable effects. It can intermodulate with the audio signal at arbitrary points in the signal path. And in addition to spurious pickup, as I indicated a significant amount of the thermal noise produced by the resistors may be at RF frequencies. The higher the resistance, the higher that thermal noise will be, as indicated by the calculator I linked to. And, everything else being equal, if a circuit point is at a higher impedance relative to ground, it will be more susceptible to RFI pickup than if it is at a lower impedance.

Consider also the many threads we've seen here over the years involving people hearing radio stations when listening to phono sources!

Best regards,
-- Al
Dear Dgarretson: Thank's to chimed on the resistor subject.

In the other side, I re-tipped one of my 315 samples trhough VDH with great success obviously with VDH 1/2 ?? stylus shape and boron cantilever.

Axel has several options:

PRICE LIST for retipping MC Cartridges ( English )

with spherical diamond stylus and aluminium cantilever EUR. 89,00

with elliptical diamond stylus and aluminium cantilever EUR. 99,00

with nude line diamond stylus and aluminium cantilever EUR. 159,00

with hyper elliptical diamond stylus and aluminium cantilever EUR. 169,00

with rebuilt Shibata diamond and aluminium cantilever EUR. 179,00

with nude elliptical diamond and BORON cantilever EUR. 195,00

with nude elliptical diamond and aluminium cantilever EUR. 189,00

with original nude shibata stylus and CARBON cantilever EUR. 225,00

with original nude shibata stylus and aluminium cantilever EUR. 265,00

with original nude shibata stylus and BORON cantilever EUR. 265,00

with original GYGER II diamond stylus and aluminium cantilever EUR. 265,00

with original Nude Shibata diamond and BERYLLIUM cantilever EUR. 325,00



So you can choose almost what you want it.

Regards and enjoy the music,

R.