Listen to Ferrari...the NAD 3080 IS one of the best products NAD ever made and can smoke many an amp out there with class, grace, and power. |
Get the Krell 400XI..you will thank me profusely!! |
I am cuurently using the Nad Silverline S200 this together with a Mapletree tube pre amp offers fantastic sound quality whether it is played loud or at lower volumes. The S200 puts out 220 watts, so the reserve power is all there in spades. You can get some really good deals on this unit on this site.
If you haven't found audio heaven then what have you got to lose.
Good luck.
Ricky. |
I am using the NAD C352 and sometimes have the urge to change it. But everytime I sit down to listen to the music..the urge is gone. The C320BEE is a very good amp. But I suggest that you go to the dealer with a couple of your fav CDs and do a A/B with the c352 and then decide.
For me, as of now, it is difficult to justify why I should jump in the $1500-$2000 price range from the NAD C352. A $2500+ will probably justify...but it is too much right now. |
The venerable NAD 3080 would more than handle the requirements you need. This NAD amp would drive 2 ohm loads with ease and will drive planars nicely. Hard to find but worth the search.
The NAD 3080 is a fully descrete amplifier,no cheap IC parts anywhere. Appears to use the Motorola hi hat output transistors wired in parallel no less! Means they are coasting most of the time.
Power Amplifier Section:
Continous average power output at 8 ohms min RMS power per channel 20-20,000 kHz both channels driven,with no more than the rated distortion/ 90 W(19.5 dBW)
Distortion: 0.03%
Clipping Headroom: + 1.6 dB
Clipping Power(Maximum Power) 130 Watts at 8 ohms
160 Watts at 4 ohms
180 Watts at 2 ohms
Dynamic Headroom at 8 ohms - + 2.5 dB
Dynamic Power( short term) 160 Watts at 8 ohms
200 Watts at 4 ohms
200 Watts at 2 ohms
Reactive Load Rating - + 2.5 dB(160 W)
Transient Overload Recovery Time <5 uSec.
Slew Factor - >50
Slew Rate - 40V/uSec.
Damping Factor at 50Hz 8 ohms - 120
THD - <0.03
IM - <0.03
TIM - <0.03
Frequency Response 20-20,000 kHz at rated Power - +/- 0.5dB
Frequency Response Range 5-50kHz
Input Impedance -10K/100pf
Input Sensitivity - 140 mV
Signal to Noise Ratio - 104 db at rated power.
Pre Amplifier Section:
Phono Inputs(2 provided)
Input Impedance - 47k Ohm/47pf
Input Sensitivty - 0.25mV
Input Overload - 200mV
THD - 0.01%
RIAA Response Accuracy - +/- 0.3dB
Signal to Noise w/cartridge - >82dB ref 10 mV
High Level Inputs(Tuner,Aux,Tape)
Input Impedance - 50k ohm/100pf
Input Sensitivty - 20mV
Signal to Noise Ratio - >80 dB
Maximum Input Signal - Infinite
Frequency Response 20-20 kHz - Infinite
Distortion All Types - <0.01%
(THD,SMPTE IM,IHF,CCIF,TIM)
Controls:
Bass Control Range at 50Hz - +/- 11 & +/- 13dB
Treble Control Range at 10kHz +/- 6 & +/- 9 dB
Infrasonic Filter - 20Hz 12dB/oct.
High Filter - 8kHz 12db/oct
In my opinion one of the best Integrated amps ever made and could compete with the Accuphase of the time at far less cost. The problem, trying to find one, as this was one of the products that established NAD. Since the 3080 Integrated Amp which was the flagship model, NAD has not produced any integrated that is as good as this one. |
c-372. actually it puts out 170 wpc according to my manual. having owned mid priced b&w's and different nad amps i suggest it is the speaker that is getting befuddled with the heavy demands. with a room that size if you can't get driven out with PAIN using the c-372 you need either counseling, ear wax removal, or a new set of speakers. i suspect it is the speakers that need to go. |
The C320BEE is a wonderful sounding amp. If you want to know whether the 50 watts of the C320BEE is enough, do the following.
Buy a cheap digital multimeter which you can get for less than $20. Buy a test CD with a -20dB test tone, [probably better if it is not pink noise]. [I can help you if you cannot find one.]
Select the AC voltage scale on the multimeter that allows you to measure up to 2 volts or so. [Make sure you have selected the correct scale.] Place one of the multimeter test leads on one terminal of your speakers. Place the other on the other speaker terminal. Play the -20dB test tone, with the volume low and turn up the volume until the meter reads 1.4 volts. [If the meter gives no reading, do not just keep turning up the volume; find out what is wrong.] [If your speaker impedance drops below 4 ohms down to 2 at some frequencies, then you might want to stop at 1 volt instead.]
Once you have found the setting that gives 1.4 volts, leave the volume control there and play a bunch of CDs, taking notice of how loud the music is. If that is not loud enough, you will probably need more power than the C320BEE can deliver. It would be best to step up to at least 150 watts if you are going to step up at all. Note, if you play vinyl, you will probably need more power than if you play CDs because the warps eat up a lot of amp power.
enjoy |
Thanks, I am not wondering about power,but do all nad amps sound the same? I will go listen. |
Samuel:
It must get really loud in your listening room. I understand what Tobias is getting out in suggesting an amp that puts out 200 wpc or greater ... but that just sounds like overkill in a 11 X 12 room ... but the science requires that to double the volume you must double the power. I am assuming that your speakers are in B&W's 600 DM series, which are something like 88/89 db efficient and that you are looking for an amplifier in a complementary price range (stop me at any point if I am wrong).
If your current amp allows you to use its preamp section separate from the power amp and given that you like the NAD house sound, maybe the way to go is to try NAD's C272 power amp @150 wpc. If you can't go do the pre/power split, the C372 integrated amp @ 150 wpc may be the ticket.
Do you have a local NAD dealer who will allow you to try a home audition?
Regards, Rich |
Well, I guess you have to put both your amp and your speakers into the equation. If your present setup is crapping out on orchestral peaks, you have a headroom problem that won't go away with only double the amplifier power. You will need more like six to ten times more.
(This is because of the dynamic range of an orchestral performance. Crescendos and tutti can pack a real wallop. For a peak that doubles volume for more than an instant, your amp needs to put out ten times the watts.)
B&W speakers are not known for their efficiency, and bookshelf designs in general tend to be a tad more power-hungry than larger ones. The solution may be to find a more powerful amp AND get more efficient speakers. |
C352 floats my boat in my second system
Larry |
If 60 watts isn't enough, 70 or even a 100 won't be either. You should at least double the power or get something with a lot of current. |
I am using b&w bookshelf speaker and my room is 11x12' |
I dont want more power, just reserve power for orchestral peaks (exactly) |
Samuel:
Thanks for referencing my review. Tobias is on the mark in asking for more information. I was using the NAD C320BEE in a 10 X 15 X 8 1/2 room with Acoustic Research 302 speakers. These speakers could go down to 35 HZ and the NAD complemented them pretty well. Thing is though I live in an apartment and I don't crank the sound up that much except on the rare weekday afternoon. With music the NAD had more than enough power given my room size and all that, but when I would play a DVD using the NAD, the NAD would run out of gas.
So, provide us with some more info and we can talk some more.
Regards, Rich |
I don't think the C320 BEE will do what you want. It's not a real bass grunter, just a nice sounding amp after it warms up. It has less power output (50 wpc) than what you have now.
It's hard to advise you. Why do you want more power? Not enough bass? Clipping on orchestral peaks? If what you want is more volume, you will need a LOT more power.
The 10 o'clock volume position doesn't mean much.
Post some details--how big your room is, what kind of music you listen to, your present amp, and why you think you need more power--and see if anyone has suggestions.
Good luck! |
