What are the best GaN Amplifiers available today?
There have been a number of threads discussing the wonder of GaN and some of the individual amplifiers that have caught peoples attention, including those from AGD, Atma-Sphere, Peachtree, LSA, etc. Has anyone done a shootout against two or more GaN amps? If so, which did you prefer, and why? And on what speakers?
Also, of the one you preferred, do you prefer it over every other amplifier you’ve ever heard? If not, what non-GaN amp do you enjoy more?
is it the one you mentionned ? https://www.amazon.ca/GIANDEL-2200-12-120-port/dp/B07CKBJ9KP?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&language=en_CA If i pick this one do i need 12 volt or 24 volt for my Sansui 607i alpha amplifier ?
is this battery will do the job ?
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Ralph, So, you are an expert on damping? You spent hundreds of hours with various damping materials and used them everywhere and you know which damping materials are linear and which are not and where to use it and where not to use it? I doubt it. I am not an expert....but I have spend countless hours damping things with various materials.....and all class D amps are sensitive to damping......and yes, you can overdamp. This is not a theory of mine. This is based on truth.....truth equals direct experience. I try lots of things and I listen. What did you try? Do you have great feet underneath your amps? Do you have them sitting on tricked out shelving and isolation platforms? I doubt it. When my friend damped the heatsinks on his Parasound amps he first put too much on and it made the amps sound dead......but one....one inch wide strip down the middle of each heatsink improved the sound over not damping.....very serioulsy. Yes, you can overdamp. And this EAR material is the most linear I have found.....but you still have to be careful what you damp and how much you damp.....all determined by the EAR.....our best tool. Some say "nothing makes a difference"......others say..."only what I say (usually by theory) makes a difference".......and others KNOW that "everything makes a difference".......and those are the people who open mindedly listen to lots and lots of things.....and the more they listen the more they know they know NOTHING.....because it is impossible to try everything. The game is infinite. Here is another tidbit of info. The Pascal class D modules are very good by themselves. D-Sonic makes nice ones. However, Aavik uses these modules in their expnsive class D integrated amps but they add their "tesla coils". These are a filter that works better than normal inductors and caps (like what Ralph has on the input of his amps). The more expensive Aavik amps use the same Pascal modules and produces sound better......mainly because they have more of these "tesla coils". Please go to their site and read the info about these coils (passive and active versions). This is why an inverter is so important. You get rid of tons of noise and distortion right at the source.....the terrible AC line......you eliminate a lot of noise right there.....you cannot have enough noise reduction (determined by listening). Noise and distortion are the same thing.....noise is distortion......distortion is noise. When you have better footers and stands you have less noise.....when you raise your speaker cables off the floor you have less noise......it is infinite. It is not a theory......it is hearable.....it is truth.....truth is what you EXPERIENCE. May you experience the Truth of your being......your beauty....your love.....your joy. It is always present.....with every breath. Breath it in....feel it...breath it out and bless others. Have a great every moment! |
It is impossible to overdamp. If adding too much damping seems to mess things up its because the damping device or material really isn't that good at its job so its adding a coloration of its own. FWIW I've found our class D amp to be quite resistant to effects from vibration. Damping seems to have no effect whatsoever. If you think about it this is not at all surprising. Damping isn't going to affect a device that is off nor one that is fully on (saturated). It might affect a device in its 'linear' region, but GANFETs and the devices driving them spend surprisingly little time in that region- they are very fast. |
Can i use it without battery directly from the wall connected to my amplifier ?
Will i see an improvement even without the battery ?
Can i bought the battery later or it is necessary to go with the battery too ?
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Using a Gan 1 or VTV 300 in your system is a lot simpler and cheaper than using other GaN or mosfet class d systems. When yyz is comparing his less than $2K (WITH MODS) GaN 1 with his $12K amp he is also using a $3K preamp and a $2K DAC with analog interconnects into the $12K amp. You also need 2 more power cords using an analog class d amp.....unless you are using the volume control in your DAC. The GaN 1 is being driven directly from a streamer or other digital source using a digital volume control.......seriously way less money. When he complains about the GaN 1 being a pain in the arse its because he wants to use tuners and subs that might not be compatible with the GaN 1 outputs. I have a streamer going directly to my VTV D300 digital amp and then directly to my speakers.....most of you reading this do not have vinyl or tuners or whatever. Of course, with intelligence you can interface many things to a digital amp (including phono stages and subs). Besides modding your class d amp (analog or digital).....you can do some things that will bring parts of your system and even your entire system to another level: These things are for class a, class ab and tubed gear as well: 1. Damping chassis and heatsinks. The cover on the VTV amps and the Orchard amps are really thin and ringy. Add some damped weight on top for much better sound. My friend is using the Parasound JC 1+ amps and I told him to damp the heatsinks and top cover.....way better sound. He used a small 1 inch wide strip of EAR SD40AL constrained layer damping material (sold by Micheal Percy Audio) down the middle of the tips of the fins on both sides of the amp. He then put some damped weight on the amp.......loves it. He also damped the heatsinks on his Rythmic Audio servo sub amps........tighter bass. DO NOT OVERDAMP!....listen for best sound. 2. Serious feet underneath a component are necessary. I use the best Mad Scientist feet and underneath that are two different types of hardwood shelves (Maple on top of bamboo) sitting on an inner tube with barely any air in it so it resonates under 5 cycles. 3. Here is a seriously great upgrade for you all.............GET OFF THE GRID!!!!! Run you entire system on an inverter. The Giandel PS2000SAR...2000 watt pure sine wave inverter is on sale right now for $289 delivered. Buy a $300 100 amp hour LifePo 4 battery and a 20 amp charger and for around $700 total....you will be mind blown. The same great sound day and night. Always sounds the same. The inverter will sound better by itself than most expensive line conditioners and you can use it in front of a great line conditioner (like the Puritan) for even better sound. All inverters put out some noise.....but it is way better than the wall. You have NO IDEA how transformative this is. I just turned on someone to this system and he was already using the Core Audio isolation transformer on his system (low powered tube amp driving modified Klipsch speakers). He just called me today and said the inverter made it sound way better. He is still using the core audio thang but will plug the stuff directly into the inverter and see what the difference is when adding the isolation transformer. The fan in any Giandel inverter does not come on till you are running at least 40 % of its rated power. So, a 2000 watt inverter will only run its fan when it is pulling 800 or more continuous watts.......we don't want no stinkin fans going when listening to music. Please see way more info on inverters on my website. My friend with the JC 1+ amps uses the Giandel 5000 watter and two 200 amp hour batteries.....but he is drawing 700 watts continuous.......Us class D users need way, way less juice......smaller, lighter, less expensive and great sound. Please read the review in Stereophile by Jason Serinus about his use of the Stromtank inverter ($16K!!!!!!). This $700 Giandel system is probably as good or better and it can do more power....and you can hook up as much battery as you want. |
Paired my GaN 400 with a Rogue RP-1. After upgrading the stock tubes in the Rogue to Gold Lions, I'm getting very nice results -- not at all like the typical class D I've heard in the recent past (also the case before the recent tube swap, but now there's more natural-sounding goodness). Just my 2 cents. |
@mbmi Have you heard the CODA #16? To my ears, it is one of the very best amps out there, and I have a feeling a lot of others feel that way. The CODA #16 is as good as the T+A HV, which I am considering today for my LRS+ and RAAL SR1a & CA-1a. The CODA #16 is also bit better than KRELL Duo XD which I owned. The same model I owned just came up for sale at a super low price, I may buy that instead. Cheap price must mean it is not so good? Good thing I have owned and heard the KRELL before to know better. The best amp I have heard and owned, the AHB2, costs $3.3K new, but it is not as good on hard to drive speakers. But that top end is unsurpassed paired with the right preamp and speakers. Have you heard that amp? The CODA comes close to the top end of the AHB2 but not as good, but the CODA also has killer bass with hard to drive speakers. If you have an easy to drive speaker the much cheaper AHB2 could be better. How could that be, it is lower in cost? You have not heard a modded Peachtree GAN1? Your opinion is based on more money is better. Good for us, it helps keep the economy moving. The modded GAN1 amp is almost as good on my RAAL VM-1a headphone amp. I sold the RAAL amp today for $5k in about 4 hours after posting on Head-fi that I was selling it. Do you know how good the VM-1a is? People in the know on the phone community know the RAALs with the VM-1a maybe unsurpassed at ANY PRICE. The Peachtree GAN1 and CODA #16 are almost as good as the VM-1a on the phones. On an easier to drive speakers that same comparison can apply to the GAN1 vs #16. How could that be the GAN1 is so much cheaper, blasphemy. Or could it be the totally different design of the GAN1 (and the mods)? I owned and compared a $2.5k Yggi+ LM DAC with a $15K Lumin X1 streamer/DAC. When I added a fibre streamer to the Yggi+ it made the total about $5K. To my ears the Yggi+ LM stayed and the X1 went bye-bye. So again, cheaper was better. Quit giving advice on things you have no knowledge one. Remember what Mark Twain said on speaking out about things you know nothing about.
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@pennfootball71 the 2 most recent KRELL models I spoke of are the same as the KRELL 400i except for the lack of fans and the new 2nd order harmonics feature Krell talks about. The 400i also is more robust than the lower models and can even go down to 1 Ohm if your house can handle it. My issue is not budget (just work longer if needed) I am looking at synergy. I am wondering if the 400i is also very smooth on top like the XD models that it is based on. I know it is great but great and synergy with my speakers could conflict. Gryphon is on the other side of my sound preference. At least what I heard in the past. My interest now after exploring a few Class D options are:
I may also buy the KEF Blade 2 Meta in about 5 years when it is safe to do so. At the moment my house is crazy with too much running around that could knock over the Blade. The 400i would be a great match with the Blade. |
@yyzsantabarbara yea older Krell products not in the same league and a waste of time. |
Can you tell us more about the sound of the KRELL. I am a huge Duo XD fan and had 2 of those items recently. I actually bought a heavy-duty amp stand just for the Krell K400i amp. I am thinking of pivoting away from the KRELL because the speakers I have now may not match with the buttery smoothness of the KRELL XD. I was expecting to pair KEF Blade 2 Meta with the 400i but changed my mind on the speakers. Do you have experience with the lower model Duo XD and how it compares with the new 400i? The fact that it weighs 160 lbs is also something I am debating on. @arafiq Only thing I have heard about the Aavrik is what you posted. I am starting to think that Class D is a little lacking on the low end. I never had anything in Class D in the Aavrik price range so I may be wrong. However, compared to the CODA #16 and KRELL Duo 175XD that I recently had in the house all my Class D amps were not as dynamic on the bottom. I finally put the CODA #16 together with the Schitt Yggi+ Less is More DAC (amazing DAC do not let the price fool you, like it more than the Lumin X1). What synergy, now my problem is that I also want that level of amp for my office system. The PeachTree GAN400 is not cutting it with my Magnepan LRS+. It is really good but in comparison to the CODA #16 it is far behind. The Maggie’s seem to be very responsive to better quality gear. |
@mjcmt Yes. |
@pennfootball71 All good stuff there. I can see where Andy Miles may get good synergy using Lampizator Horizon and the Kalugas. I prefer not to introduce tubes to a source any longer and will either only have them in a preamp or power amp, for consistency’s sake across sources. The Kalugas, in my opinion, need tubes somewhere in their chain to sound their best. I think an all Aavik top level system sounds better, but it just gets subjective at that level. I’ve had a few Audionet pieces in house, though none of the reference gear they make. In my experience, from hearing reference Audionet gear in other people’s homes and at shows, while the higher end models like Humboldt, Stern, and Heisenberg may have more control, they are also more refined / have a softer delivery. The price differences are significant, as well. The Humboldt monoblocks are $120K. The T+A A 3000 HV in stereo is $22,500. What many people don’t realize is the modularity of the T+A HV amplification stack. First, the $15K PS 3000 HV can be added to the power amp to enable a dedicated power supply for the output stage with 120,000uF capacitance, leaving the power supply in the A 3000 HV amplifier with its 120,000uF to handle the input stage. You could also set the amplifier to mono and as a result have two amplifiers each with the optional PS 3000 HV power supply. This then allows for 380wpc into 8 Ohm and 650wpc into 4 Ohm with 1/4 Farad of capacitance per channel. This configuration delivers significantly better control and soundstaging than a single stereo stack can, and its combined retail is still 60% of the cost of the Audionet Humboldt mono blocks. I’m not certain that your Audionet dealer has heard the T+A electronics in this configuration. At this level, again, I think it falls into subjective preference. I LOVE Audionet equipment with a passion, but I also know through experience that they are more tonally rich, a bit more colored than T+A. You are right that the Gryphon Apex and Commander “crush” the T+A stack, but at truly diminishing returns. That combo is one I have heard that bests the T+A fairly well in just about everything in my opinion, but again, some people may not prefer the tonal richness of the Gryphon stack - it all comes down to pairing to get system synergy. That said, I am a Vivid Audio dealer and have a close friend just a few towns over who has the Gryphon Apex and Commander stack hooked up to a pair of Vivid Giya G1 Spirit, and it is honestly in the top three systems I’ve ever heard in my life - the combination of live presence, tonal richness, control and holographic richness is intoxicating - but also consider the Apex amp on its own is $100K, and the preamp is $63K, DAC is extra… the pricing is also significantly higher than T+A. I’ve been less impressed with Pilium electronics but it could have just been the rooms and pairings I’ve heard from them in shows. |
@blisshifi My friend Andy Miles is an Aavik and Borreson dealer. I heard Aavik gear against Mola Mola and I also heard all the Audionet stuff. He uses Mola Mola Kalugas and Makua on his Borreson O5’s with a Lampizator Horizon DAC and an Aurender W20SE. He uses an Aavik I 280 integrated on his YG Carmel 2. The Aavik DAC is decent but is huge in Germany and good until you get to the REALLY high end stuff Gryphon does and the Apex and Commander crushes the T+A in the very high end. He is also biased and I never heard the Gryphon too stuff just their cheaper older muddy mosfet gear before they switched to bipolar transistors. My other friend who is a reviewer for the Absolute Sound also has a Pilium Stack. That stuff is between Aavik and Audionet. It’s very good but quirky…there is no soft start to turn it on. |
@yyzsantabarbara I'm surprised you've never heard the Aavik. Last year I purchased the Aavik U-280 integrated amplifier, which is basically Aavik's integrated amp (I-280) and DAC (D-280) in a single chassis. After owning several tube and solid state amps (including Audio Research, Luxman amongst many others) at various price points, I can safely say that this Aavik amp has surpassed my expectations. It has the three dimensional holographic sound of tubes but also the detail, clarity and bass slam that only very excellent SS amps provide. It is also simultaneously musical -- as in it draws me into the music. To this date, no other amp has had an iron grip on my Joseph Audio Perspective2 speakers like the Aavik does. The dealer I worked with provides free in-home auditions, of course you pay shipping but only in case you decide to not keep it. One of the best audio decisions I've made in a long time ... my electric bill agrees with this sentiment as well :) |
@yyzsantabarbara .....I don't own the T+A but do own the Aavik U-150 integrated Class D Amp. The Soundstage is the Deepest I've ever heard ( if you don't like Forward) The width also extends way beyond the physical speakers. It plays with delicacy and Authority. the most important thing is that I love how it Draws me right into the music....Even at low volume.....The T+A I've only read how good it is. |
@yyzsantabarbara Ha! All good on the T+A comment. I used to think T+A was on the warm side but I realize it’s more prominent in their HV series DACs (also controllable through the DAC filters) vs their amplification and preamplification. Bear in mind the EDGE M are not Class D, heavier at 50+ lbs each and will heat as much as a Class AB amp. If that is suitable, then yes, definitely try! |
I am the person that said the HV sounds a little warm, which most people like. I think it sounds like the amazing KRELL Duo XD (owned before) that I have raved about. However, I do not think it would pair well with the NS5000 that I have now. I can get a used KRELL Dou 300XD for $6K. It would be very good for sure but maybe not great. I do know the Vivid Kaya 90. I demoed it with the NS5000 and Magico A3. The NS5000 was the worst sounding of the 3, but I guessed correctly that it sounded bad because of the glass walled room + furniture I heard it in. I think I should hear this Edge M before I send 2x more on the SimAudio.
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Sadly I don’t have the EDGE M - only the EDGE A integrated and EDGE NQ Streaming DAC Preamp. The integrated and the EDGE W power amp are identical in design aside from the identical volume stage found in the EDGE NQ also being present in the EDGE A. I am hoping to order the EDGE M in the next month or two, but they are in a queue behind some other gear my business needs to fund. I would say that the performance of the EDGE A is very linear, even more than the T+A A 200, whose measurements show its frequency response to be truly linear. I wouldn’t characterize it as warm at all, though one review mentioned that. I would say there is a musicality / soulfulness to it that may be characterized as smooth in delivery, but it is not warm or rich compared to T+A electronics. This is not to say that T+A is warm (I actually disagree with the poster who said T+A is warm - I find the HV Series DAC to be very rich with harmonics and tonally dense in the best way possible, but the HV amp and power supply is incredibly neutral, but refined and will reveal whatever sonic signature is otherwise in the chain). The EDGE is incredibly revealing, less effortless/refined than the T+A electronics as well. I typically prefer highly refined electronics, but in this case, the way the EDGE images and engages is I believe close to being unparalleled in its class. With a few speakers, I didn’t feel like the EDGE A’s amplification was lacking at all. This includes the Vivid Kaya 90, Legacy Audio Signature SE, and Scansonic MB-5B. The amp paired especially well with the Legacy and Vivid speakers. With Borresen 02 and T+A Solitaire S 530, I started to lose a little bit of control when over 95db peaks in a medium to large sized room (19x23 with ceiling slant up to 18ft). I rarely ever listen that loud, but it is part of my normal evaluation procedure. This is likely due to the impedance dips these speakers may have in certain frequency ranges. Regardless, of the hundreds of amps I’ve ever owned, if someone was looking for a great all-arounder integrated, the EDGE A gets my highest recommendation, even above some of the higher integrated amps I’ve heard and can offer. It performs at the level of quality separates. The EDGE M is double the power and capacitance and is said to add effortlessness and improved control and depth to the sound. I am already very impressed with the way the EDGE A portrays depth, I can only imagine how much better the EDGE M are. I’ll inquire with Cambridge on preparing to acquire an EDGE M this coming week. |
@blisshifi How does the Cambridge Audio Edge M compare to your other amps. Is it a warm sound or more neutral? I am looking for a neutral sounding amp and monos would be great since I have my fav speaker cable gathering dust (very short length). I am looking for something like the Benchmark AHB2 but with more low-end grunt. This is to pair with my Yamaha NS5000. I realized that this speaker can also use power. It sounds very good with the Class A CODA #16, but I am thinking a slightly more neutral sound would be even better. The CODA #16 is phenomenal with my Magnepan LRS+. At the moment, the SimAudio lineup seems to be where I am heading, but I am also looking for lower cost alternatives.
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@j-wall I agree with you on your perception of Cambridge Audio and have shared it myself. I was honestly floored by their EDGE line’s performance, which is why I dedlcided to deal for them. The only items I carry on my floor are their EDGE electronics and one EVO 150, which is more attractive for the lifestyle audience. The EDGE significantly outperforms the EVO on many levels. But yes, while it’s not as hot as Class A or tubes, it’s still about as hot as an A/B amplifier and will use more electricity in idle mode. The qualities you mention, along with smaller form factors and less weight are all great reasons to go Class D. |
@yyzsantabarbara that's good to hear. I was hoping to avoid having the drop that much on a pair. I just saw TMR is now an authorized dealer and they're up for $15k of I remember correctly so figured they still were relevant and compete with the newer stuff. I have seen used pairs pop up for very fair pricing though. |
@blisshifi I saw your mention the Cambridge and have read a few accolades on them. I usually mischaracterize their equipment as budget and I should really give it a shot instead of poor blanket statements. The XA topology is interesting I'll have to check out the consumption figures. My biggest proponent of class D is the heat factor. I've been searching for an amp that cuts the heat, but still sounds good which is why I've landed on the Atma-sphere's. Lowest heat rating from a specification page that I've found and supporting a small USA company is a plus. |
@j-wall The M-200 is largely similar in design to the A 200 but from what I understand. it is not simply a bridged version of the A 200, but optimized to deliver even against more difficult impedance loads. I have heard the M 200 with the DAC 200 with the T+A Talis S 300 speakers in someone’s home. I have similar equipment and speakers here on my floor except for having the A 200 and not the M 200. Unfortunately room and setup plays a major factor. His room was “alive”, completely untreated, with speakers only less than two feet from the wall, whereas my room is treated and speakers have much more room to breathe. I don’t feel like I got an understanding of the true performance of the M 200 in his room, but I would say the sonic signature is more similar than it is alike. I’ll note that I was being critical on my previous post on the A 200 and that I sometimes lack awareness of how critical I am being. My comments on qualms are merely based against very much more expensive amplifiers. For its price range, it gets really close to being endgame as long as you like the sonic presentation of T+A gear. I should also note that I want to be able to compare any GaN amps I can get my hands on against the T+A A 200 so I understand the performance differences in each. I agree with @yyzsantabarbara that the Mola Mola monos are old news and there are better amps for cheaper. It’s not Class D, but as I have encouraged higher in the thread, the Cambridge EDGE series right now has my favorite cost-to-performance components. The amplifiers do not replace my $40K T+A HV series components, but I could very well live with them and they are a fraction of the price. Their Class XA topology is interesting and they deliver an incredible blend of musicality (albeit slightly less soulful as T+A), and more incision / detail in a way that is very holographic, all while having the qualities of a Class A amplifier. |
@blisshifi gotcha. Is the A Vs M just a monoblocks differential or is there any difference to build? I'd definitely be interested if you get to hear a pair. I've been curious about the Mola Mola class D, but $15k is a little too steep for me to experiment. |
@j-wall I did mention the M 200 monos earlier in this thread. I am a T+A dealer and also have the A 200 amplifier on the floor. I may add the M 200 for my floor in the near future. The A 200 does not sound like a typical Class D amp. It is quite musical, very big sounding, with a wide stage despite it being incredibly linear. Like much T+A equipment, it does a good job of refining the top end and having a very involving midrange. My only qualms with the A 200 is that 1) the presentation is slightly more forward than other amps, and I’ve found it harder to get truly great depth way past the speakers with them (perhaps additional positioning could solve for this), and 125wpc into 8 Ohm isn’t enough to drive some of the more demanding speakers on my floor. The M 200 might be a good solve for this as the extra power may improve the control at the frequency response, which tends to result in a better capability of depicting the sense of space. For me, I just want to have hands-on experience with some of the later developments in GaNFET amp design. I’m not expecting to be mind blown, but I am prepared to be surprised, especially for the cost-to-performance ratio. |
@blisshifi looks like T+A makes those class D M200 amps in monoblocks and they sell for $10k. I'm going for Atma-sphere's class D first, but these t+a have peaked my interest to compare them for sure. |
@mbmi What is the sound of these 2 that make it the best. I only know the T+A HV amps (and stack). Slightly warm sound but my ears like my CODA #16 more. I would assume the T+A Class D Purifi based amp is not at the same level as the T+A HV amps. I never heard the AAVIK. |
@blisshifi I send you a PM. |
Thanks @orchardaudio. I submitted an inquiry through your contact form yesterday, FYI. |
I found @nickintroy’s evaluation surprising as I have a number of customers that replaced their H390s with the Ultras. |
@nickintroy Which one did you try, Rev 1.0 or Rev 2.0? Did you have one with an upgraded power supply? In what ways is the Hegel better? Earlier in this thread I mentioned I was impressed with the Cambridge EDGE A. There has been more than one review where it compares that amp to a Hegel H590 which is $12K or so, and it seems the Cambridge outperforms the Hegel. If you’re saying an even lower tiered Hegel beats the Starkrimson, that’s eye-opening and makes me want to drop it from my consideration set. |
Ralph is in in the room. Cool. Met him at Axpona. Great guy with great stories. Thanks to jeffseight for introducing me to Ralph. As an update. I'm still running Orchard Audio on my Center and Surrounds. I got a killer deal on a pair of Black Ice F100's that I couldn't pass up. https://photos.app.goo.gl/9Te5RTN1NUyC9G3NA I've also listened to a pair of Atmas-Phere Amps that Ralph designed on a pair of PS Audio FR30's. They are a good match. |
The first few watts are always the best...then its always down hill from there as the volume goes up. Playing at low volume does not require a lot of watts so most any good quality amp should do well. As I think mentioned earlier, human hearing and Fletcher-Munson is teh key issue for good sound at low volumes in most cases. FInding an amp at most any realistic cost that can deliver enough power for low volume is just not practically a problem.
Now in teh case of high efficiency speakers, where the effects of just a few watts gets magnified, it is more of an issue perhaps but so also is noise. Easy cases like low volume is where measurements are your friend in particular. That is the only way to truly know what performs best OBJECTIVELY or better than others. Subjectively, anything is possible. A poor quality overly bright amp may sound better at low volume due to aforementioned Fletcher-Munson, but crank up teh volume and be prepared for greater chance of ear bleed.
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My findings concur with that. All my Class D amps are dead quiet, perhaps all teh quietest I have ever owned in 50 years, from my largest and most costly in teh Cambridge Evo 150 (Hypex Ncore) to the smallest in my little $80 Fosi integrated (TI chip) and everything in between including a somewhat older Bel Canto c5i and the 4 in my Vanatoo Transparent One active speakers. Even the oldest and most costly BEl Canto ref1000m 500w/ch monoblocks the Evo replaced were always dead quiet and all excellent at low volumes, though perhaps just a tad rolled off in the high end. These are all with typical average not high efficiency speakers which typically are more sensitive to any noise in the signal. |
I can't think of a reason why they wouldn't work just fine. For starters class D amps tend to be low noise. I run mine on speakers that are 98dB and they work fine at low levels. |
@oceanandmountains I have a Peachtree GaN1 driving Spendor S3/5R2 speakers in a small room (12'x15'). I love to listed to vocals at low volume - think Melody Gardot - at night with the lights low and a snifter of scotch. Actually, to my surprise, the GaN1 with the Spendors is magic at low volumes. Very precise, but the opposite of fatiguing. In fact, they draw me into the music; attention is very pleasantly rewarded. Best of luck. |
@blisshifi, ok. feel free to reach out any time. |
Actually, @atmasphere I was just reading the other A’Gon thread on your amps and came across a post on why certain upgrades aren’t made largely because they won’t be audible due to the high amount of feedback you run through the amps. If that’s the primary reason, no further need to elaborate, but if you do have suggestions on upgrades you do offer or consider offering, let us know. |
@atmasphere Do you think you’ll offer optional upgrades to your Class D amps in the same way that you do for your OTLs? If not, I’d be curious to hear your reasons (e.g. you feel they are performing optimally regardless of cost). @ricevs Thanks for providing context on your mods. I myself have performed a number of mods, mostly across tube-based equipment with great success. I’ve done similar things as you list - replacing caps or adding bypass caps, upgrading wiring and chassis connector parts / IECs. The reason I ask on the ease of the GaN modules over others was that I saw you mostly modded GaN amps and wondered if ease was a reason, but it seems you prefer to start with quality, and that makes sense.
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@orchardaudio Thanks for the info on demoing your unit. That said, it’s the Rev 1.0 unit. I almost bought a similar one from Mark, who contacted you with details earlier this week. I may sign up to evaluate it, but I’d be more interested in trying out your maxxed out Rev 2.0 given the stated benefits you’ve documented on it. I’ll contact you direct to learn more about the differences and see if it’s still worth evaluating the demo unit. Much appreciated! |
@oceanandmountains I have a number of customers using my 150W amps with speakers that are 100dB plus, I think one guy even has speakers that are ~110 dB. I have only heard good things from these customers. @rajugsw uses my 500W amps with Cornwall IV’s... it’s a room-shaking sound when loud and sounds very good at low volumes too, I can personally comment on this one as I have heard his system myself. Here is a picture of it: |
