What are the best GaN Amplifiers available today?


There have been a number of threads discussing the wonder of GaN and some of the individual amplifiers that have caught peoples attention, including those from AGD, Atma-Sphere, Peachtree, LSA, etc. Has anyone done a shootout against two or more GaN amps? If so, which did you prefer, and why? And on what speakers?

Also, of the one you preferred, do you prefer it over every other amplifier you’ve ever heard? If not, what non-GaN amp do you enjoy more?

128x128Ag insider logo xs@2xblisshifi

@blisshifi My friend Andy Miles is an Aavik and Borreson dealer. I heard Aavik gear against Mola Mola and I also heard all the Audionet stuff. He uses Mola Mola Kalugas and Makua on his Borreson O5’s with a Lampizator Horizon DAC and an Aurender W20SE. He uses an Aavik I 280 integrated on his YG Carmel 2. The Aavik DAC is decent but
I never heard the T+A stuff since no dealers really are carrying them much. My Audionet dealer has hear T+A over in Germany and the Audionet gear he said has just more control over the drivers and is cleaner.
I also heard the Gryphon Distributor basically say T+A

is huge in Germany and good until you get to the REALLY high end stuff Gryphon does and the Apex and Commander crushes the T+A in the very high end. He is also biased and I never heard the Gryphon too stuff just their cheaper older

muddy mosfet gear before they switched to bipolar transistors.
I also was unimpressed with AGD stuff. My favorite amp is the new Krell 400 watt class A amp. Nothing is a better package for 35k until you get to the Audionet Heisenburg.

My other friend who is a reviewer for the Absolute Sound also has a Pilium Stack. That stuff is between Aavik and Audionet. It’s very good but quirky…there is no soft start to turn it on. 

@yyzsantabarbara I'm surprised you've never heard the Aavik. Last year I purchased the Aavik U-280 integrated amplifier, which is basically Aavik's integrated amp (I-280) and DAC (D-280) in a single chassis. After owning several tube and solid state amps (including Audio Research, Luxman amongst many others) at various price points, I can safely say that this Aavik amp has surpassed my expectations. It has the three dimensional holographic sound of tubes but also the detail, clarity and bass slam that only very excellent SS amps provide. It is also simultaneously musical -- as in it draws me into the music. To this date, no other amp has had an iron grip on my Joseph Audio Perspective2 speakers like the Aavik does. The dealer I worked with provides free in-home auditions, of course you pay shipping but only in case you decide to not keep it. One of the best audio decisions I've made in a long time ... my electric bill agrees with this sentiment as well :)

 

@yyzsantabarbara .....I don't own the T+A but do own the Aavik U-150 integrated Class D Amp. The Soundstage is the Deepest I've ever heard ( if you don't like Forward)  The width also extends way beyond the physical speakers. It plays with delicacy and Authority. the most important thing is that I love how it Draws me right into the music....Even at low volume.....The T+A I've only read how good it is.

@yyzsantabarbara Ha! All good on the T+A comment. I used to think T+A was on the warm side but I realize it’s more prominent in their HV series DACs (also controllable through the DAC filters) vs their amplification and preamplification. 

Bear in mind the EDGE M are not Class D, heavier at 50+ lbs each and will heat as much as a Class AB amp. If that is suitable, then yes, definitely try!

I am the person that said the HV sounds a little warm, which most people like. I think it sounds like the amazing KRELL Duo XD (owned before) that I have raved about.  However, I do not think it would pair well with the NS5000 that I have now. I can get a used KRELL Dou 300XD for $6K. It would be very good for sure but maybe not great.

I do know the Vivid Kaya 90. I demoed it with the NS5000 and Magico A3. The NS5000 was the worst sounding of the 3, but I guessed correctly that it sounded bad because of the glass walled room + furniture I heard it in.

I think I should hear this Edge M before I send 2x more on the SimAudio.

 

 

 

 

Sadly I don’t have the EDGE M - only the EDGE A integrated and EDGE NQ Streaming DAC Preamp. The integrated and the EDGE W power amp are identical in design aside from the identical volume stage found in the EDGE NQ also being present in the EDGE A. I am hoping to order the EDGE M in the next month or two, but they are in a queue behind some other gear my business needs to fund.

I would say that the performance of the EDGE A is very linear, even more than the T+A A 200, whose measurements show its frequency response to be truly linear. I wouldn’t characterize it as warm at all, though one review mentioned that. I would say there is a musicality / soulfulness to it that may be characterized as smooth in delivery, but it is not warm or rich compared to T+A electronics. This is not to say that T+A is warm (I actually disagree with the poster who said T+A is warm - I find the HV Series DAC to be very rich with harmonics and tonally dense in the best way possible, but the HV amp and power supply is incredibly neutral, but refined and will reveal whatever sonic signature is otherwise in the chain).

The EDGE is incredibly revealing, less effortless/refined than the T+A electronics as well. I typically prefer highly refined electronics, but in this case, the way the EDGE images and engages is I believe close to being unparalleled in its class.

With a few speakers, I didn’t feel like the EDGE A’s amplification was lacking at all. This includes the Vivid Kaya 90, Legacy Audio Signature SE, and Scansonic MB-5B. The amp paired especially well with the Legacy and Vivid speakers. With Borresen 02 and T+A Solitaire S 530, I started to lose a little bit of control when over 95db peaks in a medium to large sized room (19x23 with ceiling slant up to 18ft). I rarely ever listen that loud, but it is part of my normal evaluation procedure. This is likely due to the impedance dips these speakers may have in certain frequency ranges. Regardless, of the hundreds of amps I’ve ever owned, if someone was looking for a great all-arounder integrated, the EDGE A gets my highest recommendation, even above some of the higher integrated amps I’ve heard and can offer. It performs at the level of quality separates.

The EDGE M is double the power and capacitance and is said to add effortlessness and improved control and depth to the sound. I am already very impressed with the way the EDGE A portrays depth, I can only imagine how much better the EDGE M are. I’ll inquire with Cambridge on preparing to acquire an EDGE M this coming week.

@blisshifi How does the Cambridge Audio Edge M compare to your other amps. Is it a warm sound or more neutral? I am looking for a neutral sounding amp and monos would be great since I have my fav speaker cable gathering dust (very short length). I am looking for something like the Benchmark AHB2 but with more low-end grunt. This is to pair with my Yamaha NS5000.

I realized that this speaker can also use power. It sounds very good with the Class A CODA #16, but I am thinking a slightly more neutral sound would be even better. The CODA #16 is phenomenal with my Magnepan LRS+.

At the moment, the SimAudio lineup seems to be where I am heading, but I am also looking for lower cost alternatives.

 

@j-wall I agree with you on your perception of Cambridge Audio and have shared it myself. I was honestly floored by their EDGE line’s performance, which is why I dedlcided to deal for them. The only items I carry on my floor are their EDGE electronics and one EVO 150, which is more attractive for the lifestyle audience. The EDGE significantly outperforms the EVO on many levels. But yes, while it’s not as hot as Class A or tubes, it’s still about as hot as an A/B amplifier and will use more electricity in idle mode. The qualities you mention, along with smaller form factors and less weight are all great reasons to go Class D. 

@yyzsantabarbara that's good to hear. I was hoping to avoid having the drop that much on a pair. I just saw TMR is now an authorized dealer and they're up for $15k of I remember correctly so figured they still were relevant and compete with the newer stuff. I have seen used pairs pop up for very fair pricing though. 

@blisshifi I saw your mention the Cambridge and have read a few accolades on them. I usually mischaracterize their equipment as budget and I should really give it a shot instead of poor blanket statements. The XA topology is interesting I'll have to check out the consumption figures. My biggest proponent of class D is the heat factor. I've been searching for an amp that cuts the heat, but still sounds good which is why I've landed on the Atma-sphere's. Lowest heat rating from a specification page that I've found and supporting a small USA company is a plus. 

@j-wall The M-200 is largely similar in design to the A 200 but from what I understand. it is not simply a bridged version of the A 200, but optimized to deliver even against more difficult impedance loads. I have heard the M 200 with the DAC 200 with the T+A Talis S 300 speakers in someone’s home. I have similar equipment and speakers here on my floor except for having the A 200 and not the M 200. Unfortunately room and setup plays a major factor. His room was “alive”, completely untreated, with speakers only less than two feet from the wall, whereas my room is treated and speakers have much more room to breathe. I don’t feel like I got an understanding of the true performance of the M 200 in his room, but I would say the sonic signature is more similar than it is alike.

I’ll note that I was being critical on my previous post on the A 200 and that I sometimes lack awareness of how critical I am being. My comments on qualms are merely based against very much more expensive amplifiers. For its price range, it gets really close to being endgame as long as you like the sonic presentation of T+A gear. I should also note that I want to be able to compare any GaN amps I can get my hands on against the T+A A 200 so I understand the performance differences in each.

I agree with @yyzsantabarbara that the Mola Mola monos are old news and there are better amps for cheaper. It’s not Class D, but as I have encouraged higher in the thread, the Cambridge EDGE series right now has my favorite cost-to-performance components. The amplifiers do not replace my $40K T+A HV series components, but I could very well live with them and they are a fraction of the price. Their Class XA topology is interesting and they deliver an incredible blend of musicality (albeit slightly less soulful as T+A), and more incision / detail in a way that is very holographic, all while having the qualities of a Class A amplifier.

@blisshifi gotcha. Is the A Vs M just a monoblocks differential or is there any difference to build? I'd definitely be interested if you get to hear a pair. I've been curious about the Mola Mola class D, but $15k is a little too steep for me to experiment.

@j-wall I did mention the M 200 monos earlier in this thread. I am a T+A dealer and also have the A 200 amplifier on the floor. I may add the M 200 for my floor in the near future. The A 200 does not sound like a typical Class D amp. It is quite musical, very big sounding, with a wide stage despite it being incredibly linear. Like much T+A equipment, it does a good job of refining the top end and having a very involving midrange. My only qualms with the A 200 is that 1) the presentation is slightly more forward than other amps, and I’ve found it harder to get truly great depth way past the speakers with them (perhaps additional positioning could solve for this), and 125wpc into 8 Ohm isn’t enough to drive some of the more demanding speakers on my floor. The M 200 might be a good solve for this as the extra power may improve the control at the frequency response, which tends to result in a better capability of depicting the sense of space.

For me, I just want to have hands-on experience with some of the later developments in GaNFET amp design. I’m not expecting to be mind blown, but I am prepared to be surprised, especially for the cost-to-performance ratio.

@blisshifi looks like T+A makes those class D M200 amps in monoblocks and they sell for $10k. I'm going for Atma-sphere's class D first, but these t+a have peaked my interest to compare them for sure. 

If we're talking THE BEST, regardless of price...Aavik and T+A.

@mbmi What is the sound of these 2 that make it the best. I only know the T+A HV amps (and stack). Slightly warm sound but my ears like my CODA #16 more. I would assume the T+A Class D Purifi based amp is not at the same level as the T+A HV amps.

I never heard the AAVIK. 

I found @nickintroy’s evaluation surprising as I have a number of customers that replaced their H390s with the Ultras.

@blisshifi
The configuration that he used was a V2 with a single power supply and upgraded capacitance ($3050 MSRP)

@nickintroy Which one did you try, Rev 1.0 or Rev 2.0? Did you have one with an upgraded power supply? In what ways is the Hegel better?

Earlier in this thread I mentioned I was impressed with the Cambridge EDGE A. There has been more than one review where it compares that amp to a Hegel H590 which is $12K or so, and it seems the Cambridge outperforms the Hegel. If you’re saying an even lower tiered Hegel beats the Starkrimson, that’s eye-opening and makes me want to drop it from my consideration set. 

I tried orchard starkrisen, if you never compare it you’ll like it it is very good but my Hegel h360 is much better 

Ralph is in in the room. Cool. Met him at Axpona. Great guy with great stories. Thanks to jeffseight for introducing me to Ralph.

As an update. I'm still running Orchard Audio on my Center and Surrounds. I got a killer deal on a pair of Black Ice F100's that I couldn't pass up. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9Te5RTN1NUyC9G3NA

I've also listened to a pair of Atmas-Phere Amps that Ralph designed on a pair of PS Audio FR30's. They are a good match. 

I would think low-volume performance in Class D amps is not solely reliant on low noise (albeit that being a huge factor), but also the amount of attention in delivering the appropriate quality and control in those first few watts?

The first few watts are always the best...then its always down hill from there as the volume goes up.

Playing at low volume does not require a lot of watts so most any good quality amp should do well.

As I think mentioned earlier, human hearing and Fletcher-Munson is teh key issue for good sound at low volumes in most cases. FInding an amp at most any realistic cost that can deliver enough power for low volume is just not practically a problem.

 

Now in teh case of high efficiency speakers, where the effects of just a few watts gets magnified, it is more of an issue perhaps but so also is noise.

Easy cases like low volume is where measurements are your friend in particular. That is the only way to truly know what performs best OBJECTIVELY or better than others. Subjectively, anything is possible. A poor quality overly bright amp may sound better at low volume due to aforementioned Fletcher-Munson, but crank up teh volume and be prepared for greater chance of ear bleed.

Fletcher Munson Curves

 

 

I would think low-volume performance in Class D amps is not solely reliant on low noise (albeit that being a huge factor), but also the amount of attention in delivering the appropriate quality and control in those first few watts?

I can’t think of a reason why they wouldn’t work just fine. For starters class D amps tend to be low noise. I run mine on speakers that are 98dB and they work fine at low levels.

My findings concur with that. All my Class D amps are dead quiet, perhaps all teh quietest I have ever owned in 50 years, from my largest and most costly in teh Cambridge Evo 150 (Hypex Ncore) to the smallest in my little $80 Fosi integrated (TI chip) and everything in between including a somewhat older Bel Canto c5i and the 4 in my Vanatoo Transparent One active speakers. Even the oldest and most costly BEl Canto ref1000m 500w/ch monoblocks the Evo replaced were always dead quiet and all excellent at low volumes, though perhaps just a tad rolled off in the high end. These are all with typical average not high efficiency speakers which typically are more sensitive to any noise in the signal.

How do these various GaN amplifiers perform at low volume (ideally, when paired with speakers known for low volume performance, e.g. horns, BBC monitors, etc).

I can't think of a reason why they wouldn't work just fine. For starters class D amps tend to be low noise. I run mine on speakers that are 98dB and they work fine at low levels.

@oceanandmountains  I have a Peachtree GaN1 driving Spendor S3/5R2 speakers in a small room (12'x15').  I love to listed to vocals at low volume - think Melody Gardot - at night with the lights low and a snifter of scotch.  Actually, to my surprise, the GaN1 with the Spendors is magic at low volumes.  Very precise, but the opposite of fatiguing.  In fact, they draw me into the music; attention is very pleasantly rewarded.  Best of luck.

Actually, @atmasphere I was just reading the other A’Gon thread on your amps and came across a post on why certain upgrades aren’t made largely because they won’t be audible due to the high amount of feedback you run through the amps. If that’s the primary reason, no further need to elaborate, but if you do have suggestions on upgrades you do offer or consider offering, let us know.

@atmasphere Do you think you’ll offer optional upgrades to your Class D amps in the same way that you do for your OTLs? If not, I’d be curious to hear your reasons (e.g. you feel they are performing optimally regardless of cost).

@ricevs Thanks for providing context on your mods. I myself have performed a number of mods, mostly across tube-based equipment with great success. I’ve done similar things as you list - replacing caps or adding bypass caps, upgrading wiring and chassis connector parts / IECs. The reason I ask on the ease of the GaN modules over others was that I saw you mostly modded GaN amps and wondered if ease was a reason, but it seems you prefer to start with quality, and that makes sense. 

 

@orchardaudio Thanks for the info on demoing your unit. That said, it’s the Rev 1.0 unit. I almost bought a similar one from Mark, who contacted you with details earlier this week. I may sign up to evaluate it, but I’d be more interested in trying out your maxxed out Rev 2.0 given the stated benefits you’ve documented on it. I’ll contact you direct to learn more about the differences and see if it’s still worth evaluating the demo unit. Much appreciated!

@oceanandmountains I have a number of customers using my 150W amps with speakers that are 100dB plus, I think one guy even has speakers that are ~110 dB.

I have only heard good things from these customers.

@rajugsw uses my 500W amps with Cornwall IV’s... it’s a room-shaking sound when loud and sounds very good at low volumes too, I can personally comment on this one as I have heard his system myself. Here is a picture of it:

How do these various GaN amplifiers perform at low volume (ideally, when paired with speakers known for low volume performance, e.g. horns, BBC monitors, etc).

Full disclosure: as I mentioned in another thread, I heard and very much liked the R1000 driving TADs at low volume, but I suspect that machine, because of Panasonic’s capacity and the Technics brand’s relative lack of cachet, is something of an outlier (and therefore likely a bargain too).

Thanks in advance for any info.

All power supplies have a sound. "Properly designed" is not a static thing. The more you know (by listening tests) the more you know that changing one cap or diode or whatever on a power supply makes a serious difference in sound.....as I stated before, how you mount a linear power transformer makes a sonic difference. One advantage of linear power supplies is that they are simple (especially, if unregulated). So there is less listening tests to do. Switching supplies are lighter and take less space....they also run at higher frequencies so there is no 60 hz ripple to filter but they need high frequency filtering....hence, usually an inductor is series with the output.

I learned a lot about how parts effect sound in the early 80s when designing a power supply for the Sota turntable.....this was a 30 volt pre-regualtor. There was already a 12 volt regulator inside the turntable and all it was doing was spinning a belt with a motor. But every single thing I did to this 30V pre-regualor changed the sound.....even the power cord.......what was really interesting was all 4 power transformers I tried had completely different sounds. What a crazy game this is. So, what is properly designed? Is it something you do with theory or do you have to listen like crazy?.......only to find out later in time there is even a better way to get better sound......it never ends.

The best amps to mod are the ones that sound the best stock. I modded the latest IcePower IceEdge ones.....but would not recommend it or any other IcePower modules......they are not bad....just not as good as: the VTV amps using the Purifi modules or latest Hypex NCX500 modules, the VTV D300 GaN amp, the new Nilai amps, the Orchard amps, the LSA Voyager and all the Peachtree GaN amps. All these sound great stock......and much better modified. Of course, the Atmasphere amps would sound much better modded but usually if someone spends that kind of money they are afraid of mods.....plus they would not be manufacturer approved.

The two main types of mods I do are parts replacement and also parts removal (most gear has parts that are not needed that mess up the sound....for instance, all the hardware on a toroidal transformer........or extra switches, connectors, and wire, etc. not needed). I also damp things, add mass and also can add modified Wima bypass caps on the power supply....etc.

I found out later that Class D amps and linear power supplies don’t really go hand in hand, for reasons I forget why.

@blisshifi 

There isn't a reason. The kind of power supply makes no difference if its properly designed. We use a linear supply in our amp.

Thanks guys. I’d love to be able to demo the Atma-Sphere monos before. Not sure if I mentioned on this thread, but I’ve owned Ralph’s MA-1 and S-30 OTLs in the past and both were quite good. He’s only about 30-35 min from me, so I’ll try to ping him and see what might be possible.

@ricevs In your experience, given your mods, have you found GaN amps to be more accessible to mod vs other ICEpower, Hypex or Purifi modules? In listing the mods you apply, the one that seems to be done on the power supplies or boards themselves are the cap replacements, and everything else seems to be wiring and chassis mount parts, is that correct?

If you buy Atma-Spehere class D mono blocks, do yourself a favor: bin the stock power cables and purchase 2 Shunyata Venom V10 NR power cables. You can thank me later. More/better bass. Speakers disappear easier, improved vocals.
“Cool Blue Reason” from the band “Cake” is a trip. The intro spins around my room and now goes behind my head. Awesomeness!

Technics SE R1 plus its SU-R1 digital front end.....someone A/Bed it with the Su R1000 and said it was noticeably better.  It has giant linear power supply.  The first GaN amp available and maybe still the best?  This baby uses GaNs and switches at 1.5 meg.

https://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/technics-r1-reference-system/

You have the Merrill GaN amps.....not much noise from them lately.

Java hifi in New Zealand

https://www.javahifi.com/home

Linear power supplies are fine with class D amps......Atmasphere uses linear power supplies.

Modified Purifi and Hypex amps are great too....and they use mosfets on the output.

 

Ok, just for tracking purposes, these are all the amps I’ve seen people list out:

  • Orchard Audio Starkrimson Stereo Ultra (as well as their others)
  • Peachtree GAN400 (as well as GAN1 and Carina)
  • Atma-Sphere Class D
  • LSA Voyager 350
  • AGD Productions amps (Audion, Tempo, Solo, Duet, Gran Vivace)
  • Technics SU-R1000 integrated

Are these pretty much all the highest regarded GaN amps out there or are we missing any from this list?

Since this thread has started, I’ve looked into a few amps. The fully-upgraded Starkrimson Ultra 2.0 seems appealing, as well as Atma-Sphere Class D monos and the AGD Solo monoblocks. I would love to be able to demo one or more of these against my reference electronics, which would be the $40K T+A A 3000 power amp with the T+A PS 3000 HV power supply. This combo has been very difficult for me to best with anything else, though I have found a few more affordable amps that simply have a completely different but almost equally as enjoyable presentation. The T+A stack is one of the most natural sounding amps I’ve ever heard with some wonderful bloom considering it is solid state. It has similar richness to a high powered, big tube SET amp I owned years back, but it outperformed in many other ways in that it isn’t rounded at the frequency extremes and can control just about any speaker out there regardless of load. I love this amp so much that T+A became the first brand I sought when I decided to start my dealership business.

More recently, I have been incredibly surprised with the Cambridge EDGE A integrated amplifier that I got for my floor in June. Its performance is incisive, yet still musical, and it does a wonderful job of presenting a deep, holographic stage. Over prolonged listening, it becomes more obvious that it doesn’t control speakers as well as the T+A stack. There is less bloom, and music at times can sound just a tad more clinical - but to many, it may still may be on the warm side of neutral. For $6500 including a built-in DAC, this unit is a sleeper that I could probably live with.

I’ve compared both these units to numerous other amps, though I haven’t had a ton of Class D amps in possession. The two I’ve played with are a Mivera PurePower SE which uses the ICEpower 1200AS2 board with quality parts and chassis, and the T+A A 200 amplifier, which is the perfect mate for the renowned T+A DAC 200. The ICEpower amp is as expected - incredible control at the frequency extremes with a slightly thin midrange and clinical to borderline fatiguing top end. And despite its power, the output gain doesn’t match some of my other amps. The T+A A 200 is a different beast for being Class D. Built around Purifi modules, the customizations result in the amp having a very organic, but somewhat forward presentation. This amp has more warmth and density to it than a Primaluna EVO 400 amplifier, but I wouldn’t go the distance of calling it colored. It is an incredibly linear amp, and my only wish is that it took better control of hard to drive speakers (T+A does make the M 200 monoblocks now) and that the amp does a better job with depth.

Oh, I did also own a custom Class D amplifier that ran on a very robust linear power supply made with Russian PIO caps, and it was good in my second system when I had it, but it wasn’t a match for other amps I owned at the time. I found out later that Class D amps and linear power supplies don’t really go hand in hand, for reasons I forget why.

I suppose the only way I will know whether one of the GaN amps out there can sway me from what I’ve heard already is to try a few. I’ll admit that the efficiency and control that Class D offers is quite appealing, but I haven’t found any other amps that combine the control and natural presentation of that of the T+A HV series electronics.

I heard the Atmasphere Class D amps at CAF last year and was very impressed with what I heard. It was a sound I think I could easily live with, at least driving the big and I suspect very efficient Classic Audio speakers, which I suspect are a fairly easy load given their affinity with OTL tube amps, , but do not know for sure.. Then I heard the Atmas OTLs briefly after that and the sound was more similar than different from initial impression. I have not seen any measurements yet to assess, but I would be unhappily surprised if measurements turned up anything of generally significant concern with the Atmas Class Ds. No doubt @atmasphere has tons of experience and knows good sound when he hears it.

For design and for synergy measures are fundamental...

Psycho-acoustic is based on measures not only electronical but physiological etc...

To tune a room and to refine a system we need to learn how to listen...

Our ears are also a tool...

I had a Peachtree Nova 300 in the past. Most recently went from my 805a powered tube amp to a set of the class d Atma-Sphere's and life is wonderful. If anyone wants to send me some of their class d's to evaluate/compare to the Atma-Sphere's I'll be glad to do it. 

@mapman… “@invalid, …when I look at measurements, specs, or other objective information, I’m looking as much if not more for red flags ie clear problem areas as I am which measure best…”.

 

In this post I think you did an excellent job of rationally stating what an experienced audiophile with a bit of leaning towards measurements would do. Measurements are just one of many sources to learn more about a component, not by a long shot the only. There are things to be learned, but the bottom line is, what does it sound like. Your views are not remotely ASR like.

Dr. Choueri will approve Atmasphere observation for sure...😊

For me the advise of two experts is enough...

 

The problem we have now is almost as bad: most people including those that make the measurements, fail to understand their significance WRT how the ear/brain system perceives sound.

 

However, the majority are still rather sterile and lacking in dynamics.

I am wondering what is meant by 'dynamics'. IME, most of the time when audiophiles talk about 'dynamics' they are really talking about higher ordered harmonic distortion. Dynamic contrast should come from the recording, not anything else.

In the 1980's all the best measuring equipment was supposed to sound the best and now we know that was not true, maybe in 20 years all the current best measuring equipment will not be considered the best sounding equipment.

​​​​​​@invalid FWIW Dept.: you're talking about measurements made 35-40 years ago or so. Just as any other field of technology, the measurement world has vastly improved. IME sometime in the 1990s, we crossed a threshold where we could finally measure a lot of stuff we were hearing that we could not measure prior. But many audiophiles are still making decisions based on how things were back before that!Imagine trying to surf the web on an Apple 2 of an IBM PC...

The problem we have now is almost as bad: most people including those that make the measurements, fail to understand their significance WRT how the ear/brain system perceives sound.

 

The first person in the world to hear a modded Nilai amp gave me a little feedback today.

" I know I have a lot of break in to go on this one but so far am liking what I'm hearing (replacing a very nice tube amp; too hot in PHX for that right now)".

The Nilai amp is the latest and best amplifier tech from Hypex.....measures very similar to Purifi (both mosfet amps....no Ganfets).  It is available as a kit or assembled.  Lots of great class D right now.  The stock Nilai has terrible wires, output connectors and AC inlet, extra wires and switches and stuff it does not need.....I do other stuff too.  You can see the pic of his modded Nilai amp on my site.  I will be adding more pages this week for the different amps I mod.

  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1exMwmlvRg

@invalid No need to be so absolute. I’ve bought many items just because I had a chance and liked what I heard. I’ve also heard many things that sound uniquely good but don’t measure well. If you can’t hear something you have to go with whatever info is available In order to be able to make an informed decision. Otherwise it’s pure guesswork and the chance of expensive mistakes goes up.