Geoff,
No, I don't "follow". You're still saying that most racks and stands are "terrible", and that is a silly comment.
Vibration Issues / Turntable Decisions
"Don’t use springs, that would negate the suspension system of the Thorens." I would just add this... If the Thoren’s suspension was working properly, you’d have little to no problem now? Why would another layer of (effective) isolation be a bad thing? Would the author of the above quote say the same thing if you had a Minus K under your TT now? To borrow a often read quote from geoffkait... "Hell-ooo!" |
hifiron, Fixing your console to your wall does what, exactly? Your wall is connected to your floor, right? This is the entire issue. ( This would be a (minor) improvement that would be a cause of considerable amount of time/unnecessary work and destruction to your wall). I’d be glad to discuss with you further on a PM if you’d like. I have similar issues and have found ways to achieve excellent results. Good luck. |
Don't use springs...that would negate the suspension system of the Thorens. Fixing the floor from below might be helpful..but a huge pain to do properly. Fix the cabinet to the wall....tight. Use one turnbuckle into the wall, or stick a piece of appropriate size wood between the wall and the cabinet. Cardas blocks under the turntable will help the sound, but fix the footfalls first. |
There are other threads about this very issue you may want to research. The least expensive and maybe most effective option would be to use springs / www.grainger.com rated for your TT’s weight. Using springs will require the need to adjust your TT for level. So a couple of MDF boards with some sort of footer or shims between the bottom board and your current console that allows for level adjustment, the springs between the two boards and your TT on top. This will be very beneficial without messing up your walls, all the while, giving you a taste of the benefits of what good isolation can accomplish for the future. Your other components would benefit from this as well. |
Ditch the stand. Stands and racks are bad news. You know Geoff, I don't mean to be unkind, but I realize now that you are one of those people (there are others) whose job it is to take a position whether it makes sense or not. I guess I would call it being contrary. You of all people, who espouses and even sells different gadgets for isolating/decoupling now makes a blanket comment that stands and racks are bad news. I think that most people who have used one have heard their benefits. I suppose you just enjoy arguing about nonsense. |
Hello Ron, A few questions on the rack build since that is the obvious issue causing the footfall. How is the rack touching the flooring and are there any types of footers between the frame bottom and floor? Is the rack inside the framework hollow or is there any type of bracing? Is the frame 'X' braced? Based on these answers, there could be a solution that will also improve performance of the system entirety. Robert Star Sound |
I agree with Willy, support the floor from underneath first . That is your problem. Stop the amount of deflection there . Except I would support it across the width just in front of where the equipment is and support that on either end right to ground . I’m betting when no one walks on the floor and your in your seat listening your happy with playback so it isn't your table and wall mounts are not always the ideal solution. If the floor has that much deflection and the wall isn't an outside wall without a door in it chances are with a floor that bouncy it will only reduce , not remove the problem completely. |
@hifiron - A few of different approaches.... 1. stiffen the floor - probbly the easiest and most effective You mentioned the room is over a crawl space - go under the floor and screw a few 2 x 6’s under the unit (overlapping it by a couple of joists - simply place the 2 x 6 flat against the joist and put a couple of 3" screws into every joist it crosses - you will be very surprised at how much difference it will make 2. Magnetic Isolation https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74F7odDKL4Y 3. There are a variety of Herbies isolation devices that might work http://herbiesaudiolab.net/special.htm 4. Employ a cushion isolation device under the TT. They can be purchased online https://www.amazon.ca/Auralex-SubDude-II-Subwoofer-Acoustic-Isolation/dp/B00DI5AXNI/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_2... OR are simple to DIY... - Build a box similar in size to TT base about 1.5 inches high - place a bicycle inner tube insude - place a piece of MDF on the inner tube (cut to about 1/4" smaller than the inside dimension of the box - place a piece of granite on top of the MDF The granite will stabilize the TT - the inner tube will absorb the vibration from the floor and will not move the granite - Drawback: you have to pump it up now and again You could probably use the Herbies Medicine Ball in place of the inner tube - no drawback! You really need to address the root cause - buying a different TT or cartridge will not do the trick Hope that helps |
Here is my setup. As you can see the wall-self would look quite odd. I will try securing the cabinet to the back wall, good idea! The TD-150 does go nicely with the Decware equipment, I would like to keep it. https://cdn.pbrd.co/images/GMBMhCy.png Out of curiosity, would there be any benefit to moving to an MC cart or is a 2M Black going to be a great spot to hover around? The MMF 9.3 came with the Eroica LX MC, which was appealing, but of course that also implies a $500-1200 Step-Up Transformer pushing the total upgrade cost a bit up there. |
Do not get rid of your 150, as you have it modded, will be hard to beat. If you can absolutely not use a wall mount, you could also try securing the backside of your stand against the wall by wedging a piece of wood between it and the wall. By doing so it provides a secondary plane for stabilizing the stand and will eliminate 99 percent of the floor wobble. If that works you can then make an adjustable one using a piece of wood, a large bolt and a nut. The cost would be just a few dollars. You would use any shelf side facing the wall on the stand as the anchor point. The higher up the better, but I have had success using lower shelfs, too. |
The cartridge is not the problem, it is your suspended floors and the spring design of your turntable. Your remedy is a turntable wall shelf like the one below. I use one and it eliminates all foot fall problems. There are several brands and price points available the link below is just an example. http://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649225190-target-wall-mount-shelf-for-large-turntables-or-equipme... |
You could try isolating the table on a sub shelf on something like these https://www.audiogon.com/listings/tweaks-townshend-audio-seismic-isolation-pods-isolation-feet-2017-... i also suspect the marble surface is making the problem worse |
Wall mount is an option, but ideal because I have molding that runs around the room at the ideal height so the TT would be quick high and look out of place. Currently it is sitting on a Marble topped console, but the issue is the room is over a crawl space on wood floors, so shockwaves from walking are quite pronounced and travel well. |