Have you taken your meds today?
TO BE OR NOT TO BE the user of a record clamp
I'm going to open a new can of worms that will make you sure, I just can't hear. Please give me good reasons to use a record clamp. I have seen them advertised for thousands of dollars. The best reason I've heard so far is that a certain type will drain any electo-static energy from your LP.
My records are not warped, except for an occasional waver on some when looking at record level at the outer most portion of the it, and those are far and few between. Even then, the clamp has no affect,on flattening out the record. I can see where they may be very useful, when playing a warped LP, but other than that, I see no reason for it's use. I can see where it makes a good solid connection to the platter. I don't have any slip, when the record is playing. Maybe I have it, but just can't see it. Are they like seat belts on a car? Better to use them than not? Are they like a properly mounted speaker. It needs to be very solid? I can understand that. The record more or less becomes part of the platter. They become as one. Be sure to read this last part, because as I'm writing this, I can see where it can actually makes the platter solidly attached to the record. I think I just answered my own question. But thousands of dollars for a clamp? I have talked to several people, trying to explain how tweeks, not matter how small, add them all together an wow.
My records are not warped, except for an occasional waver on some when looking at record level at the outer most portion of the it, and those are far and few between. Even then, the clamp has no affect,on flattening out the record. I can see where they may be very useful, when playing a warped LP, but other than that, I see no reason for it's use. I can see where it makes a good solid connection to the platter. I don't have any slip, when the record is playing. Maybe I have it, but just can't see it. Are they like seat belts on a car? Better to use them than not? Are they like a properly mounted speaker. It needs to be very solid? I can understand that. The record more or less becomes part of the platter. They become as one. Be sure to read this last part, because as I'm writing this, I can see where it can actually makes the platter solidly attached to the record. I think I just answered my own question. But thousands of dollars for a clamp? I have talked to several people, trying to explain how tweeks, not matter how small, add them all together an wow.
26 responses Add your response
Some tables are designed to operate with a clamp! Plus, I have had great results using a J.A. Michell clamp on a REGA P3 with upgraded acrylic platter. So , If you don't Love your record puck/weight/clamp then your using the wrong one :-) http://www.michell-engineering.co.uk/ Matt M |
I have been using the Audio Technica Record Weight that I bought new ($20) in 1978. Presently on my Pioneer PLX1000. Before that on my Ariston RD11S. I like the way it couples the record to the platter. I use it as a matter of habit - like buckling up a seatbelt! Can't hurt! But spending thousands (Shun Moon Brierwood - $3000!) would certainly be foolish! Another clever ploy to cheat the gullible! |
I own a VPI Classic 3 Sig SE and a Townshend Rock 7. Two completely different designs. I use two platter mats, one is a Funk firm 5mm the other is a 1 mm flexible vinyl mat. I use these two together on each tt. I do not use a weight or a clamp. I own a Stillpoint LP1, two VPI SS center weights, two Townshend clamps, BDR clamp. and so on. Sounds better without! |
Some manufacturers do not want you using a clamp (Linn, for example). You did answer your question with the theory of making the record and the platter be one unit (Basis adheres to that, and has a clamp that will tighten around the spindle), but some manufacturers do not agree with that theory and design their turntables accordingly. Personally, when I tried the then-merely expensive (as opposed to now hideously expensive) Shun Mook clamp for one side of a record years ago (it was so wide that the cartridge would bump into it before the end of the lead-out groove), I could not hear any appreciable difference from my Basis clamp, but it was just one record and I'm generally not that attuned to the differences others hear in these things. |
A record clamp and a record weight are two different animals! https://www.gcaudio.com/tips-tricks/record-clamps-and-weights/ |
Like they say, it depends on the table. I have an old Sota Star Saphire that came with a clamp and a platter vacuum system. So, this table was designed for those. I tried the Sota clamp on my TW-Acustic Raven and no, it did not help. The soundstage collapsed inwards. However, that $$$$ Shun Mook clamp on Raven tables is getting praise by some who have used the combination. Kenny |
I've used both a weight with an integral clamp and clamp-only. The weight/clamp works well on my vintage Pioneer PL 15D II. I think because the platter is very light and the weight provides extra mass and stabilization. For the clamps, I've used a couple and the one that I get the best results with is a SOTA Reflex clamp. It adds almost no mass, but the eccentric cam action firmly couples the LP to the platter. I thought they were a bit pricey new ($250 or so), but was patient and picked up one used for about $40. Spending thousands? Not from my wallet, but you'll find a lot of folks here that will disagree. For antistatic, Zerostat is the way to go. Follow the package directions and you'll be set. Good luck & happy listening! |
Like they say, it depends on the table. I have an old Sota Star Saphire that came with a clamp and a platter vacuum system. So, this table was designed for those. I tried the Sota clamp on my TW-Acustic Raven and no, it did not help. The soundstage collapsed inwards. However, that $$$$ Shun Mook clamp on Raven tables is getting praise by some who have used the combination. Kenny |
I own several warped old (but kinda rare) LP's that are very difficult to replace. I use a lightweight Michell record clamp when listening to these LP's. This clamp, when used correctly, allows me to enjoy them when they were unplayable before using the clamp. For an investment of about $50 the Michell is well worth it. Otherwise, I do not use a clamp or record weight (I also own a Bren1 weight, but it hardly sees any use). I believe that the use of a weight or clamp depends on things like system synergy (does it play well with your 'table, etc?) and the condition of your LP's. Cheers, SB |
I used to be a confirmed nonbeliever in weights OR clamps. Then I tried my SOTA reflex clamp on one of my turntables (I don't even remember which one), and I heard a big improvement. I also have the OEM record weight that was supplied with my Kenwood L07D. It weighs maybe 0.5 lbs or less. I use it on my Lenco/BA Mat2 and on my Victor TT101 (and on the L07D which has a stainless steel platter "sheet"). I think the mat (i.e., the surface upon which the LP sits) is a major determinant of whether or not you can gain something by using a weight or clamp. The ear/brain rules this decision. |
miketuason, and possibly handymann, if you demand "scientific proof" then I think you are in the wrong hobby. For how many years now has debate raged over tube/ss, analog/digital, dynamic speakers/planar/horn, and so on? Has there been scientific proof to absolutely resolve any one of those? So why should tt weights or clamps be any different? As may have stated, perceptions can vary from one table to another. Even then, personal preferences can't be eliminated. |
On my Prime I use one of 3 clamps in conjunction with the outer ring and they are, a BDR one piece clamp, a BDR two piece clamp and a Stillpoints LSI, I use the Stillpoints with a Herbies Grungbuster washer that is thinner and wider than the VPI washer, I use both the Black Diamond clamps with the VPI washer. Each one of these bring a different tone to the playback, the Stillpoints being the liveliest, the BDRs darker and the BDRs are somewhat adjustable by the amount of screw down force applied. I have tried several clamps/weights and these are what I have settled on. |
I’m had several clamps and weights that I’ve tried with various TT’s. I’ve yet to hear one that made a sound difference for the better except on a very few albums. Most made the sound a little less involving. A heavy 2 lb. centerweight helped with a mildly warped record, however. I’ve had them that were beautiful to look at and were up to $275 so I haven’t listened to stupid money ones. |
Classic Disc Stabilizers (Record Weights) like Micro Seiki ST-10 is what i use, actually i prefer OEM version made by Micro because it’s a bit lighter than 1kg ST-10. All my reference turntables are Direct Drives with metal mats (CU-500, SAEC SS-300). I don’t want to play records on metal mats without some weight on top. I use ST-10 Disc Stabilizer on Technics SP-10mkII turntable with Micro CU-500 gunmetal mat. Some years ago i’ve discovered some rare Noritake NC-02 ceramic Disc Stabilizer from the oldest Japanese tableware manufacturer founded in 1904. Noritake Company was founded in the village of Noritake, a small suburb near Nagoya. In the 70s they made those Disc Stabilizers for audio market. I like NC-02 Ceramic Stabilizers, they are lightweight compared to Micro ST-10. The Noritake NC-02 mainly used on my Luxman PD-444. I don’t use clamps or weights on my pair of SL1200mkII turntables with felt mats (slipmats), but it is not my main system. |