Swiss Digital Fuse Box - "What headroom sounds like"
Swiss Digital Fuse Box (SDFB) is non-sacrificial overcurrent protection device that serves as a replacement for fuses in audio equipment.
There are four devices in my sound system that I’ve replaced fuses with the SDFB, and its transformative capacity to upgrade sound quality beyond that of fuses has compelled me to write a review. I’m not associated with Verafi Audio, the company that sells them, nor did I receive anything from them as "review units". There’s another thread on Audiogon about them that an audiophile friend referred me to, which got me interested enough to buy them. I am now enamored with the sound of my system in its current state, so I wanted to share my take on one of the more significant steps in how I arrived here.
Before getting into details about its form and function, I want to share my impression of what the Swiss Digital Fuse Box (SDFB) does for sound quality. It makes my components sound like they are operating without any limitation of power. It sounds open and unrestricted across the audio frequency spectrum. The sound is dynamic, detailed, defined, and there a sense of harmony and completeness about it. It’s like my components can now output their full frequency and harmonic potential.
A few things about me... I’m more of an artist than anything. I’ve been a music lover for 35 years and an electric bass player for 15 of those years playing in two bands, with which I was the bass player on one full LP recording and one EP. I’ve recorded, mixed and mastered my own multi-layered solo bass recordings and their backing tracks from sampled percussion using digital audio workstation software. I’ve also fine-tuned two of my custom car audio systems using DSP software and built, tweaked, and tuned a high end home stereo system (yes I said *tuned*, without using DSP) . Given this experience and the resultant development of a keenly perceptive and informed "ear", yet having no formal electrical theory or engineering background, I feel comfortable suggesting that the results of using SDFB can be likened to how audio sounds when the device producing it is operating with ample headroom. What does headroom sound like? The term headroom has different meanings in its use within pro audio recording/engineering and electrical circuitry operation, but they are related in a way that the end result sounds uncompressed, undistorted, fully dynamic, and expresses the sense of the effortlessness of unrestricted flow.
Does this sound like embellishment? It probably does. And I haven’t even mentioned the typical audiophile terms like "inner detail", "layering", or "rock solid imaging", nor have I even mentioned soundstaging attributes yet -- even though all of these qualities have also gone through upgrades due to the SDFB’s being installed. Am I merely in an irrational, excited state because my whole system now sounds much more expensive than it is? I don’t think so. I’ve been using all four SDFB units for three weeks consistently, and the initial excitement phase I was experiencing settled at least a week ago. I also think that the more components a system has which have replaceable fuses, the greater the potential upgrade from replacing each of those fuses with SDFBs. Like I said, I replaced all fuses in four of my audio components (six fuses in total), and there were notable step-up improvements in sonics as I progressively installed each of them.
Now I’ll describe the physicality of the device and how to use it. Then, I’ll try to describe specifics about why my previous fuse setup, which was a combination of Synergistic Research Purple and Master fuses, was completely replaced by SDFBs. These SR fuses were already a major upgrade in sound relative to the stock, generic fuses, and the SDFBs transcended the SR fuses in every discernible way.
These things have two separate parts that work together: 1) a small box that is inserted as the middle of a chain created between an audio component and the electrical outlet from which it draws power, and 2) a solid, cylindrical metal slug (referred to as a "Sluggo") which is the same size as the typical fuse. To install a SDFB, first, with your component off, plug its power cable into the AC socket on one end of the box, and on the other end of the box there is a male IEC connector (C14) which you connect to an outlet using another power cable or an adapter. I’m using a combination of two short, homemade mini-cables, and two generic adapters with my four SDFBs for the best sound (details shared in my Audiogon virtual system). Once the box is connected to a live electrical line, it will go through a brief setup period, and after maybe 8-10 seconds, you’ll hear a clicking sound and the small green LED will stay lit, indicating that charge is now allowed to flow through the box. The second and final step, with the component still off, is to replace the fuse(s) with a Sluggo. The device comes with both copper and brass Sluggos. You can then turn the component on. Don’t replace a fuse with a Sluggo without the SDFB in place because you’ll have no overcurrent protection and you’ll incur the risk of severely damaging your component and/or having a catastrophic fire in the even of a short circuit or other overcurrent scenario.
These units monitor current magnetically, and are calibrated to whatever fuse rating is needed when you order them. They are also calibrated to operate as either slow blow, or fast blow, like a normal fuse. When the set parameters are exceeded (too much current), a relay is switched to the closed position and charge is halted from flowing. Being non-sacrificial, you don’t need to buy a new one, you just unplug it from the outlet for about 30 seconds and it will reset the state. Then it can be plugged back in and reused. There’s no damage done to the device due to the overcurrent condition, unlike a fuse which melts due to high heat. Currently, devices being produced are to be calibrated at 10 amps max, so if there is some crazy high current event, perhaps then it could be damaged. I don’t know. I believe that’s pretty unlikely though. I think I remember reading that there’s a 15 amp version in the works.
There is some inconvenience involved with transitioning to SDFB due to the extra weight of the box (not that heavy, really) and extra length added to the power chain, as well as potentially requiring additional investment in more power cables. I feel that I achieved an optimal result for only about $200 of additional investment by using some DYI cable materials I had available, some high quality plugs to terminate the cable with, and some cheapo adapters from Amazon. For me, dealing with the extra weight and length to the cabling and putting in the work to create the best solution for connecting the SDFBs to my power conditioners has not been a big deal compared to the profound jump in sound quality. Totally worth it.
Before I went all SDFBs, the best configuration I found with SR fuses in my system was one small Master fuse in the LPS that powers the modem and router (I have an all-digital streaming system), two small Master fuses in the DAC, one small Purple fuse in the preamplifier, and two large Purple fuses in the amplifier. It’s worth mentioning that total retail cost of this setup is about 33% more expensive than the retail cost of my final SDFB setup. However, if you choose to buy a bunch of new, expensive power cables to connect your SDFBs, that would quickly become more the more expensive option.
I thought the SR setup sounded great at the time. I was impressed with the top end detail that a few of the Master fuses added to the fuller midrange and mid-bass sound of the Purple fuses which I already had. I’ve seen comments from others on this site in agreement about this. This combination is getting some praise. However, when comparing that sound to the SDFB sound, it was like the SR fuses are stuck at a level of trying to boost certain frequency ranges to make up for how restrictive a fuse really essentially sounds.
How do you improve on a small, low resolution, blurry, drab looking photo? Well, you manipulate it in Photoshop, of course! You try to crank up values of various visual (light-based) metrics to make it more attractive. However, that process will never produce something as close to the original subject as when you start with an ultra-high resolution, high-dynamic range photograph. You can’t "add resolution" to something that is intrinsically underpinned to a state of reduced resolution. To me, this is analogous to the task of starting with the tiny, resistive piece of wire in a fuse and trying to add crystals and various substances of specific resonant frequencies inside and around it to end up with something representative of the innate completeness of the source material.
Comparatively speaking, I was surprised to switch back to the SR setup and find that the soundstage was compressed towards the center. It was like there was a somewhat spherical haziness in center stage from which the sound was straining to emanate from, even with the Master fuses in play. I attribute this sense of "haziness" to a combination of reduced dynamic range, and a distortion of the frequency response coming from the system’s components. If the hypothetical ideal response for a natural sound (assuming the important aspects of room acoustics and one’s hearing quality are held constant) is essentially a linear response from top to bottom in both amplitude and purity, then the sound of the SR setup was now perceived as distorted and a deviation from linearity.
The sound of the SDFB setup is far more natural, far more detailed, and imparts a sense of ease while listening. I’m using all copper Sluggos, as their tonality is more natural to me than the brass versions. The soundstage has opened up with more dimensionality and all of that perceived haziness and limitation of full expression is (seemingly) completely gone. Images became more defined and image positioning is on a more advanced level. I can now perceive the two singers positioned near center and side-by-side in the mix, with a gap of about about a head’s-width between their mouths. This wasn’t perceivable with the SR fuses. The positioning of cymbals on a well recorded drumset are precisely locateable in space. Listening to Russion choral music, I can now hear individual tenor and bass voices and their unique tonal qualities. On one excellent recording of a solo harp, there’s beautiful overtones resonating that I’ve never been able to hear before. The sound is descriptively harmonious.
Over the course of a couple weeks, the sound of these units opened up. To begin, there was some minor coloration of the sound, but I’m not sure I can hear it any more. I think most of it has gone away as the units have burned in. Even with the minor coloration in the beginning, the immediate leap above the SR fuses in sound quality was obvious and highly desirable.
One last thing, I did a rough test of the overcurrent protection functionality, as this is obviously a major thing to get right and have working properly. I’ve been told that most refrigerators pull about 1 amp of current, so I used that as a basis for testing since I don’t have any more sophisticated method (I could use my desktop computer PSU which has a wattage display to achieve more accurate testing, but I’d rather not have its power suddenly cut and risk problems). I have two SDFBs calibrated to trip at levels below 1 amp, and two units calibrated at significantly above 1 amp. With each of the two sub-1A units inline with the fridge’s power cable (doing two test rounds for each unit), they immediately tripped and the fridge’s power was disconnected when I plugged in the power chain into the outlet. For the above-1A units (also did two test rounds each), the units did not cut power, and the fridge turned on and operated normally. I feel like this testing demonstrates enough for me to have a boost in confidence in the overcurrent protection operational integrity.
Being able to safely use solid metal slugs in place of fuses is wholly a paradigm shift in a high end audio system’s sound quality potential. These things deserve attention and I’m grateful to have been pointed to them.
I finally broke down and ordered a SDFB MAX, along with the Snake River Audio Takshaka 8" pig tail and a graphene Sluggo today. I'll probably have everything here with 3 weeks and I also discovered a bonus! The QSA Red and Black fuse gets to stay in the Power Supply of my amp. That one was in place for the PS control unit circuit board, so the aforementioned will be for the (32A rated) main Power Supply fuse. I currently have a Takshaka PC, so the only thing I will hear will be the effect of losing a cheap ceramic 10 dollar fuse and replacing it with a graphene Sluggo and a SDFB MAX.
I sent my SDFB back to get reprogrammed to 5a after finding out my amp does not use a 4a slo blo. Apparently the manual was wrong but my laziness was not in vain as I recently acquired an integrated amp that also uses 5a so it’ll be a win win. This SDFB should be delivered tomorrow if all goes well.
While that was getting worked on I ordered a SDFB w/ graphene sluggo for my Lampi Atlantic dac and that arrived last Friday. The fuse in the dac was a QSA purple and the SDFB just blows it away. From the first hour just great imaging and depth of soundstage and seductive vocals. Bass articulation is also outstanding. Can’t wait for the other SDFB to arrive and hooked up to the integrated.
I’m still just using a short adapter from Amazon but the one for the dac I’ve had plugged into the fridge for a few weeks and it been a great little performer. Got a pigtail from Mark to try but so far the little adapter is doing the job.
Lots of adapter information of late. Peter Madnick and have been ruminating of how to approach this for quite some time. I've got a few minutes while I wait where I am, so why not use the time wisely
Our Adapter uses a cut down version of our Main Stream and SnubWay shell with a "trap door" - inside you will find 2 x 30Amp Audiophile Approved 30-amp Fuse Holders.
We use these as a connection on both the Line and Neutral legs + Ground is passed directly through with serious wire.
The fuse holders allow you to use our Sluggos. This quite literally allows you to TUNE your AC with SDFB and your Mains.
Works SUPER WELL. - we have been fooling around with Graphene (of course) and Super Sluggp... But HP Copper and Brass are also cool.
Showing you our working model here. Pricing to follow - but will stay with our "HUMANE PRICING FORMULA"
Fun stuff... This is The Answer in our opinion
Many thanks "
Mark
OH, we will reprise our Original Black Friday Deal on SDFB this weekend. Lots of people asking...
I’ve had the SDFB for a few weeks and the graphene sluggo has been in place for over a week now and it does feel like I got a new amp. I thought I knew what “better separation of instruments” meant before but this box and sluggo has really shown me what that’s all about. Like grannyring mentioned before I can just listen for hours which is always a good sign that whatever component you’ve added is working well. The other night I actually listened to an entire album nonstop, which I’ve honestly haven’t done in quite a while. It felt like when you’re watching a really good movie with a great storyline and the acting and directing is superb and the time flies by but it feels like it’s only been 15 minutes. I’m only using a cheap adapter from Amazon that was mentioned on the what’s best forum so maybe there’s better performance to be had but I’m happy. Thanks Mark and crew for an excellent product!
Forgive me if this has been asked before. Is the sound performance we hear coming from the sluggo much like we would get from a treated fuse and the box is there for safety or does it also affect what we hear?
Just received the graphene sluggo and I’m already liking it but still really like the copper as well. Still playing with placement of my two mainstreams and one snubway. I may get another snubway before trying another SDFB in the chain.
@t_ramey- please give SDFB at least 40 hours minimum. They will get better and better all the way through to 400 hours. I hope you will try Graphene for sure
@vandy357- I like how you have it set up. There is a lot of talk on this and "whats best" about adaptors instead of Piggies. I'm just fine with that IF mechanically there are no stresses.
I bought a few adaptors already. I'm impressed but hardly OVER THE MOON.
Our plan is for out own adaptor (working name) ACx Tuning - this will be hand constructed in California. Using part of the shell from Main Stream and SnubWay (cut way down) they will be made using TOP GRADE parts.
Both Hot and Neutral will be fitted INTERNALLY with 30 amp fuse holders (again, High Grade only) and these cam be loaded with ANY of our Sluggo variants. This will allow you to "tune" your adaptor for best results. Early tests have yielded an excellent result. - coming soon...
@vandy357 Last night I changed out the short adapter for another power cable because of the concerns treitz3 just mentioned. Couple things I noticed was the regular power cable provided a little more detail but the short adapter seemed to have better bass. With the way I currently have things setup with my amp on the floor I might try putting the short adapter back in but attached to the amp with the SDFB and then my regular power cable from there to the power conditioner ( psm156). This way I can possibly put something better suited to prop up, if need be, the SDFB from the floor up.
So I’m not quite 24 hrs in from having the SDFB plugged in and there’s not a big difference I’m hearing from just having the SR Purple fuse that came with the amp but I do hear a more relaxed sound. Waiting for the depth of soundstage to kick in. And I’m already contemplating getting the Graphene Sluggo to replace the copper I ordered but I’ll wait it out for a few more days to see how things change.
I have all my power cords plugged up to a PS Audio P20 which is sitting on the floor. All of my SDFB's are hooked up to the P20 with piggy tails that I bought from Mark, the way they come to rest behind the P20 does not put any stress what so ever on the power cords. This may not be ideal, but it works for me.
@ozzy- Good morning to you. You had mentioned this -
"So, I would like to see a SDFB product where no extra items are necessary. Just attach the favorite power cord, plug it in and play, (either way from the wall or at the component end)."
I had thought about that and quickly dismissed this as an option (for me). Here's why. With the sheer weight of some power cords, along with any kind of drop in height until said cord hits the ground or is supported again, this adds a lot of strain on the IEC connector (or the wall outlet).
The fact that the supported weight sticks out that much further (say, 4" because of the length of the SDFB) before you even add said PC doesn't help matters either. That puts an incredible strain on a component IEC. Especially if there is a significant drop in elevation with the PC.
Basically, the fulcrum point would be either the wall outlet or the IEC. YMMV, but that is unacceptable to me. Too much risk for damage or it pulling out from either weight, vibration or you may not even notice if you are working on another cable replacement and the weight of that cable somehow rests or disturbs the connection, who's fulcrum point has already been compromised.
Basically, I wasn't too comfortable with that scenario. FWIW.
Appreciate the reply vandy357. I got it in place and it’s hanging there for the time being. Thinking of getting something to prop it up so the tension doesn’t loosen over time.
Mark recommends connecting it just like you thought, I tried both ways just to see if there was a difference in sound but could not hear any difference. I ended up with them plugged in the way Mark recommends. Hope this helps.
So I ended up getting a SDFB for my amp and was wondering if it matters what end the box should be at. I got a short adapter plug and was thinking of plugging it at the power conditioner and my existing power cable from there to the amp.
After being impressed with the Vera-Fi mainstream product I’d like to take a turn at the SDFB. I was actually reading up on all the fuse threads as I’ve been out of the game for a few years and wanted to upgrade my dac’s fuse but then remembered Mark has this great component.
Any recommendation on where a good start to try the SDFB? Was considering the dac but is the amp a better spot to try first for the most impact? Sounds like everybody is accumulating one for each appropriate piece but I’d like to start with one and go from there. Any feedback is appreciated.
I must add that even with my AC connection suggestion for improvements, the Swiss Digital Fuse Box is still one of the best innovative and creative products produced in a long time.
It produces excellent sound quality, offers component protection, and is priced very well.
Thanks Mark. Most of the info on "What’s Best" forum is still about using adapters, jumpers etc. It still will remain the weakest link. And many of the suggestion’s costs way more than the SDFB.
So, I would like to see a SDFB product where no extra items are necessary. Just attach the favorite power cord, plug it in and play, (either way from the wall or at the component end).
We are actually considering several ideas. There is a thread on What's Best talking about several ideas etc.
Not asleep at the switch here - I promise. We have three new products coming out next month. Just received CE and FCC on all of them so now it's time to get back to SDB and work on I/O
Yesterday, I ran my AQ Dragon power cord directly without the SDFB. Just the graphene slug was installed.
Now to me, it seemed to be better. But I think it is because I am using an inferior jumper pc in the chain. The AQ Dragon power cord is a fantastic pc in its own right and should not be restricted in the flow of energy.
I do wish Mark would change the design of the Fuse box to an IEC male on one end so it could be inserted directly into the component, or the other end to have an AC blade male to plug directly into the wall without having to use a jumper pc.
My third Swiss box is now in place on my Innuos Pulsar streamer. Another gain in sound quality. These are easily the best component/tweak upgrade I have experienced. Just wonderful. The Audiophile’s Wife agrees 110%.
For me and in my system, the Graphene Sluggos are king of the Sluggo hill. They are the most refined, natural and easeful sounding. They make me want to listen longer. Better depth and layering. I like the pure copper also, but the Graphene is next level.
I delight in our OEM work as well. Most know we build all of the owned products of Underwood's business (LSA, Core Power and Emerald Physics) as well as the new loudspeaker products for Thomas at Galion. We did build the new Bob Carver products as well and I really enjoyed that as Arnie (Nudell) introduced me to Bob over 40 years ago.
We do build for others that can't be mentioned.
The guys I work with are the real heroes. Grateful for them. Peter Madnick, Dr Viet Nguyen, JP in Germany, Darko in Serbia and Alina in Romania - big shout out to Ace Delorito in the Philippines too. There are others... but without this group nothing gets done.
I'm on the downward arc now - but still having s ton of fun. I have other ideas that you'll see very soon.
Thanks for your post - it's very meaningful to me.
@verafiaudio
I spent several decades in product development and innovation - food innovation to be more precise. It is clear to me that you are a gifted innovator in the audio industry and perhaps in other industries. I have been very impressed with your product ideas and development over the years. Fun stuff!
In the EU - most are at the component as it's easy to send one of our Piggy Tails to them for this part of the connection and theeir cable from the Wall to SDFB IN
'We are working on this. Lots of Discussion with Peter Madnick about this. Both of us want to get the new Swiss Digital Active Cable out first... we think this is pretty special.
I agree moving forward Mark could offer an IEC built-in that would plug into the component. Of course that does not take care of folks like you and I that have the current version. The other thing Mark needs to consider is there are a lot of folks that want to plug the box into the wall or conditioner. Many don’t have room behind the component. In these instances they would need a box with a male three prong connector on it not an IEC. Mark would then need to build two different options 🤓. Not ideal. Many considerations here.
The only thing that needs to change is the AC outlet on the SFB should be an IEC Female.
That way the power cord just plugs into the SDFB and the Female IEC plugs into the component. The problem would be the amount of real estate at the back of the component.
@ozzyYour build is certainly an option and your particular build is very high quality. I think an adaptor of high quality would be potentially as good sounding, lower cost, and for some a less cluttered option. I will build one per my plans above and report back.
Not sure of any made (future) adapter quality. That is; with the connectors, or the wire used.
This is what I posted earlier.
I actually made my own 1-footer jumpers out of the Nanotec Power Strada #308 cable with Furutech NCF fittings. Surprising, the extra cord does not seem to be a hindrance, after all the wire coming through the wall is 10-gauge Romex.
I suppose I could have made it 6" long, (or maybe shorter) perhaps that would be the quick answer?
I am thinking of using AC connectors like these in the link below. This is just an example as there are several well priced options for AC connectors I have used in my past cable builds. Remove the outer cases/shells of both and connect them with an inch or so of great wire or a long Sluggo type of conductor. I would carefully damp and encapsulate to finish.
Be great if you made a high quality adaptor that could plug into the component or wall. Nothing out there right now and I will have to make my own. Not sure of the design yet, but I really don’t want another cord. I also think a top quality adaptor design will sound best.
The cheap ones for $5 don’t use high quality conductors or construction.
Purchased two Swiss Boxes and will report back vs SR Master and Purple fuses. Decided to go with cheap adaptors until I can make my own of much better quality.
All part of the "Graphene Magic" (which is really just a healthy dose of science)
Further - our Black Friday is on and we are getting ready for the release of Swiss Digital Active Cable. Fully Active all Conductors (not just the Shield) - more to follow
@ozzyI have 3 Graphene sluggos now and feel they were a noticeable improvement over Solid Silver, Hollow Silver/Rhodium and Gold plated copper. The graphene sluggos sounded very good new and have improved with curing hours. Mine are at about 200 hours and seem to continue getting slightly better. I do notice they get quite hot compared to the other sluggos.
Please note that Graphene requires "curing time"- but very worth it
40 hours - 75 percent
150 - 85 ish
400 - 99 percent
So, my return comment to him was:
Thanks for that information. First listen and I do not detect much difference from the copper sluggs I was using.
I don't believe it to be possible, but can they also be directional?
ozzy
I think, I have read that they can take a little time to break in. Not sure if I understand why but can anyone with experience with the Graphene sluggos comment.
You can build four awesome, top tier 9.75 inch power cables with 1 meter of Furutech DPS 4.1 cable, and four pairs of Viborg VM503R/VM503F connectors. They will total to about $132 each. Or build three at 13 inches long for a little more. (See vh audio and AliExpress)
Or you can use the cheaper Furutech FP-TCS31 cable and they will be $100 each.
Lastly, you can use cheap IEC C13 to NEMA 5-15P to IEC adapters (in the US), and they are only $6 each and sound good because the length is so short, but they will bend under the weight over time.
Sound quality is DPS 4.1 > FP-TCS31 > C13-to-5-15P adapter, but the sound quality differences are somewhat less impactful in the position upstream from the SDFB than whatever power cable is used downstream from the SDFB, and which connects directly to your component.
I would recommend the DPS build route for people like you, and the adapter route for people on a budget.
I hear ya about the need for another power cord. I am using AQ Dragon power cords to my amps.
I actually made my own 1-footer jumpers out of the Nanotec Power Strada #308 cable with Furutech NCF fittings. Surprising, the extra cord does not seem to be a hindrance, after all the wire coming through the wall is 10-gauge Romex.
Something to consider is all these audiophile fuses degrade in sound quality over time according to Synergistic Research owner Ted Denney. I was going to try a Pink fuse, but knowing this I am not sure I would spend money on these fuses with this information. I like that he was honest.
The Swiss box is interesting, but bulky and will the added pigtail hurt sonics when added in series to my “awesome” sounding power cord 🧐 If one could avoid the pigtail and use an adaptor, then that may be the best sonic option?
To me, in my mind, the claim to fame of the Swiss Fuse Box (SFB) is in the fact that it eliminates the very skinny wire in a fuse and replaces it with a more robust connection (sluggo). However, my amps are very powerful and each Mono Block takes a 20A fuse, so the fuse wire cannot be that thin.
I have had every iteration of the Synergistic Research (SR) fuses and the Pink seems to be the best. The bass is more accurate and the sound stage is wider. But I did think that the upper frequencies were perhaps a little more subdued. Possibly a plus for some amps/speakers that may be a little bright.
My first impression (cold out of the box) of the SFB Max variant, I thought they provided more liveliness. And the upper frequencies sounded more involved. But this could be due to the need for more break in. The next day a little more bass depth appeared. And now after 70 hours the soundstage is expanding. I was playing a few live tracks last night and I was impressed with the width and the depth with the SFB compared to the previous SR Pink fuse.
The sluggo I am using is the super copper emersion version. I do wonder if the Graphene version would be even better. Or is the graphene version more useful in source equipment? I dunno, but I would like to experiment with that version someday.
I found a small, immediate improvement in my Aries Cerat Kassandra two Reference DAC. In general, I think at least 50 hours and many people would say you need 300 for any tweak to totally settle in.
I will be comparing the Swiss Fuse Box to a Synergistic Research Pink fuse. My amps require 20A fuses, so it took quite a while to get 20A versions of the Fuse boxes, but they finally arrived.
Question:
As usual, most things audio do take some time to break in. Anyone have a recommend time frame?
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