Jazzdude, thanks for the post. Great feedback on the rectifier tubes. Keep that 6106 burning. I am not sure how long it takes to fully break in but once it does, its pretty amazing. However...it does not work well with all regulator tubes. I have not used the 6F6G so my experience with those and the 6106 is zilch. The 6106 works best with the 350B's. |
When I asked Mick about what tubes I could roll in the regulator position he said the heater voltage has to be 6.3v and the heater current can't be more than 1.5a.
According to the western electric datasheet for the 350b it says the heater current is 1.6a. I recall someone in the "preamp deal of the century thread" said that using 350b's damaged their SupraTek powersupply.
http://www.westernelectric.com/spec_sheets/350B.pdf
Yall might want to check with Mick to see if the 350B is ok to use.
I was interested in using the 350b myself but this kind of put me off a bit. |
Bummer. I'm going to remove my 350B's and go back to the Sovteks that the preamp came with. :)
I don't know... is .1a extra heater current in a regulator really too much for the power supply to handle?
I haven't heard of anyone having trouble with the 350B's and know quite a few people using them.
The power supply problems I am aware of are caused mostly by fast starting - direct heated rectifiers. |
Jazzdude, before I ever tried the 350B, I emailed Mick and asked him if it was okay. He said it was okay and his only caution to me was to guard against unscrupulous tube dealers selling counterfeit 350B's.
I have had no problem with my power supply that I know of and I have been using the 350B's for 1 1/2 to 2 years.
BTW, I just got in two more 6106's and I got the music back. No doubt about in my Chardonnay. The bass is much tighter and the soundstage is incredibly more focused. The difference between the Mullard 5AR4 and the 6106 is rather dramatic. No going back for me. The 5AR4 has boomy bass and less defined edges all the way around compared to the 6106. But Bwhite may be correct in implying that there is a synergy between the 6106 and the 350Bs. |
It's been about a week of burning in the 6106. It definitely sounds different then the GZ34, but not better in my system. I can only arrive at the conclusion that one's opinion of this configuration is very system specific. With my Art Audio Jotas and Merlin VSM, the 6106+350B combo was too lean. Swapping in my Audio Note speakers (inherently colored, full, warm speakers), the 6106+350B was better.
I'm going back to my metal base GZ34. Besides the fact I prefer the sonics, I prefer to run my gear with tubes it's designed for. I've had transformers/power supplies (in other gear) damaged when substituting non-equivalents (e.g. ECC32 in 6SN7), so I have a inclination to play it safe these days. FYI: this damage is rarely immediately apparent, but rather it manifests itself over long durations (e.g. years). Just be careful when running your gear beyond tolerance. |
Bwhite and Fiddler - my intent was only to bring the heater current issue to the attention of SupraTek owners at large. However they act on that info is up to the individual. We are talking about a small amount of power. Less than 1 extra watt DC for both heaters combined. But design specs normally exist for a reason. |
Hi Gang. Whopadeedo. You stated "you preferr to run your gear with the tubes that were designed for it". Are you stating the spec for the rectification duty of your supratek is only rated for an gz34/ar4 and the 6106 doesn't meet spec? Your metal based gz34 is a fabulous rectifier to be sure[yes I have one] however, there are more than a dozen substitute rectifiers that will meet spec for rectification duty in your supratek.Please sir, don't interpret this post as being derogatory. Regarding regulation tubes....Mick recommends a max of 1.5 amps for heater current on the regulators. Well in the real world, that .1 amp draw for the heaters will fall well within the tolerance on any cuircuit designers paramaters if one is using regulator tubes to smooth the ripple of the rectifier, regardless of what type of rectification tube type used. The 6106 is rather unique in regard to run in time, as it requires a ton more burn in time than any other rectifier of it's type. The 6106 mated with the 350b's is any thing but lean in character regardless of the speaker used. I have auditioned your very own Merlin's in my own room and I would never ever consider it as sounding lean in character by any stretch, even in my rather large sound room [ 34ft x 27 ft x 12 ft ceiling] Great speakers by the way! I can remember responding to Bwhite's post as well as others regarding this very same issue in the original preamp of the century thread. If your 6106 was new out of the box, be rest assured; that 1 week of playing time isn't any where near enough run in time on the 6106. Furthermore... there is no better rectifier/regulator combo[6106/350] for any of the supratek preamps . Yes, the 6106 is closer in spec to a 5y3 than a gz34 however,it "isn't" a 5y3 and there isn't a 5y3 type rectifier on the planet that sounds anything at all like the 6106 in the supratek or any other gear for that matter. Your reply to Jazzdude regarding the 5y3 distorting sooner than a gz34 may indeed be correct. That said: a 5y3 type rectifier is NOT a 6106, and the 6106 will "not" distort sooner than my metal based gz34. It's the very same analogy as saying the metal based gz34 sounds better than a mullard, amperex, sylvania,phillips gz34. Patience my good man, give in more time[much more] you will surely be rewarded! |
I'll cook them a bit more. All three Bendix I have are NOS/NIB, so I'll give them a fair shake by burning them a couple weeks longer. For 6106 users, how long does the tube life last? When called to do 5AR4 duty, the life should be significantly shortened.
For all intents and purposes, the 6106 is very much like the 5Y3 in electrical operation. Sure, it's indirectly heated and sound better then any 5Y3 I know, but it's still very similiar to a 5Y3 in regards to electrical function. Thus, I expect it to behave much like a 5Y3 in a 5AR4 application. It has nothing to do with the 6106 being the best 5Y3-type tube. It's still a 5Y3-type tube called to do 5AR4 duties. The analogy goes: throwing in a metal base GZ34 in to a 5U4G circuit doesn't mean it will perform well simply because the metal base GZ34 is the best of its kind.
In any case, I'll give it more time. FWIW: I, too, don't think the 350B will likely cause any damage in Suprateks (although it can happen). |
Whoopadeedoo - if you're using a Chardonnay, just disconnect your power supply from the line stage and turn on the power supply. That's all it takes to burn in the Bendix. I had mine running 24/7 for more than a week before it started to sound good.
While I really love the Bendix and what it does, I can imagine cases where it will not suit every system and every listening preference. At one point, I recall being very drawn in to the Gold Lion KT66 / GZ34 fat base combo for delivering the most seductive and involving musical experience. When listening, I realized that everything (tonally) was somewhat incorrect but I found I listened longer to the system. |
What about the tube that just hangs under the cover, not mounted to anything, with just the wires holding it in place, located under the bottom cover of the Merlots?
If someone can instruct me how to transfer a photo from my C drive to this site, I'll be happy to share a few photos within a few days.
For now, let's just say that I was "less than impressed". |
Jes45 - If you have an axe to grind with Mick then tell him about it. There is nothing we can do to correct any problems you may have. From my past experience with Mick he has always taken care of things that needed fixin. |
What makes you believe the 6106 is called upon to do the duty of a 5ar4 in the supratek, one could use the very same analogy by saying
the 5ar4 has to do the same duty as the 5z4, gz33, gz34, gz37 as well as a host of others. All of these rectifiers are recommended by Mick Maloney himself. RE: tube life???All the redbank family of rectifiers were developed exclusively for the Top secret American Missile Program. Their build quality and durabilty are legendary, and second to none. My 6106 has been in active duty for more than a decade and still test above 100% on both sides. It replaced a Mullard gz34 in my stock Dynakit stereo 70 way back in the early 90's. Whether it will outlast a Mullard gz34 in a supratek? I rather doubt it though, as the original Mullard gz34 lasted more than 20 years in the Dyna. Who the hell knows? but who here really cares anyway? |
Ecclectique - it is great to see you active on the thread again. I tried the 6106 in my preamp for a week and it was very good. It opened up a bit after the first 24 hours but I didn't notice much change after that.
Are we dealin with a breakin issue or is it an operating temp problem? If you take your 6106 out and let it cool off, how long will it take to open up again when you put it back in?
Is that the heater element in the middle of the 6106? Looks like they ran it through some ceramic. Maybe that attributes to some of this.
On another note. I have some 6K6G on the way. Mick said they would work in the regulator position. The plate dissipation is real low so I am hoping for some magic. |
Hi Jazz. Unfortunately...My typing skills are zero,I never did learn to type, not to mention that I'm a "certified moron" on these damned computers.I type with "one finger". hehehehe.....Hell if the keyboard didn't have the letters marked on the keys I'd have no chance at all! Yes, you have probably noticed how much longer the 6106 takes to power up the preamp when compared to other rectifiers. It also seems to take the supratek longer to warm up sonically with the 6106 in it. Furthermore, the 6106 operates at a lot hotter temperature [by design] than any of the others. When it's removed and cools down, unfortunately you will have to wait another 30 to 40 minutes for it to optimize the preamp. Another interesting observation.....About 6 months ago... I replaced my old 6106 in the cortese with a brand new 6106 and it sounded just dreadful,imparted a glare to the preamp that was unbearable to listen to. To run it in I powered it up [24/7] for a couple of weeks in the power supply of the syrah [unattached] and it still sounded rather thin by comparison, but the glare was almost gone at about 100 hours. It took a total of nearly 300 hours for it to fully flesh out.I loaned it to another supratek user[syrah] and he loves it paired with the 6f6g's in the regulation position. Yes sir: the 6K6g is another small power pentode that is a very good alternative tube option for regulation duty in the suprateks, however.... these were all originally made in either metal envelopes,st bottles or short glass gt types... the only 6k6 that is any good in our preamps are the earlier bottle shaped G versions with the round plate internals. The 6K6 metals are no good, the 6k6gt's are better but the G versions are the tube of choice. Note: There are a lot of other small pentode tubes from that same family that we can substitute for regulation duty in our preamps. Most of this family of pentodes... like the 6f6,6L6,6K6,6U6,6v6,1621,5871 can be used for regulation duty in the supratek and many are very gound sounding valves when used as an output tube in a good amplifier. However.... most of them were originally designed in either metal envelopes or glass bottles. My experience with them..... stay with the bottle types as none of the metals sound very good. Another superb tube for regulation duty is the 1621. This tube was used in the amplifier of wurlitzer's top model jukes, as well as some early Western Electric amplifier circuits. |
I have asked Mike these questions:
Can bendix 6106 be used in Chenin rectifier (line level and phono inputs)?
Or maybe it can be used only when line level input are used, or not at all ?
His answer:
"
The Bendix can be used in any Supratek, and is probably as good as you can get.
The 6F6GT regulator tube can only be used in the line stage pres, and there are a few brands that dont seem very reliable -I'm recommending that if you want to experiment with regulator tubes the Sovtek KT66 is a good sub.
" |
Ah.. so Mick like the Bendix too! Nice! Sorlowski, thanks for posting. |
Can the Bendix 6106 be used in the newest Cortese? |
Hello everyone, This is my first post on Audiogon. I've just written to Mick about NOS tubes for my Cortese (built in January 2005), and yes, he recommends the Bendix 6106 along with the Amperex/Siemens 6922s for the phono stage, "... a good 6922 will make a big difference" but also recommends caution, "... a lot of hype and many ignorant, if not dishonest vendors out there". |
Gord, Welcome to Audiogon and thanks for your input! Bob
|
well,i have almost 2 weeks on the 6106,the rest of my tubes are stock,compared to the sovtek 5ar4,the 6106 is much clearer all around,better defined and tighter bass,much more enjoyable ,,,im not sure that its fully broken in yet,now to decide on which NOS to try for the 6sn7 and 5881,i like tight bass,WITH SOME WEIGHT,texture,truth of timbre,holographic imaging,no softening of notes,,and a little money left in my bank account,,open to sugg. |
Hi Raytheprinter,
I have found the Tung Sol round plates to be the best for me. I have a couple pair of Ken-Rad black glass I can sell you at a good price if you are interested. I have some other tubes for the Supratek too. Shoot me an e-mail off line if you want to know what I have. |
Raytheprinter - the 5881 is one of the worst regulators. Better to go with 6L6G, 6L6GA, or 6F6G and they are less $ than 5881. Ken-Rad's 6SN7GT/VT231 or Sylvania 6SN7GT Tall-boy have the best weight. Email me if you need pictures of examples. |
Slowhand,i would be interested in the Ken Rads,ill email you,thanks ,,Jazzdude,thanks,im going to do a little research on the tubes you mentioned,ill email you with any questions,Ray |
Jazzdude,
As far as I understand stock 5881 can be repleaced with Tung Sol 5881's , Western Electric 350B but not with Ken-Rad's 6SN7GT/VT231 or Sylvania 6SN7GT ? |
yeah. I was recommending the Ken-Rad's 6SN7GT/VT231 or Sylvania 6SN7GT as signal tubes. I think Raytheprinter was looking for some suggestions on that also. |
thanks Jazzdude,,im really looking forward to trying some NOS,ive been moving my ICs around a bit,and am amazed at the diff. i now hear with the Chard in my system,i seem to prefer the middle gain setting on back of unit,too much gain seems to fatten up the sound ,too little it seems thin |
I have an extra pair of TJ101D which I cannot use in my cabernet. So any cabernet owners who can use this tube are welcome to them. Its a freebie, I don't won't any money for them. Send me an email. |
has anyone tryed GE6SN7 GTB Side getter 1952 ? |
Has anyone used the 5932 tube in the regulator position on the Supratek? If so, what are your thoughts? |
Slowhand - I used the dual-plate 5932 in the Sauvignon and Cabernet for at least 18 months. IMO it is probably the most underrated of the regulator tubes. My SupraTeks were always at their quietest and the soundstage most stable with the 5932 in place. Regarding impact on the sound qualities the 5932 is between the 6F6G and 7027a/KT-66.
bass output/fullness 7027a/KT-66>5932>6F6G
harmonics 6F6G>5932>7027a/KT-66
detail retrieval 6F6G>5932>7027a/KT-66 |
Raytheprinter - 6SN7 quality starts to decline in the early 50's. This is just a generalization. There are very noteable exceptions like the Sylvania 6SN7GT of that period. 6sn7gta and 6sn7gtb are not as good for audiophile applications as 6sn7gt and vt-231. In 1952 6sn7gt's were still being manufactured and I don't think the 6sn7gtb had been designed yet. To the best of my recollection the 6sn7gtb has the same higher plate voltage of the 6sn7gta but with a slower startup. I stay away from GE tubes until there are no more Sylvania/Ken-Rad/RCA left in the world. |
thanks Jazzdude,my mistake ,the date in the ad was 1954 not 52 , |
What is a difference in look, sound quality between Bendix 6106 and Red Bank Bendix 6106 ?
Or maybe all Bendix 6106 are Red Bank Bendix 6106 ? |
It's the same tube. "Red Bank" refers to a specific Bendix manufacturing division/plant (located in New Jersey), not any cosmetic differences. |
the stock tubes did not sound bad in my Chard. ,it did take close to a month for everything to fall into place.Im now using;rectifier;Bendix6106 regulator;TungSol 6L6WGB linestage;KenRad 6SN7GT/VT231,much better than stock tubes,Thank you Slowhand!ive been looking for 350Bs with no luck,so many more tubes to try! |
Hello Guys,has anyone used a Sylvania 5V4G? |
Hello Raytheprinter. Yes, it's a nice sounding tube in the syrah. |
has anyone seen this site? virtual valve museum? |
I really like the Kenrad JAN CKR 6SN7 GT/VT231 Black glass !! |
Hi Gang. Raytheprinter, the ge 6sn7gtb sidegetter is a very good inexpensive tube option for those that don't want to pay the price for a pair of kenrad blacks, tung-sol rounds,or the metal based sylvania vt-231. In my experience... there are only 4 to 5 6sn7 types I could live with in the supratek and all of them are rather pricey,with the exception of the ge sidegetter. The ge sidegetter [gta or gtb] is the a very well balanced tube, with a midbass punch and resolution that will compete or surpass any of the tubes mentioned above . Further more....it is clean,clear and typically very low in noise with no microphonic tendencies so common in the better sounding 6sn7's. No...it doesn't possess the midband bloom and holographics of the Ken's or tungsol's but it is certainly an over achiever when price is a consideration and unquestionably the best "bang for the buck" tube choice for the supratek's. |
Ecclectique,great description of the GEs, i put a pair in and found the midrange to be a little thin with the 6106,i put the Sovtek 5AR4 back in and was rewarded with a very clear,sound with great bass,large solid soundstage,good low level detail,and SOME of the midrange magic of the kenrads,def more presence,,using Tungsol 6L6GTB for reg. i still prefer the Kenrad black glass,6106,6L6GTB combo,the 5AR4,GE6SN7,6L6GTB combo is a good low cost set of tubes for my system.I dont have a great amount of exp. with tube swapping but i know good sound when i hear it!i also have a Westinghouse 5V4G ive yet to try in rect. Boy this is great fun!!!!!!Also,thanks for all the great info guys! |
Supratek options and alternative tubes!!!! For those that are considering ordering a new preamp from Mick. As many of you know, Mick will custom make the preamp with a host of options: like a mono switch for the phono stage, gain switches, input and output configuration etc. The 6sn7 dual triode is the standard tube offered for line gain in all of the supratek's with the exception of the cabernet which uses a directly heated triode px4 for gain duty. The 6sn7 is a great sounding high gain dual triode tube that has gained favour and has been vitually reincarnated in many modern amp and preamp circuit design as opposed to it's electrically equivalent 9 pin miniature cousins like the 12ax7,12au7,12at7 family of dual triode tubes that were so common in the typical commercial circuits of the 60's,70's and 80's in the likes of Marantz, macs,fisher, and ARC's etc. And like he better minature 9 pin tubes [telefunkens'siemen,amperex, mullard etc] prices for nos 6sn7's and equivalents have escalated into the stratosphere with no end in site. "Check out the market value of a nos telefunken ecc803"[an uprated 12ax7 dual triode]These are typically trading now at close to $1000 a pair!!! The tung sol round plate 6sn7's are now trading at $200+ a pair if they are new in box! Geez gang.... 10 years ago you could buy tung sol rounds NIB for $10 a tube..... makes the stock market or your average mutual fund investments look pretty silly. Concerned yet? It's great for many of us that have collected a stock of nos tubes, but what about the newbie that wants to voice his gear with something other than crappy sovteks or the chineese equivalents????? Yes gang, there are alternative tube options that one can acquire for the suprateks that are very plentiful, dirt cheap, low in demand,and sound as good as the "best" of the 6sn7 tube family and at a fraction of their cost. What are they you ask? Single triodes..... 6j5's,6c5's,6p5's,or the magnificent 7193. Yes...some of these tubes have less gain than the 6sn7 but that can also be a huge benefit to those that have too much gain and very little play with their volume control. Example: I can only use the low gain setting on the syrah in my rig as the high gain switch gives me to little play on the volume pot [9 oclock on the dial is loud] The alps pot that Mick uses has typically sounded best around 12 oclock or higher in most any preamp employing the alps pot. If you need more gain,one can order the preamp with 2 sockets/channel and use a pair of single triodes and have the same high gain as the dual triode 6sn7 without having to route the signal through the contacts of the switch. If one needs less gain and is handy with a soldering iron, simply unsolder 2 wires to the 2nd tube socket. There are a huge selection of nos 6j5 types, metal envelopes,shoulder shaped G bottles,gt glass bottles from all of the great US munufacturers like kenrad, tungsol, sylvania, national union,RCA,Marconi etc as well as the great euro equivalents from Genelex,MO valve,brimar etc. Some are of round plate construction,some flat plate and a few are mesh plates. The 40's metal based sylvania 6j5 gt sounds every bit as good as the insanely expensive metal based 6sn7 vt-231. The kenrad 6j5gt sounds very similiar to the kenrad black and typically sells for $15 a tube. The 6p5g and 6c5g [lower gain than a 6j5]is in a different leaugue altogether and will outperform all of 6sn7. For the daring,or technically inclined DYI types.... I have saved the best for last as rewiring the tube socket is in order here to accomodate the 7193! The 7193 triode is a strange looking octal tube with plate and grid caps on the the top of the glass. These are electrically equivalent to a 6j5 single triode or 1/2 of a 6sn7. They were munufactured by RCA, NU, kenrad and tungsol as far back as the early 1930's.Many were used in old Juke boxes in their day as well as some early 50's tv sets. This tube just stomps on any 6sn7! Simply said.... there is no going back once you hear it. It's like comparing a telefunken ecc803 to a ge 12ax7, or a we350b to a 6L6. Halographic like no other,dead quiet,microphonics are non existant, super liquidity with incredible clarity,a silky sweet top end that floats into your room,the bass energy and drive of the kenrad vt-231 but far crisper and 3 times as tight. I use the cortese in my main system with my very efficient Tannoy Westminster's driven by VAC pa-90 monos employing the genelex kt-77 output tube. With the 6sn7's in the preamp I have very little room for play with the volume control whereby a single 6j5 is perfect for my application. I have unsoldered the other socket whereby I use only 1 6j5/channel. If I change amps or speakers that are lower in sensitivety, I simply solder 2 wires to the second socket. This allows me the gain flexibility without routing the signal through another switch. It also allows me the abilty to compare the dual triode 6sn7's to single triode 6j5 or equivalents like the 6c5's,6p5's and 7193,s. Some food for thought for those the are considering a new supratek preamp. |
Ecclectique,i sure feel pressured to find the combination of tubes i like best, and buy a lifetime supply of them,before the cost gets beyond my reach!Your response is very well written,even i understood it ,thanks.Would it be possible to add a tube socket to each channel on a standard Supratek preamp ? |
Hi Raytheprinter. Man, you have been on a mission lately!...and a very fine system sir. Didn't mean to put any pressure on you. I see you have already discovered the Kenrad vt-231....a great tube in the supratek. How did the sylvania 5v4 work out for you? It can be marginal for the supratek's with a phono stage unless it test's close to 100%. You may or may not experience a little image shift or wander when playing vinyl. Both examples of the 5v4g that I have do ehibit this peculiar trait. |
Ecclectique,Thank you! Im still trying to decide how i feel about the 5V4G,,will report back in a few days!Did i already mention how much i like the Kenrads!!! |
Iwas wondering if any of the NOS 6SN7s sound close to the KR VT231s,,RCA maybe? |
Ecclectique, I'm intrigued by your explanation of your switch to the 7193, but am a little more than confused yet on the actual process-electronics not being one of my strong suites. I'm wondering if you or someone else who has done the switch would consider posting a step-by-step expose of the operation and being very specific? (I have a Sauvignon , but system is not up and running yet.) |
Hi Gang. Raytheprinter.... The kenrad black vt-231 really has a flavour all of it's own with perhaps the most dynamic bass energy of all of the 6sn7 types, albeit a little on the tubby side when compared to most of the others.Above the bottom 2 octaves it is very clean with great ambience and air, it throws a big soundstage thats both deep and wide. By comparison, the greyglass rca vt-231 possesses a very similiar character tonally. It's bass range is also somewhat overly ripe however it is a well balanced tube from top to bottom with a beautiful timbre, harmonically rich with a realistic soundstage and liquid mids. Not quite as vivid and organic as the kenrad but a beautiful voice none the less. Kpinneo.... Congrats on your new Sauvignon. Regarding the wiring for the 7193, I am assuming your sauvignon is set up with the 6sn7 for line gain duty. The 6sn7 [a dual triode] is basically 2 6j5's[a single triode] in one bottle. Both the 6sn7 and the 6j5 are octal based tubes and utilize the same tube bass. My cortese is set up for 2 6j5's for each channel or 4 6j5's in total for line gain. The 7193 is the electrically equivalent to the 6j5 except it's connection to the grid [pin 5 on the base] is now rerouted to the top of the tube and connected with a top cap. The anode [pin 3] is also rerouted to the other top cap on the tube. |
What are the best new replacements for 5881 which comes with Chenin, because NOS replacements like WE350B or Tung Sol 5881 are awfully expensive... |
Kpinneo. Further to the above thread.... I was reviewing what I had written and clicked the submit button by accident. Anyway.... The re-wiring for mine is a little more straight forward considering I only need to unsolder and re-route two wires. I am assuming here that you have some soldering skills,basic electronic fundamentals and a little experience with vacuum tubes in general. If not; I would suggest you work with a local techie or a modder to do the change for you. Furthermore: You will have to run the extra wires with the top caps either/or from the underside of the preamp and up the sides to the connections on the top of the 7193 or drill holes beside the tube socket to route the extra wiring needed. The wiring and pin connections for the 6sn7 is somewhat different being it has two triodes sections. The heaters [pin 2 and 7 ] or the same for both tube types. The cathode [pin 8 ] is also common to both tubes. Remember the 7193 is a single triode so one triode section of the 6sn7 will be unsoldered at the tube bass. The unsoldered wires will be at pin #2,3,and 4. Those wires should be folded and labelled. The connections for the 7193 should be as follows: Pin #8 is wired for the cathode, pin #7 is wired for the heater. Pin #6 will be unsoldered as this wire will need to be re-routed to the top of the tube and a top cap soldered to it. Pin # 5 is the anode, unsolder and re-route the wire to the top cap of the tube. Top Caps must be snug at the tube connection. Always mark the wires for identification for converting it back. Remember, the gain of the preamp will now be 1/2 of the 6sn7 unless you use a pair for each channel. For those that want to use the standard 6j5 and equivalent subs....leave the connections as they are at pin #5[grid] and pin #6[anode] and unsolder pins #2,3, and 4. Please note: I will not be held responsible for any damages to your equipment as a result of this post and I would strongly suggest you consult with mick at supretek before you proceede. Hope this helps and best of luck. |
