Speaker Positioning


I know from speaker position is critical in achieving the best results from a given system. Is there a dynamic way to measure placement of each speaker to make certain they are the exact same distances from back/side wall, cabinets, seating, etc. beyond a measuring tape and listening to the results? Seems to me if minor differences pay large returns, you could be tinkering with this a long time.  Thanks for the indulgence.  
sj00884
Check out what the experts say on speaker positioning to save you a lot of time to get the initial position before making the more precise movements. Check out the following sites: Cardas, jim smith, ps audio and others. There are formulas to use based upon wall width and ceiling height for example. I use the 1/3 formula (sometimes the 1/5 rule) where you divide up the length of the room into 1/3rd and you place your speakers 1/3 the room length from the back wall, then use Cardas formula for the distanc from the side wall and jim smith’s rule on placing the listening chair from the speakers. Then you start fine tuning. 
I have a pair of speakers, this is the directions for speaker placement of the tweeter AFTER the toe is set. Take a laser pointer. Make sure it has a flat base. Take the flat base and put it on the face of the tweeter screen face (it's a ribbon). Set the tweeter at 6" or so over the head at the seated position, and tighten the adj screws..FST Free Swinging Tweeter.

Great idea, WORST place on the planet to mount it.. I'm fixing it.. :-)

The placement of every driver in every direction is EVERYTHING.

Man oh man is that hard...

Regards
check out the book “Get better Sound” or Wilson’s Audio Setup procedure in YouTube
Start with a laser to (+1 on Bosch) to get each within an inch of each appropriate ear. Then fine tune (especially toe in) according to soundstage. If the wall placements are equal move one until it sounds best and match the other first. If not good luck.
Measurement and dynamic are oxymoronic.
@twoleftears , +1 
A laser measure will be the most accurate.

@OP,
There are other measurements that can be considered. Sound pressure level, frequency response are just two.
If you are serious, why not contact a high end dealer to assess your system?
I bet you'll learn a few things just watching.
Bob
Bosch laser measure, inexpensive model.  You can check the exact distance between you and the two speakers, and you don't need someone to hold the other end of the tape measure.
Well when you get to end of the setup, what else matters.. Still have to listen.

I understand difference in ear balance vs measured balance, vs SPL balance  (left and right speaker matching). It does vary quite a bit actually.
Depends on who made the stuff or if they even care..

ROOMS forget about it... no two are the same.. Anything goes..

To thine own room be true.....Know your room....:-)

Regards
I found a tape measure easiest to measure against room boundaries while making REW measurements at 4" intervals. When I was done with REW, I used a laser against a paper target at the listening position to mirror the speakers' distance to the listening position, and toe-in.
  
Thanks gents.   By “dynamic” I was referring to physical location determined by more than just a tape measure,  Sonic measurements are of little value IMO unless you know the corresponding measurements for your left/right ear.  Once again and as anticipated, the ears have it!
I do appreciate everyone’s responses. 
My oppinion on this is to get it close but don’t loose sleep over 1/8 of an inch.  I also think that sometimes its better to not have them at the same exact distancE from the walls because of frequencies cancelling each other out.  Also, your room is probably not perfectly square.  I like to do what MC says but then use a string japed to where your head is then pull the string tight to one tweeter.  Hold that position on the string now walk over to the other speaker and make it the same distance.  
Distance to speakers and equal angles to the speakers is more important than equal distance to walls.

Shoot, speakers are going to have sliggt differences between the drivers and crossover components.

I’ve been using Sonarworks reference 4 correction software and my speakers measured slightly different between the 2 channels.  I was within + or - 3 db the whole range but with correction on, the image is perfectly centered and the frequency is flatter.  Im not certain the cost sonically speaking though of using this program.  A bit too early to tell if its something I will use all the time, part of the time or none.
Dynamic meaning changing / constantly changing? You could put the speakers on wheels until you get it into the exact position you want, and then either lock the wheels or replace them with spikes in hopes you don't move the speaker too much during the replacement process. Using a laser measure would be more convenient and probably more accurate than using a tape measure.
Short answer: no. Long answer: Because no such thing can be made to work.  

Speaker placement involves a lot of compromises that only you the listener can make. No dynamic AI or whatever is ever going to know exactly what you like. So sorry, but no way of getting around it, you're just going to have to work through it like everyone else.  

The most efficient setup technique I know is the one I have used for like 30+ years. First move the speakers around and listen from different places, listening only for tone and frequency response. Try and find the most even frequency response. If using subs (highly recommended) then forget low bass and pay attention only to the lower midrange on up. Don't spend a lot of time fussing with precision, doesn't hardly matter if the speakers are pointed perfectly or equidistant at all, you're not listening for that, only frequency response. Be sure to move the listening chair around because where you sit has as much effect as where the speakers sit.

Now with the speakers and chair pretty much where you want them take out that tape measure and make sure they are absolutely perfectly equidistant and toed exactly the same. Listen for imaging solidity and stage width and depth. Next toe the speakers in just slightly more. Then toe them out just slightly more. Notice when toed in more the image is more solid, and the sage deep. Toed out the stage is a bit wider and not quite as deep or solid. There is no right or wrong. Its what you like.

When you get what you like you are done. No stupid software. No dopey hardware. Just you, your brain, and your ears. You can be done in an hour. Or devote your life to it. Spoiler alert: devote your life to it and some day you find it doesn't even take an hour.
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