My amplifier doesn't have a fuse anywhere
So done with audiophile fuses
The journey started with a medium priced ($50) fuse in my power supply. A failed rectifier tube blew that one out. Not a fuse problem. Next up was a blue fuse in my pre amp. It blew and was not caused by a pre amp problem. Apparently they sometimes are more sensitive and it was replaced by an orange fuse two values higher. Things were going along fine. I replaced the pre amp with a newer version of the pre amp and it has the same fuse value. Five months latter (today) I turn on the pre amp and nothing. it's a five month old pre amp so I suspected that it was the fuse. Sure enough, I replaced it with a ceramic Littelfuse of the lower correct value it works fine. No more wasting my money on unstable fuses for me.
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sugabooger"You continue to amaze, astonish, and sadden me with your willingness to argue about a critical safety issue with which you have no knowledge." You assume, surmise, and speculate on matters of which you have little to know direct understanding, knowledge or experience and this is a mtter in which I happen to be especially well informed. "While in the US, an NRTL test is not technically required" Right that is what I said so you can spare us the pronouncements, arguments, and what some Americans would call "bleeting." "Just stop ... don't start typing a reply unless you are very familiar with this. This is a safety issue." I have not stated, suggested, or implied anything unsafe, dangerous, or hazardous I have only corrected you're clear, obvious, extreme errors in statements which you present as unassailable, immutable, unimpeachable facts. I will not stop replying to those posts I deem worthy of a direct, correctional, factual response. |
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Results of my fuse replacements by solid copper wire. I DO NOT RECOMEND THIS FIRE HAZZARD, but here's my test results: Listening tests performed with subs turned off, music; Dark side of the Moon, Boiling Point and Famous Blue Raincoat. With all program material, the sound was much more detailed and had better clarity. Each album had its own distinct improvements. DSM-Tighter bass and bells seem to jump out at you. BP-Holy cow, so much detail and clarity, I was stunned. FBR-Vocals had noticeably more detail and clarity. I could understand all of the lyrics better (I don't have the lyrics memorized). Amplifier; 120 W/channel rated by manufacture, 8 ohm, 1% Dale load resistors in oil bath. Tested with standard fuses before modification: Summary, 153 Watts/channel rms at clipping, both channels driven, continuous averaged 20Hz. and 20kHz., duration at each frequency; 10 seconds. After modification: Same frequencies and duration used, 172 Watts/channel rms at clipping. Voltage burst test, pulse duration 400 ms, test frequency 1000Hz.: 39.59 Vrms (196 Watts). I did not do the burst test before modification, so I don't have that data. I did not do
any distortion tests as I sold my HP distortion analyzer to a friend before I
moved. Sure wish I hadn't, but maybe I can borrow it? You know my conclusion…
Of course, this does not validate discussion topic, but clearly resistance in
series has a detriment to the sound and output current. |
nwres158 posts05-20-2021 2:56pmAnother observation on the unwrapped SR fuse. From the image, it looks as if they applied a graphene paste to the fuse before they wrapped it in their foil backed SR sticker. Perhaps these two additions to the stock fuse is part of their proprietary process that may have some added benefit. A couple observations with your statement. Graphene is an excellent conductor. A foil decal is also a conductor. It would makes sense that either and/or both of these adjuncts could bypass the fuse filament creating a higher flow of current through the entire fuse assembly, leading the the filament to fail at it's rated amperage. If this is indeed what is happening, I doubt a whole lot of critical engineering went into this device by the "Lead Designer". |