How important is it to replace your generic receptacles with audio grade receptacles . I already replaced my stock power cords to high end Shunyatas. Would it still be necessary to still change my generic receptacles to audio grade?
tattooedtrackman My point is: If you already have a 15A service with receptacles where you need them and there is not already a host of other devices plugged into that circuit - that circuit would be most adequate for your cdp and possible other devices. I can understand upgrading the receptacles and to a point, power cords, but installing a new 20A circuit for a CDP or even a CDP and one or two other components, is nonsensical....my professional opinion...Jim
@ Elizabeth. Kudos to you for disassembling a receptacle. I used to do this for a living and never contemplated doing that. I think the receptacle you described is a little over the top, but glad you like them. In a high current draw situation, if the connector, being the cord in this case, doesn't generate any heat at the connection, you're good. As I said earlier, a lot of small tweaks put together, can and does make a difference. My view is, as I said, you have diminishing returns after a while. I'll have to say, you're really getting down to the nitty gritty. I guess if you know you have done everything you can to improve your sound, it's very comforting.
@elizabeth ...Thanks Elizabeth but i got a really great deal on the Oyaide WPC - Z2 carbon fiber double face plate and the WPC-Z single ...I will try them out. Let you know the results as soon as i can..
I didnt know the Furutechs GTX - d r could be wired to a 15A circuit.. Thats why i was going to use a 20A line...Well i will now use a 15A dedicated line for my CDP. I thought i had no choice but to use a 20A line with the furutech.
jhills...I do not a dedicated line for my CDP but i did buy 3 Furutech GTX-d r receptacles. 2 of them will be used for my Krell FPB 600 amp and ARC Ref 6 preamp... The other one i wanted to put on a dedicated 20A line for my CDP . Can the Furutech GTX-d r be wired to a 15A dedicated line? I thought they were 20A receptacles.
Scratching my head, Why does anyone think that they need a 20A dedicated circuit for a CDP? I see the purpose for using a better outlet receptacle, as a better tighter connection and grip, is always a plus, but I see no purpose in having a dedicated 20A circuit for a CD player and no players that I know of that comes with, or requires a 20A cord. It would surprise me if any CDP or combination DAC and transport pulled more than 5 amps and there are very few power amps that actually require a 20A circuit and have or require a 20A cord. In fact lower amp equipment should not be used in high amp circuits. If something fails, something might burn before the breaker trips. I have built and wired a number of houses and garages all to UBC and NEC code and can tell you - both 15A and 20A residential circuits are commonly wired with the same 12/2 w/ground Romex wire.....just sayn...Jim
Yaysayers: Willing to spend money and experiment with different aftermarket items to see if they can improve the sound of their systems. Usually have high resolution systems that can reveal the differences (good or bad) that a tweek might bring. They will take the time to carefully listen and decide if there is an improvement in the sound, just a difference in the sound or no effect at all. It takes time & effort to do and is not for everyone.
Naysayers: Not willing to spend the money, because there is no need, as the end result is already known to them. It can't possibly make a difference, so why bother. Nays like to argue with the Yays even after the Yays have actually done the experiment! They bring up expectation bias or a placebo effect or make negative remarks like: "Makes an audible difference" someone posted, no it doesn't . It can't , there is no logical reason for an outlet to upgrade sound…same goes for power cables" or "
You have hundreds of fat of copper in your home and you think changing the last three feet of that is going to make a difference at what comes out of your speakers" or "
Why waste more money on something that anyone really intelligent and logical would discern as a "gimmick." or "
Yes...my mind is made up...because, among other attributes, I am intelligent and smart." or "
Yaysayers seem to have no concept of the value of money and the value of products."
Now, if you are not interested in getting the best performance from your system, why are you participating in these forums? Is it to make fun of Yays? Is it because you are too cheap to spend money & time to experiment? Or, is it that you just need to be right? STOP insulting those of us that have taken the time & effort to improve and appreciate our systems.
I know for a fact i that hear a difference with my upgraded Shunyata King Cobra CX PC for my ARC Ref 6 compared to the stock PC. Same goes with my Shunyata Sigma PC for my Krell FPB 600 and my Shunyata Sigma Digital PC Rega Isis CDP. Same goes for my StraightWire Crescendo ICs and speaker cable. I hear a big difference even from the lower end StraightWire Virtuso which i upgraded to Crescendo all the way around ...So i really think unless you try some higher end PCs and ICs and speaker cable you should not say that it is a waste of money and dont have any value of money. Our money im sure is just as important to us as to you. So i wall say once again if u never tried it you cant give an opinion one way or the other.
Yes...my mind is made up...because, among other attributes, I am intelligent and smart. And this difference of opinion is something you should want to be on this forum. It is what discussion is all about.
Yaysayers crack me up. You spend untold thousands of dollars on what you decide is a kickbutt audio system...and the more you spend the more you need to spend more on all the little gimmicks that others convince you will "Make an Improvement." And, of course, once you spend that all that on one gimmick (that almost always sounds better) the more you need the next one. That’s why you are getting close to replacing your home’s wiring and breaker. Holy Moly...after you do that, what is next? This: Spend even more money on a new system and start all over again.
Yaysayers seem to have no concept of the value of money and the value of products.
Sure...it is your money to spend as you want. And it is my privilege, on this forum, to continue to criticize what I see a poor advice to naive visitors to this site.
According
to UL and NEMA, the only difference between a 125 vac 15 amp receptacle
and a 20 amp receptacle, is the plastic cover governing the type of
plug it will accept.
This is mistaken. A 20A receptacle is designed to safely conduct 20A of current. A 15A receptacle is not designed to safely conduct 20A of current.
Elizabeth...why should we try? I’ve done that with speaker wire and interconnects and found no difference over appropriate and inexpensive cables.
There’s no reason for you to experiment with power cables - your mind is already made up. It’s called confirmation bias. Your assertion that "anyone really intelligent and logical would discern as a ’gimmick’ " an improved cord isn’t consistent with the facts, btw, but that doesn’t really matter. Your mind is made up.
Elizabeth...why should we try? I've done that with speaker wire and interconnects and found no difference over appropriate and inexpensive cables. Why waste more money on something that anyone really intelligent and logical would discern as a "gimmick." Besides, if I tried and reported no difference/improvement, you YaySayers would retort (incessantly) that my ears are out of whack or my system isn't good enough to "resolve" the improvement.
You have hundreds of fat of copper in your home and you think changing the last three feet of that is going to make a difference at what comes out of your speakers….yea, ok
"Makes an audible difference" someone posted, no it doesn't . It can't , there is no logical reason for an outlet to upgrade sound…same goes for power cables…electrons are still flowing at the same speed…..
I think it should be mentioned that the electrician runs both dedicated lines to the same leg (phase) at the service panel. Then your entire system will be wired to the same phase.
"Why stop with the receptacles? Why not run $1000/ft power cable from the outlet all the way back to the breaker box? Then pay the power company to continue the run back to the distribution grid, and ultimately a dedicated line all the way back to the power generating station."
" To the power station?" That's crazy!
If upgraded power cords and receptacles make a difference then, of course, continuing the upgrade through the walls and to the breaker makes just as much sense. But continuing beyond that (to the power station) is just too expensive. Instead, to really squeeze that last remaining bit of audible performance (and bragging rights) out of your system, get a
Multiquip WhisperWatt Super-Silent Diesel Generator instead. It is on sale now for $51,000 and a steal considering what a dramatic improvement in transparency, sound stage and clarity it will make.
According to UL and NEMA, the only difference between a 125 vac 15 amp receptacle and a 20 amp receptacle, is the plastic cover governing the type of plug it will accept. I installed two dedicated 12/2 lines, each having hospital grade single 20 amp receptacles, for my monoblocks. They’re both on the same buss at the breaker box. All my “hi-fi” receptacles are on the same buss. As far as the receptacle covers influencing the overall sound, that’s something I’ve never considered. Unless you have a Faraday cage, we are all exposed to unending amounts of EMF and radio waves going through us and our listening rooms at all times. IMO, such nuances as special receptacle plates have little effect on the sound. I do realize that if you add a lot of subtle tweeks to your system, they add up, but to diminishing returns. I know-unless one has tried it...etc etc.
Why stop with the receptacles? Why not run $1000/ft power cable from the outlet all the way back to the breaker box? Then pay the power company to continue the run back to the distribution grid, and ultimately a dedicated line all the way back to the power generating station.
Imagine the improvement with the carbon fiber wall cover too.
tatooedtrackman
First I only had install the carbon fiber on the GTX G, nothing special noticed. Only months later, I installed the Wall Plate, and I had noticed improvement with the wall plate. May be the fiber cover help with this favorable combination...
I'm a believer of using the audiophile quality outlets, I have five Furutech GTX-D(R) receptacles and one CNF split between two systems. I can't say for certain that I hear a difference using the Furutech Duplex Cover Plate 104-D. Just saying...
laserjock1963....Im not worried about my CPD tripping on the 15A circuit. I do want a dedicated line for my CDP whether it be a 15A or 20A makes no difference to me but i did want and buy the Furutech GTX -d r receptacle for my CDP and since i have to run a dedicated line it might as well be a 20A line and breaker for the furutech. And NO i cant run my whole system on a 15A breaker for my Krell FPB 600 and ARC Ref 6.
About the only difference is that one side of the plug is horizontal vs both being vertically oriented hence the “t” on the receptacle.
I can’t rememebr seeing any household item that has it other than a hefty audio amplifier. (Heck, they even make and sell adaptors for them)
I used to work on medical lasers that could pull up to 17amps and some of the mobile laser companies would take pliers and twist the horizontal terminal to vertical so it would plug into a 15A receptacle. (noted on my service report)
Are you the the only person in this house?
Your CDP will never get close to tripping a 15A breaker and you could probably run your whole system off of it without an issue.
@audiosens.........So u are saying you did hear a difference with the Furutech wall plate with the GTX gold? And the improvement was just as a good improvement as much as having the NFC duplex alone?
@audiosens..........Furutech dose not make the double carbon fiber frame and outlet cover. Which i will need 1 double . Oyaide makes the double carbon fiber face plate and aluminum base all attached (WPC-Z2) The price is $374.99. Now, Furutech does have the GTX single carbon fiber wall frame $160 and GTX 104-D outlet cover $120. And Oyaide has the single carbon fiber with the aluminum base attached WPC-Z, $239.99. VH Audio sells them. {Oyaide covers } The difference in cost between the 2 single covers is only $40. But since if i do splurge and go with the Oyaide carbon fiber double cover with aluminum base i might as well also go with the single one from Oyaide. Also when i asked AH Audio if the Oyaide carbon fiber covers will fit with the Furutch GTX-d r , he said that they do fit and he uses them with his Furutech GTX-d r. He also said that there is and will be a 40% to 60% improvement with the Oyaide carbon fiber covers with the Furutech GTX -d r than not having them.
tatooedtrackman Pay
attention to to little screws, with the « Furutech Wall
Plate », use only a little watchmaker's screwdrivwer and
slightly thighting in an easy manner. Remember that your audio
system is fed with electricity, and we (audiophile) have to pay
attention to AC, AC Cable, IC, « Binding Post », all
place where electricity pass through. Enjoy music
tatooedtrackman How important is the wall covers and wall frame ?????
The wall cover I think is less important, than the wall plate, because the wall plate isolate vibrations and RFI. I tried the wall plate on GTX Gold and now, it has gave me as good improvement as a NCF Duplex alone. Enjoy music
Just for the record, not intending to judge too harshly, ceramic wall outlet covers sound much better than brass ones. But not for the reason you think. It’s also partly why ceramic feet/cones sound much better than brass ones. Hint: it’s good old physics. And it has nothing to do with magnetism.
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