outboard crossover users, how important is the hook up wire from crossover to drivers.
I’m running Shindo and vintage Altecs Valencias from 1968, along with a Jagusch crossover . I’m using Auditorium 23 from amp to crossover, and short runs of Duelund 16 GA (oil tinned copper) from X-over to drivers. I experimented with Belden (orange/black) in there, but preferred the organic presentation of the Duelunds. My Auditorium is 2.5 meter, and the Duelund runs are about 3 ft, so I’m keeping signal paths short. Allow me to cut to the chase...I have purchased an extra run of Auditorium, equal in length to my current pair. I am considering using one of my A23 cables in place of the Duelund. The Auditorium would have to be cut and re-terminated to make this happen. I’m also aware that this would throw an ax in their resale value, but I’m ok with that. I like the Duelund, but as the old adage goes...your system is only as good as it’s weakest link.
In my system (fully horn-loaded) I've first experimented with Belden but was never happy with their presentation. I find the Belden wire to be slightly rough and lacking transparency. I've replaced it with solid core Neotech UP-OCC connecting wire, 16AWG, which is quite rigid and annoying to work with but sounds fantastic. Big, big upgrade over the Belden. |
An OB design can easily become a sounding board as it rocks back and forth and resonates with the music. Outboard networks have been proven to be an improvement in overall sound quality in many types of speaker an OB without a cabinet but with a network placed poorly would suffer vibrations in networks. |
EXTREMELY, depending on the jumpers that come with them, and your speaker cables. Case in point: Emerald Physics Open Baffle's weakest link was the pathetic quality of the supplied jumpers for 2 reasons 1. the pathetically cheap jumpers sounded like crap, which is a major reason why the speakers weren't more popular 2. they were too short, forcing the XOs to be placed on the bases, which shake like crazy when music is playing |
@johnk I have tried the Duelund tin plated (same as tweeter and mid driver wire) as speaker wire, bare wire connections, prefer my Cardas with connectors.
If I went full bore with this and your other post, I'd go with Cardas sans connectors and ditch binding posts at both amps and crossover.
And then we have issue of power cable connectors, ditching those requires inline fuse holder in components and lots of work to modify my power conditioner. One can get really crazy with this! |
The one channel option is a great idea. However, the A23 stock cable (and most all other twisted strand cables) will not allow me to reach the woofer and horn. So the cable would need some surgery regardless.
Not sure if I’m understanding you johnk...? Current configuration is. Auditorium 23 from Shindo monos to Werner Jagusch crossover. The X-over sits on the floor under my speaker...Then there are 4 single wire runs of Duelund running from crossover to each speaker. I use bare wire runs on the Duelund...A23 is standard banana configuration. |
I agree with @johnk Mike |
I have highly modded Klipschorns and run the same Duelund wire to tweeter and mid driver, use Furutech (forget the model) to woofer. I've not heard the Auditorium, but you should know what it would provide vs Duelund since already using it. So, based on what you expect on voicing, why not go for it. Generally speaking, I don't worry about things like resale value, I'm doing mods purely for attaining certain sound qualities, and I'm all in with them. I did well over $7k in mods to my Merlin VSM-MM, speaker with market value somewhere around $3.5K |
