I have highly modded Klipschorns and run the same Duelund wire to tweeter and mid driver, use Furutech (forget the model) to woofer. I've not heard the Auditorium, but you should know what it would provide vs Duelund since already using it. So, based on what you expect on voicing, why not go for it. Generally speaking, I don't worry about things like resale value, I'm doing mods purely for attaining certain sound qualities, and I'm all in with them. I did well over $7k in mods to my Merlin VSM-MM, speaker with market value somewhere around $3.5K
outboard crossover users, how important is the hook up wire from crossover to drivers.
I’m running Shindo and vintage Altecs Valencias from 1968, along with a Jagusch crossover . I’m using Auditorium 23 from amp to crossover, and short runs of Duelund 16 GA (oil tinned copper) from X-over to drivers. I experimented with Belden (orange/black) in there, but preferred the organic presentation of the Duelunds. My Auditorium is 2.5 meter, and the Duelund runs are about 3 ft, so I’m keeping signal paths short. Allow me to cut to the chase...I have purchased an extra run of Auditorium, equal in length to my current pair. I am considering using one of my A23 cables in place of the Duelund. The Auditorium would have to be cut and re-terminated to make this happen. I’m also aware that this would throw an ax in their resale value, but I’m ok with that. I like the Duelund, but as the old adage goes...your system is only as good as it’s weakest link.
Showing 2 responses by sns
@johnk I have tried the Duelund tin plated (same as tweeter and mid driver wire) as speaker wire, bare wire connections, prefer my Cardas with connectors.
If I went full bore with this and your other post, I'd go with Cardas sans connectors and ditch binding posts at both amps and crossover.
And then we have issue of power cable connectors, ditching those requires inline fuse holder in components and lots of work to modify my power conditioner. One can get really crazy with this! |