Older vs. newer REL subs
I have a REL 328 (ca. 2013) which I bought used. It's a good sub.
https://www.hifiplus.com/articles/rel-r-328-subwoofer/
I would like to upgrade to stereo subs and I've found (finally) another REL 328 which would match mine. But, before I drop coin on that, I'm wondering if anyone has had experience comparing their older REL with a newer one. What's changed? What's better, worse, or the same? I'm considering the T7x and T9x lines.
Hoping for apples to apples comparisons, vis a vis driver size, type of sub (e.g. level of product line, sealed vs. ported, music vs. HT etc.) but whatever old vs. newer comparison you have much appreciated.
Thanks.
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@missioncoonery -- I hope you can shed some light on what aspects of music improved when you moved up from REL's T to S line? My room is 20 x 15, when I called REL customer service they said T9i will be good enough (I already own one) for my room and listening preferences. But a lot of people have told me that there is a distinct advantage when moving up the line regardless of room size. Is it about more bass or an increase in punch and texture or both? TIA. |
Hello, I would get the matching older sub for right now. Everyone says get two matching subs. If you buy the matching sub to your current sub you will have a pair. This should make them both more valuable. I have a pair of the T9’s. I love them. The i or x models are front firing and the older version like mine are down firing with a passive front woofer. I agree if you are buying new subs get the S series for music. I use a home theater pass through on my system. I like that the Rel subs have Speakon and RCA for music and LFE RCA for the movies all separately adjustable. They go down to 28hz so I might add a KEF KF92 sub just for the theater side to go down to 11hz. We will see. Grab the matching sub to yours for now. Wait for a deal on the new REL stuff. |
https://rel.net/blog/2019-10-16/principles-of-sound/old-vs-new/ trust folks who care about this subject has seen this ^^^^ of course the answer is predictable, coming from rel marketers :) grist for the mill, so to speak i myself cannot be more happy with my two pair of older q150e’s and storm iii’s when needed, to augment proacs quad esl’s spendors |
@hilde45 I wasn’t trying to put my spin on the S series and T series uses. When I bought mine from the REL distributor here in Aus, I asked the same question and got the answer I put to you. It would seem that I was misled. So apologies to you, all commentators and to REL. I still like my S/3s I bought 8 years ago. AG🇦🇺 |
@amg -- Thanks for the clarification. I've now heard from two REL dealers that explained why the S series was better but also from another user who's said that a person at REL said that either the 9 or the S would be good. I think it's typically a no lose situation for a dealer to recommend something higher up the line. They make money and their custoers avoid cognitive dissonance by assuming they're hearing a difference they never really got a chance to test methodically, over time. So, the marketing literature which initially seems like blather can become an important buttress for the customer *after* purchase. One thing that keeps me thinking about going somewhere else than REL is the adjustable phase in other subs, such as Rythmik. |
Had a nice exchange with my speaker maker, Jim Salk. Salk had not heard the RELs and he has nothing negative to say about them. He commented to me about the differences he saw between REL at the T9x level and the Rythmik 12SE. The REL T9 lacks phase control other than 0/180. What he likes about more adjustable phase control is that it helps dial in the phase correctly. As he put it, "If the subwoofer driver is not in the exact same plane as the woofers in the main speakers, you must set the phase such that the two are in phase with one another over the crossover region. If not, you may have nulls in the overall output." I'd only add that give one's rooms nodal regions, one might not *want* to put the woofers on the "exact same plane" as the mains. After all the measuring I did, I'd hate to have to do that with my subs. He also noted that the REL subs I was looking at (not the more expensive RELS) use A/B amplifiers but better subs are now using digital Class D amplifiers (Hypex's Ncore amps or Purifi, etc.) He likes these amps because they run cooler and have a lot of power for the size while doing a good job of controlling the woofers. Finally, he likes subs with direct servo control. As he explained it, on a sub's two voice coils, one drives the woofer cone while the other is fed back to the plate amp’s servo circuitry. "The servo circuit monitors in the input and calculates exactly where the cone needs to be to produce the signal at the input. Using the second voice coil, it determines exactly where the cone is. If it is not in the position is needs to be in, the gain is automatically increased or decreased as necessary. All of this happens in real time. So you end up with very accurate response that is very musical as well." Finally, he likes that in the direct servo system [for the models I am comparing] the sub plays deeper. You can easily get flat response down to 20Hz with a 12” sub." People love REL's and whether these technical differences make a difference is up to everyone's ears. But for the same price as the T9/x, it seems the Rythmik is quite amenable to careful adjustments. Until I'm in a room where I can get a swarm, I have the chance to get a sub which is easier to blend with my mains; I have technical know how about use REW along with the added technologies on the Rythmik to dial it in. And a 45 day window for return. It's very tempting. |
Dude, if you can get a pair of Salks there should be no question. Everything Jim said was spot on. Im still holding true to what I said about a pair of T9x’s blowing your socks off, but my personal choice would be Salk (Rythmik) subs. ...you sure are making it hard keeping up with “The Joneses” by the way, and I Love It! Ugh, off to look at Subs and talk to the tooth fairy about inflation... molars are the most valuable / easily replaced correct? |
@b_limo Lol! Well, I'm not sure I need to invest in fancy cabinets for a sub, especially since that will increase the weight -- and the wait! And also, if I re-sell, best not to have chosen wood that's too particular. By the way, on the servo issue, here's Mcgowan: https://youtu.be/Vk3ti1nTtZ8?t=171 |
@missioncoonery I love my current REL. But I have less experience and knowledge than others and the issue of integrating two subs is not just a "go and listen proposition" for me. There's more to it than that, for me. Still, I'm glad you can wrap up the issue so easily for yourself! Congrats on having such confidence in your subs. I hope to get there, myself. |
as i see it, the last word in pairing subs to main speakers should be from the maker of the mains - if you have bought into the mains 100% then follow his advice - you will hear what he intends for you to hear that said, rel has been around a long long time, with many many very satisfied customers... they are true experts and specialists in the field and have not strayed from their central mission, it is hard to imagine their subs, past or present, to be lacking the controls to properly integrate into systems done right, would imagine either path leads to excellent results |
@jjss49 Absolutely right. There's a tendency in discussions to set up an "either/or" when in fact the better answer is "both/and." |
I’ve got about a months experience with the new t/7x. It is an incredible upgrade over the i/series. They are extremely fast, play fast and loud (if needed). Took my two channel office system to another dimension. It is definitely a permanent fixture in my setup. Even REL states the new 7x is the sweet spot sub outside of their reference line. Pull the trigger; you’ll be glad you did. |
I may go with REL yet. There’s pretty much a drumbeat for REL and I can understand why. I have a REL and it’s very musical and the company’s been extraordinary to work with, in terms of communication and support. That said, I’m trying out a couple of Rythmiks. I placed an order yesterday, to be fulfilled (hopefully) in June. I have a trial for those. I have consistently found value in products that are not from very large companies with a lot of marketing, advertising, and dealer overhead. Quicksilver, Fritz, Salk, MHDT have all provided amazing value. That said, REL has the R&D and customer testimony (and economy of scale) to meet a very high quality metric, so I don’t discount their ability to hit the mark, too. Just a different path. But for now I want to try Rythmik because I have spent a lot of time trying to integrate my REL -- especially dealing with room gain in the 70-80 hz spectrum. The lack of control I have over the REL is making this impossible. I need more control on the unit. But I don't want to spend $5000 a sub. (Or near that.) Consider what is available in the Reference Rels -- Parametic EQ to (as the REL manual states) "cure certain room acoustics challenges" The manual continues, "Application: Most rooms produce room gain--higher output--in the upper bass region, typically in the 70-80Hz region. Generally speaking, most rooms have reduced gain in the low bass regions, somewhere in the mid-20’s to mid-30’s area. For this reason, we provide you the ability to produce noteworthy improvements in both trouble regions by gently cutting the higher bass frequencies and gently boosting the lower region. The ability to deal with room gain at a price point I’m capable of is why I’m trying Rythmik, first, this time around. |
Without having read the seventy plus responses I'd guess there are less than ten responses that have ever used any other subwoofer then their REL. You already have a REL. I recall listening to a small pair of Salk Sound Veracity speakers at a show. They demonstrated their bass performance by cutting in a 12" Rythmik subwoofer. Those little speakers did very well on their own. I managed to get much better texture from a large beautifully built $9K REL Stadium III locating it in the rooms main mode placing it on its side and slaving an optimized low level signal from another subwoofer. Better than no sub at all is all I'd say about REL. Who rates subs at -6dB? Forget the stereo. Crawl test and map your room for the two loudest modes. Place your Rythmik in, or close to one, and the REL in the other. Get two pairs of inexpensive long interconnects from Blue Jeans or Monoprice and use the L/R RCA outputs from the Rythmik to your REL. Now go beat your own drum. |
I'm torn on what to upgrade with. One of my R218's broke and I haven't had much luck fixing or finding a 2nd used one. In my haste I bought two T5x and for 2 channel music and it's pretty good and is satisfying enough. I compared it to my one working R218 and the R218 definitely hits harder. Not trying to chase bass for music hence going with the T5x pair (for cost and enough dynamics) I decide to hook up the R218 for my centre channel after seeing a Youtube on Rel 3D. WOW! One thing I miss is having more HT impact so I'm on the lookout for a pair of S3 SHO (22Hz) which on paper hit lower than the R218 pair (25Hz). The T5x can be used for the rear surrounds or in another system. The new S/510 (20Hz) is just out of my price range. The T9x (27Hz) may not be enough. |
I believe everyone is forgetting how important the room treatment is especially when it comes to low frequencies. A rel T series can sound much better in a treated room than a rel S series in a regular room. It doesn't matter if the subwoofer is very fast in a room that has no bass absorption --> You will hear the low frequencies reverberation instead of the actual sound getting from the speaker. Of course you will also hear the reverberation of the main speakers. The dealers usually have treated rooms in which you can hear the differences between S and T series but at home the difference may be minimal and more related to price and placebo effect. To make an idea: a subwoofer can sound 2 or 3 times better in a treated room than in a regular room, so save some budget for low frequency absorption too.
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I am also interested in this subject and how does R-328 compare with a T series. The R-328 is powered by a 350W class D amplifier but it's an older model (The R series is the equivalent of the newer S series) T9x is powered by a 300W class AB amplifier T7x = 200 W class AB amplifier The class D amplifiers are "faster" because they have a much better damping control than class AB amplifiers. The price of a second hand R-328 is close to the price of a new T9x I suspect that the R-328 is a bit faster and better than the T9x (also based on the specs) but is there anyone that listened to both in the same room?
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@hilde45 What ended up happening when you got the Rhythmic Sub in? |
@shahram I got two Rythmik subs. In addition to the REL, I was able to position and adjust them to within +/- 4db between 20 and 400 Hz. Sounds excellent. The Rythmiks' adjustable phase was what made it all possible. |