Is it possible a 20 amp outlet can make a big difference in SQ?


This is a somewhat rhetorical question, but I'm interested if anyone has a similar experience, or can explain why...

I have one duplex outlet to power everything. I assumed it was 15 amp so a few months ago I replaced the outlet with a hospital grade 15 amp outlet. (fwiw there are 4 wires, 2 white 2 black). My tube amp is plugged directly into the wall.

On Friday the air-con went out so I had a reason to check the fuse box - and realized that the circuit powering my AV is 20 amp.

So I replaced the outlet with the same brand and grade but 20 amp. 

I was surprised that there was a significant change in SQ - I'd say dynamics are faster, more detailed, more powerful. 

If I'd spent $500 or more I'd factor in the mental bias but I spent $20 and expected nothing.

Am I imagining this?

Any thoughts? 

macg19

Back wires are good, back stabbing is bad.

Back wires use two plates held together by a screw. Back stabbing use spring loaded prongs pushed through the plastic case and IMHO should not ever be used.

Back wires are really good for daisy chained connections. They avoid the little clippable jumper between screws.


I put pictures up on a blog post on a related subject here:

 

https://speakermakersjourney.blogspot.com/2022/01/audiophile-ac-outlets-for-frugal.html

@carlsbad2

You mistake the difference between electrical safety and audiophile sound.

No mistake.

I’ve been working with heavy load electricity on a regular basis since 1977, the first time I tied into a 400 amp commercial panel. I’ve got 20 years of first-hand experience with audiophile grade AC cables - and 10 years of experience with audiophile grade AC connectors. There’s no confusion here.

. . . but they won’t get hot . . .

Apparently, you weren’t at my home last year when an outlet failed. I smelled something burning. The outlet was quite hot when I touched it.

Pulling out your physicist card doesn’t impress me.

@carlsbad2 @steakster Both outlets I used have back wire and side wire options. The back wire option is NOT a spring loaded push in - I read up on this - the spring loaded/quick connect option is not recommended.

I did use the back wire connection. I cut the bare wire to length according to the guide on the back of the outlet, sanded the bare wire, then pushed the screws all the way in which fully opens the clamp, then tightened the screws. The connections are solid, no bare wire exposed, no electrical tape used. 

@steakster You mistake the difference between electrical safety and audiophile sound.  for example, the push in stabs are not going to give you audiophile sound with a point contact but they won't get hot or burn the house down.  

 

macg19,

Sorry I meant to tag you. 
I wanted to be certain that the gauge wire in your rented home is correct for 20 amp circuit breakers.

OP:

Also depends on the original installation and age. If you cleaned the terminals with fine grit sand paper before re-installation and tightened everything properly it is possible the better sound comes from elbow-grease rather than hardware.

By the way, I found the Leviton 90 degree, hospital grade plugs to be really tight, and the 90 degree feature super convenient for saving space around the sockets:

 

https://amzn.to/3XUV7e6

My outlets are in the corner behind my bass traps so this type of plug saved me several inches of floor space.

 

Best,

Erik "cryo"

@lak Note you tagged a different AG member...anyway, I don't know what gauge the wiring is. I can only assume the house is wired to code - the majority of the breakers are 20 amp. 

@erik_squires this was my understanding but I thought the 20 amp outlet may allow a bit more current. Maybe, maybe not.

Not going to tear the 15 amp apart - at this point I'm happy that the new outlet is properly installed maybe the old one was not - and after a lot more listening, for sure there is major improvement in SQ.  

I doubt changing the amp rating of the outlet, but keeping all other things the same (brand, line,, etc) would matter by itself.

There’s two things I immediately think about:

  • All 15A outlets in the US are rated to be on 20A circuits. To do that they have to have the internal conductors as thick as a 20A socket.
  • Some manufacturers improve economy of scale by making the 15A and 20A outlets identical behind the faceplate. Same conductors, wipers and plastics.

If you aren’t going to re-use that 15A outlet may be fun to take a hand grinder/multitool (i.e. Dremel) to the face and remove it to see if it doesn’t have the T shaped wipers of the 20A units.

The reason for the multi-rating is areas like a kitchen, where you may have multiple appliances going. They may each be under 15A, but by using a 20A circuit you can minimize breaker tripping.

The 20A plugs are usually reserved for commercial settings and 1-2 outlet circuits where the electrician wants to indicate "this is where you can plug in the hotel vacuum. "

I had three dedicated 20amp circuits run to my living room when I needed to upgrade the main panel. It was a substantial improvement over the two regular circuits previously, quieter noise floor, better dynamics, more cohesive sound.

 

I didn't go crazy, quality outlets, copper 12ga wire, good Breakers, and quality grounding. It made a bigger difference than some component upgrades.

Post removed 

@carlsbad

No, I did not change the power cord at the same time.

I did not change any of the breaker switches - most are 20 amp.

Note I rent the house - I mention that to explain why I wasn’t super familiar with the breaker box.

Now that you mention it - it is possible the previous 15 amp outlet was improperly installed - this was in Dec - I was trying to do way too much after back surgery - so that could be it.

In any case, glad I found a reason to rectify the issue whatever it was...and for sure there is a lesson here:)

Thanks Jerry

You describe the improvements you get from rectifying an inadequate power problem.  You didn't change the power cord at the same time did you?  The most common cause of this problem is an inadequately sized (say 14-16 awg) power cord.

My guess is the 15 amp outlet was poorly installed or defective.

Never use the push holes in the back of an outlet, use the screws and bend a loop in the end of the wire.

Now for electrical safety discussion: How do you know the breaker is correct? Realize that the breaker is sized to protect the wires in the wall. for a 20 amp circuit, you need 12 awg wire. Hopefully that i what you have. If you have 14 awg wire, you should put a 15 amp breaker in. No need to change the outlet other than if it has the horizontal slot it could confuse someone, but not likely in your listening room.

 

Jerry