How to select a good Speaker Cable

Hi,

My speaker cables are 3meters long and the DM is 320 (Luxmam 590AX Markll 

Many thanks
Peter 

pls...someone close this whole 'cables' forum folder...

Mr. kiwipeter

For 3 m and DF = 320, a #1 awg is recommended (you can go also with #0 awg).

b4icu,

Glad to see are you are well and offering useful free advice.

You may recall I used your DIY 0 AWG cable (relatively flexible thin strand welder's cable) to connect Pass Lab 250.5 to Magnepan MGIIIa's.  Fantastic results.

I have changed the amp to a Devialet 120 Class D integrated.  It loves you cables.  My simplistic system consists of an Auralic Aries connected to the 120, driving the Maggies.  In addition, I use the pre-out/electronic crossover to connect a 12" Velodyne FSX.  The room is 35x25x14ft.  All electronics are power by a Yeti 1000 drawing less than 50 watts.

I noted that you referenced Class D amplification above.  Would you be so kind as to share your information as to why your designs work so well with Class D amps.  I am assuming that you have not already addressed this issue.  I have not read all of the posts on this thread.

Best Regards,

J

Hi Mr. keppertup

I remember you well. One of the guys who implemented my cable advice and was happy with the results:

"Pass Lab 250.5 with Magnepan III's.

I replaced DIY 5 foot 16 AWG silver ladder line.  Have previously used a variety of commercial Helix design, solid flat wire and braided multi-stranded wires insulated and in multiple sleeves. All 12 AWG, 5 to 8 foot length.  Costs ranged from $400 to $2,000.

Dear b4icu57,

I purchased 25 feet of 0 AWG form a supplier on eBay for $45 ($12 shipping) and four brass (supposedly gold plated) battery connectors ($7.49).

I constructed four five foot cables in just over one hour.  Battery connectors were converted to spades with a cold chisel and wire cutters, cable was cut with a hacksaw and insulation stripped with the hacksaw.  Spades were connected to Pass Labs 250.5 terminals (PL does not supply banana plug receptacles).  I attached banana plugs to a two inch piece of silver plated 8 AWG wire.  I hollowed out a holle in 0 AWG wire with a punch and did not remove insulation.  I then inserted the stripped 8 AWG wire in hole and secured the assembly with a hose clamp around the insulation at the cable’s end.

The cables were attached to my thirty year old modified MG IIIa’s.  

The results are stunning.  The amount of undistorted energy filling the room, is jaw dropping.  I keep turning up the volume to levels that previously irritated my ears, and experience no irritation.  In the modified lyrics of B.B. King, “The shrill is gone.”  My wife is hearing new detail in cuts she has listened to many times before.

In my case, b4icu57, you were absolutely correct, thank you (except for the part of you doubting ribbon speakers would be improved with installation of your design).  I can’t wait to try the cables in one of my other systems that employs cone speakers.

I am sure every case is different.  Nevertheless, I encourage other hobbyist to test your theories.

Thank you for your generosity and patience.
All good wishes."

Well, Class-D, tend to have a Spec. of high to very high DF (Dumping Factor). It is in the thousands...

As DF is a representation of Ro (output Resistance) and equals to 8/Ro, a DF of 4000 (common to D-Class Amps) is 0.002 ohms.

If I compare it to your PASS Labs 250, with a DF of 150, it's Ro equals to:

0.053 ohms. In other words. it's 26 times lower Ro, of better DF !

How it is achieved: 

D-Class is a high speed switching power device. It uses some H-FET or equivalent high power and very low ON resistance, between the power rails and the output. That's the DF or Ro are coming from.

For the Devialet 120 (replaced an older model called 110, and now they are at 140...) I'd found no Spec. regarding it's DF. I'll try to contact them later today to ask their technical support about the DF figure.

As It was on my last thread, it is also now (Physics didn't change), the higher the DF (same cables length) the importance of thick cables grows.

The other parameter that I use in my calculations, is the cable length. 

I assume the length is the same: 6 ft.?

Hi
Here is Mr.  Hiroko (Devialet) replay:

Hiroko (Devialet)

Jul 29, 2020, 12:04 PM GMT+2

Dear Michael,

Thank you very much for reaching out to us today.

I have received an answer from our engineer.
Please kindly be informed that the Spect of DF of the 120 is 8000.

Hope it helps your inquiry.

Have a great day!
Kind Regards,

Hiroko | Customer service & support Devialet

8000 is a very high figure for DF.
The highest I've ever seen!!!

For the calculations, you wont like it at all...
It calls for 25x 0 awg! @ 6ft. long cable.
This is impossible and very thick.
I would say:
1. Go as thick as you possible can.
2. Some  Devialet amps can be used as monoblock.
If you could afford that, a very short cable (10'' or less) would make it better, using still a thick cable (maybe #000 awg or 4x0 awg).

It might be that a second answer will arrive directly from their main office in Paris, with whom I spoke on the phone today.
If they provide a different figue, I'll update you.

Dear b4icu,

Thank you very much for the generous investment of your valuable time.

I look forward to hearing if Devialet in Paris has any additional information.

I will experiment with doubling up the 0 AWG six foot lengths.  You haven't been wrong yet, so I expect interesting results. 

Best regards,

J

Hi
Even though you may double the #0 awg, it is far from go all the required way by calculations.
I suspect that the way a D-Class Amp’s DF is calculated, may not be the actual DF.
I’m not shure. So things might be some less extreme than 8,000! 
However, the numbers are still high in relative to an A-B Class.

Doubling would do better. Hope you know how to get there...
Please be kind to update on progress and results.
Thanks.

I figured up of how to make a 4x 0 awg. It is a bit costly here (Israel).
For some #0 awg cable, I about to receive any day now, I paid $130 per
each 20ft cable. So a pair of 10ft. #0 awg, I will end up with $370 for the BOM.
a 4x 0 awg would pile up to way over $1k.
I don’t want to think of what a thicker cable will cost like!
I'm building a cable for domestic demo. 

Dear Michael,

The Devialet site states the following:

What makes a Devialet unique and standing out from any competition is its patenting amplification section ADH (Class A / Class D Hybrid). What you get to hear is the purity of a class A together with the efficiency of a class D. This allows us to have the best of both world.

Secondly, there is a DAC which is an integral part of the amplifier's circuitry and makes it difficult not to use.

Those 2 stages together give us such incredible characteristics such as less than 0.001% THD and less than 0.001 Ohm of output impedance. This alone gives you a damping factor between 6000 and 10000 which is HUGE! That means that the Devialet really holds the speaker. This results in a very precise sound stage and extremely well defined basses.

I buy 0 AWG on eBay for less than $2 per foot ( 1/0 AWG Gauge Copper Wire Cable, Super Vu-Tron Type W 2000V Heavy Duty with a flexible rubber sheath welding cable).  I prefer the "Welding Cable" with a rubber insulation since it is more flexible.  The strands are of a higher gauge.  I have tried "Power Supply Wiring" 0 AWG made with lower gauge strands and vinyl sheath.  It is much more difficult to work with as it not as flexible.  I noticed no difference in sound. 

Are you confident that your calculations apply to Magnepan speakers?  My experience so far suggests they do.

Thanks for your patience and help.

All good wishes,

J

OP,
On a lighter note, with quite a bit of reality:

Easiest way:
1. Know your budget (I am sure you are aware of this)
2. Read user reviews/experience, discuss with them (you are currently doing this)
3. Try the 2-3 cables that you finalized on, in your system (do this if you can)

There might be the best cable on earth that costs $50k. But does it's geometry or resistance or shielding matter to you if you cannot afford it :-)

Mr. milpai
The budget is really not the issue here.
All members who tried the recommended cable (DIY) ended up spending under $100.-
As Mr. keppertup did, who is one post before yours, says he found a source on eBay, with 0 awg cables, at $2 a foot. (4x6x2=$48).

If you can’t afford $48 or $100, than your kind words and idea may apply.
I think that all can afford such an expense. That’s my reality.
You see, I do not recommend geometry or other snake oil treatments to make a nice profit and charge for a shitty cable $50k.
What I offer is a service for free. The implementation will be really low cost and the results: stunning.

Even better: What else would improve your sound (by any scale) at this amount?

The sonic benefit was huge. The outcome: some remained in contact and we become friends.

I stand behind my say, and I'm NOT the president of the United State :-)
(From the movie Mr. President, with Michael Douglas).

Thank you Mr. keppertup

I read about Devialet products and concept, found them to very innovative and creative. They have indede some very interesting products and designs: both electronically as well as the look.
Using D class direct with a DAC is a good idea, saving a lot of circuitry, by driving the output power Amp almost directly with a digital signal...
That shown also in the fantastic Spec. numbers.
Would you please be kind to pass me the link for your cable ($2 per ft.).
Thanks.
I ordered 2 (one red and one blue) of 20ft at $75 each.
The problem is, that because of size and weight, it gets to $130 each,
including shipping. 

Micheal,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/WELDING-CABLE-1-0-BLACK-25-FT-BATTERY-LEADS-USA-NEW-Gauge-Copper-AWG-Solar/...

Hope this helps.  Price includes approximately $20 shipping within US.  The listing does state that they ship internationally.

I just ordered this cable for 2x 0 AWG experiment.

I did add a 12 AWG pair of cables to the existing 0 AWG cables.  The sound changed.  My interest in the experiment has increased.

Used Devialet 120’s are pretty reasonable after considering the package includes a preamp, amplifier, DAC and a two-way electronic crossover.

Best regards,

J

Thanks

Different cables sound different.

if cables sound....stick them into your ears....then tell us how do they sound, ok?

Mr. kozka

Your name is a "dice" (kocka) in Hungarian. Best regards (Egészségért).

To whom do you answer with your post?

For the sake of this conversation, we are in speaker cables and their effect on the system’s sound. Just semantics...
They do make a difference. It can be shown with calculations.
It can be demonstrated by two different cables, of the same length, but different cross section.

No one recommend to stuck a cable into someone's ear. Especially not one as thick as
#0 awg as I offered to some.

I just love cable fantasies combined with insanity. Say do you need a cable cooker to make these work right? Are they directional?

Mr. mahlman

I do not use Voodoo or other kinds of magic  to get to a better sound.
I use physics, and mathematics (Electronics) to calculate and build a cable. That's the only thing that makes sense to me. 

Directional: Sound is an AC signal. It's nature to flow 50% of the time in one direction and the other 50% of the time in the other. (Nyquist theory, that all AC signals can be broken down into sine waves, is the basic of digital Audio!).
When you claim on a cable it's directional, which  50% of the time it benefits, and which  50% of the time it doesn't?

Cooker: the melting point of Copper is:  1,085 °C
In the process of making a cable, it is melted. Once it solidifies, the metal structure is set. No heating under that melting point would change that.
So is the other direction: Cryo treatment. No effect on conductivity.
When using supper conductivity, in extreme cold: (close to the 0 Kelvin = -297 °C) it is not a copper conductor, but composite material. None apply to Audio. They are used in supercomputers or cold fusion attempts.

Do you have more Speaker cables sales BS?  
It's fun to crash them, one at a time. There are so many. The latest is called: Geometry.
It will expend for Quantum physics, String theory, Singularity quiq to come and maybe lean over older fashioned religious blessing or cursing, to get ignorance to the a new hight.

As some issues on cables and speaker cables were pointed out (directional and cooker), I feel that the obvious need to be said:

All cable stories ever been told by speaker cables makers or sales rep's,
are a lie. An ugly lie, to enhance sales over clients ignorance. 

The fact is, that none of them ever came out with a reasonable say what cable we need, or why cable A is better than cable B. A shame.
An entire industry sale a product, that they have absolutely no idea what
it should be to fit a customer's sound system.

This is the situation even in those very moments, I'm writing those lines. 

Dear Michael,

You are right, again.

0 AWG wire delivered yesterday.  Within two hours I had it installed in the system.  Each side is now driven by 2x0 AWG cable.  Best $67 tweak, yet.

Two steps closer to believing the performers are in the room.  New aural clues being processed by my tiny brain.  Resolution from 30hz to 16khz was improved.

In-room Pink Noise Real Time Analyzer graph unchanged.  Response curve is slightly jagged but flat.

I used a different type of cable for the second run (Welding cable linked above).  I was unable to source the cable used for the first batch of cables.  The new cable is more flexible and easier to work with.  It's OD is 9/16" and therefore the plastic hose clamps previous used did not work well.  Metal screw tightening hose clamps would work, but they are a bit cumbersome.  Consequently, I wrapped the cable ends with Gorilla tape to hold the walls of the insulation.  I then screwed a #12 1- 1/2" brass round head wood screw into the center of the cable strands to secure a #10 eyelet with a 3" 10 AWG tail crimped and soldered to it. Spades at one end and banana plugs at the other were installed to the eight tails for connection to the system. Exposed surfaces were wrapped with Gorilla tape pending the ordering and installation of heat shrink tubing.

The speaker cables are 5 feet long, not six. At the risk of being redundant, do your calculations suggest an additional one or two 0 AWG cables would further improve the performance of the system?  If you think further improvement can be achieved, I will be ordering another length of cable.

Again, thanks for the generosity of your time and talent.

All good wishes,

J

Hi Mr. keppertup

Congratulations. You really make me happy with your great news.
I wish to share that I also received my cables today (from the US). Slight delay of 2 days, due to COVID-19. No big deal.

The best way for you, would be to get two monoblocks of such high DF, and get a short as possible cable. Less than 10’’!

I need you to understand that the only parameter that matters, is the cables resistance vs. the Amp’s output resistance (Ro).
So the different type of cables has no significance. You are good.
As a cable’s resistance = to a constant, multiplied by length (in meters) and divided by cross section in mm2.
Just by short the length by half, you can gain the same on cross section.
5 feet = ~ 1,5m
It’s already 16 times #0 awg instead of 32 times.
But if you could get it down to 25 cm (6 times shorter), you could have it right with 16/6 = 3 times # 0 awg (DF = 8,000).

I’m sorry to inform you that Devialet main office let me down and answered only after another email and two weeks.

Enjoy.

For all others out there, you see I’m series and confident about my theory. It really works. One more happy guy.

Michael,

Thanks for the information and suggestion.  I am first going to install another 0 AWG set of cables to see if this improves performance, before considering the acquisition of another amp.

I high pass the amp output from 35hz.  The Magnepan MGIIIa's are flat to 40hz and fall off from there.  Moreover, the bass Mylar panel is a large area with very little excursion.  Consequently, perhaps the control of this driver is not as challenging as a cone driver with a long excursion attempting to reproduce sub 35hz frequencies.  Is the optimum DF as critical with this system?

Frequencies below 45hz are fed via the pre-out to a Velodyne FSX-12 that is "Servo Controlled" to limit excursion.  The pre-out and powered outputs includes Devialet's SAM software designed to limit cone breakup.  The speaker cable in this unit is probably 14 inches long.  I can not find a DF spec for it's A-B amplifier. 

Does any of this additional information alter your opinion of the ideal cables for this system?

Notwithstanding the fact that DF is supposed to benefit frequencies below 85hz, my observation is that adding 2x0 AWG speaker cables greatly improved mid and high frequency resolution.  This may be the result of the attenuation of bass and mid-bass excess excursion (boom). 

Current bass control sounds tighter and realistic.  It's measured in-room response is flat.

Unless you advise otherwise, I am willing to invest another $67 to see if it can get any better.  Plus, I like tinkering.  I will let you know if the next experiment yields diminishing returns.

Cheers

J

I built a cable this last Sat. 3 m long and #0 AWG thick.
Yesterday I demonstrated it. It was a nice and happy demo:
It replaced a #9 AWG, same length, connected to a Power Amp. with DF of 1,600.
The smile on this guy's face is there till now (a day latter). The sound improved significantly. The bass went lower and tighter. Like a subwoofer was added, just by exchanging the cables!
The mid and highs became crystal clear and balanced. The details increased, like if we focus a picture with a lense. The sound was much better and different from the original cable.
He asked to keep the cable for a week, to play with, and listen to more CDs.
The Guy has a collection of 18,000 CD titles! Most classical.

Michael,

Sounds similar to my experience.

I await delivery of what will become the third 0 AWG cable driving my speakers.

I found a clever way to couple two cables and a tail for use with a banana plug, see: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QZRKXSL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The above linked battery cable coupler comes with a clear plastic snap-on cover for insulation on four sides. The remaining open sides can be protected with electrical tape. I use a 60 amp ring lug terminal connector, secured to the battery post bolt with the lug positioned in the slot on the coupler. This lug is crimped and solder to a 6 AWG 2" tail that connects to the banana plug.

My third 0 AWG cable will be connected to the amp via a tinned wire tail inserted in the screw clamp connection on the amp. The bananas connecting signal to two of the 0 AWG cables are connected to same screw clamp. The screw clamp has a female banana plug connection at the end of the clamp tightening knob. This arrangement allows me to use two short tails per tap to reduce resistance.

At the other end of the three cables (total of six per side) I attach a 4 AWG 2" tail with a 30 Amp ring lug for connection to a terminal board that connects to the crossover.

I will let you know if the third cable install improves the sound.

The fun continues.

Very truly yours,

J

Hi Mr.  keppertup

I spoke yesterday with the guy I did the domo for, and he said that the smile is still on his face...
He has two sets of Amplification.
A set of two mono blocks, made by an Israeli firm, and an H2O.
We tried it first with the moco blocks, as they were his favorites.
But there was a problem. There was no Spec on the web site or anywhere, about the Amp's DF!
We called the maker, to find out the missing data. He claimed they do not know, as it never been measured because it is insignificant and doesn't matter.
Unfortunately for him' it was after my cables were hooked. So the DF vs Cable's resistance were proven already. 
The conversation was ended with a look saying all and we switched to the H2O (DF=1,600). It stayed there till the end of the Demo.
It is so bizarre, that people (so called Audiophiles), tend to argue a subject, they know nothing about, never tried it and still do it. Why?

How to select a good speaker cable:
1) Compare by listening.
2) Compare by reading what others heard by listening.
3) Right. As if. There are no other ways. Either you listen, or they do. All else is BS.

Mr.  millercarbon

You have no idea how to select a speaker cable. Trust me on that. A speaker cable can be calculated per Amp's DF and cable length.
I do it, and it works. look above!
All you think is not based on knowledge. It's your wild guess as you have nothing better.

0. Even 00. Done.

Mr. glupson

You and the others here, who have all ignorant says about my idea, without having the knowledge and never tried it, is an insult.
It's like you would come to a ped lock party, empty handed, but keep criticizing the food and beverage that all others brought. What kind of a person does that?

I have no idea why you do it, what kind of a person you are and what is it for you to gain, by doing so?

I can tell you that "all" who tried it, was pleasantly surprised from the results.
The sound improved, the bass got clear, tight and strong, like a hidden subwoofer been added, and the mid and highs got crystal clear. It was like the speakers got a new life, and a heavy cover was removed from them. The sound improved by so much.
None of them wanted to go back to their thing (#14-12 awg) cable.  

DF 1140
7 ft length

Mr. phastm3

2x 0 AWG

b4icu
- DF 105 [it literally says DF:greater than 105 from 10Hz to 400Hz]
-6 foot cable
Thanks in advance
Shulem

Mr. estereo23

#8 AWG

For this cable you can use Nakamichi banana plugs: 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8x-Nakamichi-24k-Gold-Plated-Audio-BFA-Banana-Speaker-Plug-Screw-Cable-Wire-/271234103733?epid=1488360768&hash=item3f26cff9b5:g:m4AAAOxyaRZR2UT1
They can have #8 AWG directly.

7 foot cable
amp’s DF = 370

Thanks

#1 AWG

Professor,

I have installed the third 0 AWG cable between a Devialet 120 and Magnepan MGIIIa’s. I was expecting an incremental increase is performance. The performance increase is dramatic.

Now, I am tempted to install a fourth per channel per side.

I have no idea why it works, and I don’t care why.

Maggie owners take note. I bought mine in 1988. They have been paired with many amps and cables. They have never sounded this good.

Best regards,

J

So, You believe in the absolute that;
Cooker: the melting point of Copper is: 1,085 °C
In the process of making a cable, it is melted. Once it solidifies, the metal structure is set. No heating under that melting point would change that.
So is the other direction: Cryo treatment. No effect on conductivity.
When using supper conductivity, in extreme cold: (close to the 0 Kelvin = -297 °C) it is not a copper conductor, but composite material. None apply to Audio. They are used in supercomputers or cold fusion attempts.

And further you believe;
Directional: Sound is an AC signal. It's nature to flow 50% of the time in one direction and the other 50% of the time in the other. (Nyquist theory, that all AC signals can be broken down into sine waves, is the basic of digital Audio!).
When you claim on a cable it's directional, which 50% of the time it benefits, and which 50% of the time it doesn't?

Also;
It's fun to crash them, one at a time. There are so many. The latest is called: Geometry.
It will expend for Quantum physics, String theory, Singularity quiq to come and maybe lean over older fashioned religious blessing or cursing, to get ignorance to the a new hight.

Man-o-man your just precious!
 Please, do not ever change!
Can you message me whenever you are going to, "Crash" something in physics or math? Like geometry! I just have to see that.
Ok, buh bye now..
    (waves).

Mr.  jollygreenaudiophile2

You quote my say, no comments and than you have a say that is irrelevant. 
Nice trying. No big deal.  

Mr. keppertup

Thanks for sharing your impressions from your upgrade.
I’m happy that it works for you.

The increase is not linear all the way. it looks more like a Capacitor Charging Graph:
http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/Capacitor-charging.php
Keep in mind that my recommanded calculation, for DF=8000 was an enormous 32x 0 AWG. That would be your 95% point on the chart.
The 3 or 4 first #0 AWG cables are still at the bottom part of that chart.
Every cable adds significantly vs the level before.
32x 0 AWG is not a practical option...we can assume that already.

Just to be kindly reminded, it is better for you to get two mono blocks and place them very close to the speakers. Every time you get rid off 1/2 the length, you can get rid of 1/2 the cross section.
That could get down from 32 to 16, or 8 or 4 x0 awg...where you are just about to be next.

B4icu 

Same as before on the DF BUT cable is 25 foot,This is for a 7.1 system and wall speakers. I wonder if I also need the 8 AWG

DF 105 [it literally says DF:greater than 105 from 10Hz to 400Hz] -25 foot cable

Thanks in Advance

Mr. estereo

Even though the calc. apply, I would not bother to invest in thick cable in your surround speakers with "Long Cables".
As 25' is a significant length, you will need way thicker cables than #8 AWG for that distance. It may also cost you a lot. 
I recommended #8 AWG for DF=105 and 6'
For 25' ( 4x as long), you will need #0 AWG! 
I also tend to think that the 7.1 ch. is an HT receiver. 
This is a mediocre amplification, not that much worth the effort. 
 

Thanks for quick response. I found 100FT of 8 AWG for $48 US.  Used a gauge and its real 8 AWG.  I will use this for a 7.1 syste with a McIntosh 121 MX and a new amp I bought. When I finish this project I'm buying a a tube amp [Maybe a primaluna] Just for Cds and LP and will use the 8AWG on the stereo side BUT will buy 15 feet of AWG 0 and see if there is a difference in sound. It will take me a little while to accomplish this but I will let you know how the sound compares. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Tube Amps have low DF so cables won't change the sound a bit.
If the cables are meant to end up with a tube Amp. don't bother at all.

This first system  will be with the McIntosh 121MX and a amplifier to a 7 system.  Hopefully I will be able to do this this weekend Thanks again for the info.  I might look into building a AWG Zero 5 footer for the sub-woofer to to see if there is any change in sound. Someone PM and showed pictures of what he did which I'm going to replicate.  When I'm done I will report here on sound difference.

Mr. estereo

Thanks
McIntosh is keeping to build tube like Amps, mostly utilize an output transformer on the output stage. That is a 1/2 of the way, even if the drivers of that transformer is SS, the output is still a  transformer!
105 as DF is moderate (low) and it will not be much of a change.
However, I'm looking forward to see it works for you.

Insights...

A few years ago, a good friend of mine, got a new sound system:
B&W 802D speakers, PASS Labs 205.8 power and the 12 Pre.
I calculated and build him a set of #4 AWG speaker cables.
It sounded well and since he is happy with his sound.
Yesturday, I visited him with my newly built #0 AWG cable (same length).
We listened to some tracks with his #4 AWG and than connected the #0 AWG.
Before the power was turned on, I’ve told him that the sound will remain the same. My calc. were claiming that a #4 AWG is what he needs, and any thicker, will be a waist of $$$.
He turned the power on, and the same tracks sounded identical.
This is the first time I’m putting to test this part of my theory.
It worked.
It’s kind of funny, that I was happy that it didn’t sound different!
Well it has proven that my theory is on spot and working both directions.
So guys,
I’m happy to report that the theory is working in practice with grate accuracy.
I hope, one day all speaker cable manufacturers will be honest and genuine enough to do it my way and start providing you the right cables for your system, without the "other" claims they sale today.
It works.
It really works, and works well.

  Kind of interesting this, wonder if OP will ever realise the difference between stranded & solid conductors

No.

A solid conductor at 0 awg is irrelevant.
The one I use has over 4K strands and is relatively flex for a #0 awg cable.
Also there is no reason to use one over the other electrically.
They still do the same job over the Audio FR range.

You are on the right track but you still have a lot to learn b4icu

I know I'm on the right track.
Every time I (or someone else) tried, it worked!