Gilbert Yeung C312 Preamplifier Review


I have had the opportunity to have the C312 with SP36 capacitor pack in my system for a while now and it has absolutely been transformational, creating synergy with anything it has been paired with.

My written review was my first impressions after having spent 3 months with the pair and once it returned I decided to start working with Angela-Gilbert Yeung to give a deeper look at the creative genius behind these unique products.

Article: https://modestmidwestaudiophile.blogspot.com/2024/04/angela-gilbert-yeung-c312-preamplifier.html?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR1a1FpIMvqIB9iOVSClAxMm9yjJYxOdQZf3krhEfCz37i5ZoBSpdwh-9Vk_aem_AR9_1IZtECYHsBp2LIxS8OxTG365S24fcjCZkK4H7hfJe1NMaVSuRQO6giTfZ2ztcUumpFj6LnYHQWZzqjKBTYwP&m=1

Video: https://youtu.be/iyN2kswl6Qs 

https://quarkhifi.com/products/gilbert-yeung-c312-preamplifier

 

voltaicq

Looking inside his work always made me wonder how the heck any repair work could be done? Seems it would be difficult. I am sure the unit sounds fantastic and I know first hand how good his hybrid amps sounded years ago. Lot of silicone to remove to access parts and solder joints.

Is the silicone used here easy to remove off of wires and solder connections? Or is it as I think and an absolute mess to deal with post build? Always wanted to ask these questions.

Again, his builds sound great as I have owned several of his pieces years ago. Never tried to mod one or repair one however. Sometimes parts fail and work needs to be done before the 20 year life of the electrolytic capacitors. Stuff just happens.

 

 

There are a lot of techs who are intimidated by this form of assembly, and I am sure some of that is also due to how AG carefully conceals the finite details of the amplification stages throughout. Truthfully I find it easier and more enjoyable working on his work compared to modern components because they have a sensible flow to them where a schematic isn't necessary. Most of the gear I get in for repair (newer components as I am also a warranty tech for a number of brands), do not have schematics or service manuals, and when many new PCBs have multiple layers, trace work can take me hours. 

The silicone isn't a pain to work with at all. Once fully set, the silicone is a complete solid and does not become gummy with time. AG did experiment with a couple other mounting adhesives in the past that did not hold up as well, and I imagine is one of the main reasons for using silicone throughout today. It works very well and lasts. 

Funny that you mention the hybrid amps, as I have a BC202 here that I hope to finish repair on this week. Over 20 years old, still fully serviceable and upgradable. Silicone that I had to remove I simply cut off, and replaced once I was done in that area. The adhesive around the tube section was some of the adhesive I spoke of that didn't fare as well, this was removed and replaced with silicone as well. 

Thank you for responding. Makes sense where the silicone meets solid parts like caps. Where he encases hook-up wire and soldering tabs on connectors it may be more problematic. Still an interesting approach to unwanted vibrations and potential noise/smearing. 

In audiophile simple is best.

This looks like comples and has many additionals.

Blue, green, red and clear goop! LOL! Take a look inside a Boulder preamp to see quality workmanship! 

Well laid out PCBs are utilized even here in the C312. The open wires are much better than laced or bundled wires to reduce crosstalk or interference. Point to point is, and always will be better than quick connectors. 

Yes she does, please see quarkaudio.com for the current model line up and pricing. There are still new models being added, with just about anything possible for custom work, Funky or not.