Distortion from Audio Rack ??

Unfortunately, everything in your room will affect the sound your get.  People go to great lengths to have as little between the speakers as possible.  Stuff between the speakers can vibrate and will always act as sound boundaries and/or reflection points.

I've found that people in the hobby that go to the trouble of taking care of their room FIRST before equipment upgrades have the highest level of satisfaction.  I would get the best quality dedicated audio rack you can afford and go from there.

I wouldn't hesitate the replace the wall unit.  Also, by removing it you open up the possibility of hanging some proper wall treatments around your speakers.  If you think your system sounds good now....try that!  Have fun and good luck.

There are a couple approaches to racks. One is a sturdy rack with individual dampening solution for each components on it, or a fully dampened rack. I have typically taken the former route. You are in a good position to do that as well.

You can now isolate each component. For some of my components I use vibrapods with a Black Diamond shelf atop that... and springs (Nobsprings, Amazon). For my turntable I have a Silent Running Audio Ohio Class custom isolation platform. 

Depending on how much space and your patience, you can experiment with the hundreds of vibration control devices on the market. You will likely be able to isolate each component from the rack and improve the sound quality. I'd start experimenting with inexpensive devices. Get a feel how much sound quality is to be gained. 

Keeping the Cabinet if it is a appreciated furniture item is to be encouraged.

Improving the Cabinets Interface within the Room, as a support for audio devices is quite straight forward.

The Cabinet can be sat on a low profile Sub Plinth with an Isolator Footer between floor and Sub Plinth and Sub Plinth and underside of Cabinet. The Sub Plinth can have a Cherry Edging Bead to keep the match in keeping with the furniture.

A Sub Plinth and Sub Sub Plinth will have a improved impact on the managing amplitude of ambient energies within the local structures being transferred into the Cabinet.

The next consideration is crating a support structure for the audio equipment that has rigidity, energies produced within a room can impact on a support structure, with the outcome being movement. Movement is a new energy, and this energies amplitude will be able to transfer into audio devices. Reduction of this energy type can be achieved by anchoring the Cabinet to the Wall with fastening. A decoupling device as used on the base can also be used as a separator between the Cabinet and the Wall, again to    d rIf a   

The issue with components that are situated too close to one another is EMI. I always found my system to sound much better with the amp out of the rack even if it was just sitting on the floor at least a foot away from the nearest component. Keep the power conditioner at a good distance from everything else as well. 

I really appreciate the input.

I'm not going to go as far as refurnishing our family room to accommodate the audio system.  I do think my best option is to individually dampen each component on my rack.  I'm looking at the IsoAcoustics Orea line.  I've also been in touch with a local audio store that does custom installations. I may have them do a home consult and outfit the rear of my audio rack with some cable organizers to lessen whatever distortion may be emanating from my previous placement of cables. 

My Eversolo A10 also has a room correction feature.  Once I handle the other fine tuning, I'll purchase an appropriate microphone and utilize the room correction programming and then see what additional improvements I find. 

If my marriage holds together through this (she thinks I'm crazy) I may get to a place where I'm satisfied that I've attained most of what is achievable given the limits of my current audio and room configuration.     

They all think we are crazy. 

To the OP:  I am of the school of thought that the best equipment stand between the L/R main speakers is no equipment stand, as it interferes with soundstage, imaging, and early reflections symmetry, usually.   If the speakers are pulled 7-8' out into the room and the rack is pressed right against the front wall, then that helps reduce its sonic impact on sound quality.  Instead of a large wall unit or rack, have you considered placing components on the floor atop amp stands or wooden butcher blocks with anti-resonant footers beneath the stands/blocks?  It should improve things I'd hope.

My earlier Post has been corrupted

I was to show the following links and explain the Support Footers for heavy items where the 616 is usable is as a good as any designs out there and can be found if searching out for cheaper than shown in the Link/    

https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/en/auction/yahoo/input/t1192434588/

Hooters for equipment will not be bettered for the monies and these are available in abundant numbers.

https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/en/special/order/confirm/https%3A%2F%2Fjp.mercari.com%2Fitem%2Fm42546737851/13_1/

https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/en/special/order/confirm/https%3A%2F%2Fitem.fril.jp%2Fc41897f030728ea8c78250478ebfe868/19_1/

Equipment Footers can be used with methods proposed by Barry Diament, which are heavily copied since their being presented as a design.  

I had some speakers on some homemade stands for a few years.  They had a fairly large flat wood surface.  I switched them out for some stands that had minimal surface area.  I was very surprised at how big of a difference it made.  I speculate that the woofers caused the big flat area to resonate and blur transients.  I also remember decades ago making tons of damping doodads and being surprised how obvious the sound of the case of my amp vibrating was when I clapped.  It was way more substantial than the sound of any electronic distortion.

@russf1  If you are willing to spend the money on IsoAcoustics then I’d suggest you get Stack Audio AUVA Eq’s for about the same money. They are far better than the Orea, I’ve replaced all of them (Orea) with the AUVA EQ’s. The improvement was unexpected for such a simple and inexpensive tweak. In most cases you can use 3 for each component, I use mostly 1’s and 2’s They are based on the weight of the supported component.

" Hooters for equipment " 

21 Hours without sleep, Footers for equipment should be a better place to start.

I've been digesting advise from this discussion. Stack Audio AUVA Eq sounds like a winner.

In addition to the component vibration dampeners I've been re-thinking my audio rack.  I am limited with space (23" vertically), and that creates some challenges. 

One high quality brand is SolidSteel Hyperspike Series, but they are quite expensive.

https://upscaleaudio.com/products/solidsteel-hyperspike-hy-audio-stands?variant=39299506634936

I have found a similar version made in Taiwan - about half the price, though of course it could also be half the quality. 

https://en.pifferia.com/products/mystj-cms-series-hi-end-audio-rack. 

Has anyone had experience with this product?

In general you want placed on anything that provides a solid foundation and not subject to vibration.  More mass is usually good.  Need not be marketed specifically  for audiophile use.  You will pay a premium. 
 

Also must take floor into account when considering a “solid foundation”. Foundation level of a house is best.    Upper levels with suspended plywood floors more problematic, especially with vibrations transmitted from speakers via the floor.   Wall mount can be a good option done right.