Yes, this should work fine, but take time to dial in the sub level again by ear, as you had done previously using the other connecting cables.
The notional benefit is that a lower-level (should be less distorted and less lossy) signal is passed to the subs, although this may be canceled out if the sub’s amps are themselves crappy.
You still need to low-pass the sub (use its crossover) unless there is some way to do this in your amp. I doubt it as otherwise this would be described as "sub-out" connections, not pre-outs. If you ran full-range, then the sub will be amplifying a full-range signal, causing overlap and distortion beyond the driver's useable range. Probably start around 100hz and keep going down.
The notional benefit is that a lower-level (should be less distorted and less lossy) signal is passed to the subs, although this may be canceled out if the sub’s amps are themselves crappy.
You still need to low-pass the sub (use its crossover) unless there is some way to do this in your amp. I doubt it as otherwise this would be described as "sub-out" connections, not pre-outs. If you ran full-range, then the sub will be amplifying a full-range signal, causing overlap and distortion beyond the driver's useable range. Probably start around 100hz and keep going down.