Is there any interest in a discussion about home-made formulae that can significantly enhance audio quality? After reading some recent threads here, it appears that one company which had been involved in this aspect of audio is no longer in business, and has no immediate plans to reopen. I would not be making this offer if that company was still operating. My recent experiments in this area are extensive, and most of it is unique. The experiments are not influenced by the products of any other company. I would like to share the results, if it's not too controversial, and if such a discussion would not cause difficulties for anyone actively involved in the business. I certainly don't want to hurt anyone by revealing and discussing what I know. On the contrary, I would like to help open minded readers get started on some very cost effective, radical home-made solutions. I can describe in detail the steps necessary to create some home-made formulae which have proved to be very successful in my own system. I'll await reaction before I continue.
Those who want to partake their experience and experiments about low cost and non commercial solutions are not a so big crowd and deserve interest, respect, and fair questioning for sure...
In my experience if something is low cost and almost free, the crowd of audiophiles will not be interested so much tough... :)
Most people dont believe in low cost solutions and sometimes dont believe their own ears....:) My own thread does not provoke many reactions... My "Golden" plates,( Shungite+ copper tape+herkimer diamond+tourmaline) transform, with all my other homemade low cost tweaks, my audio system to a top system without any comparison between before and after....No one report really about their own experiment with that on my thread after almost a year.... I hope you will go on with your experiments, and report here,i am very interested by them...You deserve the utmost interest and careful respect...My best to you...
...with all due respect and regards to 'whostole...' and all who DIY for whatever purpose or reason....and as one who 'tinkers' with things audio in nature and design....
Ultimately, I have no problems with what one chooses to expose themselves to...in fact , Have @ It. If it 'boats your float', hold your breath and dive....
I'm just 'suggesting' in my weird way to take precautions with that one doesn't typically 'handle'....esp. with 'nano' anything, nor mica, or ?
A stray swipe with a finger...an unexpected spill....? I would expect 'whostole' has taken care when feeding his curiosity with the unusual.
DIY, IMHO, has been at the root of all research; it just gets an 'upscale' name when performed by the 'pros'.
If I'm wrong....slap back. I can take the punch, bunch....;)
Ultimately, I have no problems with what one chooses to expose themselves to...in fact , Have @ It. If it ’boats your float’, hold your breath and dive....
I’m just ’suggesting’ in my weird way to take precautions with that one doesn’t typically ’handle’....esp. with ’nano’ anything, nor mica, or ?
My precautions are as follows - With nanoparticles or any potentially hazardous chemical in powder form, wear appropriate protective gear. Work outside. Mix the particles into a PVA glue slurry as quickly as possible. Once the particles are thoroughly mixed with glue and water, there is little or no risk of inhalation. Mica is commonly used in soap and cosmetics. You can literally eat titanium dioxide (it’s the white stuff in marshmallows) although it will be banned soon as a food additive. Tourmaline powder has health benefits due to its ability to release negative ions.
whostole, that's what I had hoped. Pardon my concerns, but I've seen enough good intent go awry....
Electronics hold their inherent hazards; the majority of which we don't approach (AC circuits being a different case). Chemistry is not the typical arena for most of the people here, so some caution can serve one well.
I've been around enough adhesives, solvents, paints, and the like to take a deep breath Before I open the container...after I read the label. ;)
Those who can, will. Those that don't, probably are better off. *shrug*
I think that this discussion is more than interesting....And useful....It is a change from tastes conditioning discussions and unconscious or conscious marketing electronic components habits by all of us, and from usual audiophile not so always useful other discussions...
I am interested by basic fundamental ways to upgrade any audio system to his peak potentials by homemade solutions at low costs...I know that this is not only possible by my own experience and experiments but this is the only way to Hi-Fi for most of us...
Almost all audiophile communities lives in the fog and illusive faith that all major upgrades are linked to the purchase of a costly new electronic components; a trip around all forums thread is proof of that affirmation...
My own experiments reveal to me that it is false and an illusion...They are 3 levels of quality for electronic components : low-mid-high...( sometimes many thousand dollars distinguish and separate some element from some others for example in the mid rung)
On each rung of this scale any upgrade on the same rung is an illusion in the sense of being a small changes rarely a great one compared to possible changes in the three embeddings...
The greatest upgrades in audio are controls of the 3 embeddings: mechanical, acoustical, and electrical grid...
The methods to controls these 3 embeddings can transform almost any mid system on the scale in a high one system, and if not, very near the high ones....( and transform a low one to a mid level one)
Then your experiments are great contribution about that goal to upgrade by controls of these embeddings....Not listening to that will be great lost for all....And coming back to usual small talks or advertisement for the products we all cherished inspired by our tastes and limited experiences( How can we decide what will be the absolute best electronic components? )
But most people are in the faith conditioned by the industry : only way to elevate a system is to change your electronic components, these same components that are most of the times already good, but unbeknownst to the owner, not at their peak potential S.Q. level because of defects in the controls of the 3 embeddings or in one or 2 of them...The most powerful and important being the acoustical, the electrical, on par with one other, and in third the mechanical aspect...
I think that it is easy, low cost, and possible to takes our audio journey in our own hand if we know the right direction to takes...Not so many threads pointed to the right direction, freeing ourselves of the buying illusion and frenetic abdication of our own creative thinking process....
I want you to go on with your discoveries and opinions, ignoring the negative ordinary voices...
I must add after one year here, that your remark about the way you use graphene and mica is one of the very few rare observations that was useful for me here on all audiogon...No salesman speech but experiments by someone who has taken his audio journey in his own hand and dont only promote his"taste" about miraculous electronic component... Thanks very much...I will probably be able to improve my "golden" plate with that.... My best...
I wish for more interesting posts around the ideas of this thread....
When you wish upon a star.... bonus Q: know what that means?
Transformers work because an alternating current in one wire induces a current in another wire- an effect that is greatly amplified in the presence of iron.
Why is that? Anybody? Beuller? We got guys here should know. For sure at the very least anyone mocking these tweaks ought to know. Otherwise, mocking what you know not, wow, what’s the word for behaving like that? Childish? Superstitious? Where’s WFB when you need him?
Anyway, turns out there’s lots better stuff than iron. Which we know by trying. Greatly increases transformer performance. Even though its not in the circuit. Just like iron.
How’s that for interesting? My even more interesting question is: If it works with the alternating current in the transformer then what reason is there to think it won’t work with the alternating current in a speaker cable?
If it works with the alternating current in the transformer then what reason is there to think it won’t work with the alternating current in a speaker cable?
Technically, and perhaps ironically, the primary subject of the OP - static electric charge - is not (rpt not) contained in any of the three embeddings that mahgister oft reminds us. Oh, my! 😛
Technically, and perhaps ironically, the primary subject of the OP - static electric charge - is not (rpt not) contained in any of the three embeddings that mahgister oft reminds us. Oh, my! 😛
Being obsessed by three elementary linked phenomena like these embeddings, does not exhaust this complex subject...And I am very interested by improvement in my cable, I already use my golden plate with success with that, but something is lacking, I guess that it is probably graphene...I guess something is lacking because in the cable the effect is less powerful that behind the speakers, on the breaker panel, or on the Schumann generator.... What is lacking is in my mind already for some months and it is graphene.... It is the reason why I am interested by this thread...
Thanks Geoffkait for tracking my primary interest or obsessions....:)
By the way I am also interested by information field and this is not linked to the 3 embeddings …:)
Here is a completely non-toxic, cheap and very effective way to improve the performance of cables :
Formula: 2 parts PVA (woodworking) glue 2 parts titanium dioxide (extremely high refractive index) 1 part 3-40 micron white tourmaline powder (high negative ion generation) 1 part 20-100 micron natural mica powder (anti-static qualities) water as desired for paint consistency
mix together the ingredients, and paint onto the surface of an old speaker or interconnect cable to test. Or carefully paint the mixture onto the exterior surface of any chassis or component. You can do the interior surface if you have basic electronic knowledge and common sense.
This formula is very effective, but omits some of the more expensive, or difficult to obtain, or potentially toxic (to inhale) ingredients. I would say it is 20% of the potency of my most powerful formula.
PVA glue - hardware store titanium dioxide - bakery supply store tourmaline powder - Ion Trading Japan natural mica - easily obtained on eBay
Does the applied 'thickness' of the layers have any relation to the desired effect?
"
The best formula consists of 2 parts. The first part contains the stronger chemicals. It is painted on first. The second part is the one I already put up on the forum, and it is painted over the top of Part 1 when it is dry."
I assume that explains the application 'steps', and the rationale for it....
PVA adhesive can be thinned, which ought to make application on a cable somewhat easier. Perhaps a 'dip tray' could improve the coatings, rendering them more uniform.
asvjerry - the best way to apply the ingredients is in very thin layers. I have made sandpaper samples with up to a dozen layers, and they work better and better as you add layers. But my experiments show that certain ingredients work best when applied in a layer adjacent to certain others. For application to cables and chassis etc., more than 2 layers is not really practical, so I usually apply the semiconductors, conductors and superconductors (germanium, polyaniline, graphene) first. Safe, non-conducting materials are added last.
I use a brush. Thinning with water is good. Dipping has not worked well for me.
I don’t really think the formula would work for speaker cones, but I haven’t tried it. I see no reason that it should work, apart from providing a measure of EMR protection for the entire speaker circuitry. There is also a spectacularly successful way to apply the material to any surface. It is called nanotape, and it really is incredible.
I am curious about trying to improve cables but my most extraordinary improvement were gained with acoustical controls with my modified Schumann generators with stones and the electrical grid controls with the stones....The effect were not small....Cables are important but cannot be compared to the modification of the house electrical grid or the room acoustical field....Modification of the speakers were also a great improvement....I will try something with my "golden" plate and the graphene powder and mica....
I already have the nanotape for using with the graphene powder and will use it on some connector...
My homemade formula, which really does help blend everything into a coherent sound, consists of single malt scotch and very furry ganja buds. Sip one and smell the other.
(The obvious pun was "Will I need to get the nanocorder for it?", but that's just being rude..."nanomuzic"...*G* I'll stop....")
Since I'm using an all metal cone, and there's a need to damp inter-modulation distortion from reflected waveforms....thought I might deal with another potential issue at the same time.... Thought water as a means of thinning would be fine...thanks for verifying.
@danvignau ...Now, don't get them mixed up...;)...and why are you just 'smelling' the 'other'....?!
*sigh* It's a good thing I'm committed to performing a PubicI mean Public Service by keeping 'it' out of the hands of those who are wastedImean Wasting 'Its' medicinal qualities.....😆
When mixing the Part 1 formula, here are a few notes:
It would be easier to use barium titanate instead of lead zirconate titanate (PZT). You can get barium titanate on ebay in small quantities, but it’s much more difficult to source PZT which contains lead. Barium titanate is not as powerful as PZT but if you use a little more in the mix, it’s still quite good.
Shungite powder is almost pure carbon. You can source it from Russia via eBay, The seller is trustworthy, and I have dealt with them 3 times with no difficlties. But if you don’t want to order from Russia, you can use Ketjen carbon black with similar results. You can get that locally.
If you’re worried about playing around with graphene nanoparticles, you can also get graphene as a suspension (liquid). There’s no possibility of inhaling it. It works the same when mixed with PVA glue.
It’s also a good idea to mix some mica into the Part 1 mix. Synthetic mica and natural mica both work very well, and I use a bit of each sometimes.
You can isolate various ingredients into layers, which can increase the power of the final product. For example, if you mix PVA, graphene and (piezoelctric material of your choice), it works extremely well as a coating directly on a crystal layer (such as silicon carbide).
Finally, you can add various fine powdered crystal sands to the Part 1 or Part 2 mix. I use silicon carbide and aluminum oxide because they are very effective and very cheap ways to buy powdered crystal material, but I have also used many other varieties of powdered crystals, and each has a different effect as Mahgister has pointed out elsewhere. The best I have found is a mixture of 12 crystal powders which I call Tutti Frutti.
After you have painted the layers onto sandpaper and dried the sheets in the sun, cut them into 30mm strips. Stick nanotape onto the reverse side of the strips (which can also contain layers). Don’t remove the protective film from the nanotape until you’re ready to apply the material to cables, chassis etc. The nanotape can be quite difficult to remove once stuck, so don’t use it on anything that could be damaged such as painted logos etc.
Ahhh....*S* Now, that's some technical details that were missing from all the previous...;) The means of 'making the souffle' can be as important as the ingredients required...and thanks for all that. It outlines fairly concisely the 'how to'; and the addition of potentially layering variations of mixtures is intriguing.... Before this forum fades into digital obscurity, I'll back up and 'snip' some of your posts regarding this subject, for references' sake. *S* You obviously have your notes....in this way, I can have mine. ;) If anyone would like a copy, they're free to ask....with your permission, of course. Don't want to let Merlin's Magic fall into abuse...*G*
Cool, Jerry. I’m happy to give permission to anyone who wants to try making the formula. For any reason, commercial or hobbyist. I see no reason why this basic but arcane knowledge should be kept secret. Who knows, someone out there may improve on it, and make something even better. The formula as it stands is more powerful (but different) than anything commercially available that I have tried so far. I have not tried everything of course.
Here’s a couple of photos, showing a batch of the Tutti Frutti formula. The small pieces are cut from large sheets, and have the nanotape already attached to the "Part 1" formula side. The darker coloured ones are a from a batch with more graphene and germanium, and sound even better than the light ones (maybe 10 percent better). The large black sheet is brand new made today and contains very thick layers of active ingredients, golden mica and a lot of Tutti Frutti crystal mix as you can see by the lumpy surface. I have not tested it yet.
If you don't want the lumpy surface, don't add extra crystal, just use the 1000 mesh silicon carbide for the crystal component. The small pieces can give a superpowerful effect, almost as much effect as an entire mat, when they are stuck in the right places using nanotape. The more you use, the better it sounds. I should know. I’ve used 2 boxes full on my system.
The main reason I developed my formula was to improve the sound quality of the vinyl/digital transfers I make for the benefit of collectors worldwide. If you like 60s r&r, you may even own CDs I have remastered.
This stuff is the real deal guys. Mark was nice enough to send me some samples. I concentrated mostly on the incoming AC & it has cleaned it up considerably. Greater clarity without any negatives. This stuff works!
I agree. Tutti Frutti provides a great enhancement in sound quality, on the level of E+ mat's. Apply on Gate, circuit breakers, components, cables and power cords... anywhere power can be affected.
Thank you, Mark for generously sharing a great accomplishment.
Thanks Spencer and Tim. I'm very happy to know that TF treatment has worked for you. Interesting to note that it works on the Gate, I had not thought of that. I don't have the Gate, but I know how it works, and it makes sense that it would amplify the effect of the TF (not the other way around). TF also works when a small square is place on an Alpha card (logo side). Alpha cards can also be greatly improved by sticking them in place with nanotape. You can make your own device that works like a Gate. You could make one 10 times more powerful than a Gate. There is also a home-made method that can be used to multiply the sonic effect of mats (home made or Emat) by at least 5 times.
OK. The late genius Tim Mrock told me about this method. He pobably told others, I have no idea. But it works. However he did not invent it, the idea came from another source.
It involves cutting a thin, 2-wire power cord (like a thin lamp cord). It should be about 6-8 feet long depending on your system. Leave the plug on the end. Make sure to seal the cut end safely so that the wires can’t short and are not exposed. Get a wooden dowel rod, about one half inch diameter and 16 inches long. Starting at the cut end of the lamp cord, coil the cord around the dowel tightly, leaving 5 inches of dowel as a handle. The more close tight winds, the better. Tape the coil with electrical tape so that it can’t unwind from the dowel. The result should look like a wand with a wound coil and a wooden handle, with a 4 foot trailing power cable and AC plug. Stick the coil under your PPT Mat, plug it into the AC, and in Tim’s own words "KABOOOM!!!"
The wand needs to be on all the time for best effect, but it does have lasting effect for a time after it’s turned off. . You can create a wand for every mat you own. Too many wands does create a horrible tangle of power cords.
Disclaimer : Get a qualified electrician to make the wand(s). Don’t make them yourself like I did.
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