OK. The late genius Tim Mrock told me about this method. He pobably told others, I have no idea. But it works. However he did not invent it, the idea came from another source. It involves cutting a thin, 2-wire power cord (like a thin lamp cord). It should be about 6-8 feet long depending on your system. Leave the plug on the end. Make sure to seal the cut end safely so that the wires can’t short and are not exposed. Get a wooden dowel rod, about one half inch diameter and 16 inches long. Starting at the cut end of the lamp cord, coil the cord around the dowel tightly, leaving 5 inches of dowel as a handle. The more close tight winds, the better. Tape the coil with electrical tape so that it can’t unwind from the dowel. The result should look like a wand with a wound coil and a wooden handle, with a 4 foot trailing power cable and AC plug. Stick the coil under your PPT Mat, plug it into the AC, and in Tim’s own words "KABOOOM!!!" The wand needs to be on all the time for best effect, but it does have lasting effect for a time after it’s turned off. . You can create a wand for every mat you own. Too many wands does create a horrible tangle of power cords. Disclaimer : Get a qualified electrician to make the wand(s). Don’t make them yourself like I did. |
regarding the recipe:
On second thoughts, 25g of graphene is a lot. You can probably use half that amount. |
Thanks Spencer and Tim. I'm very happy to know that TF treatment has worked for you. Interesting to note that it works on the Gate, I had not thought of that. I don't have the Gate, but I know how it works, and it makes sense that it would amplify the effect of the TF (not the other way around). TF also works when a small square is place on an Alpha card (logo side). Alpha cards can also be greatly improved by sticking them in place with nanotape. You can make your own device that works like a Gate. You could make one 10 times more powerful than a Gate. There is also a home-made method that can be used to multiply the sonic effect of mats (home made or Emat) by at least 5 times. |
Very "appropriate"...haha. |
If you can’t get an electrician or electrical engineer to make a wand for you, then use a powerful rechargeable battery as a power source. |
Mahgister, I'm sorry I can't really explain anything about Schumann generators, or shungite plates. You know so much more than I do on those subjects.
In general, it can be assumed that the beneficial sonic effects of crystal technology can be amplified and distributed by the proximity of a strong electromagnetic field. |
It's all ok as long as you don't light the blue touchpaper. |
^^^How does one increase the effects of the gate?
I don’t own a Gate, and I have never seen inside one, and I have never been told anything about how it works by anyone. However I do know how it works. It’s basically a brick of material similar to mats or Alpha cards, and a coil of wire. So adding more material similar to mats to the surface of the gate will increase its power, because those materials will also be affected by the EM field produced by the coil inside the Gate.
I want to stress that Tim was very smart, and may have incorporated many refinements into the design of the Gate that go beyond my minimalist description.
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^^^ So good to hear Tim. I'm very pleased it works for you.
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I generally use white tourmaline powder (from ion trading, Japan) because I have compared it to black and it's more powerful. I use black when I run out of white, it's almost as good. 3 micron white tourmaline is the best I've tried, but 40 micron is also quite good.
The mix you describe will be very powerful. The only reservation I have is directly mixing the barium titanate and graphene nanoparticles. When you use a generous helping of barium titanate and graphene (and who wouldn't want to?), you may get an oxidizing reaction between those two ingredients, causing bubbling. I'm a mad scientist, not a qualified chemist, but my guess is the graphene may be converted to graphene oxide, which is ok but let's just say I don't like chemical reactions taking place when I make my formulae.
Your mix could also use some additional crystal component, such as fine silicon carbide. You don't need much, but it would help sharpen things up. Works great in combo with the barium titanate.
Maybe you could consider applying layers instead of mixing everything together. I have found that shungite works best when it's kept on its own layer. But if that's not practical, a total mix will still be great.
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Hi Aron
Thank you for your interest. I can't sell the product, as I am not set up for it. It's strictly a do-it-yourself situation at the moment. I'm hopeful that someone with business experience, insurance, legal cover, etc. etc. will pick up on the recipe and make it available to the general public. I have no plans to do it myself.
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Thanks sgordon1 for your interest.
- By solution, I meant answer, as in the resolution of the problems of underlying noise, various electronic interferences and static. Some of the formulations are solutions (liquids).
- The creations do involve the combination of substances, and their application to sensitive parts of the audio equipment and surrounds.
- The creations (I won't call them products because they are not for sale) enhance sound quality in a similar way (but with different strengths and emphasis) to other solutions such as bricks, demagnetizers, mats, conditioners, cards, pastes, etc., etc.
- One effect of one formulation is to decrease static on any surface to which it is applied. Other effects are more mysterious, and I won't attempt to explain them because I don't understand the precise causes. My discoveries are made via practical experiments, not scientific theories.
- After application or treatment, listeners would hear things their equipment had never before revealed, in most recordings.
One of the benefits of some of my solutions compared to commercial products, is they are comparatively very cheap to make, and sometimes more effective.
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GK, I’m not teasing. I just want to give an opportunity for people to nix the idea before I dive in. If there is a good reason.
noromance - I have zero interest in charging anything, or making a product. I would be happy for people to make their own batch using my formulae. And very happy if it works wonders for them. And very, very happy if another reader tells me something useful I didn’t know already. |
The Chinese military uses graphene/mica mix for anti static paint. Graphene/mica creates an incredibly powerful anti-static effect when the graphene is intercalated between the mica particle layers. It needs to be thoroughly mixed for maximum effect, which is why I use nanoparticles which are able to penetrate the mica layers.
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OK- Here is an amazing anti static paint for cables and equipment chassis. Mix PVA glue, white tourmaline powder, titanium dioxide, graphene nanoparticles, synthetic mica, natural mica and barium titanate.
To create a mat from the anti-static paint, apply the mixture to the rough side of aluminum oxide sandpaper. Paint the reverse side with carbon black/PVA (or shungite powder/PVA) and dry in the sun. You now have a powerful mat. Stack several together, and you now have a very very powerful audio mat.
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^^^No thanks. This is a recipe for trouble. I am a retired process chemist with 35 years experience and I wouldn't do what you are doing.
You may be correct. On second thoughts I do not advise anyone else to undertake the experiments I have done myself. But at least you now know something about the weird world of audio chemistry. Such as the incredible anti-static effect of graphene mixed with mica.
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Wouldn’t it be a lot easier to use a good anti static spray or reduce static electric charges in the room with a humidifier?
It would be easier, but it doesn't work well and it doesn't last long. |
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Static is a much bigger problem than is generally realised. On cables, a massive problem. Static spray doesn't cut it. |
Quick question. How do you know the effects are anti-static related and not something else?
I came to that conclusion after I painted my turntable mat with the antistatic mica/graphene paint. The effect was similar to, but much greater than the Furutech anti static SK-Filter which I also use. The effect of the SK Filter can also be greatly magnified by taping home-made anti-static painted tape to the arm, and to the base.
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It's funny how people will joke about a willingness to inhale proven carcinogens for kicks, and at the same time exhibit extreme caution and even paranoia when it comes to minimal contact with a substance which has no proven deleterious health effects, despite comprehensive lab testing. Take appropriate care when handling graphene by all means. But at this stage people are not dropping dead from graphene poisoning.
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>>>I find it rather difficult to ascribe cause to effect. Don’t you? It may be a stretch to presume, but it's all I've got really. |
The OP reminds me (a lot) of Dr. Audio, for those who recall that episode in A’Gon’s history. I hope the episode didn’t end badly. |
Graphene seems to be able to operate as a superconductor even when it is clumped and layers overlap. Seemingly it doesn’t have to be one molecule thick to have the desired effect. I have 3 types of graphene on hand for my experiments. The very expensive 1 molecule "single layer" graphene works only slightly better than the other 2. The other two are Arc Discharge versions, and nanoplatelets, and they are very cheap by comparison. I can hardly tell the difference in the strength of the effects between the 3 varieties. If anything, the nanoplatelets are the best overall, because they are much easier to handle. The single layer graphene is so light, it practically floats out of the bottle when you take the lid off. Way too hard to deal with!
You can definitely see it and weigh it. I do not recommend trying to smell it. |
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Ultimately, I have no problems with what one chooses to expose themselves to...in fact , Have @ It. If it ’boats your float’, hold your breath and dive....
I’m just ’suggesting’ in my weird way to take precautions with that one doesn’t typically ’handle’....esp. with ’nano’ anything, nor mica, or ? My precautions are as follows - With nanoparticles or any potentially hazardous chemical in powder form, wear appropriate protective gear. Work outside. Mix the particles into a PVA glue slurry as quickly as possible. Once the particles are thoroughly mixed with glue and water, there is little or no risk of inhalation. Mica is commonly used in soap and cosmetics. You can literally eat titanium dioxide (it’s the white stuff in marshmallows) although it will be banned soon as a food additive. Tourmaline powder has health benefits due to its ability to release negative ions. |
Maybe we could reset this discussion. Otherwise, it will get nowhere and benefit no-one.
Forget the do-it-yourself aspect. Emphatically, I now advise,"do not try this at home". OK?
But would a discussion of the methods involved be of any interest to anyone? If not, I honestly don't care.
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>>eyeroll<<
Yeah. Fascinating. And Paul McCartney died in 1966. |
Here is a completely non-toxic, cheap and very effective way to improve the performance of cables :
Formula:
2 parts PVA (woodworking) glue
2 parts titanium dioxide (extremely high refractive index)
1 part 3-40 micron white tourmaline powder (high negative ion generation)
1 part 20-100 micron natural mica powder (anti-static qualities)
water as desired for paint consistency
mix together the ingredients, and paint onto the surface of an old speaker or interconnect cable to test. Or carefully paint the mixture onto the exterior surface of any chassis or component. You can do the interior surface if you have basic electronic knowledge and common sense.
This formula is very effective, but omits some of the more expensive, or difficult to obtain, or potentially toxic (to inhale) ingredients. I would say it is 20% of the potency of my most powerful formula.
PVA glue - hardware store
titanium dioxide - bakery supply store
tourmaline powder - Ion Trading Japan
natural mica - easily obtained on eBay |
asvjerry - the best way to apply the ingredients is in very thin layers. I have made sandpaper samples with up to a dozen layers, and they work better and better as you add layers. But my experiments show that certain ingredients work best when applied in a layer adjacent to certain others. For application to cables and chassis etc., more than 2 layers is not really practical, so I usually apply the semiconductors, conductors and superconductors (germanium, polyaniline, graphene) first. Safe, non-conducting materials are added last.
I use a brush. Thinning with water is good.
Dipping has not worked well for me.
I don’t really think the formula would work for speaker cones, but I haven’t tried it. I see no reason that it should work, apart from providing a measure of EMR protection for the entire speaker circuitry. There is also a spectacularly successful way to apply the material to any surface. It is called nanotape, and it really is incredible.
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When mixing the Part 1 formula, here are a few notes:
It would be easier to use barium titanate instead of lead zirconate titanate (PZT). You can get barium titanate on ebay in small quantities, but it’s much more difficult to source PZT which contains lead. Barium titanate is not as powerful as PZT but if you use a little more in the mix, it’s still quite good.
Shungite powder is almost pure carbon. You can source it from Russia via eBay, The seller is trustworthy, and I have dealt with them 3 times with no difficlties. But if you don’t want to order from Russia, you can use Ketjen carbon black with similar results. You can get that locally.
If you’re worried about playing around with graphene nanoparticles, you can also get graphene as a suspension (liquid). There’s no possibility of inhaling it. It works the same when mixed with PVA glue.
It’s also a good idea to mix some mica into the Part 1 mix. Synthetic mica and natural mica both work very well, and I use a bit of each sometimes.
You can isolate various ingredients into layers, which can increase the power of the final product. For example, if you mix PVA, graphene and (piezoelctric material of your choice), it works extremely well as a coating directly on a crystal layer (such as silicon carbide).
Finally, you can add various fine powdered crystal sands to the Part 1 or Part 2 mix. I use silicon carbide and aluminum oxide because they are very effective and very cheap ways to buy powdered crystal material, but I have also used many other varieties of powdered crystals, and each has a different effect as Mahgister has pointed out elsewhere. The best I have found is a mixture of 12 crystal powders which I call Tutti Frutti.
After you have painted the layers onto sandpaper and dried the sheets in the sun, cut them into 30mm strips. Stick nanotape onto the reverse side of the strips (which can also contain layers). Don’t remove the protective film from the nanotape until you’re ready to apply the material to cables, chassis etc. The nanotape can be quite difficult to remove once stuck, so don’t use it on anything that could be damaged such as painted logos etc.
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Cool, Jerry. I’m happy to give permission to anyone who wants to try making the formula. For any reason, commercial or hobbyist. I see no reason why this basic but arcane knowledge should be kept secret. Who knows, someone out there may improve on it, and make something even better. The formula as it stands is more powerful (but different) than anything commercially available that I have tried so far. I have not tried everything of course. Here’s a couple of photos, showing a batch of the Tutti Frutti formula. The small pieces are cut from large sheets, and have the nanotape already attached to the "Part 1" formula side. The darker coloured ones are a from a batch with more graphene and germanium, and sound even better than the light ones (maybe 10 percent better). The large black sheet is brand new made today and contains very thick layers of active ingredients, golden mica and a lot of Tutti Frutti crystal mix as you can see by the lumpy surface. I have not tested it yet. http://www.g45central.com/posts/BoxOfTutti1.jpghttp://www.g45central.com/posts/BoxOfTutti2.jpgIf you don't want the lumpy surface, don't add extra crystal, just use the 1000 mesh silicon carbide for the crystal component. The small pieces can give a superpowerful effect, almost as much effect as an entire mat, when they are stuck in the right places using nanotape. The more you use, the better it sounds. I should know. I’ve used 2 boxes full on my system. |
The main reason I developed my formula was to improve the sound quality of the vinyl/digital transfers I make for the benefit of collectors worldwide. If you like 60s r&r, you may even own CDs I have remastered.
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