To the point raised about EMI generated by large inductors, has anyone tried Ti shielding?
Capacitor log Mundorf Silver in Oil
I wished I could find a log with information on caps. I have found many saying tremendous improvement etc. but not a detailed account of what the changes have been. I have had the same speakers for many years so am very familiar with them. (25+ years) The speakers are a set of Klipsch Lascala's. They have Alnico magnets in the mids and ceramic woofers and tweeters. The front end is Linn LP12 and Linn pre amp and amp. The speaker wire is 12 gauge and new wire.
I LOVE these speakers around 1 year ago they started to sound like garbage. As many have said they are VERY sensitive to the components before them. They are also showing what I think is the effect of worn out caps.
There are many out here on these boards I know of that are using the Klipsch (heritage) with cheaper Japanese electronics because the speakers are cheap! (for what they can do) One thing I would recommend is give these speakers the best quality musical sources you can afford. There is a LOT to get out of these speakers. My other speakers are Linn speakers at around 4k new with Linn tri-wire (I think about 1k for that) and the Klipsch DESTROY them in my mind. If you like "live feel" there is nothing like them. In fact it shocks me how little speakers have improved in 30 years (or 60 years in the Khorns instance)
In fact I question Linn's theory (that they have proved many times) that the source is the most important in the Hi-Fi chain. Linn's theory is top notch source with lessor rest of gear including speakers trumps expensive speakers with lessor source. I think is right if all things are equal but Klipsch heritage are NOT equal! They make a sound and feel that most either LOVE or hate. (I am in the LOVE camp and other speakers are boring to me)
So here goes and I hope this helps guys looking at caps in the future. Keep in mind Klipsch (heritage Khorns Belle's and Lascala's especially) are likely to show the effects of crossover changes more then most.
1 The caps are 30 years old and
2 the speakers being horn driven make changes 10x times more apparent.
Someone once told me find speakers and components you like THEN start to tweak if needed. Don't tweak something you not in love with. Makes sense to me.
So sound
Record is Let it Be (Beatles)
The voices are hard almost sounds like a worn out stylus.
Treble is very hard. I Me Mine has hard sounding guitars. Symbals sound awful. Everything has a digital vs. analog comparison x50! Paul's voice not as bad as John's and George's. Voices will crack.
different lp
Trumpets sound awful. Tambourine terrible. Bass is not great seems shy (compared to normal) but the bad caps draw soooooo much attention to the broken up mid range and hard highs that are not bright if anything it seems the highs are not working up to snuff. I have went many times to speaker to make sure tweeters are even working.
All in all they sound like crap except these Klipsch have such fantastic dynamics that even when not right they are exciting!
Makes me wonder about the people who do not like them if they are hearing worn out caps and cheap electronics? Then I can see why they do not like them! If I did not know better from 25+ years of ownership that would make sense.
For the new crossover I have chosen Mundorf Silver in Oil from what I have read and can afford. I want a warm not overly detailed sound as Klipsch already has lots of detail and does not need to be "livened up" they need lush smooth sounding caps. Hope I have made the right choice?
When the crossover is in I will do a initial impression on same lp's. Right now it goes from really bad (on what may be worn vinyl) to not as bad but NOT great on great vinyl. (I know the quality of the vinyl because tested on other speakers Linn)
The new caps are Mundorf Silver in Oil and new copper foil inductors are coming. I will at the same time be rewiring the speakers to 12 guage from the lamp cord that PWK put in. PWK was a master at getting very good sound often with crap by today's standards components.
The choice of speakers would be a toss up now depending on what I am listening to. Klipsch vastly more dynamic but if the breaking up of the sound becomes to much to effect enjoyment the Linn would be a better choice on that Lp. If I could I would switch a button back and forth between speakers depending on song and how bad the break-up sound was bothering me.
I LOVE these speakers around 1 year ago they started to sound like garbage. As many have said they are VERY sensitive to the components before them. They are also showing what I think is the effect of worn out caps.
There are many out here on these boards I know of that are using the Klipsch (heritage) with cheaper Japanese electronics because the speakers are cheap! (for what they can do) One thing I would recommend is give these speakers the best quality musical sources you can afford. There is a LOT to get out of these speakers. My other speakers are Linn speakers at around 4k new with Linn tri-wire (I think about 1k for that) and the Klipsch DESTROY them in my mind. If you like "live feel" there is nothing like them. In fact it shocks me how little speakers have improved in 30 years (or 60 years in the Khorns instance)
In fact I question Linn's theory (that they have proved many times) that the source is the most important in the Hi-Fi chain. Linn's theory is top notch source with lessor rest of gear including speakers trumps expensive speakers with lessor source. I think is right if all things are equal but Klipsch heritage are NOT equal! They make a sound and feel that most either LOVE or hate. (I am in the LOVE camp and other speakers are boring to me)
So here goes and I hope this helps guys looking at caps in the future. Keep in mind Klipsch (heritage Khorns Belle's and Lascala's especially) are likely to show the effects of crossover changes more then most.
1 The caps are 30 years old and
2 the speakers being horn driven make changes 10x times more apparent.
Someone once told me find speakers and components you like THEN start to tweak if needed. Don't tweak something you not in love with. Makes sense to me.
So sound
Record is Let it Be (Beatles)
The voices are hard almost sounds like a worn out stylus.
Treble is very hard. I Me Mine has hard sounding guitars. Symbals sound awful. Everything has a digital vs. analog comparison x50! Paul's voice not as bad as John's and George's. Voices will crack.
different lp
Trumpets sound awful. Tambourine terrible. Bass is not great seems shy (compared to normal) but the bad caps draw soooooo much attention to the broken up mid range and hard highs that are not bright if anything it seems the highs are not working up to snuff. I have went many times to speaker to make sure tweeters are even working.
All in all they sound like crap except these Klipsch have such fantastic dynamics that even when not right they are exciting!
Makes me wonder about the people who do not like them if they are hearing worn out caps and cheap electronics? Then I can see why they do not like them! If I did not know better from 25+ years of ownership that would make sense.
For the new crossover I have chosen Mundorf Silver in Oil from what I have read and can afford. I want a warm not overly detailed sound as Klipsch already has lots of detail and does not need to be "livened up" they need lush smooth sounding caps. Hope I have made the right choice?
When the crossover is in I will do a initial impression on same lp's. Right now it goes from really bad (on what may be worn vinyl) to not as bad but NOT great on great vinyl. (I know the quality of the vinyl because tested on other speakers Linn)
The new caps are Mundorf Silver in Oil and new copper foil inductors are coming. I will at the same time be rewiring the speakers to 12 guage from the lamp cord that PWK put in. PWK was a master at getting very good sound often with crap by today's standards components.
The choice of speakers would be a toss up now depending on what I am listening to. Klipsch vastly more dynamic but if the breaking up of the sound becomes to much to effect enjoyment the Linn would be a better choice on that Lp. If I could I would switch a button back and forth between speakers depending on song and how bad the break-up sound was bothering me.
3,012 responses Add your response
Face I did just order a 10 guage North Creek today. It changes the resistance from .29ohms to .15ohms. I understand the bass will be tighter but maybe leaner? A 12 guage is the closest to original spec. After listening I would like tighter faster bass. I hope I have guessed right? North Creek seems to think I will like 8 guage even better. It is not the money it is am going in the right direction. Might have an inductor to sell. The part I don't like about tuning is selling parts for half or less that have no use! I did not know Clarity cap came from Wales? It is quite big. |
Sorry guys for the commodity post. The stock and commodity trader coming out in me. I do not own copper futures but other commodities. I bought the first 20 ft of Duelund copper wire. (more to come) Ait like you I am trying for bang for buck. I think that is why threads like this can help. I am getting North Creek knowing (or at least I believe Irish65) that Duelund sounds better but at $1k an inductor! I can get North Creek and V-Cap teflon an amp for less! Now would a VCap'ed amp and North Creek inductors sound better? Not sure but would expect so. Duelund I do have the upmost confidence in your products no doubt but why do your inductors cost sooooo much more than anyone else? Your caps are not? Yes they are more but not that much more. |
Sorry copper link. http://www.fwallstreet.com/blog/183.htm Rumour has it that the Chinese want copper (and other commodities) instead of $. So unlikely we are going to see copper prices of 6 years ago maybe the lowest in history. In the 1800's copper was $16 a pound. Those North Creek inductors have 10 lbs of copper in the 8 guage so up to $160 in 1800's copper prices per inductor! http://silverstockreport.com/email/copper_discovery.html |
Ait Sorry I was kind of joking with the Iron core. Meaning it is a side benefit of hysteresis. I totaly understand where you are coming from on the cost factor and think you have made good choices. Mundorf Supreme's are a very good bang for the buck cap. I would love Duelund inductors but that is the tough part knowing if that is the best place to put fixed amount of $. Duelund resitors are supposed to be best bang for the buck part as well. Keep us posted on your rebuild. I did check on a seperate issue on the net they had copper prices the lowest in history in 2002. (U.S. $) The second lowest year was 1932. (inflation adjusted price) So today's copper price is not out of line at all! In fact when my speaker were built copper was twice as expensive as today. Steen did say good inductors would be measured in pounds or kilo's of copper or silver etc. |
I am building outboard x-overs using the Northcreek inductors on the woofers and low mid, and Solen Heptalitz inductors on everything else (it is a 6-way design with 10 inductors, 9 capacitors, 5 resistors and three adjustment pots per speaker). Needless to say if I went Duelund for caps and inductors I'd be broke, so I'm using Mundorf Supreme caps and the above-mentioned inductors!! I might spring for some Duelund resistors, however. I did the driver induction experiment just to see how close I could get to the inductors before I heard interference - it was very surprising how much of a magnetic field they set up. If you put those inductors inside a speaker enclosure you'd better make sure they are far from the drivers. Also, inductors will interfere with each other (look up "inductor crosstalk"). The inductors need to be well separated in space if they are in the same plane (i.e. both lying flat), I found that the bigger inductors need ~8 inches between them in that sort of arrangement. If you place them with their axes at 90 degrees, you can get them closer - see the chart I linked below: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?p=1500176 Iron has a much higher magnetic permeability than air, and that causes the magnetic field of iron-core inductors to be contained in a much smaller space, so they can be placed closer together than air cores without interfering. Iron cores, however suffer from hysteresis distortion and can saturate at high power levels. I have not heard the Northcreeks in a finished speaker yet, only on the crossover prototype board with a driver wired into them - they sound good, but I won't know any more until I finish putting the speakers back together. |
Wow! Ait My speaker design makes 90 deg easy as the crossover sits flat but do not like the sound of that idea sound coming out of the wrong driver! What would be lots of space. I have done some reading with some saying that was one "advantage" (if you want to call it that) of Iron core is the Iron core overwhelms everything in the area so it not affected by magnets from drivers. (if you call that an advantage?) Have you thought about outboard? I can find very little on this subject of inductors? (except from manufactures) What do the North Creek's sound like? Did you come from Iron Core or another Air Core? and same guage? |
Be careful with the placement of huge gauge air core inductors - they throw off very large magnetic fields! I'm experimenting with some 12 gauge Northcreek inductors for my speakers, and they will actually cause music to play from a disconnected driver if it is passed with 2-3 inches of them, right through thin air! I can only imagine that the 8 and 10 gauge will produce even bigger fields than that. So be sure to orient the crossover components in ways that minimize these effects (axes at 90 deg angles, lots of space in between, etc.). There are placement diagrams on the internet to help with that. |
Duelund I am not sure? Very thin though maybe 18 to 22 guage. .29DCR Iron core at 2.5mh. Should one want to go lower DCR? I keep hearing two sides to that issue. A 12 guage Air Core closely matches original DCR. 10 and 8 guage are both or course lower DCR. Guage of wire is one issue but resonance must also be an issue and more than I thought. When one can clearly hear less resonance from the VSF (an excellent cap) to CAST. Another issue must be the silk or whatever the wire is coated in as Irish65 thought your 12 gauge to sound better than 8 guage albeit at much more cost. But I also assume resonance means much more in the tweeter freq than the woofer? Am I wrong here? North Creek says people talk about improved midrange (with the bigger lower DCR woofer coil) is that because of less resonance (with a high quality coil) in the low freq make the midrange stand out better more clearly? If I get 10 or 8 guage I am looking at dual runs of Duelund 14.5 guage copper hook up wire to the woofer. It just seems strange to have a thick wire inductor running to a less thick hook up wire. Bottle neck? Thanks very much for the help in clearing the thought process on this. I assume the Silk and oil on the copper wire is the same as on the capacitors and inductors? |
Talked to North Creek on the phone about inductors. Hysteresis The thing that surprised me most was they said most people talked about improved midrange with a new woofer inductor. Hmmm Hysteresis I feel I have compression right below mid freq I am very curios to see if this is gone with either a 10 or 8 guage inductor? |
Whatever speaker crossover part you change out you need to put some QuickSilver Gold contact enhancer on them. I put some of this on all crossover parts and hook-up wires from my crossover to my speaker drivers. I can't believe how good my old Sansui sp-5500's sound now! This has to be the best upgrade you can do to your speakers! |
Volleyguy, I will say this. If you purchased the North Creek inductors you will not feel that you are missing anything. The 8 awg are fairly large inductors. Compared to the other brands of inductors I have already mentioned the North Creek's dwarf the others. The Duelund's are about the same size (Cast). It is funny how some say they make a difference and others who say they do not. That is what led me on this journey I took. I wanted to know for myself. I purchased numerous caps and inductors and listened for myself. The upside is now I know what works best for me. The downside is I spent a significant amount of money to determine this. |
Thanks a ton Irish65. I have a parallel inductor on the tweeter circuit. Do these make much difference? I am still kicking myself for not ordering Duelund inductors when I put in my order. (much lower prices then) The problem with these kind of parts is they are of course non returnable. This is the reason I started this thread I could not find non corporate info on caps at least not as detailed as I was looking. Some tech guys even said all caps were the same as long as they measured right? Another tech said ALL new caps would be better than your old ones. Boy did I find that NOT to be the case. The cheap caps were way worse then the original foil ones the Mundorfs were better, but still not as good in the midrange as orginals and all were sold at a fraction of what I had in them. (exept one 2.2 Mundorf Silver in Oil if someone wants it) The "expensive" Duelund's ended up being the cheapest! I still have and love 'em! They were the only ones better in every way. (than original foils) This is the reason I still have the old inductors. I really do not like buying and losing money. Since you said the North Creeks were good I have checked and many do like them and often a lot! (some of those are Duelund users as well at least the caps) If I take your discription right like going from VSF to CAST that to me means really, really good to something I did not know possible. Thanks again |
Volleyguy, The North Creek inductors I like very much. I like them best on the bottom end because they reveal more info than other inductors. This includes Mundorf, Solen, and Alpha-core. You will not be dissapointed with them. The North Creek inductors do have a low DCR but so do the Duelunds. I do not know what it is but I have compared the North Creek to the Duelunds and prefer the Duelunds. I use the Cast inductors not their WPIO. The difference between the North Creek and Duelund is like going from a VSF cap to a Cast cap. If you were to use both because of cost use the North Creek for thr bottom end (larger inductor with lower cost compared to Duelund) and use Duelund for the smaller values. |
Irish65 The North Creek inductors how do they compare to most stock inductors? When I placed my Duelund order I did not order inductors. I was unsure if they would be worth it. If I remember reading right in Steens writing's him saying an inductor MUST have low DCR. With this being the case would not North Creeks 8 guage be in a league of it's own? North Creek uses no plastics correct? I might look at getting North Creek maybe more in my price range. How do they compare? I know you said second favourite to Duelund. Is that Duelund WPIO or the CAST inductor? North Creek is much cheaper! With the parts you have tried you are putting them in elite company. What would be the difference in Duelund? The Silk instead of varnish? |
Irish65 Please keep us posted on your electronics cap test. I am like I said finding the right amp and then will start the rebuild. You are comparing many of the best and would really like to hear what you find out. I am not looking for Duelund to do any tilting (with Silver) just do not want the tilt from Silver that I got from Mundorf SIO. (just not to my liking that upward tilt) I prefer that Duelund natural sound. Copper wire is in my budget but might try a small amount of Silver out of curiousity. Then it will become like the CAST caps leaving me wanting more! Your assessment on CAST to VSF. I found the CAST wayyyy quieter and with that much bigger size wayyyy more dynamic. I am curious if that dynamics carries over into coupling caps? I do find in the CAST to be somewhat more demanding though, they do not smooth out any upstream problems. The VSF resonate more with smoothing and smearing, but I much prefer CAST. Since I have one of each cap in series where would you put the CAST first or last? I have heard many say you get much of the benefit of the better cap, meaning a VSF and CAST is not half way between but closer to CAST? True? |
Volleyguy, For me the additional cost was well worth the price of admission going to the Cast Silver capacitors. I tried the VSF first a few years ago then compared them to the Cast copper, then took the jump to the Cast Silver. Absolutely no regrets. I did not compare the Duelund CU wire to the Duelund 2.0 Ag wire. I just know what I like and the Duelund 2.0 scratched the itch I had. I do use the Duelund 2.0 for speaker wiring also. It is the same wire as the hook up wire. If you are looking to have the Duelund speaker wire to tilt your system to your liking it will not do that. It is a cable that just gets out of the way which to me is what a speaker cable is suppose to do. Get everything else right in your system first then put in the Duelund wire. I have spent a significant amount of money playing around with different caps in the crossover. For me going entirely Duelund works best. I really like the North Creek inductors (8 awg) but have found the Duelund to reveal more info in the lower frequencies than the North Creek. The North Creek inductors are my second choice. I am working on modding my source. I will be comparing Duelund caps (630v) to Clarity MR, V- caps, Mundorf Silver/gold, and Modwright teflon caps. I have had the other caps on hand for a few months and need to make time to get that project started. |
Irish65 Yes the CAST vs. VSF is a big difference at double the price but the Silver is 5x CAST copper's price! That is a BIG difference! That is wayyyyy out of my league but it is very nice to hear that at least there is something for the 5x $. (for the well heeled or just addicted!) Did you compare the Silver 2.0 to the copper wire by Duelund? Likely not if you use 2.0. Do you use Duelund speaker cable? Tried the caps in electronics? Thanks |
Volleyguy, I use the 2.0 silver wire. Some silver wire that I have used the bass seems to go south for the winter. With the Duelund wire (silver) I did not have this problem. The best way to describe it is to say everything just sounded right. Meaning it has an organic and naturalness to it that is additive. If the cost is an issue then I would suggest you start at the frequencies that your ears are most sensitive. My are the higher frequencies so if cost were a concern I would use the Duelund wire on the tweeter first. Other it may be the midrange. I agree with your assessment of the VSf compared to the Cast. It really is a big difference but at double the price. The silver Cast is significantly more but to me it is worth it. The clarity is like nothing I ever heard before. It seems to put flesh on the images if that makes sense to you. My advice is do not listen to them if you do not plan to spend that kind of money. You will no doubt get bit and the only anti venom is to pony up the cash and purchase them. |
Irish65 You are just the guy I need to talk too! Is it copper wire with copper capacitors. I just can not see the need for a short bit of Silver wire? I have many other areas that need $ in my system, I would think before Silver wire. Now since I will never likely hear a Silver CAST capacitor can you describe it to us? Thanks |
I"ve had no problems with the Duelund 2.0 silver wire. I used a razor and cut around the outside silk jacket. Once this is done I pulled it off which reveals the silver annealed wire. The silver will have an orange look to it from the oil which must be cleaned before you solder. I use a Dremel tool with a brass brush on it. This gets the oil residue off and polishes the wire at the same time. I cut a piece cotton to put over the bare wire and keep this in place with a non static shrink wrap. Remember no plastic. This has worked great for me. When using the Duelund components throughout the crossover the Duelund wire makes more sense. I've used their VSF Cu caps, Cast CU caps, Cast Ag caps, Cast inductors, and the Duelund resistors and like the Duelund wire mated with them. Of course this is my opinion but if the wire is made in the same fashion as the crossover components then why not use it? |
Volley - yes I mean Duelund wire. I cut some cover back to solder - frays a bit - drop of silicon conformal coating would probably fix it right up but it would be nice if Mr Duelund could advise us as the wire is very different from anything else out there except some very light gauge cotton dielectric stuff |
Ckorody I assume you mean Duelund wire? That seems to be Duelund's forte basically a vintage idea done to modern specs and of course no plastic. I am very glad to hear the wire sounds (assuming you mean Duelund) good though. I do not have tight spaces to worry about. It is amazing to hear how many people are rebuilding crossovers. Didn't we used to just buy new speakers? Is this a growing trend on the importantce and cost effectiveness of crossover rebuilds? Big market for you Duelund as there are a ton of well built speakers with crappy internal parts! |
Ait do you really think Duelund (or anyone) could sell a wire that had oil dripping out of it??? Sounds kind of dangerous! Frederik what is "baked" and what does it mean from an audio point of view? Frederik you did not say on the which metal for wire? or which metal where? You have been very modest all along. I remember Burt telling me that the difference from VSF to CAST would not be a great as vintage to VSF. Letting me know of law of diminishing returns from an already great cap. It is refreshing in this business! To be honest it was someone on this site who recommended your VSF caps and I thought I would try one thinking I was throwing my money away. I was shocked! Then again to be honest the CAST I expected to not even hear the difference. (from VSF or what scared me be not as good) Shocked again! Wire? If I hear a differnce of crossover wire short amounts really I'll say it again, I'll be shocked! Sherod I have offered Arthur from highend audio to come hear these speakers. I said to him if Klipschorns are Class C upper (just down from Class B) these are no comparison! I said I would let him decide how far up the ranking they would go. Arthur is from Canada about an hour from where I live but lives in the Florida now. I am not saying they are the best for everyone but if one likes Klipsch (for what they can do) like Arthur does these are clearly a massive improvement. |
I used the 14ga to wire the woofers when I rebuilt the crossovers on my Meadowlark Kestrels. It is massive, very stiff stuff that reminds me of the old time copper wire people used to wire houses with back in the days of glass fuses. Not at all easy to snake into tight places. But it sure sounds good - bass is nice, taut and crisp. |
Volley, the idea of oil-soaked cotton resting on my hardwood floors or touching the exterior of my crossover/speaker cabinets just didn't sound too good to me, and I had visions of the oil getting on everything as I hooked the crossovers up to the speakers. Maybe that doesn't happen, but that's what bothered me. I'm sure the wire sounds great. |
Ait the Duelund cotton concerned you? Do you mean from a short point of view? Interesting on the tweeter wire I have always wondered that if lighter wire for delicate signal but have no proof. I am only using Duelund wire out of respect. The company who gave me the most bang for the buck improvement (new) ever and tonal realism I did not know possible from their caps is getting my $'s. I wish Frederik would come back on and say what to do? Silver for tweeters and copper or whatever for woofer but I doubt he will do that? When looking at connectors at mid fi store I did hear their top stereo and Holy Crap am I getting spoiled! (it was like black and white after having colour) I have to drive about an hour to hear real expensive stuff and am going to do it. Not trying to brag but I think my speakers will SMOKE anything they have! |
I'm rebuilding a set of Infinity RSIIb speakers with external crossovers and I'm using Cardas Copper Litz wire (Teflon insulation), 17.5 gauge on the tweeters, 15.5 gauge on the mids, and 11.5 gauge on the woofers. There are a total of 8 drivers, ten inductors, nine caps and four resistors per speaker. A little harder to work with but Litz wire is said to provide better transfer of high frequencies, and since every strand is individually coated with lacquer, it will never corrode. Will be a big step up over the original wire, which is actually Monster cable that had started to turn green from oxidation (it says "Wired with Monster Cable" right on the speaker). I thought about the Duelund wire but the oiled cotton insulation turned me off - it sounds a bit messy to me, especially since the wire will be outside the speakers due to my external crossover. There are some who feel that there are maximum gauges for each level of driver, i.e. don't use too big of a gauge on a tweeter or you will lose some of the detail. My speaker cables are Zu Ibis, pricey but very, very detailed. |
I "hope" to notice a difference. I was a mid fi store today just checking on some connections etc and think I am going to hard wire as well. Klipsch used to use some pretty crappy parts like spades connection strips etc. Paul Klipsch of course is famous for saying anything more than lamp cord for speaker wire is b*llshit! I do not agree with that statement and have noticed an improvement going to heavier gauge but have never used expensive wire. My linn speakers came with $1k of Linn tri-wire and like I said on here before it ran through a $2 tweeter cap and to me that is b*llshit! I am not going crazy on wire and hope to notice an improvement but really am not holding my breath somewhat heavier guage and no plastic. If someone said to me a choice of $ on wire or Duelund caps it would take .2 seconds to decide that! |
Congratulations on the Duelund wire purchase. How many feet will you be using? For my system of 4 drivers per speaker, I will need a total of about 84 feet. I have had one person suggest soldering the hook up wire to the speakers and also solder at the crossover connection. That makes sense to me. Did Partsconnexion give you any info on the Duelund wire? Michael and Chris were quite helpful when I placed my capacitor order. I look forward to your experience with the more complete Duelund sound. David Pritchard |
Hope you get some answers David. I too am waiting on the Silver wire comparisons otherwise I am going to order copper. Please post your Duelund cap impressions! 8 guage would sure lower resistance! For me I find the higher the freq the more the need for quality. If I did want to try Silver I would start in the tweeter. If you notice no difference I doubt you would in the mids. |
Dear Volleyguy and Friends, Concerning the inductor question. At Audio Karma in tne Klipsch Forum there is a great thread about upgrading the Klipsch crossovers started by SET-12. In the Klipsch Forte, he tried both the Alpha Core and the North Creek inductors. He preferred the North Creek 8 guage. He found it to be a major improvement in bass manage ment. He did think the tweeter is improved in the Forte in upgrading that inductor to a North Creek 8 guage. I have the North Creek inductors inhand-custom wound but delivered in 10 days. I am still waiting for Duelund to send the caps for the midrange and tweeter, and the tweeter resistor. Yes the most practible approach for me is to use the Kimber PR for my hook up wire-but. I do wish I could hear someone who has tried the Duelund 0.5 silver wire against other wires. I have had 3 Audiogonners E-mail me to tell me they had used Duelund wire and were happy-but no comparison reports. It was mentioned that great care has to be taken to get the impregnating oil off the wire when sodering the wire. I will try to see if Partsconnexion can give me some ideas on hook up wire. They were very helpful in my Duelund order. Maybe Duelund for the mid and tweeter and ordinary wire for the bass. Lastly I am thinking that silver may be better long term than copper as when silver oxidizes it does not degrade the sound- so I am told. David Pritchard |
We need some guys who have tried plastic free. Dgarretson can you come in comment? If you believe the Duelund story it is the oil impregnated cotton wrapped wire one wants. I have said it before (and taken a ribbing) I think getting the plastic out to be big. Getting the static off the wire makes sense to me and cotton does not get a static build up like plastic. I am getting Duelund wire for sure just Copper or Silver and I think copper. |