Audio Technica AT ML-180 Cartridge Advice


Just acquired an Audio Technica AT ML-180 cartridge with broken cantilever and was looking for advice on where to get a new cantilever rebuild and what material to choose from. My preference is a new Boron cantilever but was not sure who, apart from Soundsmith, offers this service.

Also would like to know which is the best tonearm to use for this cartridge once it's fixed. It can either go on my Audiomods Series 5 (eff. mass approx. 11g) or the arm on my Yamaha GT 2000 which has an effective mass of approx. 20g.

Thanks in advance.
ateal
The original is gold plated hollow pipe boron with tiny nude microline stylus, i have a few samples of perfectly working at-ml180 and at-ml170. I also have a few broken samples of both, one of them is here. I think the best option is Expert Stylus & Cartridge Co. service in UK, they are very good in communication and very well organized, reasonable prices (imo). Contact Email: info@expertstylus.co.uk

Here is the info i got from them:
"We shall need to carry out a detailed examination and assuming we find the cartridge repairable, our charges to carry out a complete overhaul to include materials as necessary and auditioning will be between £291.00 - £330.00. With the work carried out we aim to return the cartridge to as near new condition as possible. Should we find the cartridge in relatively good order, apart from a badly damaged cantilever or the stylus to be showing excessive wear, our chatges will vary between £120.00 - £180.00."

I use my AT-ML180 and AT-ML170 on Victor UA-7045, Lustre GST-801 and Reed 3P "12 Cocobolo. 

Thanks Chakster that is very helpful. Would you suggest Boron cantilever? Also what diamond profile.


Yeah, closer to the original, unfortunately hollow pipe boron is not available anymore in the world (which makes the original cartridge so special). 

I would use boron with microline/microridge type of diamonds. They call it paratrace. See below what they said:

"We manufacture cantilevers in aluminium, boron and sapphire. I would also advise the Paratrace profile diamond is possibly the most advanced diamond produced world wide." -ExpertStylus 
SME III w/ 5.0 g teak damped titanium nitride S-shaped want + fluid damping is designed especially for HQ HC MM cartrides. You will have a terrific combo. Good luck for searching

The (gold plated) hollow pipe boron cantilever no retipper can

offer. I sold my AT 170 and 180 but still own 160. I am not sure

but think that 160 has the same cantilever/stylus combo as 170

and 180? Perhaps  an second hand AT 160 is an better option?

To glue the present  boron rod on the restant of the AT 180

cantilever an aluminum ''bridge pipe'' need to be glued above

both parts. For +/- 300 GBP pretty expensive solution while the

result is questionable. I hope chakster can answer the question

about AT 160?

Never seen AT-ML160, it can be closer to AT-ML150 which has a beryllium cantilever, the 150 is also very good cartridge, but not as good as the 170.

AT-ML180 is completely different compard to all of them.

The problem with the 160 models is that you will not find it in the catalog where this number simply missed, there are 140, 150, 170, 180 in comparison chart, but there is nothing about 160. Maybe the 160 was not for Japanese marked and that’s the reason i do not see it in the catalogs?

I still have my second spare of the AT-ML170 in fully working condition if anyone need it.

However, the price for refurbishing of the broken needle is not equal to the price of the perfectly working sample of AT-ML170 or AT-ML180 cartridge. If the AT-ML170 normally goes for $750+ in working order, the AT-ML180 goes for over $1000. While the re-cantilevering starts from $250 (SoundSmith) or $400 (ExpertStylus). 

Dear chakster, You should be more precise. We are talking about

cantilever/stylus combo by AT 180, 170 and 160. The carts can

be different but why should the styli be different? The cantilever in

my AT 160 is also gold plated boron pipe. That is the reason for

my guess that all 3 are the same. How is 180 stylus ''totaly different''?

The styli by AT have nearly identical construction.

I am precise as much as your best MC cartridge, lol

Even AT-ML150 cantilever is Gold Plated too, but it’s not Boron, it’s Gold Plated Beryllium. Here is a picture of my ex AT-ML150. So i just don’t know anything about your 160 model (can be beryllium or boron). But the next model in official Japanese catalog is AT-ML170 with different cantilever and different style of mounting stylus tip on this hollow boron cantilever: https://scontent-amt2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20139640_1791997270818432_584247051679766313_n.jpg?oh=...

Why the AT-ML180 stylus/cantilever is different?
The stylus is 0.08mm (for others it's 0.1 mm). Vertical tracking angle is 23 degree (for others it’s 20 degree).
Dear @ateal: I think your today tonearm will works fine as a fact you can't say after the re-building which will be the new compliance figure or its VTF range.

I was a fan of the 180 but not now. In the other side and with a vintage cartridge when the cantilever, stylus tip shape and dampers are changed the cartridge will performs with different performance quality levels.

So you can choose boron but you can choose by material too that by its characteristics is better than boron. It's just an election, both can sounds good but I don't know for sure wich one can have higher quality levels.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.
@ateal I'm gonna send one of my Stanton CS-100 WOS to Expert Stylus in the future to get Paratrance diamond and new cantilever. Then i will be able to compare it to the original Stereohedron. For rare Stanton top of the line cartridge owner the Expert Stylus was numero uno service. That's how i know about them, loads of feedbacks online. 

Now we have Nandrik as an advocate of Expert Stylus.

The low pound is maybe the only one good thing about brexit.     

If you will send them your Audio-Technica let us know.
Then i will think about mine

But do you have the original Audio-Technica as the reference to compare the sound? If not then you never know what you got after refurbishing. 

There is nother service in UK called NordWest Analogue, but the guy never responded to my request regarding Audio-Technica and his prices is higher, you can try  www.northwestanalogue.com/
WOW, so many great responses. Thanks so much for all the information. I need to go through it all and digest.

Based on the comments it sounds like the lighter weight tonearm would be the best, which is what I am good with. 

Also sounds like I need to go for Boron with the best stylus profile. 

Thanks again 


Dear chakster, Before you make jokes about my ''best MC cart''

you should check tech. specs . of my Allaerts MC 2 . You will

not believe what you see. Now regarding our advice to ateal.

My (pre) assumptions are that no retipper can provide the right

cantilever/stylus combo as well that the AT 160 can be get for

about 300 GBP. In this context I think that AT 160 is his best

option. If ateal lives in Europe he can borrow my AT 160 to try.

If the postage to Russian Federation was cheaper you could

also and at last learn about AT 160 (grin).

Allaerts MC 2 - is that the one which cost like a used car ? 

Well, thanks for the offer, but i will stick to my working AT-ML180 OCC 
It was a genius combination to end up with 300 quid offer for AT-ML160, someone should buy it to compared to 170 and tell me the truth.  
What would be a better option.

1) Use AT ML150 Stylus with gold plated berylium, or
2) Have Expert Stylus or Garrott Bros install new Boron rod to existing Stylus assembly.

I am thinking option 1 which may be considerably cheaper.

I just want to add one very important thing you have missed. The generator of your AT-ML180 is electrically different from all previous models, so it is not designed to use styli from lower models. Most likely those styli will never sound correct with such a different generator. The inductance of AT-ML180 is different than AT-ML170, 160, 150, 140.

If your generator is AT-ML180 the replacement stylus must be ATN180ML.

But if your generator is not the AT-ML180 then you don’t have any problem to chande the styli, because 170,150,140 generators are the same (electrically). However, for the same reason you can't use ATN180ML stylus from AT-ML180 cart on any other cartridge in AT-ML line. 

So i think the only option is to refurbish your existing stylus by someone who understand that at-ml180 is very special cartridge.

My dear Slavic brother. For this kind of money I can buy a new

car. Your Lada. You deed not ,alas, grasped my offer. My proviso

was that you should pay postage of my AT 160 both ways (grin).

Your theory about dependance of cantilevers from cart inductance

is very curious. If the stylus holder does not fit the body of the

AT 180 than I hope that ateal can transplant the cantilever/stylus

combo from AT 150 to AT 180. The needed practice should be

done with cheap AT styli. I described the ''procedure'' elsewhere

(MM thread).

Dear @ateal: I can't understand why you are taking so much trouble with that AT. If I was you I just put on sale and at the same time look for other MM alternatives that can be vintage or today ones that are very good performers.

If you insist in your cartridge refurbish then Northwest named by @chakster  is the better quality option to do that work.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.
@rauliruegas  well, it's not easy to sell broken carts even if the repair service available, to find MM cart equal to AT-ML180 is not easy, especially for the price for repair (about 350 pounds).I'm not sure why do you think one service in UK is better than other. Personally i have never use repair service in UK. But Nordwest Analogue ignored by request made with his contact form on their website. But Exdpert Stylus repliad to all my messages immediately. As far as i know the Expert Stylus is manufacturer with 40 years of experience in refurbishing. Not sure how old is Dominic (Nordwest Analogue), but what is good is that anyone can see his portfolio, i believe his service is very good, but for premium prices. 

@nandric playing re-tippers by ourself is not for everyone to transplant the cantilever from one to another cart. I think @ateal looking for easiest solution. But the manufacturer voiced their top model with their top generator, there are many internal difference in the generator, but even vertical tracking angle of the cantilever itself is different. Swapping 170 styli with 180 styli is not a good idea. But no problem to swap 170 and 150/140. Anyone can find comparison chart of data for AT-Ml series in the gallery here.  
@ateal the guy you are quoting know nothing about the difference between two models if he think that 180 is Beryllium (in fact it is Boron). However there is a comment about the difference between 180 and all others (which is correct). I think i already explained why 180 is a different cartridge, look at the data.

I have a few 170 and 180 cartridges and i can swap the styli between them, they will fit, but they will not sound good/correct if the generators are swapped (they are different). 180 is a stand alone cartridge. So you can not upgrade the 170/150 cartridge with ANT180ML stylus and vice versa.

You need a retipper who really understand the subject, not just gluing whatever stylus/cantilever of this at-ml180 cartridge. 

Also i would never trust people who deal with Andy at Needle Clinic, i saw his woks on the pictures and it’s very bad quality, awful. So the advice to deal with Needle Clinic is a very bad advice. 

You have mentioned Garrott service in Australia, you should know that the brothers are no longer available, but the company has a good reputation. They can provide Micro Tracer or Micro Scanner diamonds along with Fritz Gyger (FG) diamond - this is a very good option if they can offer a Boron Cantilever.   

Dear chakster, from our discussion about Technics 205 series and

AT 180, 170, etc. series I can only conclude that you never

 disassemled any of those styli. If you deed you could see how

those are constructed and then ''grasp'' what an retipper can and

not can do. I retipped only one of my all MM carts. The reason is

the way this is done. Symple gluing the ''tubed'' aluminum cantilever

above the ''restant'' of the original cantilever.

All AT ''styli'' have the same construction. But the cantilever is

fastened and centered with the tension wire to the tube behind.

All MC carts use tension wire to connect the moving parts with

the damper and the rest of the generator . But by MM carts this

tension wire can't be removed or repaired. So the so called

''retip'' is limited to gluing an new cantilever above the rest of

the ''old cantilever''. Consider than the problem from retipper

side. A boron ( rod) cantilever can't be glued on the restant

of the old cantilever without the help of an aluminume tube as

bridge between the parts. Besides whatever boron kinds can't

be connected with the tension wire behind the original cantilever.

So advising co-members about possible retip without any idea

about what can be done and what not is very curious act based

on assumptions or rather speculations. The involved efforts

and costs  are then for the member who asked advice.

Because all AT styli have the same construction substituting the

cantilevers is obvious possibility. To prevent this AT invented

different coupling system between the stylus holder and the

cart body. Those can't be switched as ''stylus holder''. But by

removing the whole cantilever/ damping combo from one cart

and transplanting to the other this ''coupling problem'' can be

solved. BTW beryllium is better cantilever material than boron.

Even better than ''gold plated boron '' (grin).

 


Post removed 
@nandric

BTW beryllium is better cantilever material than boron.

Even better than ’’gold plated boron ’’

I can say for sure what is better in terms of cantilevers (i like beryllium on some carts, i like boron on others, and even aluminum on some of them), but i can say for sure that AT-ML180 is better than AT-ML170 and all previous models i have tried. The AT-ML180 was released in 1993 and it was the last and ultimate cartridge in this series. The AT-ML170 was made in the 80s (nearly 10 years earlier than AL-ML180). Earlier version have been discontinued when AT-ML180 was made.

I don’t really care what retipper can do with MM cartridge, but that’s the only way to get an old cart back to life (when the original stylus is not available). Remember SoundSmith and his Grace refurbishing (so many people use that option to replace the OG cantilever). And they can do that. It’s not the original sound, but it will work. Using another stylus from lower model can be an option, but in case with AT-ML180 is not the best solution. I think it’s better to buy the whole cartridge + stylus (aka the AT-ML15, 160 or more expensive AT-ML170) than tryin to buy just the stylus from inferior model to make sure it’s not equal to the performance level of the original stylus of the top model supposed to be used with this cart from the start (just a waste of money). The AT-ML150 is not a rare cartridge and the price is not high, so why not just buy the whole cartridge+stylus? The AT-ML180 deserve a much better stylus (the original, but it’s impossible to find separately from the cart). If someone can refurbish ATN180ML (Expert Stylus can do that, they told me) i don’t see the reason not to do so.

p.s. I would not advice people to use for example the stylus from Technics EPC 100c mk1 on Technics EPC 100c MK4 even if they are interchangeable mechanically. It make no sence (imo).

Dear chakster, ''I don't really care what retipper can do with MM

carts''. But how then  can you advice whomever about the retip

possibilities? You are ''swimming'' between possible and ideal

according to your own ''perception'' or rather ''preferences''. But

why should anyone care for your preferences? There are many

MM carts for which the original stylus is impossible to get. So

your ''ideal'' is irrelevenat. The owners of such carts will try to

find whatever substitution they can . Your advice not to use

the ''lesser than ideal'' stylus make then no sense. There are

obvious contradictions in your argumentation. Your own reference

is 145 euro for such ''substitution stylus''. But any retip with boron

cantilever + whatever stylus is above 400 euro. You are not in

the position like your brother to buy a new car instead of Allaerts

MC 2 (grin). I just checked my AT 160 and am stunned with the

quality of the cantilever/stylus quality. In no new cart at present

irrespective of price such quality can be seen. All those boron

rod cantilevers look the same. Your comparisson between

beryllium and boron is very curious. It looks like: ''John is

the tallest  guy in our class but Peter is even taller''.

Either beryllium is better material for cantievers than boron or not .

 If so then boron can't become ''better'' because chakster think so.


Well, i don't make such conclussion about cantilevers apart from the cartridge this cantilever designed for. As i said i have all types of cantilevers on my original cartridges (beryllium, sapphire, boron, titanium, aluminium etc) except maybe a diamond cantilever. Who cares about cantilever materials alone? It's much more important in which cartridge and how it was used by the original designer. As stated in my ad this AT-ML170 can be refurbished by SoundSmith with his Ruby cantilever with Nude Contact Line stylus just for $250 in the USA. So it is not necessary to pay 350 pounds for Boron with Paratrace from Expert Stylus. Of course it's up to the owner. Ateal already have his cartridge and there are many ways to refurbish it with different materials from the different retippers in the different countries. 

Buyin another fully working cartridge like your AT-ML160 is another option, but even taking this option the owner of the broken AT-ML180 can refurbish it to have another cartridge on hands, not just throw it away for nothing.  I also have another AT-ML180 OCC with broken cantilever and that's why this case is interesting for me. 

We're all know what we can try to find the original styli or inferior styli from the lower models, but this is not the case here! 
^ Quite rightly so. Ateal, your AT is a very special cartridge and deserves the best stylus there possibly exists. More precicely, it must have a miniatyre ML stylus tip ; )

''Well , I don't make such conclusion about cantilevers apart from

the cartridge this CANTILEVER designed for''. A cart designed for

a specific cantilever? Are you shure  about that chakster?

By way of introduction:

Skeptic nr.1 : ''One thing, my dear, is for sure: nothing is for sure''.

Skeptic nr.2: ''Are you sure about that?''

You own some of those Glanz carts. I own MF 31 l, 51 L and 71l.

They all have the same generator but different cantilevers. The

same apply for the Astatic (100, 200, etc.)

You can buy (in theory) Koetsu Coral stone with diamond and

boron cantilever. I own Sony XL 88 D (D= diamond  cantilever)

and XL 88 with boron cantilever. But the most abundant choice

for his customers was made by Klipsch. ''His'' (from Japan) MC

cart could be bought with aluminum, saphire, boron and diamond

cantilever. In the same cart ! The idea being that different customers

may prefer slightly different timbre.

If your theory was ,say, correct for all those different cantilevers

different carts should be made.

There is this metaphorical saying that ''the whole is more than its

parts''. Metaphorical because we would need some other

number theory accoding to which 2+2= 5 .

What is meant is that the whole is complex and parts simple(r).

The whole constructed from different parts is called ''composition''

this in contradistinction to a heap of stones which is called

aggregation. In this sense a cart is an composition by which one

can't sellect one part and call this part ''essence'' of the thing

composed. This is an old and autdated methodology ascribed

to Aristoteles. Sugano san, Ikeda san, Takeda san, Mori san

and ''our'' Van den Hul, Lukatschek ,etc. are a kind of artist

who composed works of art with their cartridges.


OK, as an update, I was fortunate to find a brand new ML150 stylus from Japan and it arrived today.

After thorough inspection to check it was indeed brand new I fitted it to the ML180 body and installed it on the not so ideal Yamaha GT2000 tonearm. I say not so ideal as the tonearm and headshell have a combined effective mass of 19g and this cart really needs to be on a much lighter tonearm like my Audiomods which is fitted to my Oracle Delphi. 

Now I should point out that it is my intention to rebuild the ML 180 stylus, but I wanted to hear the potential of the cart before I shell out a lot of money on a new cantilever and exotic stylus. 

Well my first impressions are very favorable there is great detail, great tone, expansive soundstage, quiet in the groove and reasonably smooth delivery. Whilst it sounds very good you can tell it needs breaking in and should get better with more play. 

As as a reference point for my observations my other carts are Grace F9 Ruby, Spectral Reference, Shinon Boron Red, Fidelity Research FR1 MK3F, Ortofon SPU. From first impressions I think this cart configuration holds its own in this company. 
@ateal great, if you like the ANT150ML stylus on lower inductance AT-ML180 body then you will be blown away buy the quality of the original ATN180ML stylus if you will ever find it, the difference between 150 and 180 is huge (owned both). ATN170ML is also much better that 150 in my opinion. I hope you will find them. My first cart in this series was the AT-ML150 and the sound quality was very good, then i decided to look for higher models (170 and 180). Luckily i got them, even some spares. BTW i have the original AT-ML150 generator as a spare for your ATN150ML stylus (they are made for each other, while the AT-ML180 is not perfect match for your stylus because of the different generator :). The broken ATN170-ML stylus for experiments also included. I wish someone can rebuild this and share the experience. If rebuild version can suprass the AT-ML150 then it worth it. The mid mass tonearm is OK for them. 
Dear @ateal: Good that’s working fine and as you said it will be better with more play hours.

Now, the 150/170 has almost the same stylus tip than 180 and this makes almost no difference per sé, even the 180 is more demanding on its VTA/SRA set up.

The inductance issue that chakster is talking is not a day and nigth difference, those 3 models shares same output level. Compliance is the same and this point is important. So your cartridge is almost a 180 and the only way to compare it vs the original is to have the original and attest what you really are losting with the 180/150 combination you are playing rigth now.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.


Dear @ateal: Thank's to your patience you found out that 150, good .

Now, you can make serious quality improvements in what you have: as you can note the cantilever/sttylus holder build material is not exactly the same in the 180 and 150, where the 180 is less resonant and this means lower signal degradation vs the 150. It makes a difference for the better.

So you have the alternative to send both to Northwest for he can make the change in the 150 to the 180 holder or better yet that Northwest takes the cantilever/stylus from the 150 and put in the 180 holder.
Of course that you have to ask Northwest if they can do that work, my take is that they can. Only an opinion.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.
Thanks Raul for your helpful comments. Some very good things to consider.

Can I ask a simple question. Apart from the cantilever, stylus and suspension what else is installed in the replacement stylus holder. Is there something electrical, or is all that in the cartridge body. 

The reason I ask is that there is a rectangular shape on the underside of the stylus with a screw, and I wondered if this held something.

Thanks again.
This is the MicroLine tip under microscope:
https://scontent-ams3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20915345_1832165316801627_5760303121509827871_n.jpg?oh...

I will add more pics from my camera below:

1) This is the MicroLine tip factory mounted on hollow pipe gold plated Boron cantilever of the AT-ML170 cartridge:
https://scontent-ams3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20139640_1791997270818432_584247051679766313_n.jpg?oh=...

This is the side view of the same ML tip on Boron Cantilever:
https://scontent-ams3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20476291_1811602778857881_2214966213583186174_n.jpg?oh...

2) The lower model (AT-ML150) has Beryllium cantilever (not Boron) and utilizing different mounting method of the stylus tip (the stylus tip mass is higher). This is how it looks: https://scontent-ams3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15977210_1531424726875689_1265492799104053173_n.jpg?oh...

Another view on ATN150ML: https://scontent-ams3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14359084_1375631022455061_9194266573847102555_n.jpg?oh=6b6125d75ae5af1738e155da3114acc2&oe=5A8F0F61

3) And here is a broken ATN170ML stylus/cantilever assembly and AT-ML150 generator: https://scontent-ams3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22046807_1885755611442597_8339245905224038637_n.jpg?oh...


I think I may have answered my question. The only other components in the stylus holder apart from cantilever, stylus and suspension is the compliance adjustment screw and the suspension filament.

Therefore the only difference I can see between the ML150 stylus and the ML180 stylus is the cantilever material (boron tube vs Beryllium) and size of microline stylus (0.08 vs 010).
Chakster, thanks for those images they are very interesting.

I am guessing from those photos and the differences you have personally heard between 150 and 170, it all comes down to the mass and rigidity of the cantilever.

I think it is this single factor that sets the two apart. Especially since the diamond profile and size are the same. 

I therefore agree with everyones comments that the only way to improve would be to have a short boron tube cantilever installed with a microline type stylus. 

Interestingly enough I have had a verbal quote from Van Den Hul who can provide new boron pipe cantilever with VDH natural diamond and rebuild the suspension, all for US$750 incl. shipping and insurance.

I may give it some consideration, however I feel very happy with the current set up especially since it is a brand new stylus.
@ateal
Therefore the only difference I can see between the ML150 stylus and the ML180 stylus is the cantilever material (boron tube vs Beryllium) and size of microline stylus (0.08 vs 010).

Not ONLY, the AT-ML180 is superior also because the different genegator (the inductance is lower) and some other parameters are different from all others. Check this http://img.ukaudiomart.com/uploads/large/1644009-very-rare-atn170ml-stylus-for-repair-with-fully-wor...



Chakster can I ask what the main sound differences were between the 150 and the 170. For example frequency extension, soundstaging, tone, imaging, smoothness, etc, etc.

Thanks


Chakster, isn't the generator in the body of the cartridge (which I have the 180)?

Thanks
If you have the 180 generator then all you need is a better stylus/cantilever designed for this generator. 

I do not have my old AT-ML150 on hands now, but i have AT-ML170 and AT-ML180 - my top cartridges, i just love them, they do everything right compared to many other serious cartridges of much higher price. Last night i played records with AT-ML180 on Victor UA-7045 tonearm against FR-7f on Lustre GST-801 tonearm with Luxman silver SUT. I have not used AT-ML180 for a while, but the sound of than Audio-Technica is just spectacular! I can not say the same about AT-ML150, it was good, but not so impressive. Cartridges are impressive of not, but it's important to make comparison. Two days ago i just put together my new stands for 2 Luxman PD-444 aroung a rack with different phono stages, sut, headamp. Now i can use 4 tonearms, must be some fun for the winter.    
Chakster, thanks for the reply. I will certainly keep a look out for an ML170 or ML180 stylus but for now I will probably hold off on rebuilding the damaged ML180 Cart as I do not think it will ever reproduce the sound like the original would. 


You’re right, it will be a different cartridge anyway, but i will tell you that replacement styli for AT-ML170 and AT-ML180 are impossible to find even in Japan, i have never seen any of them in the past 3 years, only with used cartridges. That’s the problem, the stylus for AT-ML150 is easy to find, but the styli for higher AT models are impossible to find NOS or used.

The retip of the top AT carts ( top Signets included) make

only sense if the stylus only need to be changed. Either because

the stylus is lost or worn uit. The cantilever can't be changed

because those are fastened to the tension wire which is in

the tube behind the cantilever. One should use an cheap AT

stylus/cantilever combo to experiment. The whole combo can

be removed from the stylus holder by losening the small screw

on the inside of the stylus holder. Then one can see the whole

construction which is identical by all AT carts. From such experiment

one can also deduce if the reverse job can be done. If one is

not sufficient skilful for the job one should not try.

The suspension (aka ''rubber ring'') is just in front of the stylus

holder tube. Its hardness determine compliance. When the whole

cantilever/stylus combo is put back in the stylus holder the

mentioned small srew should be fastened after the centering of

the stylus is done.

For stylus only retip I can recommend Expert stylus (+/- 200GBP).

Thanks for the explanation Nandric. 

Can I ask what determines the frequency range, for example 5 to 40,000. Is it the cartridge body/generator or is it the cantilever/stylus?
@ateal

 Can I ask what determines the frequency range, for example 5 to 40,000. Is it the cartridge body/generator or is it the cantilever/stylus?

Both! It's how they are working together.
Once i replaced styli between high and low inductance generators, the stylus from high inductance and high output Stanton does not sound good on low inductance and low output Stanton. It was a total mismatch! 
So when you swap the styli it is not that easy if the generator and stylus are not designed to work together and not tuned by the manufacturer for each other.  

Thanks for the explanation Chakster.  Thankfully it appears there is no noticeable mismatch with the 150 on the 180 body. I'm sure I would hear it if there was. 

Can I ask what the effective mass of the Victor UA 7045 tonearm is and does it allow for damping. Reason for asking is to determine whether this cart would be better on my 10g Audiomods arm than it is on my 19g Yamaha GT2000 arm. 

Thanks 

ateal, what has the effective mass of the Victor UA 7045 to do

with the question if Audiomods arm is better than Yamaha?

I owned this Victor 7045 and think that  if you own this arm you

don't need to search further.

The question is to determine which of my arms is more compatible with the cart. I am not looking to compare with the victor arm. 
Victor UA-7045 is superb tonearm, i like everything about this arm and i have many tonearms to compare, i think this is the most underrated tonearm ever (which is good for the buyers). It was top of the line Victor tonearm for their TT-101 turntable and X-1 / X-1II cartridges for a perfect match with Victor headshell. I use Grace HS-6 Carbon-Fiber headshell with my AT-ML180 now. I don't kno any better tonearm for the price of Victor UA-7045 (they are under $700 in perfect condition, those with bended counterweight must be avoided). There is an additional counterweight to use with heavier cartridges, but i don't use MC carts on this tonearm. I have a spare of this tonearm btw. 

The compliance of the Victor X-1II: 
*Dynamic Compliance (@100Hz): 12cu
At 10Hz this dynamic compliance would be about 20cu 

The compliance of the AT-ML150-170-180:
*Dynamic Compliance (@100Hz): 10cu
At 10Hz this dynamic compliance would be about 17-20cu.   

(*100Hz figure must be converted to 10Hz figure, the easiest way is to multiply it on 1.7 or on 2)

P.S. I know people use Audiomods Arm mostly for low compliance Denon 103 and some other MC cartridges. The Audiomods is actually a modified Rega tonearm. But since the AT-ML180 is not a high compliance cartridge i think you can use it on Audiomods. 


There is another great Audio-Technica cartridge you may considering. It's AT20SLa from the late 70's. This model with beryllium cantilever is a killer. The compliance is higher than AT-ML series. I've come across Dlaloum statement about that old model. Raul also reviewd it back in the day on audiogon. Model AT20SLa LIMITED EDITION cartridges are individually nand-selected for all parameters, including flattest possible response to 50 000 Hz! The limited quantity of cartridges thus obtained represent "the best of the best!"

"This is a really top notch cartridge, one of the very best, and was a competitor to the V15V in its day... It is a high compliance design... VERY highly recommended!! Original styli are getting scarce. This cartridge ranks up there as one of my absolute favourites".  -Dlaloum
 
Dear @ateal: Forgeret what @chakster is telling about the so very low differences in the inductance on the 150 vs 180, this is not what makes the differences in performance. The 150 stylus replacement you have is similar as the 170 and difference with the 180 other than the stylus tip ( non significant ) size is the cantilever but boron and beryllium are very good.

Before you decide to send the cartridge to Vdh ask to Northwest what I told you, you can’t lost nothing if you do it and I think that could be really inexpensive to do those changes.

In the other side, you have no problem with your 10 grs. tonearm for the 180.

regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.