Amps is a measure of current flow or volume. Voltage is analogous to pressure. Your 20A circuits are capable of supplying more current than your 15A components will draw. Think of this as excess supply. This is a good thing.
If you had 240 volts, with 120v components, that would be another story because voltage is pressure, then you would have a problem. As it is you have no problem whatsoever. |
Hello.
20 Amp circuits are often used in homes with 15A components/outlets. Perfectly "legal." The idea is that you can therefore run more components on one circuit.
Imagine you have 4 x 5A devices. A 20A circuit will let you run all of them at once.
However, if you do in fact have a 20A circuit, with a 20/15A plug (has one pin shaped like a T) you can run higher wattage power conditioners.
Not much of a gain in my mind, but there you go.
Best,
E
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Your home is actually wired better than most average homes today. Not only is it not an issue, but consider it an upgrade.
This is assuming that those 20A circuits are actually wired with 12 gauge wire. Contrary to what Erik says above, it’s a definite step up. Most homes today use 14 gauge wire and 15 amp breakers everywhere that they can, it’s cheaper. There are a few dedicated circuits that are required by code to be 20A, and all of the lighting, and most of the outlets are usually 15A.
Your plugs should fit in the outlets fine. If they're 20A outlets, they're stiffer.
If anything you see concerns you, call an electrician to have a look, you’ll be out the cost of a service call.
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I totally agree with builder3. If you read any of the Forums that talk about running dedicated lines and circuit breakers they are talking about 12 or 10 gauge wire and one or more 20 amp circuit breakers and that’s a good thing. Although you didn’t ask and giving you some settle in time and get use to the new house I’d recommend the installation of an upgraded AC outlet. Here is one for example that is listed on Audiogon. There are many more available which are more costly. https://www.audiogon.com/listings/lis9aj5e-porter-port-porter-port-outlets-cryo-various-colors-ac-di...Notice the above picture in ad is for a 20 amp outlet which you see the T that Erik was referring to in his post. This outlet can be used with a 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker. |
A properly functioning electrical component will only draw what it needs. That is why you can plug in a 7 watt nightlight (that only draws about 65 milliamps) into a 15-20-or even higher amp plug.
You only get in trouble when you start to plug in too much and it draws more amps than the supply lines / breaker can supply. That's when the fuse blows.
20 amp lines are always better than 15.
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Thanks to everyone who’s posted. Seems like I’ve got a nice, unexpected bonus in terms of power supply. I’m unable to get my Audioquest Storm plugs to fit into to outlet but I’ve also got a Blizzard which seems to squeeze in ok. Everything sounding very good. I might think about upgrading the outlet - should I put another 20 amp type or a 15 amp? Many thanks for tips.
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My wife and I have just moved to a new house As in a brand new constructed house? First the 20 amp outlets may be spec grade. As a rule spec grade outlets will have beefier contacts than cheapo residential grade outlets. The spec grade contacts holding contact pressure will be greater requiring more effort in pushing the plug in and pulling it out of the outlet than the cheapo residential grade. Second there is a good chance the outlet is a TR (Tamper Resistant) type outlet. Some can be a pain in the you know what to plug anything into. TR outlets have shutters that cover the hot and neutral contacts to help prevent young children from sticking metal objects into the hot contact of the outlet. If the outlet is a TR outlet you need to make sure you push the plug blades in as perpendicular to the contact shutters as possible. Both plug blades pushing evenly against the shutters at the same time. Example of a 20 amp TR duplex receptacle outlet. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-20-Amp-Commercial-Grade-Tamper-Resistant-Backwired-Self-Groundin... Note the shutters. |
Thanks, jea48. I forgot about those a-curse-ed Tamper Resistant outlets.
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If there are two people who's advice I would take on electrical matters, it is Almarg and Jea48
Bob |
The poster did not say that this circuit in the room was dedicated or not. If it’s dedicated, perfect. If it’s shared, you need to find out what else is on the circuit because if there are refrigerators or other constant running devices on it, you might want to use another circuit
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It sounds like a newish home. The fridge will be a dedicated circuit, per code. Same with a microwave, d/w, freezer, etc.
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Is the wiring 1,5 mm2 by 220-240v: use 15-16 amps, is the thickness:2,5mm2 use 20 amps |
Is the wiring 1,5 mm2 by 220-240v: use 15-16 amps, is the thickness:2,5mm2 use 20 amps |
OP; buy a 20 amp outlet, such as the one in the link I posted above.
It's a very good outlet that has been cryogenically treated the correct way.
I believe that outlet will sound better than the identical outlet that was not cryogenically treated. The only exception to what I just said would be if you wanted to purchase a different audiophile-grade outlet that costs significantly more. |
@lak Yes I think it makes sense to upgrade the outlet. I did this in my old house and was surprised at how much SQ difference it made. Taking your advice I put in another 20 amp outlet.
The house is not new but was fairly recently rewired. I believe the previous owners operated some kind of small business in the house - which accounts for large number of outlets, 20 amp circuits and pro-grade network installation.
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Most people will only give you an opinion on what to do. Everyone has an opinion. Few are technically correct, some may be compliant to code, but compliance isn’t the same thing as the safest and best-performing solution. Many are mis-informed and can lead you to an dangerous installation which could result in an electrical fire.
The most dangerous thing to do is something that you don’t understand yourself. Get an electrical contractor with at least two good references that is licensed to do residential electrical work by the electrical safety authority in your area. They should be competent in their job, and capable of advising your with the safest and best performing options for what you want to do. |
The house is not new but was fairly recently rewired. @janehamble If the rewire was done after 2009 there is a good chance the governing AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction) adopted the 2008 NEC section in the code requiring TR outlets in habitual areas in a dwelling unit. Is the duplex receptacle a TR outlet? . |
Yes all the duplex outlets are TR |
@sleepwalker. Sound advice - thank you. |
When I was a college student summer electrician, I discovered that most household circuits, at least then, were 15 amps, meaning that number 14 wire is used on a circuit that will trip at a continuous 75% of the rating (12 amps). A 20 amp circuit uses number 12 wire, and trips at (75% of 20) 15 amps. This is for all the outlets on that circuit, combined. Kitchen, bathroom, garage, and outdoor circuits are 20 amp. The electrical code may have changed, but your wiring is better than what used to be the norm. The actual outlets are different, but not for the fitment of the plug. You apparently used one that had not worn, from disuse. Absolutely nothing different can happen from using a 20 instead of a 15, except it will take more stuff to trip the breaker, including when you put a bobby pin into the outlet in an attempt to electrocute yourself.
I use a 30 amp, 10 gauge wire, dedicated circuit, because it was how I had wired my washer, and my electronics are now in the ex-laundry room. I did not want any power surges to ever get in the way of the sound. My two dual mono amps can put out as much as 1600 watts rms, full frequency (at 2 ohms), and I think it makes a difference. Of course, placebos can be wonderful. |
