Moving to separates

Generally it’s all about cost. A $10k integrated is going to beat a $3k separates. If you are going from a cheap integrated to a mid level separates then you’re on the right track. However, you could also consider a mid or high level integrated as well. Nowadays there are many good integrateds from various companies available for you to choose from. Gryphon, Vitus, Pass Labs, etc. and the list goes on.

Not all watts are created equal, and all certainly don’t sound the same. Most AVRs are sort of a jack of all trades, packed with conveniences, functions, and inputs, with high watt ratings, but not necessarily focused on best audio.

Not all separates are a best effort from the manufacturer, but many are, and typically have the lion’s share of advantages over an AVR. Each separate unit has it’s own power supply, which can be fairly significant, and many tend to use superior parts and design, and often have a more refined sound as a result. The physical separation into it’s own chassis can also help improve sound. Separates also offer more flexibility with matching to another separate amp or preamp...it adds another set of interconnect cables and cost to the equation, but can actually help find tune your preferred sound.

Regardless of the wattage rating, all the separate amps I’ve owned were simply capable of doing a better job of driving the reactive load that a loudspeaker poses, and some speakers pose a tougher load than others. Many cheaper amps in AVRs and receivers are rated by driving a test resistor, not a speaker, and aren’t at their best when pushed hard or challenged by a tough load. (My separate amps have been - Hafler DH500, New York Audio Labs Moscode 300, Discrete Technology LS-2, Mitsubishi DA-A30, Stromberg Carlson ASR-120, Dynaco 70, and now twin modified Dynaco 70s with VTA boards biamped, driven with a Lazarus tube preamp).

An audio buddy of mine recently switched from a big Onkyo Integra receiver to a Linn LK85 with a Schitt Saga 2 preamp, and was astounded at how much better the Linn amp and Schitt preamp sounded. He’s now a convert. Sometimes it’s just synergy between components, but in general I think you’ll find separates to be a step up. If you get a separate amp, you may find that adding a separate preamp down the road sounds better too.

My current system is two channel combined with surround sound via my preamp’s HT bypass. I use a Jeff Rowland Corus preamp for my 2-channel and Trinnov Altitude 16 AV preamp. Out of curiosity I took the Corus out and only used the Trinnov. The soundstage shrunk, less detail, and I thought I lost some musicality. Not night and day differences, but enough differences that I could never use the Trinnov as my 2-channel preamp. Some believe the preamp is the heart of a system.

I made the jump years ago by going from an AVR to an amp driven the AVR, then to a combo dac/preamp which bypassed the avr entirely, then to a pre and dac separates.  . My avr was not as good as yours. The biggest gain to be had is getting the avr out of the two channel system entirely (although I still have an AVR for HT use and use the external amps and speakers for HT, but the AVR/TV is off for two channel listening). The DAC and pre in the AVR are good, but not as good as well selected separates. Several small steps result in a big step. Honestly, you really need to try it and see how it sounds to your ears on your speakers.

BTW, I admire your room treatment and the effort you put in to improve your room before spending on electronics. I need to do a better job at that.