Do you think driver “break in” is real?

I know I'm the minority, but I think break-in for almost all audio products is non-existent! It's your hearing that is changing and adjust to the new sound, NOT the stereo components! The whole BREAK IN thing is mostly complete nonsense!

@willywonka

"I know I’m the minority, but I think break-in for almost all audio products is non-existent! It’s your hearing that is changing and adjust to the new sound, NOT the stereo components! The whole BREAK IN thing is mostly complete nonsense!"

You really don’t think that the physical parts of a moving speaker benefit from repeated flexing early on to loosen them up? That’s measurable and objective...most speaker builders will tell you that woofers won’t reach final tuning specs until the woofer suspension breaks in. Remember when you got a new leather baseball glove, and it needed to be broken in to make it comfortable and easy to open and close? Not so different with woofers. Each situation is unique, and how much of a difference a person notices is tougher to predict, but the basic woofer parts need a good stretch to achieve their expected performance.

Yes especially large woofers but even crossover parts & wiring at least in my own experience.

I'm convinced it's real based on the mechanical explanations I've heard.

In my own experience, it's hard to tell because simultaneously while drivers are breaking in, my hearing is accommodating to new sounds. Where the adjustment in my ears lets off and the adjustment in the drivers begins is very very hard to tell. There's no control on this experiment and auditory memory is weak for detail.

I have rebuilt Xovers many times each capacitor sounds different 

foils are normally better then typical poly sprayed particle conductors

go to humble homemade hifi capacitor test 

Duelunds copper foil oiled paper being the finest ,and can take up to 4-500 hours or more to fully runin ,, resistors  path Audio are far better-then the typical ceramic type.sonically and accuracy , inductors copper foil for tweeters midrange are far better then these cheap sledge hammer wire over a iron core ,for bass a big awg 12 or 14 guage open copper core are preferred , all these parts are much more expensive but dramatically increase imaging soundstaging and musicality.

as far as drivers absolutely mechanically the surrounds have to loosen up the wire has to stabilize as well as other mechanical parts of the drivers ,I give it at least 200 hours playing at increased volume levels , I use Isotek excellent runin cd ,and track 3 tune up track for years. I have over 20 years at this and owned a Audio store for a decade.