Driver Tubes 6922


I've heard a few people opining that the driver tube can be the most important tube.

Why is this?

What do you look for in a 6922?

What differences might I expect to hear replacing my modern GL e88cc with an expensive NOS 6922?

Any recommendations for a 6922  based on actual experience?

 

Thanks

 

TD

 

128x128tonydennison

I bought a tube tester last year and it was an eye opener.   Most tubes I got from trusted dealers were as advertised but I had a number of tubes that were duds. 

Mismatched triodes, weak,  also had a bad 5r4gy (shorted) that would have damaged my new 300b amp.    That tester paid for itself that day.  

My reasoning to buy it was because I was starting to play with antique tubes like 300b and 274b / 5r4gy  types .    That amp also uses e180f  which is only available as NOS or used.    Fortunately that tube and it's variants are easy to find NOS but I want peace of mind before using ANY tube.    That said, even brand new tubes get tested before going in any of my gear 

 

OK,

 

I have been in contact with Brent and I trust he is a professional. I tried the tap fix for flake and it did not change anything. I will try that one more time.

 

And my 6922's are GL's.

Next time Im at the cabin, Im going to visit this junk yard up there and look for tubes :-)

 

T

Tony, There are a lot of tubes sold on ebay as NOS that aren’t There are a lot of lightly used tubes that still test above average new.

Without going too far into the weeds, tubes are usually tested for transconductance to determine how long they will last and to match them. Tube testers, Hickok is the most common brand, come with a scroll that tells you what the average transconductance is for a new 12AT7 tested on that machine.

Nobody has kept track of which tubes have been used and which haven’t. So if a tube tests above average new and the glass and pins look clean, many sellers will sell it as NOS. Others will sell it as "tests above new" but not call it NOS. There have been discussions about how to categorize old tubes that test above new but probably have some use as ANOS, i.e. almost new old stock., but that never got anywhere.

Tube dealers like Brent Jessee or Vintage Tube Services (Andy Bouwman) use more sophisticated testers than the Hickoks I mentioned above, although Hickok did make lab grade testers which are much more precise than the more common Hickok 600s or whatever.

Even with all the uncertainty, many people still feel it is worth it to buy vintage tubes because they had the same experience you did. They like the sound better. There is a LOT to know about vintage tubes, so you’re better off dealing with someone like Brent or Andy than trying to learn it all yourself.

I read about a test someone did on the web, that had several calibrated Hickok testers and got a different reading from ever one of them.

Those testers are 60 plus years old so I'm not expecting true accuracy.   I want to test for shorts first and foremost.    That's what will damage your gear.  

Tomcy6, you are dead on.  No one tracked the tubes that were in those caddies.   Repairmen had tons of tubes on hand.   It was common practice for a tech to replace all tubes ,  that way much less chance of a return call.   What happened to the tubes that were pulled?  They went back in someones caddy and the bad tube was tossed.  

My tester is within 50 microhmos of a 6L6 and 12ax7 that were tested on an Amplitrex so that's good enough for me.