Extra power or cleaner power?


I'm putting a system together and am thinking through some of the factors which might contribute to the overall sound quality. I realize that testing things out as I go is the best way, so I'm asking this question not to get advice about what to do next but to understand how folks understand and weigh these factors.

Let's start with a predicted factor -- the speakers. From the speaker description:

Anticipated speakers: Salk SS 6M
Response +/- 3db — 35Hz - 40kHz
Sensitivity — 90 db
Impedance — 8 ohms
Amplification — 50 watts (or 30wpc, tube amp)
Alignment — Front slot port
Dimensions — 9 W x 20 H x 14 D

Some (atma-sphere, decooney) have suggested on this forum that even a 60 wpc tube would be great for these speakers. So, here's my question —

Assume that I could get a very good 40 wpc tube amp to drive these speakers to sufficient listening levels (85 db at about 10 feet), for my kind of music (jazz, classical), and peaks in my (400 sq ft) listening space.

With these assumptions, the question becomes one of priorities. I could either spend additional dollars to (a) buy a more powerful amp or (b) spend that money on a power regenerator. Also assume that if I do *not* buy a regenerator, I'd still do *something* to improve the power (some kind of improvement but much less expense).

The question is: with those assumptions, what do you think would add more to the sound quality? More power or cleaner power?

Perhaps this is an impossible theoretical question to answer. If so, I'd like to know that, too!

Thanks!
128x128hilde45
Exactly. hilde45 also shared in another thread - he’s starting in a smaller room vs. future larger room (maybe), and this is where less vs. more power topic came up too relative to people asking about power and room size relative to his selected 90db efficiency speakers.
I should add that my conditioning consists of a PS Audio Ultimate Outlet (a Balun transformer) an IEC input and using a PS Audio dual outlet. To this I use two Emotiva cmX2 filtering strips that provide filtering and DC offset blockage. This conditioning system is used for digital components only, one X2 for transport and DAC and one for DVD player and TV,  and is on it's own dedicated line. My amplifier and preamplifier are each on their own dedicated line, sans conditioning. Total cost for the three conditioning units and three power cords costs ~$500 ( all bought used except one X2 at $129. 

I would suggest that one would do well starting with using a single X2 for digital. 
Clean efficient power IMHO is better, than an abundance of power. Most components only operate at a fraction of what they were designed to do because they do not have a good power delivery system.  Ideally one should be prepared to look towards their power delivery representing  25-30% of the total MRSP value of their system. That is all in with Power Chords, Conditioner and or Distributor. That does not mean that they would have to actually spend that amount. Especially if they are taking advantage of sourcing through a Used market. 
There are currently good deals running on Agon right now for Conditioners and Power Chords, under 2K - which would enhance any system. 

Good Luck
Post removed 
Just following up on my own, earlier thread.
I now have my amps — Quicksilver Mono 60s'.
Because my gear is located near an outlet with just two plugs, I have acquired a used $500 Panamax Max 1500 conditioner/surge protector (10 outlets), 1800 Watt. It offers a sufficient number of plugs. Everything is plugged into it. (Details: www.cnet.com/products/panamax-max-1500-allpath-surge-protector-1800-watt)

So, thinking ahead a little bit —
  • I plan to run a dedicated line at some point.
  • After the line is run — how should the line terminate — for the gear?
  • Into multiple outlets and I plug my gear directly into the multiple outlets?
  • Into a hospital grade-outlet and then…my power conditioner for the sources? For everything?
  • Into a regenerator? (I see there's a predominance of opinion here that regenerators are not worth it, so I'll likely skip it.)
In other words, if I am to engage an electrician at some point, I need to tell him/her what I want.

Of course, the first thing I'll do is get the dedicated line and then try my existing Panamax to see if there's a difference or problem.

P.S. I do see many suggestions above which might answer some of my questions, but I'm having trouble synthesizing the specific gear recommendations with a plan for the dedicated line.