Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
Ag insider logo xs@2xrauliruegas
Hi Raul,

At the same post on SNA, I have post another picture to show ** it's a 4000DIII ** on No.7 reply.

I think my 4000DIII have a after market stylus because it's a second hand, I got no choice. But I really fall in love with this Gold, another taste as the M20FL, both are very good MM.

Thank you very much for your information about the MM cartridge. I have save alot of money because the MM.

Best regards,
Ray
Hi Raul,

I have an Empire 2000E IV in my collection of MM cartridges which I think is a very good performer. Have you tried it and compared to the 4000D mk3?
Dear Montepilot: I have Empire ad too and the original 4000DIII where appears in the way you say along that " curl " logo below the Empire name.

Now, the five stylus replacement on the 4000 and 1000 Empire cartridges I own, that are Original ones, all comes with the name EMPIRE in this way and not with what is the Empire " signature " of the brand. All this happen with these Empire " old " cartridge models/series because with its " latest " and other cartridge series the name is the Empire signature brand one.
Btw, this one is Original:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Original-EMPIRE-S-D4000-III-QUADRA-tip-phono-stylus-NOS-/190413464974?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c5586e58e#ht_721wt_1137

The Ortofon's M20 that I own comes with gold body color. If I remember in this thread we agree that the cartridge performance is the same in either cartridge body color.

Regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.
Dear Ozrayyau: I see that picture and now I know that that cartridges comes with the model name too. Thank you.

Regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.
Dear Kcc123: No, I don't own any 2000 series cartridge.

regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.
Now you guys are making me nervous. The supposed NOS Empire "X" stylus assembly that I bought for my NOS Empire 1000ZE cartridge, per the advice of a few on this forum, does not have any "EMPIRE" inscription. In fact the facing where the label would go is completely absent; there is an open space instead. Any thoughts appreciated.

I would also add that the Empire 4000DIII that I bought is a "Gold" type. The owner had 3 of them and was very reluctant to let even one of them go. He is a long time audiophile and is completely besotted by the 4000DIII Gold. So, even if it is different from the 4000DIII without the "Gold" appellation, it was held in very high esteem by the previous owner. We shall see.
Raul and others,

I got my Empire 4000D/111 sometime around 1990 and it came in a turntable that I bought.

The stylus guard is attached to the cartridge body via a brass hinge assembly and there are there are dark spots on each side of the stylus assembly that appear to be round brass hinge pins.
EMPIRE is in very small letters on the flat plastic piece of the stylus guard. The top of the lettering is white and there is a gold background so that EMPIRE is in a gold colored rectangle. Under EMPIRE there is the round logo seen on old original Empire stylus assemblies like that of my Empire 1000 stylus assembly.

Sometime prior to 1998 I tried the 4000 and I thought it had potential so I looked for a replacement stylus assembly before they were no longer available and I stumbled across Ed Saunders who said he had an original 4000D/111 stylus for something like $27 and I bought it.

This was before analog and LP's were catching on again so strongly so prices were still reasonable. When I asked Ed a few years later about another stylus it was $87 and I said forget it. But now that's a deal.

The stylus I received looks like the one that the Bluz Bros is selling. The "R" in EMPIRE is reversed and it runs into the E plus there is the verticsl line under EMPIRE.

As far as color goes I'd have to say that both are snow white.
Hello All,

I've purchased several Empire cartridges that have the original stylus. After all the discussion about getting original stylus I've grown concerned about my plans of having mine re-tipped. I would think that this would be the logical solution to extending the life of my cartridges. Do you think this will affect the cartridges performance?

Sincerely,
Dear Lewm: IMO your NOS stylus replacement for your Empire could not be a true NOS but an after market one.

I own several Empire cartridges and, one way or the other, in all the Empire name always appear.

About the 4000DIII Gold that you own I think in similar way: different from the 4000DIII and very good performer.

Regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.
Raul, if I may:
Raul said: "Dear friends: As time goes passing the good MM/MI vintage cartridge opportunities goes ( faster that I wish. ) down/less and less, especially in NOS status/condition."

There is still an availability of genuine NOS Acutex stylii for the LPM 3XX-111 series, TurntableNeedles or 33audio.com. Both sites offer downloads of various Acutex catalogs for identification.

Mark at 33audio indicates his small supply is nearly exhausted and he presently has only several each of the LPM 312-111STR/315-111STR/320-111STR stylii. Those who may be interested should be aware the "M" and "LPM" designs are not the same. Stylii upgrades are possible within the separate series but not between them. The Acutex cartridge, usually as a LPM 310-111E(elliptical), was supplied on Pioneer, Akai, Hitachi, Fischer and other turntables in the 'seventies and is routinely offered on ebay, listings frequently use the turntable mfr's designation.

For those seeking Empire replacement stylii or wishing to conserve their originals, JICO offers most Empire models in elliptical, HE, Shibata and SAS configurations.

I hope this may be of assistance.
Dear Raul, I bought from the vendor recommended by you and others here (in fact the URL for the source was posted here), and the stylus was not cheap, and the vendor himself swore the product was NOS. So if you are correct, he will be hearing from me, and he will eat the thing. (Was not BluzBroz.)
Whoops! I take it all back. The name EMPIRE is indeed engraved on the facing. It is stylus 236ZDE from Garage-a-Records. I did not see it when I first received the product and thought it was ok not to see it, until this latest discussion. Please forgive the misunderstanding. It is late, and I am tired.
Dear Lewm: Yes, now that you mentioned I can remember that yours was the last one the seller had at that time.

regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.
While I realize my question,"Do you think this will affect the cartridges performance?" wasn't stated well I would still appreciate comments clarifying what I might expect as far as differences from a Soundsmith re-tip as an example.

Sincerely,
Dear Drewmbl: +++++ " plans of having mine re-tipped. I would think that this would be the logical solution to extending the life of my cartridges. Do you think this will affect the cartridges performance? " +++++

IMHO I don't think there is only one an absolute right answer about. Each one of us maybe have different experiences on the subject, so I will speak on mines:

first " thing " that I would like to take in count here is if the cartridge is one of my top performers or if the cartridge is a " so-so " one, in this case I go for the re-tip to any re-tipped source.
But if the cartridge is the 4000DIII then I will try to find the original stylus replacement and if this can't happen then I send to VdH asking for the stylus re-tip only ( with out cantilever change ) if this is possible.

With top cartridge performers what I want is to preserve its " original " quality performance. I don't want to change it even if the retipped source people tell me that " with this ruby cantilever will be a huge improvement ": I don't want that " huge improvement ". I could try that " huge improvement " if I have two cartridge samples and I'm not sure about because many times that " improvement " it is not but only something different.

I have experiences about through SS and VdH and I have no single doubt: VdH is my choice.

Regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.
Raul, Have you (or has anyone) tried the "Expert" stylus repair service in the UK? (The name consists of two words; the first word is "expert".) That business is said to be the supplier to SoundSmith for their ruby cantilevers, but they have a proprietary stylus that is said to be excellent.
Dear Dgarretson: +++++ " cable with a straight shot from cartridge to phono stage. This eliminated seven solder and mechanical joints all down the line. The improvement is greater than all the differences between the various cartridges that I've tried. " +++++

agree with you, a huge improvement with seven " filters/veils " less where the highly sensitive/delicate cartridge signal must pass.
We have to remember that the cartridge signal " travel " to the end phono stage with out amplification and this make it more easy to contaminate/degrade over that " trip ".

I always said that we have try to lower distortions ( any kind ) in the audio system chain to improve the system quality performance and that mod ( straight wire to phono stage ) permit to preserve the cartridge signal with lower distortions.
I have no doubt about: worth to try it!

Regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.
Raul, regarding your point of agreement on eliminating the "seven filters/veils", I still sometimes wonder about detachable headshells and their additional connections. I know you favor them to allow "fine tuning" for mass and resonance in matching cartridges with given tonearms. But when you described your recommendation to eliminate the extra connections with a standard P-mount cartridge adaptor with direct connection to the cartridge pins and the benefits you heard in doing so I began thinking about the headshells again.

So I'm wondering about a possible solution when rewiring an arm. Carefully drilling a hole on the underside of the arm, just before the locking ring, could accommodate an extension of an additional length of the continuous wire. The wire could then pass underneath the headshell/tonearm joint to reach the cartridge pins. If done carefully this could preserve the advantages of a continuous wire (cartridge pins to tonearm wire RCA/XLR plug) while maintaining the advantages of the interchangeable headshell.
The improvement with the straight-shot wiring spun my head around and leads me question how we perceive the differences between cartridges and tonearms. It's tempting to think about cartridges primarily as signal generators of varying mechanical ability. Similarly we tend to think of tonearms mostly in terms of geometry and mechanics and not as electrical devices. Tonearm wire is usually accepted a priori without much reflection. Tain't so.
Tim,
Raul has already done something like that, in a more brute force way. I also know of several folks who have drilled thru the tonearm/headshell connector so as to allow the wiring to go straight thru, thereby eliminating that junction. (Of course, in the process of doing that, you ought to re-wire the whole tonearm from cartridge to preamp.) I am going to try one or the other or both approaches.

In truth, though, with these high output cartridges and if one uses a very good quality contact enhancer after carefully cleaning the contacts to remove oxidation, it is my impression that very little is lost. (This is a position once held by Raul, if I recall correctly.) With MC cartridges, the bypass or elimination of all mechanical contacts is far more beneficial, IME.
"It's tempting to think about cartridges primarily as signal generators of varying mechanical ability. Similarly we tend to think of tonearms mostly in terms of geometry and mechanics and not as electrical devices. Tonearm wire is usually accepted a priori without much reflection. Tain't so."-Dgarretson

Having rewired my ET2 three times over the years, I could not agree with Dgarretson's comment more. Since the first time I rewired the arm, I have used one continuous run of wire from cartridge clips to phono preamp; sometimes hardwired to the preamp's board. The first time I did this, the results were nothing short of revelatory. The elimination of several solder joints, or mechanical "bumps in the road" for the cartridges' signal path were fantastic; greater, in positive ways, than any cartridge change I had made up to that time. The improvements in clarity and refinement allowed the differences in the sound of various catridges to be much more obvious, and made the effects of the set-up of these cartridges much more obvious, and important.

The wire harness is always used externally, so no modification of the arm is required. I have done the same thing with my pivoting Syrinx PU3, which I use occasionally, using the same wire harness used with the ET2. The Syrinx's internal wiring remains intact (and not used), and the new wire harness is run along the outside of the arm's tube along the bottom of the tube, with a loop of wire (as with the ET2) over the arm's pillar. The wire is shielded from that point on, to the phono amp.

I have used Vandenhul, Cardas, Discovery, and currently, Audionote, which is IMO the best by far. But this is a different discussion. But I will say that I have always been surprised that considering the legths that many of us go to with tonearm/cartridge set-up, that this tweak is not tried more often.
Frogman, Your wiring system is pretty much what I had in mind as the quick and dirty way to achieve "direct coupling". I believe that is what Raul is doing, too. Have you, or has anyone, tried the silver "Ikeda" wire that one can purchase from an eBay vendor (in quotes, because I am dubious regarding the provenance)? I am tempted, but the price is high. What is your source for "Audionote" wire?

My Triplanar is and always has been direct-coupled using Cardas 33ga wire. I stood and watched as Herb Papier (creator of the Triplanar) installed it for me in his basement. In his hands, this took about 5 minutes. In my hands, it would have taken an hour, AND I would have damaged the fragile wires in the process. IMO, this (direct coupling) is one reason why the Triplanar sounds so good compared to other tonearms that use one or more gizmos in the signal path.
Lewm, I have not tried the "Ikeda" wire you refer to, and know nothing about it; sorry. My source for Audionote wire was Audio Federation in Boulder, CO. I always dealt with Neli, and she was a pleasure to deal with. The cost of 1.5 meters of wire, terminated with AN clips, and tinned at the preamp end was $290 delivered. Less expensive without termination. I cannot recommend this wire enough, it is fantastic. I will say, that it is extremely thin, but not particularly fragile. The pricing, as stated in the AN website, is a little confusing. Each run of wire consists of three individualy insulated, braided strands. What AN now provides, for the same cost, is the above mentioned X2. IOW, six strands per run. To give you an idea of how thin this wire is, the net result of the six strands is still considerably thinner than the Cardas.
AN wire would be copper, I presume. Not that there is anything wrong with that.
No, AN wire is pure silver. In my experience, the beauty of the AN wire is that it has the clarity, and openness that silver can have, with beautiful refinement, and total absence of glare. The silver VDH wire that was original in my ET2 was harsh sounding by comparison. The AN wire has been, along with the motor controller for my TT, the single most significant improvement I have made to my analog set-up. Of course, the respective improvements are of a different nature. I can't recommend it enough.
Hi Lewm,
Re "if one uses a very good quality contact enhancer after carefully cleaning the contacts to remove oxidation",
are you able to discuss any products that have worked for you out of the plethora of products out there?

Would be helpful for those of us that can't or won't run one string of wire direct.

Many thanks from Alex L
Alex, I did not do a survey, but for what it's worth, I use ProGold to clean contacts and Walker SST Extreme as an enhancer IF the contacts are not going to get hot, as in a phono system. For tube pins that do get hot, I also use ProGold enhancer. There is no doubt in my mind that the Walker stuff (and perhaps other products like it, because I have done no meta-comparisons) really works great. The difference is immediately audible. One display of its effectiveness is irrelevant to audio; we had a bad contact on a 15W bulb in our chandelier. The bulb was constantly going off due to being loosened by vibrations from footsteps. I put a dab of the Walker on the threads and on the contact point, and that bulb has never even winked since.
Hi Guys,

When running an external wire on the tonearm, how do you handle the grounding wire? Do you just have the typical ground wire (the fifth wire) just attached to the tonearm body or shoudl we have a shield around the 4 cartrigde wiures running anlong the length of the armwand? I need a balanced XLR connection for my phono so grounding is important in my system. Any thoughts? Also has anyone found cartridge laeds that would fit the pin size of the P-Mount cartridges?
When using MC's, I have never had any issues with grounding noise of any kind using the wire without any shielding. With MM's it gets trickier, and grounding noise can be a real problem. I solved it this way:

The positive and negative runs of wire for each channel are twisted together for their entire length. The twisted runs then run "naked" from cartridge clips to just beyond the point where the wires make a loop over the arm pillar. From that point onward, each twisted pair of wires (+-) runs through a length of teflon tubing for the remaining length of wire. The teflon tubing is covered in copper mesh for shielding. To the preamp end of the copper mesh is soldered a six inch length of copper wire, with a clip at it's end. The copper mesh is covered with polyester mesh to insulated it. The clips at the ends of the wire harness get attached to the preamp's grounding post. Every system has different grounding requirements, and experimentation is the key. In my system, the above arrangement works great.
Ddriveman, In the case of the Trans-Fi harness, each teflon-clad 4N silver filament has a 30awg 4N silver mesh jacket. Single-ended requires two wires, with filament cores carrying positive phase for each channel and the jackets carrying negative phase tied to ground. XLR involves four four filaments and four discrete mesh jackets that float at the cartridge pins and are grounded at XLR. In addition, there is a fifth copper tonearm wire that runs from the cartridge bolt. Lots of tiny conductors that when properly dressed do not foul the arm! So far this approach has gotten rid of all hum.
Ddriveman, Bulgin gold/copper socket SR3179/1 (Digikey pn 708-1095-ND) fits directly on the p-mount pin. The arse end of this socket solders to tonearm wire or serves as male into a std. cartridge clip.
I have ordered a KAB Technics 1200 MKII table with the Technics arm and the tonearm fluid damper modification. I have an usued Azden YM-P50VL cartridge. I wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts on whether the Azden cartridge would be a good fit for the Technics arm and headshell,and if so, if I should replace the Technics headshell with a different headshell. Thanks
Ddriveman, I suppose you get the point by now that the cartridge per se "floats" in almost all cases, meaning the cartridge is not grounded. That is why a cartridge is an inherently balanced device; there is signal at each end. (In a single-ended phono stage, one side of the cartridge is defined as "ground" by the labels on the cartridge body and the orientation of the RCA jack.) So, the only thing you have to be concerned about is grounding of the tonearm body and/or the turntable chassis to your preamp, if indeed that is necessary. (In some cases, it's not.) There are a few cartridges that do have internal grounding; one of the brands that is commonly of that type is Decca. If you don't use a Decca, then most likely no ground is needed.
Lew, In my experience phono hum is typically picked up by exposed unshielded tonearm wires. Using screened tonearm wire and floating the screens at the cartridge end, deals with RF antennae effects associated with exposed wires. A separate physical ground to the cartridge body deals with ground hum issues unrelated to wiring. Some MM cartridges (Empire comes to mind) have a ground tab that connects the cartridge body to the negative pin of one channel. With a balanced phono stage I remove this tab and ground the cartridge body separately to XLR pin 1. I'm not sure whether this rerouting of physical ground of the cartridge body has made a difference, but it makes intuitive sense for XLR balanced operation.

A linear tonearm has more exposed wiring than a pivot arm, and thus may have inherently more problems with RF. Perhaps one reason why physical grounding of a pivot arm can be important is that the (metal) arm can thus acts as a shield that needs to be drained. But in rerouting a wire harness external to tonearm, a good RF shield around the wire is likely important.
Regards, Raul.
On 02-04-10 Dgob wrote:

"Timetel,

Have you ever tried your Black Widow with an ADC XLM Super Mk2 (or other) and, if so, what are/were your impressions? Only I have heard very positive things from friends whose hearing and love of music I deeply trust."

I've developed confidence in ADC magnesium headshells (for EPA-250 TA) and several I've purchaced have come with cartridges. One, an ADC QLM-30 I did not care for. Another, an ADC Q361. Today I cleaned and inspected the Q361's stylus and was pleased to find it a nude elliptical on a tapered cantilever, and in good condition. Sounded pretty good for an elliptical too. Tried, the two stylii were exchangable. Piqued, I searched the internet and find this cartridge body is common to many different models, including the XLM-2's/3's, upgrade avenues are`through the stylus.

TTN.com has NOS ZLM (shibata) stylii to upgrade the cartridge to XLM-111 updated version. Jico offers a SAS version. Several reliable ebay merchants offer "genuine" replacements. That the ADC original is thirty years out of production is a factor. Compounding my dilema is that there are several NIB XLM's currently available, prices are close for any option. One concern is the reputation for failing suspension early XLM's have and another is, of course, performance.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts you (or others) may have, especially in comparing the XLM to cartridges frequently discussed in this thread.
Franklin,
I own Empire 875 XLT (same as Azden P50VL). From what I remember it is a very good match for technics 1200mk2 tonearm. Technics tonearm in average works best with its original headshell.
Dave, You wrote, "In my experience phono hum is typically picked up by exposed unshielded tonearm wires. Using screened tonearm wire and floating the screens at the cartridge end, deals with RF antennae effects associated with exposed wires. A separate physical ground to the cartridge body deals with ground hum issues unrelated to wiring. Some MM cartridges (Empire comes to mind) have a ground tab that connects the cartridge body to the negative pin of one channel. With a balanced phono stage I remove this tab and ground the cartridge body separately to XLR pin 1. I'm not sure whether this rerouting of physical ground of the cartridge body has made a difference, but it makes intuitive sense for XLR balanced operation."

To begin with, hum (meaning a 60Hz or 120Hz tone) and RF are two different phenomena. The former is usually due to lack of grounding or a ground loop. IOW, I don't think shielding or lack of same has anything to do with it, but I am ready to be corrected. Shielding protects against RF, which is mainly high frequency stuff. As to the Empire ground tab, which I have not yet encountered, if it is indeed connected to the pin on the cartridge output that is labeled "ground", then by connecting it to pin 1, you may be losing any advantage of a balanced phono stage. In other words, you convert the cartridge to single-ended output, even though you do have a balanced phono. (I don't know what or whether that tab is connected to.) If you removed the tab and grounded the cartridge in some other way, how did you do it? If you found a metal part of the cartridge body that is NOT part of the mechanism, then I guess you can ground the cartridge body without losing the balanced output. I wish Ralph would read this thread and comment. But perhaps I am re-stating what you meant to say in the first place.
Lew, The ground tab on some Empire and Pickering/Stanton cartridges is a foil that drains the cartridge body to one of the four cartridge pins. Severing this tab does not effect the coil connections. I have only done this with cartridges with all metal bodies and mounting brackets, where it is possible to reroute physical ground through the cartridge bolt.

The hum was associated with room lights and proximity to AC wall wiring, and also sometimes touching or merely approaching the arm or arm wiring. The hum varied somewhat from cartridge to cartridge. The new shielded harness entirely eliminates these effects. The new harness is wired same as the old harness, except for the addition of a shield around each strand that is floated at the cartridge and grounded at XLR.

I could write a very long & dirty limerick about the bedevilment of hum in phono. Suffice to say that it sucks.
Isn't the "hum" from room lights (usually fluorescents IME) at a somewhat higher frequency than that which is usually due purely to bad grounding? I guess it's a sort of EMI, first cousin to RF. Anyway, I take your point. I was just trying to help out Ddriveman.
Franklin, Find out the effective mass of the SL1200 tonearm. For the Azden you ideally want a low effective mass (10-11g or less), which can also be achieved with a lightweight headshell, if the stock one is too heavy. Or ask KAB; they know their stuff. In fact, I need to do the same.
Hi all,

I just acquired a NIB (!!!) Infinity Black Widow MKII tonearm, for use with my much-enjoyed Pickering XSV5000 cart.

Any other carts I should consider if curiosity gets the best of me?

My phono stage is a Bottlehead Eros, slightly higher gain than most MM stages, and MI/MM carts with 4mV or lower output have synergized best with this component.

Your recommendations are greatly appreciated!
Franklin:

Agree with Lewm. The OEM headshell is rigid and resonance resistant, it has stood the test of time. You might however consider magnesium headshells as an alternative.

According to the VinylEngine library, eff. mass for the Mk-11 stock TA is 12gm., including 7.5gm OEM headshell. Cartridge wt. range with headshell is 13.5-17.5gm., you should be "good to go" with your Azden.
Hello, Jb0194.

Sonus Blue, Shure M97xE/HE or any V15, and in quoting a respected other (ref. my post from 07-10-10), an ADC XLM.

In a 1975 issue of "The Speaker", Boston Audio Society members highly recommended both the Sonus and the XLM-1, the B. W. was the suggested tonearm for either. In an upstairs rig, my first model B. W. is on a Tech. SP-25, the current M97xE/JICO SAS stylus is a good match for it, as was a V15-111/SAS.
Thank you, Timeltel.

I do have a V15 type III stored away. I'll look into the JICO, as the Shure stylus has had much use.
Infinity Black Widow should be a great tonearm for these high compliance cartridges (very low effective mass, as far as I remember). Has anyone had actual experience with it? Raul?
Lewm & Dgarretson,

Many thanks for your responses to my post on grounding and external tonearm wiring. I think I know how to proceed now. Also, I have similar experience as pointed out by Dgarretson with "hum" on my AudioCraft AC4000 tonearm. When I touch the arm or approach it closely with my hand, there is a hum (60-120Hz). Thanks to suggestions from Raul, I checked and found out that the ground pin on the DIN socket of the arm has poor/intermittent contact, hence the arm was not grounded. So, this confirms Dgarretson's findings. Getting the arm's wiring fixed now but would also like to see if I can try some external wiring.
Dear friends: For you that are looking for a good Grace cartridge opportunity this one could help:

http://cgi.ebay.com/GRACE-F9-REPLACEMENT-STYLUS-VERY-RARE-/150466694240?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2308838c60#ht_500wt_1154

and for ones that are looking for a good AT cartridge this one is very good and in in NOS condition that's hard to get :
http://cgi.ebay.com/Audio-Technica-AT15SS-/290453398234?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a05f22da#ht_500wt_1154

Regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.
Regards, Lewm: Eff. mass for the B. W. is 3gm, lateral friction 0.01, vert. friction 0.005gm, all measured at the stylus. Strong bass, nice sense of air. Midrange response was uncolored, the B. W. was considered superior to the SME in definition and with it's SME style sliding base was an easy transplant for pre-drilled units, thought of at the time an improvement over the ubiquitous Shure arm.

Largely immune to feedback from acoustic resonance, care with isolation needs to be taken as it can be microphonic to mechanical disturbance.

Knife edge bearings for vertical movement provide excellent tracking on warped discs, all B. W.'s I've seen have about 1 mm of vertical "slop" in the bearing seat. Ball bearings for the horizontal pivot are tight, the arm is easily adjustable for VTA. Capacitance for the supplied patch cord was 50 pF for 1.5 meter, the connection was a straight 5 pin DIN male plug.

First model was an aircraft quality alum. tube, sleeved at about 1/2 it's length to one of larger diameter. The intent was to disrupt the channeling of resonance at both ends, between the pivot and carbon headshell. Later version, "G" or "GF" had the industrys' first graphite fibre arm wand, sections of fishing rods were implemented by some for repair of damaged arms. The GF model also had a damping cup attached to the pivot housing, the paddle was clipped to the wand just ahead of the pivot and was adjustable for depth of immersion. With the right cartridge (certian Empire/Grace models) it can track accurately at 1/2gm VTF. Original wireing was silk wrapped copper of very fine gauge, as they were fragile it is unusual to find one that has not had the arm rewired.

The most popular application was on a Kenwood "500" series TT, the one with the resin/mineral composite plinth, this classic combination is still occasionaly seen.

Introduced at $200.00 and then rising to $400.00, production cost made it uncompetitive and it was discontinued sometime around 1984.

TAS issue #9 reports it was tested with Sonus, Supex, Micro Acoustics and the ADC XLM cartridges with improvement over other radial tracking arms in IGD and negative effects from warp/wow.

Now, about that ADC, no one here has any information to share?
Timeltel,

I can only repear that I have it on the authority of very good friends that the ADC XLM Super Mk2 is an unbelievable marriage with the Black Widow. I've never heard it myself nor owned the BW. I am mindful of the issue of collapsing Super Mk2's though.

On the other hand, I happen to own the ADC XLM Mk2 Imporved and I believe this was designed to overcome the fragility concerns with the Super Mk2. I bought mine new and have only ever played it for around 5 hours. I'll be selling this along with a host of other mm's. If you would be interested in trying this out without making a commitment and before buying anything contact me offline.