Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
rauliruegas

Showing 13 responses by slimpikins5

Believe it or not, there are original NOS stylus' available for the original MM cartridges out there.  I purchased a NOS AT15ss stylus around 12 or so years ago from  reputable dealer in NY, it was exactly the same as my original stylus which came with my AT15ss when I bought it new in 1975.  The beryllium cantilever, stylus body and stylus guard on the original were an exact match with the new one I picked up a few years ago.  That stylus has been serving me well, however I wanted to seek out another NOS AT15ss to have for when the current one wore out as they are becoming very scarce.  I picked one up not long ago from Bluz Bros. for a fair amount of money, but it arrived and was exactly the same in all respects to my two originals; in other words, it was an original NOS AT15ss too.  I installed it and it played wonderfully well.
Raul; believe it or not, I have on hand 4 NOS in the original double packaging Audio Technica AT-20ss stylus'.   One is in my cartridge with under 50 hours on it and the other 3 are stored for the future.

I use the AT20ss with the SME Series IV tone arm on a VPI Ares3 TT feeding my new Gold Note PH10 phono preamp.  I find that for most recordings 47K ohm input with the RIAA enhanced setting works great.  On some recordings where I'd prefer a little warmer sound, I flip the PH10 to the 22K setting.  I have done some experimenting with capacitance settings and I find the 220 pf to 250 pf range works best with my 2.5 foot audio cables.  I understand that many feel the 100K ohm input loading is best with MM, but I suspect it would be far too bright with my AT20ss.

I have been using the AT15ss for decades and now the AT20ss.  Both are the same as far as I can tell; there is no audible difference as they are equally amazing.
Raul,
I have an excellent listening room.  I have 10,000 cubic feet of space, 18 feet high of vaulted ceiling; a pair of Anthem M1 mono block amplifiers at 2000 watts per channel, Bryston Signature series Model T main speakers, three sub woofers, two from Axiom Audio who builds the Bryston's and a Bryston Model T sub.  The TT I mentioned already only I forgot to say that the Ares3 has the super platter. And the lovely SME Series IV arm.   Also my new from a month ago Gold Note PH 10, which  is fabulous. 

All that being said, I have never wanted to change out the AT15ss to a MC as the dynamic range output of the AT15ss is simply hard to imagine being bested by anything made.  I don't listen to classical or jazz, I am 100 percent rock/electronic/funk.... MC types are not really geared towards this type of music, at least from what every audio guy I know says.  I have been on the hunt for a NOS AT20ss stylus for over a decade and I was lucky enough to locate someone who had several; so I bought them all.  I installed the first one, which I am currently using and it's equal to my NOS 15ss, only it's ever so slightly more detailed on the very upper end.  

BTW, my brother has an original AT20ss too.  He bought it decades ago when I bought mine as he was so impressed.  He broke the stylus and has not used it in years.  I may try to buy the body from him.

A close friend of mine was over last weekend, he's into audio too, but on the more limited scale (he's really cheap :) ).    He's never heard my system; so we had cocktails and played a lot of music.  He wanted to hear Sgt. Pepper, so I put it on... a mint original copy I have from decades ago.  He was mesmerized; he said he had never heard music like this; he meant so detailed.  Rick said there were instruments in the various cuts he had never heard before.   I said that is what a fine system can do. 
Just from everything I have read from people who have a lot more experience than I do, the Beryllium was the best material ever used for cantilever's.  According to one individual who worked for Audio Technica, they were unable to reproduce anything which came close to the performance of the Beryllium after its use was banned by the EPA due to the toxicity of the material while manufacturing with it.  

My own direct observations from having the AT15s Universal stylus which is the Shibata diamond mounted on the Aluminum cantilever vs. the AT15ss Super Shibata diamond Beryllium is that there is a huge difference in performance, I mean night and day, not just a slight improvement.  The Beryllium cantilever is far more detailed with a much more expansive mid/upper range with superior sound stage/imaging.


I cannot comment on the other variations of aluminum cantilevers as I have only played with the AT15/20 version, but the difference from Beryllium was so remarkable that I don't really have much interest in it.

Harold, I will bet my bottom dollar that the stylus you picked up from LP gear had been mishandled and that is why the cantilever was off axis. I have an AT15ss with the same problem, but it was totally due to pilot error on my part. I was working around the turntable and inadvertently hit the tone arm which did a fast swing to the left and the stylus hit the edge of the record which bent it off axis. Believe it or not, it still played fine afterwards, however I know that it was not tracking in line properly.

I spoke to soundsmith about it, Peter told me not to fix it if it isn’t broken and the easiest thing to do is to cock the cartridge body off axis a couple of degrees to align the cantilever with the proper tracking direction. I ended up replacing it to keep things simple.


I don’t know much about the AT 20Sla  other than I believe it’s the aluminum cantilever and that is a far cry from the Beryllium from my experience in listening. But if you don’t like the sound of the AT carts, I understand as we all have a different set of ears.


One other question: when you received your AT20ss stylus, did it come with a response graph in the box? My original came with a paper graph read out of the full frequency range of the stylus.
I paid over $300 for my NOS AT15ss and if an AT20ss stylus was to be found, it would be far more money... I had posted a want ad for one and a guy in Russia contacted me; he wanted $1000 for it.  It was not only on the high side, I am not so sure I trust any Russians at this stage of life.  I declined the offer.
There was a thread on Audiogon quite a while ago in which a former engineer from  Audio Technica was participating.  He wrote a rather in depth post as to why Beryllium was the go to material for cantilevers and the panic that ensued at AT when the EPA came down with the order that it no longer be used due to the dangerous toxic dust released when machining the material.  He stated that the engineering department underwent a lot of R&D to find a suitable replacement material and Boron was what they determined would be closest, however it was still a compromise.  Apparently Beryllium allows for the largest frequency excursion without distortion and also permits better channel separation and signal to noise ratios.  This is why it was so good.

Here is an interesting comparison for all of you guys out in tone arm world:  I have my original Marantz 6300 turntable which I bought new in college, I still have the original receipt!  I bought it with the AT15ss and at that time I could not spring for the extra cost for the AT20ss.  I was working part time for an audio dealer which got me some nice deep discounts on my system.  The dealer told me not to worry about getting the AT20ss since it was basically the same as the AT15ss, but you know what?  It's like having a Corvette Grand sport and not getting the Z06.... they are pretty much the same other than the 06 has a little more horse power which you really don't use on US highways.  But you always wanted to know it was there and you wanted it.

Anyway, back to my point;  I decided to buy some eye candy for the living room; I found a great deal on a used VPI Ares3 with the super platter for not too much money as it didn't come with a tone arm.  I searched and found a great deal on a used SME Series IV in mint condition as the VPI was.  I spent three days in the shop machining or should I say re-machining the tone arm board which came with the VPI (acrylic) to accept the SME.  When I assembled everything it looked absolutely stunning, real eye candy.   But I was so into my vintage 6300 with the AT15ss that I couldn't believe that anything would really sound much better.   So I felt the best way to test my new set up was to do an apples to apples comparison and I moved the AT15ss from the Marantz over to the SME; this will tell me how the new turntable performs as its the same exact cartridge.

Results:  jaw dropping!!  I could not believe the difference in detail and dynamic range output.  It was simply stunning.  First thing I noticed; I could crank the volume with as much bass as I want and there is zero acoustic feedback from the low frequencies (mind you I modified the the stock feet on the VPI, I removed the useless aluminum spike cone feet and installed 4 SVS isofeet used on subwoofers....low durometer rubber).  But honestly, I was hearing instruments I have not heard before.  Material which was buried deep in the music was popping out at me.  The mid and upper ranges were just there in huge display.   The Marantz uses a steel tube tone arm with a removable head shell, the SME is a straight tapered one piece magnesium tone arm with much more elaborate bearings.  Of course the VPI is a 75 pound laminated beast as is the super platter and its belt driven.  The main bearing is silky smooth and I put some Superlube teflon grease on it.

I suppose what I am trying to say is; the other hardware down line from the cartridge plays a huge role in what you are going to hear how the cartridge melds with the playback gear might have a large influence on the performance.   I was just lucky, my AT15ss, now an AT20ss just fell right into home with all of this.
 
And to add into the mix here; I have another thought I have been wondering about:   I recently picked up a micrometer head which I am going to modify into a VTA fine adjustment for the SME Series IV as it doesn't have this.  The the Series V does have an on the fly VTA adjustment and I want that on mine.  The Micrometer head of course is indicated on the side in .001 inch increments so its going to be really easy to read a plus or minus change and log it in for a setting.

When I make up the parts to adapt this to the main shaft of the SME, I plan on machining a new tone arm board so that it's all one piece.  The VPI Ares3 is a laminated acrylic/aluminum/acrylic 3 inch thick base and the stock tonearm board is an acrylic puck which is machine bolted into the aluminum layer in the body of the turntable.  I was going to make my new tonearm board out of stainless steel as it polishes up so nicely when finished from a CNC mill. 

The question is: does anyone know anything about how a stainless tone arm board bolted to an aluminum mid layer of a laminated turntable would perform?  I mean would it really matter if I mixed materials?   Or would I be better off keeping an acrylic arm board and bolting my new parts to that?   A guy at VPI told me that the arm board material makes no difference; but I have this fancy magnesium tone arm and that made a huge difference.  I'd hate to alter whats transducing here  :) 
Raul,

Thank you for the suggestion of Magnesium for the arm board material.  I found a supplier of magnesium tooling plate which is 97% magnesium with Aluminum and zinc making up the 3% in the alloy.  They say that the tooling plate machines better than any other metal and  it has exceptional vibration absorbing properties.  

In thinking on this, that would be desirable as the tone arm board is the interface between the plinth and the tone arm.  Turntable designs are such that they use a lot of mass and various materials to isolate the vibrations from the record and external feedback from the music being played through the speakers.  The plinth is the interface from all of this and the tone arm.  I would assume that the more the plinth, platter and tone arm are isolated from these vibrations, the  more true sound will be conducted from the cartridge and to the phono pre amp.  

Since acrylic, aluminum, stainless steel all have their own vibration damping characteristics and magnesium is listed as superior (which is why SME uses it as their tone arm material), I would assume that if I were to machine the new tone arm board from this material, it would add another layer if vibration isolation from the plinth.   

Good suggestion!
Here is something new I discovered this morning:  speaking of unscrupulous dealers/sellers:

As I had mentioned earlier, I have an original AT15ss cartridge I purchased new from a dealer who I did some work for part time in college.  The Cartridge body is labeled AT-15ss, the stylus has the normal guard on it, but there is nothing printed on the guard.  I purchased a NOS AT15ss replacement stylus around 12 years ago or so from a dealer in NY.  I think I paid around $100 for it back then and it came in an OEM AT plastic box.  The guard is printed with AT 15ss on it; I found that interesting as my original didn't have anything on it.  I had spoken to Bluz Brother about this at one point and Alan told me that he has seen the stylus' come through with the printed type and no printing.  

My 4 NOS AT 20ss stylus' all have AT 20ss printed on the guard.  This morning I dug out my old original AT15ss stylus purchased back in the 1970's..... I studied it closely and immediately notice that the cantilever is Aluminum!!!  It's not the beryllium which is very distinctive.  The aluminum cantilevers are thicker with a very pronounce taper profile where as the Beryllium is technically tapered, but ever so slightly and thus appears to be a strait rod with a light sheen to it, which the aluminum doesn't have.   Long story short; all of these years in which I thought I had the real deal AT 15ss, it was actually the AT15s with the basic aluminum stylus mounted on the AT15ss body!!!  Uhuh.  So who did this?  I guess I got suckered back when I was a 20 year old kid.  I mean who would have known?

No wonder the music popped when I installed the new AT15ss stylus a few years back; I thought that my old stylus was just worn out (it probably was), so it was a worn aluminum 's' stylus being replaced with the NOS ss beryllium.... and man could I hear the difference.


Lewm, I am not sure how to accomplish this. I spoke with Gold Note and they told me it would require internal rework on one of the boards. They can do, but it would not be something the user can do.
Raul,

It's too bad the Gold Note PH10 doesn't offer a 100K setting for the input impedance, it would be fun to see how that would work with my AT20ss
Just to clear up some information posted earlier about he AT15Sa and the AT15ss/20ss stylus/cantilever questions:

I am the original owner of an AT15Sa I purchased back in 1976 from a rather unscrupulous dealer.  I was told that I was getting an AT15ss and in fact I was supplied with the factory frequency curve graph which stated AT15ss.   But the body of the cartridge is labeled AT15Sa, yet I was told that the stylus was an AT15ss.  The visor guard is not printed with anything on it in terms of identity of the stylus.

I later purchased a NOS AT15ss replacement stylus, which is printed on the visor AT15ss.  But when I studied it carefully, I noticed that the Beryllium cantilever is rather straight, it's not very obviously tapered as the "original" stylus was.  I also noticed that the Beryllium has a nice high polish/goldish color to it and the Original stylus is a dull aluminum finish.   After a lot of reading and study, I determined that the original stylus was in fact a standard AT15Sa, tapered aluminum stylus, not the 15ss I was sold with a bait and switch graph of response included.  

The new AT15ss stylus I installed sounded worlds above the AT15Sa tapered aluminum.  I have since picked up several NOS AT20ss stylus' which I currently run and the cartridge is pretty much beyond belief in performance.  I have no thoughts of replacing this with any modern cartridge....