Dear Fleib: Boron, I don't use aluminum any more but when is " strictly " necessary.
In the past I was willing to preservate a cartridge nearest to its original design and that's why I asked SS to re-tip my review sample with aluminum and similar stylus than the original ( Peter was a little renuent to make that but finally agreed. ). Through several experiences on SS/VDH/Axel I decided to forget a little about and to make the whole cartridge re-tip at the top of what we can get.
Today I know was a mistake to re-tip some cartridges with aluminum pressure fitted stylus, no more. Right now: boron, berillyum, saphire and the like with the best stylus I can find.
I'm re-tipping cartridges that just came from Axel because of that and I'm sending some cartridges to Dominic, Expert Stylus and VDH ( again. ). I want to have the best and know it and the only way to do it is comparing in between.
Yes, to do that I have to have samples of the same model and fortunately on some cartridges I have 2 and even 3 samp´les and I'm still buying.
Btw, I wonder if Audio Technica knows for sure has that " incredible " cartridge generator/motor that comes in the 95 and the Clearaudio as you stated.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Good evening Don, To my knowledge Axel is not yet 65 old. He can retire but still loves his work. I stated somewhere in this thread that this craftmanship of making carts is 'old man business'. Axel is in this business for 40 years. Only daily repetition and actual work make such craftmanship possible. The problem with 'retip' is that 'it' actualy means replacement of the whole cantilever/stylus combo. There is a repair service in Holland which do the real retip for extra payment but I am new in this practice and have only experience with Axel. What I also need to ask Axel is if those 'aluminum' cantilevers are not some kind of alloy. I know that there are beryllium/aluminum alloy cantilevers (AKG top line carts for example).
Regards, |
Hi Raul, Very interesting. You now have what is essentially a Maestro stylus on a Virtuoso. The tip is a Gyger 2 instead of the microline (microridge). I suspect that gives you the best of both, the good stylus w/o the overdamped body. I say this based on your comments about the sound of the Maestro. Now that CA has increased the amount of wood, it might be an opportune time for some, to pick up an older wood CA that needs retipping.
I don't know what kind of agreement AT has as an OEM, but I would imagine there would be some kind of exclusivity. It would be smart for them to make a CA generator in a deluxe body to offer as an alternative to the 150MLX, but I doubt if it will happen. Phono carts are now more of a secondary business for AT. Microphones and headphones seem to be their main products. They'll probably keep making carts, and occasionally come out with a new model as long as there is demand. They must be aware of the CA performance quality with all the recommendations etc. Maybe contractual obligations limit them, and maybe if they came out with the same product it wouldn't have the appeal as that same product coming from a company that makes a $15K cart.
I think you'll find a few carts that are better with an aluminum cantilever. This probably doesn't include the vast majority. Sometimes cantilever resonance is built into the voicing and might enhance frequency response or lend a warmer or more forgiving nature. The DL-304 and DL-S1 come to mind. Perhaps Miyabi is another. Regards, |
Ortofon is using an aluminum cantilever for the Candeza Mono. The designer prefered this material for the Candeza. Wouldn't say it was a bad choice for this cart. |
Dear Thuchan: As Fleib pointed out there are cartridges that was designed and voiced with aluminum cantilever to fulfil the designer targets, same when were designed with boron or other kind of cantilever build material.
My LOMC overall today refrence cartridges comes with aluminum cantilever but this not means that material is superior to other ones.
For years I was using VDH services and he use boron material and all those cartridges performs top very top.
The subject in my Clearaudios is that the aluminum choice was a bad choice if we can achieve the best that cartridge can shows. Unfortunately we are not the cartridge designers so any one of us decide what to do and if like me the choice was wrong then always is time to retify that is what I'm doing.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
sorry: " if we want... ", not " can " as I posted.
R. |
There are those who think that an Armani coat in combination with the jeans looks cool. I observed something 'similar' with the exotic cantilevers + exotic styli glued in an aluminum tube behind them (grin). |
Dear friends: Years ago when started to appear " magic fuses " that transformed an audio system quality performance level I was really sceptic till I started to try it. I try 3-4 diferent manufacturer fuses like Furutech or HI-Fi Tunning and I corroborate that really works and improve the performance level in an audio system.
Why is that?, till today I have not a precise answer so I can't understand yet why works so fine but the important subject is that it works.
For the last 2 years my preference are the Hi-Fi tunning that are the ones I use in all my electronics.
Two-three months ago I read about the " new kid on the block " by Synergetics Research and what I read move me to bought and test it. I mounted first in the external amplifiers , four of them ( my system have around 16 fuses. ), and I was not with very high expectations about because my today audio system level is really high and not easy that a " new fuse " could help it especially when already has top " fancy " fuses.
Well, I had and have a notorious improvement. Why I say a " notorious " improvement: well when you have a " 98.5% " of something good in audio try to achieve 99.5% of that good thing is very very dificult and a hard task. It is more easy to pass from 80% to 90%. Distortions goes lower. First LP I use it under the system test was my sample of the 33rpm single Laura Branigan " Self Control " ( I use this recording in my overall testing process for several reasons, between them to test: rhythm. ), at the very begening this track has the natural agresiveness that has the live music but here the high frequency is a little to agressive and only on top system with very low distortions you can hear it with out or very low shrill. I really was satisfied on that regar with my system till I heard those fuses in there: the last tiny shrill veil disappear. This HF lower distortions follow appearing through all my recordings even I check if really those distortions gone lower and I did it with that recordings and others incrementing by 1-2-3dbs to see what happen in my ears/system limit ( that I'm aware in very precise way. ) and if I can go higher with out " pain " and yes I go higher with no single problem other that at that so high SPL is risky to my ears after several minutes to hear it.
What happened at the other frequency extreme?, well in that test recording and others ones happened the same: lower distortions that not only gives me a better bass management but that help for not only the midrange shine it with new " light " but the overall audio system performance level.
I decide to follow testing those SR fuses in all my electronics, next step in my Phonolinepreamp and from there to the amplifiers internally and obviously my subwoofers.
Highly recomended.
I bought it here: http://www.highend-electronics.com/38.html#qf
and I have no relationship there, Alfred Kainz was the person I contact it.
Btw, you can buy with no risk about your investment because you are free to test it at your place for 30 days and if you don't like it they return your money.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
I try to keep an open mind on issues such as boutique fuses. My reading led me to believe that the possible benefits might be related to (1) a ceramic body, rather than a glass one, and (2) silver, or some other metal combined with silver, as a conductor. I found a source in the US for ceramic fuses with silver wire, here in the US:
http://www.acmeaudiolabs.com/products.htm
Their silver/ceramic/cryo-treated fuses cost $16 each. That's good enough for me. I will not pay $59 for a fuse. Also, it seems absurd to spend big bucks on a fuse unless one also pays attention to the quality of the fuse-holder. Most of them are made with fairly trashy metals as conductive contacts for your boutique fuses. Acme also sell nice quality fuse holders for a very reasonable price. I use both their fuses and their fuse-holders.
Do I hear a difference? My OTL amplifiers require a fuse on each output tube. In other words, the fuse and fuse-holder are in the signal path, so I have no doubt that there is a rationale for using the best possible. I installed them in conjunction with some other more major upgrades to the amplifiers. All I can say is that I am very pleased with the overall result of that work. Maybe some day I will install some cheap hardware store fuses and do a comparison test; maybe not. |
Lewm, I can confirm similar results with an Acme silver fuse at AC inlet on my BAT VK75SE. I have not tried their fuse holder. |
Dgarretson, I was not aware that we both use the same amp. A VK75SE. I have the original fuse supplied by Victor. Looks like it's time for a new fuse. Regards, Don |
Good Morning and hello, Nandric, I mounted my new suspended Ruby "S" to the tone arm this morning after removing the Goldring G800Ax (Ax for Axel). How does it compare? Well,.....Lets just say, I think you picked the wrong cantilever material for yours! Regards, Don |
Hello Don,
By Ruby "S" I assume that you mean Soundsmith F9 Ruby with OCL? I have been on the fence about ordering one. What does the SS stylus holder look like?
The Acme fuse was icing on the cake of many mods to VK75SE. In addition I bypassed the soft-start thermistor with silver wire-- which is also worthwhile. |
To you guys and any other BAT amplifier users, I have six matched pairs of NOS 6C33Cs, selected by and purchased from Victor Khomenko of BAT, himself, about 10 years ago. They are available for sale. I originally bought them, because my own Atma-sphere OTLs used to use 6C33Cs, until I recently converted them to use type 7241 triodes. (I get a little more power per tube with the 7241s and thus can use fewer output tubes per chassis with no downside, except the extreme rarity and cost of the 7241.) The 6C33Cs are vintage early 1990s, were manufactured at the Ulyanov factory, which makes them desirable. I also have NOS sockets for each tube. Sorry for the OT comment and for the sales pitch. You can contact me privately.
For a relevant comment, I was just recently able to purchase an NOS Acutex M320. Now I will find out whether I agree that it is superior to the LPM320. |
Dear Don, To be honest I was very sceptical about the G800 but I asked Axel for the same upgrade as Raul without any idea what he ordered. The G 800 was his idea btw. I am also suprised that you needed new suspension for your Ruby 3S. This is pretty new model and my is like new. My quess is that 'S' means Gyger S . Anway Gyger S is writen in my measuring paper.
Regards, |
Hi Dgarretson, Nandric and I both have the Benz Micro Ruby 3s. He, in an earlier post, stated his G800 with an alum. cantiliver with a pressure fit line contact stylus did not better his Ruby 3s. I should not have shortened its name even shorter to Ruby S. Sorry for the confussion! As far as needing 6C33's, I also have a large supply, bought from Victor back when I had a VK60. I bought one of the 1st VK60's sold in California. I heard it at the stereophile show up in San Francisco. Victor was looking for dealers. Bruce at Stereo Unlimited signed on and thru Bruce, I bought one. BTW, I am also waiting for a picture of the SS Grace Ruby stylus. Regards, Don |
Nandric,
My graph paper says Ruby F/G-S. I have one of the very early ones. I had a Ruby F/GII in which I broke one of the contact pin wires. A steel nut got sucked up into the cartridge body when I was trying to mount it. I tried to use a pair of tweezers to get the nut out and broke the wire soldered to the red pin. I sent it back to Musical Surroundings for repair, and what I got back in 1 week was the new F/G-S. I bought the F/GII on sale. I also had a Ruby I for trade-in so I got it very cheap. The sale must have been because they were coming out with the F/G-S. Turned out to be one of the best screw-up's I've ever done. The Goldring was a cartridge that I had been reading about on Dominic Harpers web site. He uses his nickel cantilever on the G800. I am not to fond of nickel material. I am a retired Aircraft Engineer. The company I worked for had a plating facility (Silver, nickel, copper, Chrome), with nickel being used a base material. Rather soft and oxidized quickly. Because of this experience, I decided to stay with known/proven to me, materials. Regards, Don |
Nandric, I sent my Benz Micro Ruby 3 off to Axel, thinking it needed a new tip. I had too many cartridges that sounded better than it did. Being retired, I get to play records, for hours & hours, day after day! It must be at least 6, maybe 8 years old? I've been retired for 9 years, and I know I was retired when it happened. Good news for you though. Axel said the stylus was showing no signs of wear. So you will probably need suspension work well before you will need a retip. Axel charged 65 euro's and it sounds excellent. Only cartridges now at its level are the London (Decca) Jubilee, AT ML180, Signet TK10 ML MKII, Stanton 981 LZS and the Technics U205C MK4! I might have to throw in the Goldring G800Ax. Yes, Nandric, mine is that good! Regards, Don |
Fuses - You can also eliminate fuses and all the push fit connections and additional joints by just soldering in fusewire in series. Anyone try this ?
Raul can you confirm your best Virtuoso with boron cantilever - does this sound any different to the Maestro.
Nandric - the Aluminium/boron combo is what Garrots use to use on some cartirdges. On my Denon 103 it was superb.
If you guys check out Youngs Modulus you will see that Aluminium/Boron/Beryllium/Diamond have quite significant differences in hardness, and the ones with the lower Modulus number ie aluminium, will self damp more, the harder ones send much more energy into the cartridge generator and body.
Lewm - re the Urushi - most of the Koetsu's I had sounded significantly better all round with a microscanner diamond installed. Have you thought about retipping. I'm convinced my recently rebuilt Dynavector Nova 13 is pulling more information and has better separation of instruments than before, and one of the differences is it now sports the micro ridge diamond instead of the PA line contact. The other outstanding Koetsu amongst the 30 or so I've used/set up the van den hul rebuilt onyx was outstanding - I see that the Expert Stylus Paratrace is very similar to the van den hul shape. I'd be nervous about sending the K to van den hul as I cant believe the old man does these personally any more ?? The new "Garrotts" do a microscanner retip and cartridge checking, but I have no experience of their service level. |
Hi Folks, Spoke to Dominic about the G800 regarding the aluminum cantilever that Raul did through Axel seeking his opinion. According to him, that choice of metal(Al) was a weak link in that mod. Other better metals will elevate the G800 beyond belief. Do I believe him ? I have no reason not to since he is the one that discovered the magic of G800 through mod.. |
Fuses are generally used for good safety reasons. To bypass a fuse with a wire, silver or otherwise, requires some solid knowledge of what you are doing and the possible negative consequences. Sometimes, it can be done safely. Most of the time, not.
As to re-tipping an Urushi. I had not thought of doing that as it would devalue the cartridge. Of course, if the suspension or tip were worn out, then it makes perfect sense. Absent those issues, I would as soon sell the Urushi in its original state and turn to something else. Right now, it merits another audition, since I have not listened to mine in nearly a year, and my system, especially my speakers, are much different/better. |
Dear Lewm: I already tested the ones you use it.
You are right about the fuse holder and trhough my electronics I soldered directly the fuse when that was/is posible.
Btw, agree with you: by-pass fuses is almost always riscky we can lose the protection for any unexpected electrical " failure ".
In electronics configuration as your OTL in theory the best fuse is no fuse due that is in the signal path.
Why in electronics as mine where the fuse is not on the signal path makes those differences?
I know that the SR is an expensive one but if in my system made a " significant " improvement ( not a mere difference. ) IMHO in your electronics could be like " night and day ". Worth to try it and you lose nothing because that 30 days test warranty!
regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Dear Aududiopulse: He is right, aluminum is wrong with that cartridge as is with the Virtuoso.
I know that almost any cantilever build material could function very well depending on the overall cartridge design, we have to remember that cantilever is an important part of that design but is only a part.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
I must confess my addiction to those damn carts. Each day I spend at least two hours searching for the 'interesting' carts of both kinds. Those which are also cheap are the most interesting. But the rules of the game are changed with the huge incrise in retip prices. With so many carts one should have, I think, some exit strategy. That is to say the possibility to resell some of them for a 'resonable price'. Otherwise this 'addiction' become more crazy then it already is. I have no idea how many producers of those cantilever/stylus combo's there are but I don't understand why boron, beryllium, sapphire, etc. are so much more expensive than aluminum with the same stylus. From the fact that Axel and I wrote more then 4 emails to two producers asking for the micro ridge styli but without any reaction from both I deduce that they can afford such a attitude. Are those producers some kind of monopolist? The fact also that Japanese producers incrised one-sided their prices with 100% suggest that there is no much competition between them. To make my point I am pretty sure that I will never (re)sell my G800 for the price of the retip only. This means in my case: no more carts which need a new cantilever and/or stylus.
Regards, |
Dear Raul, You make a good point; I have no idea either why fuses on the AC line make such a difference, but "silver" and "cryo" are part of the audiophile mantra. We believe in those twin gods, don't we? What's even crazier, not to say much crazier, is the idea that fuses have directionality. Some of the most expensive fuses are marked for "proper" orientation. On an AC line, the AC passing through a fuse would be at a fixed frequency (50 or 60Hz) and would have a sine wave form, equal amplitude in both up and down phases. Orientation should be irrelevant. I am not saying I think it IS relevant, but some think they hear a difference. (This is why we favor double-blind placebo controlled experiments as data vs subjective opinions, everywhere but in audio.)
The way I've wired my output stage, I have to remove their fuses in order to bias each output tube (separately). The ability to do so is a big advantage over commercial OTLs, where one has to bias a whole bank of output tubes with a single control, such that one really does not know what is happening with the bias at each individual output tube. (One or more tubes could be drawing most of the bias current whilst the others are near to being turned off.) However, the trade-off is that I would not be able to hard wire the output tube fuses into the circuit. I am kind of stuck with fuse holders. |
Dear Lewm: Yes, there are " crazy " tthings surrounded these fancy fuses as that " directionality " you name it and that some persons support it. Reading that kind of fuse " things " I tested that directionality looking for a change and I could not be aware of it.
Things goes so " crazy " that even the manyfacturers recomed that " directionality ". In the case of my new SR ones the manufacturer said : no directionality factor with their fuses.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
I think the manufacturers realized that endorsing the idea of directionality was yet another good way to promote the sale of $50 fuses; if direction makes a difference, then surely all the other associated less controversial mumbo jumbo makes sense too. |
Dear nandric: It was unfortunated that Axel re-tipping/fix prices already gone real high.
Well, that helps to be more selective and precise on what we want it.
Time to come back VDH for me.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Dear Raul, The problem with Van den Hul is that he can be reached only via intermediary. Even for us in Holland. There is one other retip service in Holland but the prices are nearly identical with Axel's. I like Axel very much but my bank account even more. 400 Euro for an retip is anayway to expensive for me. But you are our leader in this adventure so you will lead the way. BTW I don't believe that Van den Hul himself does any retip work. He owns 3 different companies and spend more time in Ukraine than Holland.
Regards, |
Perhaps vdH is more fascinated with the beautiful women of the Ukraine than he is with repairing another Colibri. Who can blame him?
It was slowly dawning on me that Axel was raising his prices. Now that Nicola mentions "400 Euro", I am both flabbergasted and sure of it. That makes SoundSmith look like a very reasonable alternative. Raul, what about the other company, located in the Northwest USA, that you once mentioned? Have you given them any re-tip business? |
Dear Lew, Thanks for the tip. I had no idea about anything interesting in Ukraine. Van den Hul is there involved in the aviation industry with his carbon (?)wire company. I really need to 'refresh' my Russian while Ukraine is nearer than the Russian Federation. |
Nandric, Lewm,
Axel, sometime in mid September, did the nude Shibata/Beryllium cantilever replacement on my Goldring G800 for 273 euro's. I'm going to assume that prices must vary from different vendors or materials. Perhaps prices are lower on old stock? I don't know which is correct, but one thing is certain, $352 (273 euro's) + $25 (for ebay purchase), is damn cheap for a cartridge that of this caliber! |
Professors and fans, Is the Grace F-9U on the top of the F-9 series, the stylus is Microline, what´s the original cantilever ? |
Regards, Harald-n-t-b: Suggest you look at the download of Grace "Stereo Pickups" in the Vinyl Engine Library, draw your own conclusions.
I've both the F9E & F9L. Being a midrange junkie, the F-9L is among my ten or so favorites. Outvoted by those who have had the opportunity to compare the "L" to the "E" & Ruby. The F9F (blue stylus ass'ly) is usually considered the premier edition.
Peace, |
With discussion returning to Grace, I recently pulled the trigger on a Soundmith F9 holder with ruby cant and OCL. Should arrive in mid November. Unfortunately I have nothing from Grace to compare it to, as my stock E stylus is broken. |
Dave, So I gather that (for $500?), SS sells an entire stylus cum cantilever assembly for the Grace? What bothers me about that is the fact that one is replacing not only the stylus, cantilever, and associated suspension, but also the male part of the stylus assembly that sticks up into the cartridge body. Or to put it another way, the part of the cantilever aft of the pivot. Seems this could change the sound quite a bit vs that of the stock component. I am curious to learn how it works out.
Interesting to note that when Raul started on this odyssey, he was probably paying no more than $100 for any of these cartridges. Now we accept it as a given that spending $500 to $1000 (including the cost of rebuild in some cases when necessary) is the norm. |
Lew, I was on the fence about what to do with the F9 body--a $47 eBay purchase. The rising cost of retips tipped me toward SS. So the F9 will carry a stylus costing 10x more than the body. A good analogy may be to what in LA is referred to as a "torpedo stick"-- a twig of a girl with massive silicone. |
Funny. Except in this case the added part is the most relevant part. Or maybe not; in both cases the body is slave to the addenda. |
Lewn, Thanks for the tip on Acme Audio Labs. Michael Brinkman was a real gentleman to deal with. Ordered 15 fuses and should have them by Monday. Regards, Don |
Dear Don, Considering your background I am really suprised that you believe in Lew's myth reg. Acme. Before ordering 15 of them you should, as he should, first order one, then compare with the cheap one and if convinced about their superiority order the other 14. There is no sense in spending money saved by avoiding the retip (because of the new prices) for fuses.
Regards, |
Dear Nandric,
Have you assumed (incorrectly), that I am running my equipment with fuses bought from some auto parts store? I did a fuse comparison several years ago. Because of the ridicules prices I only upgraded certain fuses in my system. The prices asked by Acme Audio, for silver ceramic fuses is quite a bargain ($16 versus $49), so I decided to finish replacing ALL the remaining fuses in my 2 systems plus some spares. Nandric, the difference in fuses pales in comparison to what a retip will provide. I have a DeoxIT & PreservIT kit by Cramolin which is a electronic maintenance kit for cleaning contacts. Damn near same results can be accomplished treating/cleaning the fuses & their holders with it. The down side is that you will occasionally have to pull your system apart to reapply. The fuse change is forever. The money spent is because I'm lazy! |
Dear Lewm: As I said I can't understand/know why the fuse improvements differences in between.
Silver, cryo and ceramic is not all the " name of game " because the Acme and Hi-Fi tunning share those characteristics and the HFT are superior ones in the way that the SR are superiors to the HFT, so???????????
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Dear Don, I deed not assume that your fuses are from some auto part store but well that they are put in whatever part of your gear by those who made the same gear. They are supposed to know about the parts they use I think. In Europe we know about different kinds of fuses for years. According to some they make no (electrical)sense , accordiding to others they are 'a must have'. I am happy to report that my FR-7 needs no upgrade so I saved about 180 Euro which I can spend on fuses. If I only knew where to put them.
Regards, |
Dear Nandric,
The fuses that are in our gear, put there by whom ever built the gear, can be bought at any auto parts store here in the US. It's a sad fact but true! They are nothing special, just fuses. You can buy a 5 pack for $1.50. Considered the weak link in a circuit (Pun intended). I have, once a year, remove all fuses and clean/treat the fuse and holder with the preserver. It makes a slight difference. For how long? I have no ideal, but there is a noticeable difference when done. Absolute pain in the ass to do. Unplugging all those cables, power cords, etc. just to get the piece of equipment out of the rack for fuse cleaning. Not much return for all that effort. To have replaced all my fuses with the latest and greatest SR fuse, it would have run me well over $1000. To me, the slight improvement would not justify spending that kind of money. I had changed some of the fuses in my system to the ceramic ones, and it was always at the back of my mind that I still have some of those cheap auto parts fuses still in certain components of my system. Instead of cleaning them this year, I have decided to just go ahead and replace those that are still the cheap glass type. Price was right thanks to Acme. Really was not interested in whether they were better or were not as good as some other brand. I just wanted fuses that were better than what I had. This will be the last time that I will spend the fall season pulling out equipment. Regards, Don |
Dear Don, You already told us to be a retired aircraft engineer. So you have all the time to mess with a.o. the fuses. I am also a retired person but as civil servant with hernia (got the hernia from adjustment of those damn springs on the LP12). Besides my lovely ASR 'German artillery' has two battery packs for, I assume, the signal path but I have no idea which is which. To avoid trouble I simply assume that there are no fuses in my signal path. This way I can concentrate on purchase of carts and tonearms. One can't have it all?
Regards, |
Raul, Perhaps it is you who should tell me what is the difference between one silver/ceramic/cryo-treated fuse that costs $16 and another silver/ceramic/cryo-treated fuse that costs $59. Pixie dust? (Just kidding.) For me, the Acme fuses are an example of what I call "good enough", not worthy of further thought and mental anguish.
Prior to finding the Acme products, I used to coat the ends of my conventional glass fuses with Walker Audio SS contact enhancer, just empirically. I never did an A/B comparison, with vs without the Walker enhancer. I still use the Walker enhancer on the Acme fuses. |
a) $43 b) $43 less the marginal tax rate of your business c ) $43 plus or minus freight and sales tax differential d ) $2500 actual savings, assuming the purchase of said audiophile fuses saves another trip to the therapist. e) All of the above |
Dear Dover, You are to modest. Thanks to Lew's and Henry's objections I decided not to buy the Genesis 1.1 (aka Infinity RS) and saved $250.000. |
Nandric - when I was in the business in the 80's I heard a full home theatre system in the US - Infinity IRS V's for the fronts, IRS 1B's for the 2 sides and IRS V's for the two at the rear. Top Gun was the movie of the day and I was lucky to get out alive - planes were dive bombing me from all directions. I still have a photo somewhere of a rack of Audio Research amps with a "No Smoking" sign on the top - obviously they missed the irony. |
If anyone here has a blown $59 fuse, I will donate an Acme fuse so we can cut them in half and find out indeed whether there is any difference at all between them. I am curious. |