Vinyl Lovers

@jacksky 

I had my collection sorted a little similar to your system for separating into rock , folk and jazz , while I was sorting my classical selections by conductor then by composer  since they were all were all conducting the Chicago Symphony .

First I rearranged the classical , first by composer then by conductor then I tackled the big job rock , folk and jazz . I use the alphabet minus the word The , so Beatles, George H. by the Great Society and Grateful Dead , John L between John Cougar and John Mayall . and Paul M by Pink Floyd .  Where to put Rod Stewart ? with Blind Faith ? Faces ? no under R . Dave Mason = D , Traffic = T .  This way I don't have to remember which group somebody was in  . Do you have Led Zeppelin with the Yardbirds ? or Jeff Beck or Eric Clapton with them also ? kind of confusing .

At least it's one way to think about it .

IIRC, the Zerostat emits one charge when squeezed, the other when released. I don’t remember which is positive and which is negative.

As for LP (and CD) organization, whatever makes finding any given LP/CD when you want to hear it easiest. For me that means simple alphabetizing by artist or band/group name, followed by chronology. I guess if you feel like hearing some, say, Jazz, subdividing by genre may be of value, but that’s not how my musical hunger works. And no "The" before a band name!

As for Classical, alpha by composer, followed by title of composition, then by performer (if solo piece) or conductor. Some serious collectors sort by label.

If you're correct, then it must emit positive ions when the retracted trigger is slowly released, because that is the step that neutralizes charge on an LP surface. 

@lewm: And if that's the case, perhaps the Nagaoka and Furutech emit only positive ions. Neither has a trigger handle, only an on/off button.

The Zerostat can only handle so much static charge. The best way to deal with static it to provide a very low impedance path to ground. The Hudson conductive sweep arm does this beautifully at a very attractive price, 1/3rd the price of a Zerostat. If you put just a few drops/gallon of a cationic subrance in your record cleaning fluid such as BAK (Benzalkonium Chloride) your records will not collect a noticeable charge. 

What data support the idea that zerostat can “only handle so much static charge”? And how much is that?

Classical one place (organization method of choice, i.e. alphabetical, chronological, both, etc.)
Soundtracks in another place (ditto).
Adjacent to soundtracks, the “others”; Xmas, comedy, spoken word, etc, and 7”(ditto).
Virtually everything else alphabetized.
Works well for me when I want to find something efficiently.

I have built up a collection of 6,000+ LPs over 59 years.

- since 2005, I buy 98% of my LPs online, either over eBay (about 98%) or discogs (about 2%, but within the last year I’m going here more than eBay).
- I buy only from vendors with a rating of 99% or higher. Make sure they have sold at least 200 LPs. No exceptions unless I’ve been looking for that LP for ages. eBay guarantees everything, with discogs you have to rely on your credit card to get your money back if anything goes wrong. I’ve bought from two bad sellers: one took months to deliver, the other discogs had to remove him because he was suddenly getting a slew of negs, his rating went from 99.5% to 90% within a week.
- I wander into brick and mortar shops when I come across them, for fun, for old times sake. Very rarely do I buy anything there, either I cannot find it or it’s overpriced.
- I always look first for original NM of pressings of recordings - where they exist - that were mastered analog and pressed before 1990 (AAA: analog recording, analog mastering, analog pressing). Remastered issues come from “master tapes” that have been sitting on a shelf deteriorating for 20, 30, maybe 50 years or longer, so the remastering almost will never sound as good as a well cared for original press. Sometimes a EX or even a VG+ will sound better than a remastered LP, certainly often better than one merely reissued. I bought a reissue of Blows Against the Empire by Paul Kantner and the Jefferson Starship - for example - that was so muddy sounding that I returned it for that reason alone. Same with Eric Dolphy’s Out To Lunch: my original mono and stereo deep groove presses sounded waaaay better than the reissue. If I do get a reissued remaster, I want it to be AAA. Avoid ADA - where digital has been inserted into the chain at the mastering stage: it IS possible to hear the loss of sound. Years ago, I found myself wondering - for example - why the quality of MFSL remasters suddenly seemed to drop off: the sound seemed thinner, with less dimension and detail. Then the news came out and I said “aha!” I’ve never bought a MFSL ever again.

https://www.theaudioatticvinylsundays.com/

Surely any ionising device works by splitting an atom or molecule into a positively charged and a negatively charged moiety? And they will recombine as soon as they can, unless by some means they are kept separate? Anyone who has rubbed a balloon on their woollen sweater knows this is possible, and that the separated charges recombine and annul each other very quickly. Static electricity is a dark art to me, but I believe it must be the case that a Milty Zerostat can only send out a stream of ions of one charge if it keeps the oppositely charged ions to itself, and I guess the slow deformation of the piezo ceramic inside it is instrumental for this?

Find sellers you trust on Discogs and go back to them and only to them. That's my suggestion. I have 5 or 6 go-to sellers that never do me wrong. It took some trial and error to land with these guys, but so well worth it. A few of my sellers of choice VPI clean their LPs before sending, so it saves me the trouble.