Vintage turntable question

The Circular Economy keeps on flourishing 

Hats of to those who support it.

Well, what the heck.

$250 isn't much of a lay out in this nutty hobby. Going to buy it and see what it takes to get it in top shape. I think it will be an interesting project.

Thanks, all!

If one looks at the SP10 MkII as an example of a Vintage TT, much of what is to be read is not about stripping circuits and replacing the parts. Much of what is shared is to trouble shoot a function issue, which commonly relates to only a small proportion of the entire circuit.

The SP10 MkII is extremely popular and I am not aware of anybody making it known catastrophic failure of a component totalled their TT.

A catastrophic failure of a component is the likely cause of a functioning issue with the TT, or any TT for that matter.

Others more familiar than myself with the SP10 MkII might say different to my own comment.

With what I know, what makes the components in any other circuit of a Vintage DD TT all of a sudden need the entirety of part exchanges to occur. Are selected components inferior on different TT's?

I strongly suggest becoming the owner of a standalone speed strobe, the same or  similar to the Keystrobe. A device like this to assess speed without the Mains Power supplying the power supply to the Strobe, is the only way to fully understand what is happening with the TT's stability of speed.

A New TT is not needed, my SP10 MkII has been instrumental in TT owners changing their owned TT's. One TT worth £20Kish was sold off shortly after the owner realised what the MkII was capable off.

Anther TT owner who was at the same demo' I gave, who was owning a Upgraded LP 12 with many £'s tied up in the TT, purchased a SP10R and relegated the Linn to their second system.   

One other at the demo' had a MkII in storage, which was a short time after passed it on to the Tech' who did work to my own MkII. The individual also had the same Tonearm produced and has not used their original Michell Orbe Analogue Source Since their DD TT was serviced and given the improved speed control. 

I can only advise that the Old Tech vs New Tech debate has limited to offer, with the idea, the New Tech surpasses the Old Tech to the point it is ' Beaten Hands Down' is a false hood. 

Old Tech if the correct model is selected will come with a substantial reduction in initial cost in general, when compared to a New Tech design it is worthy of going toe to toe with.

Old Tech, with a small outlay of monies can easily be a design incorporating parts that New Tech promotes as being of great importance to the designs.

Certain designs of Old Tech DD TT or other drives can easily be mounted on a material that is today used by some of the most prominent New Tech TT producers, where the Old Tech TT owner can have materials purchased and produced to fit the intended purpose for a fraction of the cost of a charge made by a New Tech producer.

My own experiences are for a few hundred £'s to purchase a TT and have it brought up to scratch, inclusive of a new design for the Speed Control and subsequently taking the design for the TT further. Where adding modern materials as replacement parts to the Platter Bearing assembly as part of the earing overhaul and then adding a modern material to mount the DD TT on design, which both cost an few hundred £'s. Has as the end result produced a TT that when demo'd to very well seasoned Analogue Source owners, has a profound impact on them, where they were to change course almost instantaneously. TT's that some would die for such as SME with V Tonearm, Linn and Michell were dropped for being not in the same league as a TT, that was in one case costing 20 x less to acquire.

If those who have a interested in seeing New Model TT's being sold are to strongly suggest a TT that is new should be the only consideration, well that is their take, certainly not my own, and I certainly have nothing to gain in my suggestions being made. 

I am not in influencing a Thread by trying to steer a Gon Member to make a purchase of something I have a vested interest in, or am I a Vendor for any products of any type.

I am always selling an idea, so I do have something to sell and that is being very encouraging to see the Circular Economy flourish, keep the Land Fills less filled  .          

Purchase a new turntable don't waste precious time and money on something that could have reliability issues even after repairs!

Don't have info on Denon, but I have Technics SP10 MkII, much support for this vintage tt. I purchased mine as bare tt, no arm or plinth, power supply and cosmetics refurbished. Always good idea to replace electrolytic caps with any vintage electronics. Sometimes one can power up with variac and reform these caps, still good idea to replace.

Many moons ago I owned a Denon DP 60L, it came with two arm wands . The Denons have a magnetic tape strip on the inside of the platter to control the speed. If that ever gets damaged, you will be SOL. That table is over 40 years old. IMO, I think you would be better off looking for something newer!

@larryi ,

Yeah, with what you and pindac wrote and what I read, a total recap is wise.

Now I have to weigh the cost of all of that as opposed to getting a decent quality new table.

Hoping some guys who own one will chime in and let me know their opinion if it’s worth it. I’m now leaning toward it’s a lot of hubbub with an old table as opposed to something newer and simpler.

As for a desirable pick up, a TT that functions without fault is in my experiences very satisfying to experience in use. It is certainly a Base to Build From.

I'm confident that if the 57L is in the finest of fettle, plenty of good moments as a result of encountered End Sound will follow.

I'm also confident if the TT is investigated as already suggested, along with a view on a Plinth Design and Tonearm change, the good moments will become something quite different as a betterment. 

I found the info below, which should assist with any concerns.

The DP57L is the same as the DP62L and I have lots of experience with the lifter issues with that table.

There are adjustments but I doubt that these are not going to be much help. The age of that table means it should be recapped. If it has not been recapped, any adjustments would only be compensating for out of spec electrolytic caps. If you can readjust it until it works again, it won't last very long.

Other than the ageing caps, the 57L has a lifting motor that activates the raising platform via a rod that passes through a bushing that is pressed into the tonearm base. There is a common mechanical problem with this assembly where dirt and dust clog up the bushing and the lifting motor does not have sufficient torque to overcome the binding.
You can free up the binding by dripping drops of lightweight oil down the lifting shaft and manually work the shaft up and down. There is a small set screw on the black lifting platform that locks the lifting platform on a flat spot on the lifting shaft (this is a fine adjustment so take note where it is when you remove it).
You can check for binding by grasping the lifting platform and gently pull up and push down on the platform. It should freely move up/down by about 1/4 inch. If it doesn't you have a binding problem and no amount of adjusting is going to do anything but mess things up further.
You can drip a single drop of oil down the lifting shaft and try working the lifting shaft up/down. This can take some time and patience. You add a single drop of oil by dipping a toothpick in some oil and dripping that drop down the shaft. Then you try moving the shaft up/down. If it doesn't move, add another drop of oil and wait about an hour. Then begin again.
Repeat this as may times as it takes to free up the shaft. Be prepared as this can be very bound up and can take time. You can try penetrating oil if its really stubborn.
And now back to where I started. If your table has not been recapped, be prepared for frustration. The DP-57/62L uses a microprocessor speed controller that is very hard to find replacements for. If you insist on using that table without recapping it you will end up burning out that microprocessor and it will be a very nice looking turntable that might be good for some replacement parts...and that's about it.
I am not over stating anything. There are about 40 electrolytic capacitors on that turntable's circuit boards (2 of them). They are over 30 years old and have no chance of being anywhere close to being in spec. Its your turntable and its up to you.
I'm just telling you the truth. I have no stake in anything and I do not restore these turntables as a living. I did restore mine.
Ed

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXujwnaTGg4

@pindac, that is good to know.

With your experience with the DP80 and other vintage turntables, in your opinion is this a desirable pick up?

@thecarpathian I own a range of Vintage Japanese DD TT's from the Technics SP10 MkII which is the main used TT, Denon DP 80's, Sony TTS 8000's and Aurex SR 510's.

The main used SP 10 MkII has been with a UK EE who is highly respected for their work with these and has produced a Speed Control improvement.

This same person has undertaken work on a large range of Vintage DD TT's especially ones designed / produced in Japan.  

I share personal time with this person and communicate through phone, where the talk has been on a overhaul of a DD TT, not during any conversation has the notion a complete strip out and replacement of circuit components is required.

The Bearing Condition is always a consideration and again a basic service can be offered. Alternatively a complete rebuild of the bearing assembly where all sacrificial parts are selected for their lowest impact on friction and certain parts are machined to interface with the Bearing Spindle to the smallest dimension as a tolerance which is which I have adopted for TT's intended to be used regularly.

If one wants to take on the task to replace the circuit fine, I have recently bought into owning a SP10 MkII DD TT with a design that has a Standalone Circuit, that is produced with new components. 

The Bearing on this design allows for much more to be done, than what is achievable on the OEM design model.

I don’t know about the specifics of the Denon, but many of these old decks do use no longer available IC chips.  The idea of an electrolytic cap leaking and damaging other components is a real possibility.  The electrolyte in many such caps is corrosive.  The issue is whether the cost can be justified.  

@pindac ,

Everything I've read about these old Denons is that if you get one, priority one is a recap. Something about (and I'm probably going to screw this up) if the caps go it takes out the ic chip(s)? A board? and it's allegedly impossible to find a replacement. Something like that. It's apparently a peace of mind thing. The platter is silent as can be. I'm just curious if these old tables are that good that it's worth it to get it in prime condition. Thanks for the reply.

Is anything known to be occurring to suggest the components need to be exchanged?

Mechanically the Platter Spindle Bearing could be will used in a condition of lubrication that is not ideal. This would be a bigger concern, as noise could be generated and the Bearing Spindle Condition resulting from abrasive interfaces, can be a condition always able to generate noise.

Other parts within the Spindle Bearing Housing are typically a design to be sacrificial and if found showing a unwanted condition are very easily swapped for parts in their best condition.

A Investigation will show if a thorough clean and re-lube is the only treatment needed or if a part needs swapping out. 

Typically today, the idea of producing interfaces within the Bearing Housing that are not a risk to enabling metal on metal occurring are the methods seen to be substantially improved over the OEM designs, for noise generated and lowering friction between parts.