Chakster had a wealth of opinions that would not let facts stand in their way. But I miss him too and hope he’s ok.
Vintage Japanese DD Consult and Suggestions Please
A little over five years ago, I worked with Chris Harban at Woodsong Audio to craft a bespoke Garrard 301 for me and my my vinyl collection. I had previously had a Dual of some model followed by a Thorens TD 160 with a nice Ortofon Black MM cart. The 301 was completely restored featuring a heavy mahogany plinth, Ortofon AS 309S tonearm, and Ortofon SPU head. I have completely blown away with how this table has sounded and looked. The sound was huge, rich, and detailed...everything that I heard that idle drives from this era should sound.
Unfortunately, some family health matters have forced me to liquidate some much revered audio gear, and recently placed my Garrard 301 up for sale. I do not wish to be without a way to continue to enjoy my collection and would somehow like to come as close to the performance of the 301 for around $2500 or so.
My considerations (thus far)for this change are as follows,
Denon DP80
Technics SP10 Mk 2 or 3
Technics SL 1000 Mk 2
Luxman PD 444
As you can see, I am curious about the more vintage looks and sound of the direct drives coming out of Japan, and am hoping to glean from this audience which of these units may provide me with the same (or as close to)level of enjoyment that my 301 has done. Thoughts on tonearm and MC cartridges pairings with each would be helpful.
I am not really considering anything belt driven at this time for whatever reason, or a deck that veers away from a traditional turntable aesthetic.
If it helps, the rest of the signal chain is as follows.
Aric Audio Motherlode preamp
Manley Steelhead phono pre
Aric Audio Transcend EL 34 push/pull amp
Klipsch Forte iv speakers.
I am grateful in advance for your thoughts on this matter.
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I find this Micro Seiki a good combo of QLDD, separate power supply if you value that, and it has the Long Version of their 505L Arm. Check how the dust cover is wider than the plinth, only a small part rests on two fittings on the sides up front, must have been some testing involved to choose that. Micro Seiki QLDD Turntable, 3 speeds, outboard controller
I wondered what the holes in the side were for, I found this: "In 1976, a Hi-End model of the DD100 class appeared in retail. The device had a massive and heavy table, a heavy disk. The DD100 weighed 26 kilograms. A new generation tonearm - MA505 was installed. It was possible to install two more tonearms, including 10 and 12 This was done using bases that were attached to the sidewalls of the case. Five different A-series bases were developed." I know OP is not interested in more than one arm, just fun facts. I like my arms under the dust cover, not outside as they would be. In any case, the 505 arm has both a removable headshell and the arm tube fitting is adjustable for azimuth, excellent thinking, faster and easier to get right than an adjustable headshell with allen head set screw. |
I sold Denon in the heyday… not much sonic difference between the 75 and 80 but w best arms and carts, the 80 is better. You can look at my reference system and see 2x DP-75. The factory plinth can be improved of course, especially w better isolation feet - i use an Italian MAG Lev on the single arm TT. The bespoke dual Arm DP has a constrained layer plinth and a full on HRS isolation system. Lew is correct about chips, etc. Ive had both of my motor / platter units gone thru by Peter of PbN audio. The Denon is a very unique split platter w internal springs and damping, the latter normally requires replacement. Peter is imo a sen master at this. As a reference, i have a Brinkman bardo in another system… i won’t say the DP-75 is the equal… but for $$$ imo the 75 / 80 can be insane value… |
OP My system and speakers are very revealing, but I don’t hear differences between each different TT or Tonearm once setup properly. At 76 years old, I can still hear differences in cartridges, thus the TT/Tonearm is out of the way enough, doing things right, that’s all I want. Ease of tonearm/cartridge change/setup is important. Perfect speed, immediately and forever please. Accept and hold adjustments please. My choices, including QLDD for TT, are based on solving/avoiding problems, sensible science, features, for myself and others. Like others here, that path has been partially steered by gifts and inheritance, as well as luck, great buys, friends and random acquaintances, and my ’hands-on mr. fixit’ personality. I am a retired Interior Designer, I specialized in Corporate Office Space, so appearance is important. I have experience hearing speed variations. Both my prior Thorens TD124 Idler Wheel and current Mitsubishi LT-5V Belt Drive TT in my office require adjustments to speed: let them warm up, adjust, play, check every once and a while, the room temperature might affect the speed. QLDD, on/play all day and night/off. Sensible science: I believe in the science of a longer arm, which is why I was drawn to my Blackbird which is 12.5" effective, however I would not say I hear a difference, I would prefer it had the features of the Mitsubishi 505L, in fact I may buy one, my right side arm-board can be rotated 180 degrees, I can resurrect the 270mm hole in it (from a Victor 7082 arm, that has a 45 adapter in in now). Both arms are 270/282mm 11-1/8" effective. I have a second AT160ml on the way here, after I compare it to the one I just got one will go in the 12.5" long arm, other in the 9" acos lustre, and I'll get some younger ears over here.
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