@jonandfamily have you tried the 3.6 replacement tweeter? If you did do you have the measurements with the OEM tweeter vs the replacement soft-dome?
bill10907 You might check out my setup in my primary “Virtual System”. After having high powered Krell, Bryston, McIntosh etc with my 3.6s, I’ve been very happy with Audio Research tubes on amp and preamp.
I started with VSi60 integrated amp with KT 120s, then Ref 110, Ref 75, Ref 150 and now Ref 250 mono amps. Each amp had classic ARC sound with huge soundstage (tall, wide and deep), separation with precise imaging and I think you’d be surprised at how well the VSi60 Watt integrated amp drives the big Thiels in spite of most recommending high powered solid state amps. |
bill10907 Nice "old" system. The good news is that Thiel speakers does respond well to Tubed gear (CJ, P.S. Audio, VAC and VTL) just to name a few. I am a big fan of the CJ CAV 45 control amp. I would like to see the S3 version with more current and power output. Great opportunity there. Let's see how CJ approaches the next version. Classe' is certainly a sonic match. Now, to address your Wattage query. Anywhere from 50 to 300 watts will be sufficient. Much will depend on your room and volume preference. Keep me posted as you demo the Amps.
Happy Listening! |
Jafant, Nothing! Just my pair of 3.6. I want to get an integrated tube amp, Cardas Clear or Cardas Clear Beyond for cables, and something to stream with. Budget is 10-12 grand CAN. I don't buy new. Future will be CS6s, but not now. Used to have clear beyond cables, Classe 400 watts, ARC PH8 phono, ARC REF 3 pre, Clearaudio Performance SE table, and a Stradivari cartridge. Looking to build a new system anchored with tube amp. After using the CJ 60se in my 1.6 house system, I think the Classe "voiced" the speakers, not the tubes feeding the amp feeding the 3.6. Love CJ, but will 45 tube watts be enough? How about 75? Will I need 200 tube watts? That is my first question: wattage? |
Hi, I used to have a pretty great analog system driving a pair of 3.6s. I was powering them with 300 watts SS. I had to get rid of that system, except the speakers of course. In the meantime I was listening to a pair of 1.6 driven by a Conrad Johnson Classic 60se, a tube amp. It was a glorious match. I know the philosophy was tube preamp and SS amp, but I now believe it is the amp, the last thing in the chain, that "voices" the speaker. l have read that tube watts are entirely different than SS watts, but I thought I'd ask the gurus to weigh in. How many tube watts do I need to drive 3.6, and later 6s, to very loud levels. Garage is 20 x 20 ft with 8-foot ceilings. |
Ironically, that’s a question. I sought to answer myself, but I’m not sure I ever truly answered.
When I had both the 3.7 and 2.7 at the same time, I found it they were very close in terms of the sense of bass depth. Although I could tell that 3.7 went a tiny bit lower, and had a slightly bigger sense of overall scale.
After I sold the 3.7 s, I was generally fine with the frequency range of the 2.7, but I finally did try and integrate a couple of subwoofers. I had two JL Audio 110E subs, a terrific CR1 crossover, and a Dspeaker Anti mode for room correction in the bass.
The difference was actually pretty subtle subjectively in terms of extending the bass and what it added to the sound. I would say, yeah, it added, perhaps a bit more scale and dimensionality. But I don’t really I didn’t like this slight change the characteristics that the subwoofers brought to the overall sound. Plus I found at least my room 2.7 sounded more punchy without the subwoofers. So I sold them.
Ultimately, if you upgrade to the 3.7s what I think you’ll get is a little more reach in the bottom, but not a lot. But also some greater scale to the sound in terms of imaging and sound staging, and slightly more refinement overall to the sound. The bass is a bit more linear, The mid range and highs a bit more suave and refined, and the 3.7 speakers disappear a little bit better.
I hope that’s helpful. |
cawgijoe, I installed PowerPlene 1.2 speakers in a conventional 2x4 wall cavity (studs 16" o.c.) without problem, though my sheetrock was 5/8" thick, not 1/2". Long dimension of the speakers are parallel to the studs. I don't think the additional 1/8" is a big deal but YMMV. They've been installed since 2016 without problem. Good luck! |
cawgijoe Good to see you here again. Stay tuned until one of our Power plane experts chimes in to address your query. We have a few fans/owners of the PP on The Panel. What other gear are you planning for your retirement home? Feel free to post and save pics for a Virtual Systems page. That would be very educational. Happy Listening! |
Hey all, I’m in the process of building a new retirement home and have two Thiel Powerplane 1.2 in wall speakers that I want to install to use in a two channel system. I read the Thiel owners/instruction manual which states that you don’t just want to mount them to drywall alone due to vibration possibility. I contacted Rob Gillum and purchased two metal support templates that fit between 16” center wall studs. Looks like a good solution for support and so that the drywall people can cut the correct hole. |
@tomthiel Would you happen to have the specs to the Integrator and room compensation components on the SmartSubs? |
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I usually use symphony orchestra music Beethoven's symphonies or Dvorak's "New World " 9th symphony by the Chicago Symphony with Fritz Reiner conducting. I will also use David Crosby's first album to listen to the chiming guitar sounds and how they linger and fade away . If one feels that your Thiel's are to bright then the adding of a .01uf cap on the tweeter solves the problem , the violins now reach the highest levels without sounding bright or brittle , the hall sounds larger than ever , and this was done after installing Mills resistors and Clarity Purity 15uf caps on both the tweeter and mid crossovers . |
I agree with you about the grills off and I too wish the woofers were black , I'm not sure if an aluminum baffle frame would be an improvement but since the woofer and the baffle are the same as the 2.4 ( of which many more were built ) maybe someday the dream will come true . A while back I had tried adding resistors in series with the coaxial speakers , they didn't sound good . Tom suggested tring a bypass capacitor on the 1uf bypass capacitors on the tweeter and the mid speakers , I found a pair of .01uf Cardas capacitors and installed them on the tweeter I can highly recommend this "upgrade" . I only did the tweeter because I think these were the last 2 capacitors for sale since Cardas stopped making their golden ratio caps a while back (bummer) . |
Here’s one of my dream tweaks for my 2.7s replace the front baffle, Which I think is MDF, With a thicker constrained layer damped aluminum Baffle. Also, I’d like to hear my Thiels with the grills off, However I am allergic to the look of drivers in general, And as neato as the Thiel drivers are, I’d find them very distracting. So in my dreams, Rob Gillum comes up with a way To make the drivers black - Some sort of spray coating? So that The drivers blend in with the baffle. |
Thanks for the tip. I researched High Performance Stereo in FL around the time they started advertising these two pairs. The online feedback was not particularly confidence-inspiring: it painted a picture of a business where a knowledgeable audiophile would be comfortable doing business in person, but online buyers reported horror stories that sadly sounded all too credible. PayPal protects online purchases to some extent, but may require goods to be shipped to a third party after settlement, at buyer's expense. That would be an issue :) I live in the Pacific Northwest btw.
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