Supratek Owners Thread

@tksteingraber @noromance thanks very much!

@tholt ,.. The gain reduction is mainly for matching the pre to very sensitive amps,..(ie, solidstate) where there would not be much play in the VC.  It is best left un-engaged if it is not needed but is pretty transparent when in use.    With most modern source outputs being in the 1.5 - 4v range,  the main VC really shouldn't ever need to be raised above the 12'oclock position.   Much beyond that you could start to overload the input with such a high source V.   The pre is a VERY high gain device and easily accept very low v. sources (ie,. iPhone,  etc..)..  I find the best volume knob range to be around 9-10'oclock for standard ~2v source components..    if this is range is too loud in the room,..   use the gain reduction to set a goo volume,  then leave it at that position and go back to main VC as standard adjustment. 

  From a tube standpoint,  you won't really find any useful gain reduction with the tubes the pre will accept.   The 6L6's are circuit voltage regulators only and do not affect gain,.. they just provide a rock steady voltage for everything else to run on.

Hope this helps,   Best,

@jslateiv thanks. I accidentally deleted my post. I went to edit it and somehow confirmed delete. My bad for having a nightcap while I surf apparently lol. Regardless, your post is helpful. I'll continue to play with the gain knob. Also good to know about the tubes.

I have a Cabernet DHT /6SN7 that Mick made in 2021. I love it. Recently, one of the 6L6 regulator tubes went bad, leaving me one non matching 6L6 as backup. How much difference does the quality of the regulator tubes make? What are your favorites. For reference,  I have rolled many of the other tubes. My favorite rectifier has been the Bendix 6106. Recently, I've been enjoying the Sophia 274B. For DHT, I've settled on 45's, specifically the National Unions. I have Psvanes that were shipped in the 6SN7  slots. In my setup, the 6SN7's are not used. Before, they had provided the the signal for the subwoofer amp. Now, the 45's provide the signal to all amps.

@tubes4good 

My Cabernet from the same time frame shipped with Tung Sol's but I have also used JJ's and hear no difference between them or with the NOS Russian ones that shipped with my Chardonnay in 2019.  So my advice is just pick one of the new production brands and go with it.  

jackd Thanks

Anyone try the Revelation Audio power cord? I got the unbiblical unbiblical for a nice improvement. Wonder what the power cord, in tandem may bring. I already have an aftermarket power cord from a local artisan that is nice with my Cabernet. 

I've read a few people liking the Bendix 6106 rectifier for their Cabernet power supply. Does this tube also work in the Chardonnay PSU? I would assume so but... don't want to assume! Thx

The V. reg circuit is the same for all Supra's so yes,  the 6106 will work.   The circuit uses the tube to makes sure the voltage proceeding it is always steady, ie. the same set voltage.   The tubes are self-regulating for bias current so no need to for matched tubes.  some people hear a diff. in tube varieties some don't.  I personally hear little dif. if any.  Just make sure to stick with 6L6, KT66 type/family of tubes.

I'm looking at a DAC with srrp tube output stage. It needs a 50k or higher input impedance. Anyone know the RCA input impedance of my year old Supratek Chardonnay? 

Thanks,

aldnorab

Will be around 75K input.

Appreciate the info @jslateiv .  The Chardonnay is the best sounding linestage I've owned. 

Thanks,

aldnorab 

Hey Supratek owners -

Quick question - what rectifiers and regulator tubes are you using? Anybody out there rolling these? and, if so, what are your opinions about the best sound?

I'm running a Mazda GZ32 as a rectifier and the standard 6N3C regulator tubes. I've always been curious about whether and how much different it would make to swap these out for, say, a 274B and a pair of 6L6, KT66 or 5881s.

 Not sure how much I can contribute since I own and rolled tubes in a Cabernet not a Cortese.  All tubes make a difference.  My preferred rectifier is a ‘58 RCA 5R4GY brown base ST shape.  Another bargain is a Sylvania 5U4GB USN Tall straight bottle with D Getter.  I preferred both over highly recommended and pricey Philips 5R4GYS and Mullard GZ34.  Your Mazda is most likely going to be hard to beat.  A llot of people rave about the Sophia 274b Aqua II.  It’s more than I want to spend and some have had failure issues. For your regulator tubes I would definitely upgrade from those stock Russian tubes. I like ‘60’s RCA  6L6GB blackplates  and 807’s with adapters.  These were a nice improvement over the stock Russian tubes.

I joined the Supratek owner’s club recently with a new-to-me Chardonnay.  Very happy with it.  It’s been a better than expected improvement to the music over my Schiit Freya+.  What amps are people using with their Supratek?  

@nymarty I’m in tube heaven with my Decware Torii Jr. I finally received in January. It was a 2 year  build wait.  I think it’s 4 year wait now 🤯.  In the interim I bought an LSA  Warp 1 but sold it once my Decware amp arrived.   It’s a fantastic Class D amp at a great price. It did everything well including bass.  Just have to follow my audio component rule “If I buy one I have to sell one” 

@nymarty pairing my Supratek Sig Grange with Coda S5.5

MARVELLOUS combo! 

@tksteingraber Nice Decware!  My speakers (Devore Fidelity Nines) can run on 20 watts but they seem to come alive with more power.  I'm using the Chardonnay now with 3 different amps -- Schiit Aegir (two running balanced as monoblocks), a Line Magnetic LM-34ia as power amp, and an old McCormack DNA-1.  All have their unique sound qualities but using balanced outputs from the Chardonnay to the Aegirs is by far the quietest pairing -- in that there's no noise at all coming from the speakers when not playing anything.  With any of the other amps running RCA cables, I get a little bit of noise.  Granted, you have to be right up to the speaker to hear the noise but it's there.  Adjusting gain doesn't seem to affect it at all. The music coming out of the amps with RCA connections is still great, though.  I'm curious about your time with the LSA Warp. I'm inclined to pair the Chardonnay with a solid state amp using balanced connectors.  

@sim_audio_nerd  Thanks!   That must be a really nice combo.  What speakers are you using?  And are you running balanced connectors between the Grange and Coda and have you compared that to RCA connectors?

Looking at this thread again, I noticed that I never posted a update on my Cabernet problems, the man to the rescue was @jslateiv 

He helped me find the problem by the pictures I had sent him, it seams two solder joints were not soldered at all, and because the wires used are very stiff it was not easy to spot, I had never soldered before, but with good help from jslativ, I was able to get it done, so now my gain control knob works perfectly.

So all is good, being able to adjust the gain has improved the sound somewhat as my power amp has a lot of input gain.

Just upgraded my Chardonnay with a new remote control. Nice heavy aluminum and just the 2 buttons I need. The remote Mick supplies is fine but this just has a nicer feel and no unnecessary buttons. Easy to program. Sounds better too. ;-)

@nymarty would you able to let us know where and how you got the after market remote?

Love my Grange Signature but wish the remote supplied by Mick was a tad bit better...

My remote from Mick never worked: I noticed that the IR photocell under the Grange is quite loose and flimsy. Mick's not very helpful here. Any idea how to fix this annoyance?

@sim_audio_nerd i bought it on Ali Express.  You’ll need your original remote to teach it but it’s very easy to do.  
Aluminum alloy material infrared signal learning remote control, 2-button, simple style, high-end audiophile
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMYD2m8

@nymarty thanks!

@reimarc ,  I would guess 1 of 4 things.

1. the remote does not work

2. the 'photocell' cable is not connected to the VC board

3. the VC motor is not getting power

4. The Vol. knob shifted in transit and is rubbing/binding against the side of the wood chassis.

These are all pretty easy to check,..  with the pre 'on', place your ear up close to the unit and use the remote,  can you hear the motor trying to turn,..  very easy to hear,  if you do the knob is bound, an allen key, wrench and some patience can fix this pretty easily.  If you hear no motor noise when using the remote, then you'll need to open the unit and dbl check the photo cell ribbon cable and that it is connected.  if it is,  then dbl check the 2 wires that run to the VC board.  They most likely connect to a molex screwdown type of header/connector..  The VC is generally powered from a branch off of the idht heater circuit, taken from before the regulator IC..  you can somewhat safely check it is getting power by REMOVING the Rectifier (center tube in PS),  powering up and testing the VC board for voltage ~9vdc at those screw terminals..   Hope this helps!  DM me if you have any further questions.  Happy to help

@jslateiv Do you know what could be causing audible noise coming through the left speaker when adjusting volume?  The noise stops as soon as I stop turning the volume knob —which I usually adjust via remote.  Thanks!

@nymarty  first guess would be a pot getting dirty/bad rub on the wiper for whatever reason.  For these pots, only solution is replacement as they are sealed. 

@jslateiv Thanks.  I only get the noise when using the remote, which is odd.

@nymarty   gotcha,..  then in that case, if there is no noise when turning the vol. knob manually,..  I think what you are hearing is the motor/circuit noise creeping into the audio circuit when the motor is engaged,.. 

Mine does the same, scratching sound when using the remote, totally quiet when moving it manually.

@jslateiv  Thanks!   The noise makes me wonder if a better motorized pot would be an overall sonic improvement but not sure what to even change it to or how.  That little bit of noise is a worthwhile tradeoff for how good the preamp is. 

@gryphongryph Thanks!  Good to know it's the same on your preamp too.

In completely separate news, a 6SN7 died in the Chardonnay last night.  I was listening to music, heard a loud unpleasant sound from my right speaker and then the speaker went silent.  Swapped around amps and speakers just to troubleshoot that they were working fine and then started swapping tubes.  Visually, the tube looked fine, maybe a little dimmer than the other, but it was pretty dead sonically.  Had a nasty ozone-like smell to it.  Luckily, had a backup pair of tubes.   Have never experienced that before and it definitely surprised me.  

Any new production 6SN7 that anyone would recommend?   I'm running Sylvania GTB now and would like to try a new tube vs a potentially old "NOS."

@nymarty you can try loosening up the volume control and recentering it in the mounting hole. Other options are a DACT or Kozmo but I don't think you have room for mounting internally of you want remote volume.These volume controls are bigger than the original Alps which your pre amp came with.

Nice to see the thread come alive again.  
The remote volume pot has been scratchy from day one for my new 2023 Cabernet.  If I move it quickly up and down a few times by hand it stops making the noise using the remote until the next time it gets turned off then on.  Doesn’t seem to be an issue for me unless it starts progressing.

I have had a handful of NOS tubes become very noisy and/or then go dead.  Common in my tube experience.  I have not found a new 6SN7 that can match the good NOS tubes.  Some like the Elite Linlai E-6SN7.  I tried a pair and did not care for them.  Very detailed and too solid state sounding and just didn’t pull me into the music.   I prefer the warm full encompassing sound.  A few fav’s are Raytheon ‘50’s 6F8G flat plates, Melz ‘50’s 6SN8, Sylvania ‘50’s 6SN7 GTA military shorty, heavy chrome down side with T-plates.

@nymarty   The motor in those is noisy from an emi standpoint and generates some hash in the circuit when it is engage.  Once the vol. is set though,  the motor is not doing anything so not generating the noise,..  you could probably find a different control that is quieter when driven but I doubt there would be a big increase in SQ from the different pot,  just less noise when ramping the vol. up/down.   The Kozmo's are nice but wont fit.  For what it's worth,  every Supra I've had on the bench exhibits the same noise when the motor is engaged.  Just the nature of that particular control.

@evank  Thanks!  System is looking good.  Did you move?  Are you going to CAF?

@tksteingraber  Thanks!  The noise isn’t much of an issue and only happens with remote, so will just ignore it.

@jslateiv Thanks!  I’m going to DM you about something else when I have more time. Really appreciate all the help.

@nymarty moved 3 months ago to Tarrytown. Also my Aric pre makes a boop boop sound when I use my remote. Its a Kosmo.

My understanding was that the noise when using the remote was because the it’s a high gain pre!

@gryphongryph   Yes,  very high gain pre,  coupled with unshielded/open motor next to circuit = motor noise coupling to audio circuit..  You would still hear some noise even with a lower gain circuit. less though.

The remote noise is very minor compared to an LTA Z40+ integrated I owned for 6 months.. Every time you remotely adjusted the step volume control a loud click would occur. Made it unbearable to adjust volume mid song. Deal breaker for me.