REL subs with Acoustat 1+1s?

REL subs use a high level connection at your amp and take the signal off the amp terminal. That is then adjusted at the sub with the x-over on the sub amp controls. You do have the option of using a lo level signal, but the preferred method is the high level, and this is what REL are known for. I believe it is an excellent solution. REL come with hook up cables that allow you to connect to the sub and the amp. With your 1+1’s, you should be able to get a nice blend. Probably be a good match up, so long as you pick a REL that is appropriate for your room size.

musicfan2349
subs with Acoustat 1+1s?

Over the years I had the 1+1’s and the 2+2’s and (ML Monolith, with active bottom end), don’t take the sub/s up too far in FR as they can’t match the ESL’s speed anything above 100hz.

And passively roll off the ESL’s with 2nd order high pass, at around 120hz-150hz, like this sort of thing with air core would be better, but won't be practical.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/100-Hz-High-Pass-8-Ohm-Crossover/321572212107?hash=item4adf328d8b:g:S1cA...
(if you use active on the ESL’s say goodbye to the natural sound you’ve been used to.)

If your looking for "low tight bass" to match it with the esl’s speed, get a quality "motional feedback controlled sub/s" that’s 10"-12" with active xover set at around 70-90hz and use line level to drive them.

And spend time getting your phasing distances right and don’t have the subs volume up too loud, so you don’t hear them all the time.

Cheers George

I am a REL owner and for your application I would look into a JL Audio e110 or e112

Run the 1+1's full range, use a splitter from your source to the amp and powered sub, fill in the lowest range with the sub's controls.
Simple, effective. I'm running the same setup with model 1's.

Lot of folk have not heard the new REL subs. The new models are able to keep up with almost all speakers, including stats. The smaller models are IME even better than the larger models, but all will work well with 1+1's. Using the high level connection is as I stated before, preferable. As George stated above, keeping the volume level down to make the blend invisible is ideal...although getting the blend if you acquire two subs is exponentially more complex and time consuming. 

The Rel will not limit the signal to the mains. Just the sub. You would need an external active crossover like the JL CR-1.
I would get a pair of JL audio E112. They have built in crossovers. You send the preamp out to the sub. Then the sub out to your amp. Then just adjust the crossover as needed in a true high pass setup. This works very well.
I would not use subs without a high pass crossover. It will alway be poor.

I hear zero loss of sound quality (grain detail) running through the subs but my system modest, in crazy land anyway.

 @james633   Please explain this..the REL will not limit the signal to the mains. Just the sub???? What are you talking about?
 If you buy a REL, it comes with the ability to adjust the x-over point.

Hi @daveyf 

What James633 is saying is that a REL does not have a high pass filter, it is only equipped with a low pass filter, where as the OP's current sub has both.

@audiorusty Thanks, that makes sense. I am not sure why you would want to route the signal through the sub x-over and then to the mains vs. off the amp terminals to the sub, and thereby not impacting the main speaker signal...to the Acoustat 1+1’s. This would be preferred, which is what the REL manual suggests.

The 1+1 go down to around 30-40hz -3db, to get the best dynamic swing and kick out of them you should limit them to >120Hz.  Use cheap ready made passive high pass xover to do it with as I showed in my first post.
This will get them loud without straining them and making them limit trying to do low bass. With the sub/s below that <120hz.

Cheers George

@daveyf 

I apologize, my vocabulary is failing me more than usual today. As with pretty much everything, personal preference is the determining factor but generally most people find that when integrating a sub into a system, the system sounds, for lack of better words here, cleaner, clearer and more detailed when using both high and low pass filters. You should also be able to, as Georgehifi states, run the system louder if you so desire.

REL has a somewhat unique stance, they believe ( as do I) that taking the signal off the amp terminals and not off the preamp allows the subwoofer to see exactly the same signal as the main speakers. This is where I think their subs are able to sound better. Issues can occur with hooking up the sub in this manner, all of which are mentioned in the manual, but if possible, that is the preferred manner.

High pass filter. That's the term I was looking for! Yes the RHL sub does have that as it is fed from the amp then the panels are fed from the sub after the lower frequencies are filtered out. What's nice about that arrangement is that the ESLs are left to do the elegant work while the sub handles the heavy stuff. It actually works quite well. The problem, for me  anyway, is that the REL approach eliminates one of the features that I'm looking for which is taking advantage of a self-powered sub but they send the full spectrum on to the panels.
I don't know. I guess I'll have to do some more research. I DO appreciate the suggestions and will use those as a starting point. Thanks much!Happy listening.

What's nice about that arrangement is that the ESLs are left to do the elegant work while the sub handles the heavy stuff. It actually works quite well.

Hi musicfan2349, that is why I mentioned the JL Audio "e" series earlier in the thread. The "e" series is a powered sub with both a low and high pass filter so the set-up would be the same as you currently have. JL Audio is the only sub manufacturer that I am aware of the offers this option.

Another option, if your ARC has preamp out and in connections, would be to purchase an external crossover like a Minidsp, DBX, Bryston, JL Audio CR-1 or XTA DP series, to name a few. All of these units will have both the low and high pass filters and in some cases, room correction tools, then you could use any sub you desire.

@audiorustyYep! They're on the list! The potential bonus is that as my current RHL is 10" and seems to move plenty of air, I may only NEED one.

Thanks again!Happy listening