I have a pair of 805 D3’s with the original stands. I’ve used blu tack in in half dozen places per speaker and it’s worked well for me.
Question for those that bolt their speakers to stands
I’m awaiting a new pair of KEF R3 speakers and since they have the mounting holes for bolting to the top plate of a stand I plan on using them that way. Up to this point I’ve typically utilized small sorbothane pads between the speakers and top plates. The tackiness helps to secure the speaker very well and it does a decent job decoupling the speaker along with protecting the bottom surface of the cabinet from scratches.
Considering the fact that I definitely want to protect the bottom of the R3 speakers while also bolting them down snugly, I’ve thought about using the sorbothane pads that I have already and sandwiching them between the speaker and top plate. The pads I use now are not designed to support a speaker as heavy as the R3 but this shouldn’t matter since any pads will probably be compressed beyond their ideal range since I’m bolting the R3s to the stands. So in this case the pads will simply be for protecting the cabinet finish (along with very limited decoupling), and then I can use something like the Herbie’s Threaded Stud Gliders on the bottom of the stands for true decoupling.
Does anyone have any thoughts on this or alternative suggestions based on their own similar experiences? I appreciate the input.
Considering the fact that I definitely want to protect the bottom of the R3 speakers while also bolting them down snugly, I’ve thought about using the sorbothane pads that I have already and sandwiching them between the speaker and top plate. The pads I use now are not designed to support a speaker as heavy as the R3 but this shouldn’t matter since any pads will probably be compressed beyond their ideal range since I’m bolting the R3s to the stands. So in this case the pads will simply be for protecting the cabinet finish (along with very limited decoupling), and then I can use something like the Herbie’s Threaded Stud Gliders on the bottom of the stands for true decoupling.
Does anyone have any thoughts on this or alternative suggestions based on their own similar experiences? I appreciate the input.
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Glad to hear you are intent on doing the primary decoupling at the base of the speaker stands since you need to bolt on. I'd consider a thick soft towel, undercut to not show. I wouldn't use anything at all that might leave any type of residue or mark, I doubt a cotton towel would. With a thickness or two of towel, you can crank the bolt down a bit and still have some decoupling via the compressed towel, as opposed to pretty much zero decoupling with a piece of paper, e.g. Still, if you can, test all of the items just to see if there is an audible effect. (I've been stuck bolting inexpensive monitors as well in prior years due to cats... "No-they are not cat-stands!")
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@indyvw have you found any stands that actually allow you to bolt the R3s down? I've struggled to find any. |
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You may want to try a variety of materials under the speakers before attaching the bolts.A thin piece of cork + felt?A piece of that rubbery shelf liner + felt?Rubber washers,mouse pads?I agree with lowrider about avoiding sorbothane.I've tried it before with standmounts and it always sounds 'off' to me.But it never hurts to try:-) |
I appreciate the suggestion lowrider57. My only concern is that I won’t be using the Herbie’s Dots the same way you do or the same way they are designed to work for that matter because whatever I opt for will be much more compressed between the speaker and stand given the speakers will be bolted down. So it seems dubious that any of the decoupling devices will work optimally in this situation. Most of what I’m going for will be protection of the speaker rather than providing any audible improvement. I mean if I could get both at the same time then great but I just don’t see that being very likely. That’s why I’m kind of leaning towards just doing a piece of fabric instead of the pads. Then doing some of the Herbie’s gliders for the stand feet to get some proper decoupling. |
https://herbiesaudiolab.com/products/extra-thick-grungebuster-dots?variant=12659614908471 I use these between maple platform and shelf. Sorbethane is too soft and can muddy the sound under a speaker. 1/8" thick, they have thinner dots. |
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I appreciate the Fat Dot recommendation. Just to restate one of the main points here, I anticipate any of the pads I use between the speakers and stands will most likely not work at optimum capability because of the fact that I’ll be bolting the speakers to the stands and therefore compressing the pads significantly more than would normally be recommended for the preferred free standing, un-mounted application. Also, there will still be a mechanical link between speaker and stand via the bolts and they won’t ever be truly decoupled in this manner. Given the cost of the Herbie’s Fat Dots ($80-$100 for 8pcs), I think I would prefer to spend the money on something they offer that may be more beneficial due to the fact that I can use it properly, such as the threaded gliders. Does this thought process make sense to others? |
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